Excellent, under the radar 2016 Bordeaux

Vince_T · May 18, 2020, 1:26am

Have been trying out a number of 2016 Bordeaux. So far, Durfort-Vivens, an estate we don’t seem to hear much about, has come out as my favorite.

2016 Château Durfort-Vivens - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (5/17/2020)
Picked up a couple of these based on the strength of Keith Levenberg’s review from last Oct. This is stellar, under the radar, classic Margaux - will have to pick up several more. A real Bordeaux bargain at $60.

PnP. Starts with a very inviting nose, very Margaux, with seductive violets and crème de cassis. The smell wafts from the glass halfway across the room.

Follows on the palate with candied violets, ripe tart red fruits, crab apples, sandalwood, incense. It’s notable for its superb balance; it has finesse and freshness in spades. Ample acid, fine grained, chalky tannins, and lighter bodied than many 2016s (13.5% alc, 40% new oak). Long finish with a cleansing charcoal element and curiously, a banana ester component, that shows up more on the nose the next day. Only detractor on day 1 is the acid is a bit unintegrated and it needs a bit of time to come together.

Day 2, this has gotten even better. Acid is more tightly welded to the fruit and structure, a more layered mid-palate has emerged, with cedar, forest undergrowth, and warm soil. Structure is still present but very approachable, compared to the 2016 Gloria. Not sure this will go through a closed period - the tannins are so fine. At this point I prefer this to the highly vaunted Calon-Segur, although that may be the better wine in 2040. Thomas Jefferson ranked this Chateau his 4th favorite after Lafite, Latour, and Margaux in his travel diaries*, and while it may not have climbed that far yet, it’s certainly seems worthy of its 2eme Cru status.

credit to: Jeff Leve, winecellarinsider.com (95 pts.)

Posted from CellarTracker

Robert.A.Jr · May 18, 2020, 1:47am

And yet a Second Growth!

Killer note, thanks for the sneak peak. Need to get me some.

I had to google banana “ester”. Can’t say I’ve encountered that in a Bordeaux but I do like bananas . . . in Beaujolais. I kid. Keith’s note is enticing.

Julian_Marshall · May 18, 2020, 10:10am

Thanks for the tip, Vince, glad you liked it - sounds excellent. Durfort is an interesting case which has mostly attracted the ire of critics over the years, especially RMP, because Gonzague Lurton appeared surprisingly unwilling to follow the herd into the dark side. He and his wife, Claire Villars-Lurton (H-B Libéral and Ferrière), were among the first to go organic, starting in 2009 and have been bio-dynamic since, I believe, 2012. New oak is limited to 40 to 50% and the wines are made in a classical, subtle style which used to be deemed old-fashioned. Where the critics were right, however, is that the wines were a bit hit or miss, but when they were good, they were very good indeed. I’ve had some splendid 99, 00 and 01 and enjoyed an 08 a couple of weeks ago. In recent years, critics have suddenly decided they like it after all, probably something to do with a certain someone’s retirement! I prefer the style of Ferrière, but Durfort is very underrated and I buy it on a regular basis.

Basically, if you like Lascombes, look elsewhere, but if you like BAMA or Clos du Jaugueyron, it’s not a bad idea to try a Durfort.

Howard_Cooper · May 18, 2020, 10:57am

Thanks for the tip, Vince, glad you liked it - sounds excellent. Durfort is an interesting case which has mostly attracted the ire of critics over the years, especially RMP, because Gonzague Lurton appeared surprisingly unwilling to follow the herd into the dark side. He and his wife, Claire Villars-Lurton (H-B Libéral and Ferrière), were among the first to go organic, starting in 2009 and have been bio-dynamic since, I believe, 2012. New oak is limited to 40 to 50% and the wines are made in a classical, subtle style which used to be deemed old-fashioned. Where the critics were right, however, is that the wines were a bit hit or miss, but when they were good, they were very good indeed. I’ve had some splendid 99, 00 and 01 and enjoyed an 08 a couple of weeks ago. In recent years, critics have suddenly decided they like it after all, probably something to do with a certain someone’s retirement! I prefer the style of Ferrière, but Durfort is very underrated and I buy it on a regular basis.

Basically, if you like Lascombes, look elsewhere, but if you like BAMA or Clos du Jaugueyron, it’s not a bad idea to try a Durfort.

I was in Bordeaux in 2014 and visited Ferrière when I was there. Thought the wines there were very good and bought some 2005s at the winery. Nice wine. Knew that Haut Bages Liberal had the same owner (we tasted a couple of these wines while at Ferrière) but did not realize that Durfort was also owned by the same people. Thanks.

Robert.A.Jr · May 18, 2020, 11:54am

Ferriere is lovely indeed.

Vince_T · May 18, 2020, 12:03pm

Yeah, I’ve come across it a few times in whites, but never in a Bordeaux red. If it were more pervasive, it’d be bad, but it was just enough of a whiff to make you wonder if someone has brought a banana cream pie into the room.