Volúpia 2019 (Bairrada). Maria Gomes (i.e. Fernão Pires) Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc. 14.5%
This is a best selling, entry level white from Caves de São Domingos - made in a deliberately commercial, accessible, some would say ‘feminine’ style.
Very pale, greenish yellow. The nose hits at you mercilessly with an invasive exuberance of white flowers, ripe honeymelon and limoncello-like sweet cytrus, bordering on Chanel no. 5 in its alcoholic intensity, with an unctuous mouth and appropriate acidity, which, however, leaves untouched its intense alcoholic profile. Wine made to impress rather than seduce, and potentially dangerous in the hands of whoever grabs it off the counter at 6€ after a tougher day than usual. I can think of better bargains for my taste, but it’s not an incorrect wine.
São Domingos Garrafeira 2011 (Bairrada). 50% Touriga Nacional, 25% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon. 14,5%
Medium dense ruby. This is a ponderous, serious wine. The nose is highly complex yet never dizzying, with intense, stewed black fruit, liquorice, broad beans, chickpea, old furniture, varnish, turmeric powder, blood sausage, and a hint of honey in the afterglow. Medium tannin and acidity, well structured mouth. Enveloping, layered wine, which nevertheless lacks a certain elegance for my taste. Will retaste… 25€ upon release.
Quinta das Chaquedas, Lote 5 Grande Reserva 2017 (Douro). Blend of old vines. 14,5%
This was one of the greatest Douro vintages in recent memory, so it was nearly impossible to make a substandard wine. Not only that, but the Chaquedas vines benefit from privileged geography - right next to Quinta do Vale Dona Maria, one of the bigger Douro players. They also benefit from the wonderful work of oneologist Jorge Alves, who collaborates with Quinta Nova and whose Quinta do Tedo project I should be visiting next month. Needless to say, this was a bottle with a promise of quality.
Dense ruby, with a generous nose of fresh berries, currants, roses, blue flowers, finishing on cedar, eucalyptus and black pepper notes. The mouth is very full, enveloping, simultaneously unctuous and packed with nervous, youthful tannins. Broad, pronounced retronasal. This wine lacks the full aroma of Douro terroir - the smell of its peculiar earth, castigated by the sun, and its wild flora - which I love so much, yet it is nevertheless a wonderful flagbearer of a wonderful vintage, with a long life ahead. 35€ upon release - generously priced given the limited edition (around 2000 bottles).