Up until this point my experience of Xinomavro - that dark and bitter pearl of Greek wines - is that it is the Greek equivalent of Barolo and Barbaresco: pale in color, high in acidity and high in tannins - often with a very similar taste to Nebbiolo as well.
Well, since my friend arranged a Xinomavro tasting last week, I know better now. Xinomavro can be made into that stern and very Nebbiolo-like wine that can take decades of aging, but there are lots of wineries making wines in a multitude of styles. For example I never thought a red Xinomavro could be made into a light-bodied, delicate and thoroughly Burgundian wine, until I tasted one.
In this tasting most of the wines came from Naoussa - the corner in the north Greece known for their assertive Xinomavro wines - but we had some less-known and even obscure wine regions (Larissa and Goumenissa) represented as well.
And that odd Nebbiolo? Well, the first three wines were served blind just to hide the fact that one of them was actually a Nebbiolo. And not an Italian wine, but one from Peloponnisos. I actually managed to guess the variety correctly when my friend asked the attendees whether all the wines were actually made from Xinomavro.
Here is the lineup:
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2016 Oenops wines Xinomavro - Greece, Macedonia, Naoussa (20.5.2020)
An organic Xinomavro from Naoussa. Mostly destemmed fruit with 5-8% as whole bunches. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in tulip-shaped concrete tanks of 3100 liters and 500-liter open-top oak barrels. Aged for 10 months on the lees in amphorae. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Youthful, quite dark and gently translucent black cherry color with a clear, pink rim. Dark-toned, concentrated and quite heady nose of crème de cassis and ripe blackcurrants, followed by aromas of boysenberries, some licorice, light dusty tones and a sweet hint of cherry marmalade. The wine is dry, crunchy and medium-bodied on the palate with rather pronounced amaro bitterness and bright flavors of redcurrants, some sour cherries, a little bit of licorice root, light leafy tones and a hint of earthy spice. The structure relies mostly on the very high acidity, as the tannins - normally so assertive for Xinomavro - feel remarkably soft, gentle and easy. The finish is dry, crunchy and acid-driven with rather pronounced bitterness and persistent flavors of sour cherries, some redcurrants, a little bit of licorice, light notes of cassis and a hint of brambly raspberry. The tannins feel very easy, barely lending any grip to the aftertaste.
Very enjoyably crunchy, fresh and easy-going Xinomavro that lacks the assertive, grippy tannins that are so typical of this variety. The rather pronounced bitterness keeps the ripe fruit flavors nicely in check, but it might get a little bit in the way if the wine is to be drunk as a food wine - it needs to be paired carefully so that the bitterness does not overwhelm the food flavors. All in all, a nice, fresh and playful take on Xinomavro, more in the vein of Cru Beaujolais or Jura Poulsard than the more prevalent “Greek Barolo” style. Probably best drunk in its youth. Priced according to its quality at 15,30€. (89 pts.)
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2017 Papargyriou Nebbiolo Don Giovanni - Greece, Peloponnisos (20.5.2020)
The first Greek Nebbiolo I’ve ever tasted. The grapes are sourced from the region of Corinthia in the Peloponnese peninsula. Aged for 26 months in 1300-liter oak barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 14,5% alcohol. Bottle #921. Tasted blind.
Pale, luminous and rather thin ruby color with a colorless rim. Quite restrained and somewhat sweet-toned nose with aromas of strawberry, some cherry marmalade, a little bit of toasty oak, light balsamic notes of lifted VA and a hint of pipe tobacco. The wine is ripe moderately full-bodied and quite grippy on the palate with dry flavors of ripe black cherries, some cedar oak, a little bit of savory wood spice, light bitter streak of amaro and a hint of tart lingonberry. Quite high in acidity with firm and rather assertive medium-plus tannins. The finish is stern and very tannic with long flavors of sweet, toasty wood spice, some tart lingonberry, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light woody notes of cedar and a hint of sweeter black cherry. The high alcohol lends some obvious warmth to the aftertaste.
A nice, stern and quite serious powerhouse of a wine that made the Xinomavros that were tasted alongside feel quite soft and easy. Overall the style is rather blockbuster-ish with quite a bit of emphasis on the oaky tones. There seems to be potential here, but the wine is a bit too young and clumsy now, not yet showing its best. Most likely this could really benefit from additional aging. Probably starting to sing at 10-15 years of age. Although I was not super-impressed now, the wine is nevertheless going to be terrific value for the money at 17€. (87 pts.)
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2016 Thymiopoulos Alta Naoussa - Greece, Macedonia, Naoussa (20.5.2020)
A cool-climate Xinomavro made in a style more reminiscent of Burgundy than Barolo. The grapes are sourced from some of the highest vineyards in Naoussa at the elevation of 550 m (1800 ft) above sea level. 12,5% alcohol.
Moderately pale, translucent and quite deep cherry red color. Ripe and slightly wild nose with distinctive aromas of raspberry candies, some ripe beet root, a little bit of juicy red cherry, light bretty notes of Band-Aid, a lambic-like hint of phenolic spice and farmhouse tones and a touch of leather. The nose isn’t particularly funky, but there’s a subtle yet obvious undertone of brett. The wine is ripe, juicy and quite gentle on the palate with a medium body and slightly sweet-toned flavors of strawberries, some savory phenolic spice, a little bit of succulent plummy fruit, light bretty notes of leather and farmhouse, a hint of earth and a touch of burnt hair. The wine is very soft and silky with its modest acidity and very gentle, easy tannins. The finish is ripe and quite gentle with a little bit of tannic grip and rather long, juicy aftertaste of strawberries, some leathery tones, a little bit of bretty Band-Aid, light plummy tones and a hint of sour cherry bitterness.
If one is accustomed to see Xinomavro as a stern and aggressively tannic wine, this is something completely different. While the wine is light and delicate in style, I really wouldn’t call this Burgundian, since the wine is also lacking quite a bit in acidity as well, which makes the wine rather soft, mellow and easy-drinking. Stylistically this feels closer to the Poulsards of Jura and the less serious village wines of Beaujolais than something that would bring Chambolle-Musigny to mind. The subtle bretty character brings nice, rustic complexity to the wine without overwhelming any lighter nuances of the fruit, though. All in all, an enjoyable wine, but I’d really want to see a bit structure and intensity here as well. This is nice, but nothing beyond that. Priced according to its quality at 13,70€. (86 pts.)
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2016 Kourtis Xinomavro - Greece, Macedonia (20.5.2020)
An organic Xinomavro from the foothills of Mount Olympus in Pieria, Macedonia. 13,5% alcohol.
Quite deep and somewhat translucent black cherry color. Ripe, brooding and quite concentrated nose with intense aromas of toasty oak spice, some wizened black cherries, a little bit of blackcurrant jam, light lifted notes of balsamic VA and a hint of sweet plummy fruit. The wine is dense, ripe and medium-to-moderately full-bodied on the palate with youthful and quite intense flavors of sour cherries, some wild strawberries, a little bit of toasty oak spice, light earthy tones, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of dark, plummy fruit. Nice sense of structure with the high acidity and assertive, quite grippy tannins. The long finish is dry, rather grippy and slightly warm with ripe and juicy flavors of sour cherries, some redcurrants, a little bit of amaro bitterness, light toasty oak tones, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of dark plummy fruit.
A very nice, robust and rather structured Xinomavro with lots of ripe, youthful fruit and good, structural framework to keep the sweetness of the fruit well in check. The oak seems rather dominant at times, which slightly distracted from enjoyment. However, the wine seems to show quite a bit of cellaring potential, so most likely the oak will integrate with the ripe fruit if given enough time. Most likely this is a wine that needs +10 years before it really starts to sing, so I heartily recommend some prolonged cellaring. Really great value at 17,80€. (91 pts.)
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2018 Chatzivaritis Mus (minimus series) - Greece, Macedonia, Goumenissa (20.5.2020)
A naturalist single-vineyard Xinomavro from the Filiaria vineyard located in Goumenissa. Labeled miniMUS. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel, aged in French oak casks, bottled with a minimal dose of sulfites. 13% alcohol.
Rather pale and fully translucent raspberry red color with a thin, colorless rim. The appearance reminds me of a young Nebbiolo. Very fragrant, open and fruity nose with aromas of ripe raspberries, some perfumed floral tones, light earthy tones of sandy soil, a little bit of wild strawberry, hints of wild funky tones and some phenolic smoke and a touch of grapey primary fruit. The wine is playful, ripe yet very dry and quite light-bodied on the palate with bright, youthful flavors of grapey primary fruit, some floral honeyed tones, a little bit of wild strawberry, light candied notes of raspberry marmalade and a perfumed hint of fragrant sauvage character. Overall the wine feel wonderfully fresh but also quite nervous and perhaps a bit too young for its own good. Wonderful high acidity with well-behaved and quite gentle medium tannins. The finish is gently grippy, dry and crunchy with quite long flavors of ripe redcurrants, some sanguine notes of iron, a little bit of grapey primary fruit, a hint of tart cranberry and a touch of sour cherry bitterness.
I’ve had some self-proclaimed Burgundian Xinomavros, but this was one that actually manages to fit the bill. Fresh, delicate and crunchy, yet still quite serious and wonderfully focused at the same time. Although the wine is pretty much a natural wine, it fortunately doesn’t taste at all “natty”, although it has that undeniable wild undercurrent that betrays the hands-off vinification. Based on how youthful and nervous the wine is, I’d say it isn’t going to be showing its best anytime soon. A lovely lighter-end Xinomavro that’ll be terrific if left to age for another 7-10 years. Priced according to its quality at 26€. (92 pts.)
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2014 Domaine Katsaros Xinomavro Valos - Greece, Thessaly, Larissa (20.5.2020)
An organic Xinomavro from the village of Krania, located in Larissa, Thessaly. This is the 2nd attempt at Xinomavro by the Katsaros winery. 13,5% alcohol.
Deep, moderately translucent and quite brooding black cherry color with a pale, clear rim. Brooding and quite concentrated yet still surprisingly delicate nose with aromas of cassis, some wizened red plums, a little bit of strawberry jam, light raisiny tones and floral hints of roses. The sunny weather shows, but doesn’t make the nose any less attractive. The wine is ripe, dark-toned and silky on the palate with brooding and quite dry flavors of juicy sour cherries, some leather, a little bit of wizened blackcurrant, light red plum tones, a hint of meaty umami and a touch of jammy sweetness. The acidity feels medium-to-moderately high and the structure relies more on the very firm, stern and noticeably grippy tannins. The finish is very grippy and quite tightly-knit with ripe flavors of sweet black cherries, some crunchy redcurrants, a little bit of leather, light earthy notes of sandy soil and sun-baked rocks, a hint of blackcurrant and a floral touch of rose petals.
A lovely and very nuanced Xinomavro with wonderfully fragrant overall character and convincingly stern, grippy tannic structure. The only thing that keeps the wine from getting a higher score is its rather modest acidity, which lends a bit too much room for the sweeter fruit tones. Nevertheless, this is a very serious and well-made effort and a very impressive wine is this was the 2nd Xinomavro ever by the Katsaros winery. Outrageous value at 15€. (93 pts.)
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2016 Melitzani Xinomavro - Greece, Macedonia, Naoussa (20.5.2020)
Aged for 10 months in French oak barrels. 13,5% alcohol.
Quite translucent and still relatively youthful ruby color with a pale pink rim. Very sweet, concentrated and somewhat lifted nose with aromas of rum raisin, some wizened black cherries, light balsamic notes of VA, a little bit of strawberry jam, a hint of tomato, a touch of arrack and a whiff of nail polish. The wine is broad, ripe and silky on the palate with rich and slightly volatile flavors of sour cherries, some ripe redcurrants, a little bit of rum raisin, light metallic tones, a hint of nail polish VA and a touch of prune. The medium-plus acidity is a bit of the softer side, but the moderately ample tannins that constantly pile up on the gums keep the wine firm enough. The finish is lively, fresh and more acid-driven with rich, long and somewhat lifted flavors of raisins, some rich liqueurish VA, a little bit of wizened black cherries, light bitter notes of amaro, a hint of arrack and a touch of balsamico.
Otherwise a nice, rustic and enjoyably ripe Xinomavro, but the lifted VA character is getting a bit overwhelming for me. Especially the nose has a very Malaga-like nose that reminds me of rum raisin ice cream, whereas the taste shows more classic volatile notes of balsamico and nail polish. On the palate the VA does not dominate, but feels a bit too noticeable all the same. A good wine, but the elevated levels of VA do take their toll on the score. Priced according to its quality at 16,50€. (86 pts.)
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2017 Dalamara Winery Xinomavro Naoussa - Greece, Macedonia, Naoussa (20.5.2020)
100% Xinomavro, aged for 12 months in oak. 13,5% alcohol.
Luminous and quite translucent ruby red color. Cool, fresh and vibrant nose with nuanced aromas of crunchy blackcurrants, some leather, a little bit of ripe tomato, light dusty earth tones, a lifted hint of sweet VA, a touch of wizened red plums and a leafy whiff of herbaceous greenness. The wine is ripe, bright and medium-bodied on the palate with savory flavors of cherry juicy, meaty umami, some leather, a little bit of cool minty herbal character, light notes of ripe tomato, a hint of wizened red plums and a touch of balsamico. Wonderfully high in acidity with quite grippy medium-to-moderately ample tannins. The rather acid-driven finish is juicy, ripe and moderately grippy with nuanced, savory flavors of cherries, some wizened red plums, a little bit of leather, light umami notes of gamey meat and a hint of ripe tomato.
A very lovely, fresh and enjoyably stern Xinomavro with lots of ripe - yet not too ripe - fruit and bright, crunchy structure. Although the wine is quite structure-driven, the ripe, nuanced fruit keeps the wine very harmonious and the wine is already very accessible despite its high acidity and ample tannins. Probably not a Xinomavro to be aged extensively, this most likely is going to be showing its best soon or within the first 10 years from the vintage. Very enjoyable stuff, highly recommended. A bargain at 14,80€. (93 pts.)
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2009 Kir-Yianni Xinomavro Ramnista - Greece, Macedonia, Naoussa (20.5.2020)
The fruit was first cold-soaked for 6 days, followed by Aged for 16 months in new (25%) and used (75%) 225-liter (75%) and 500-liter (25%) French and American oak casks (90% of the blend) and in stainless steel tanks (10% of the blend). Fermented for 2 weeks in stainless steel tanks (2/3) and open-top oak casks (1/3). 13,8% alcohol, 3 g/l residual sugar, 6,8 g/l acidity, 0,67 g/l volatile acidirt and pH 3,31. Total sulfites 99 mg/l, of which 21 mg/l remained free.
Deep, luminous and quite dark black cherry color. Dense, ripe and sweet-toned nose with aromas of toasty oak spice, some extracted, blackcurrant-driven dark fruit, a little bit of developed raisiny fruit, light black cherry tones, a hint of tomato leaf and a touch of mocha. The wine is dry, sinewy and noticeably structure-driven on the palate with a medium body and intense flavors of wizened black cherries and prunes, some sanguine notes of iron, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light toasty notes of oak and sweet mocha, a hint of tomato leaf and a touch of stony minerality. The structure remains still very stern and tightly-knit with its high acidity and very grippy tannins - yet the mouthfeel is starting to turn surprisingly silky and suave after 10 years of aging. The finish is dry, long and firmly grippy with intense flavors of sour cherry bitterness, some iron notes of blood, a little bit of stony minerality, light notes of ripe tomato, a sweet hint of toasty oak and a touch of raisiny dark fruit.
The wine has evolved surprisingly little over these 5½ years since I last tasted this wine. This is still quite a glossy and rather modern for a Xinomavro, but also remarkably mineral and structure-driven at that. Although the oak component still remains quite much to the fore, there is some sense of integration with the intense fruit, so the wine never comes across as too much of a blockbuster - which is further emphasized by its impressive structure. Still going up and most likely will continue to do so for many years more. Great stuff, although I hope the oak would integrate better with enough aging. Terrific value at 17,97€. (92 pts.)
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2017 Dalamara Winery Xinomavro Paliokalias Naoussa - Greece, Macedonia, Naoussa (20.5.2020)
100% Xinomavro from the organically farmed Paliokalias Cru, the oldest parts of which still hold some ungrafted 90-yo vines. Fermented spontaneously, macerated with the skins for 2½ weeks, aged for 12 months in oak in 300-liter French oak barrels (15-20% new). 14% alcohol.
Dark, youthful and rather translucent black cherry color. Nuanced and somewhat sweetish nose with vibrant aromas of wizened red plums, some sweet marmalade dark berries, a little bit of pruney dark fruit, light pipe tobacco tones, a perfumed hint of blue flowers and rose petals and a touch of stony minerality. The wine is lively, ripe and medium-to-moderately full-bodied on the palate with dry and juicy flavors of sweet black cherries, some concentrated red fruit tones, a little bit of wizened dark plums, light raisiny tones, a lifted and slightly volatile hint reminiscent of arrack and a touch of stony minerality. Very balanced and impressively complex overall feel. High acidity with firm and quite assertive medium-plus tannins that slowly pile up on the gums. The finish is slightly warm, vibrant and moderately tannic with grip that slowly piles up and intense flavors of sweet black cherries, some strawberries, a little bit of raisiny fruit, light stony mineral tones, a hint of fragrant floral character and a lifted touch of balsamic VA.
A very impressive, balanced and structured Xinomavro with wonderful complexity and depth of flavor. Obviously from a very solar vintage with a rather sweet and slightly raisiny edge to its fruit, yet still the wine manages to retain impressive freshness and precision thanks to its high acidity, while the firm yet not aggressive tannins keep the fruit nicely in check. Quite approachable effort for such a young Cru Xinomavro, but nevertheless it seems to be more about aging potential. Probably at its best around 10 years from the vintage. Really fine stuff, highly recommended. Priced according to its quality at 34,40€. (94 pts.)
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2016 Thymiopoulos Aftorizo Naoussa - Greece, Macedonia, Naoussa (20.5.2020)
A single-vineyard Xinomavro from the Aftorizo ungrafted vineyard planted in 1966 on their own roots. 85% destemmed, 15% whole bunches. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous over 3 months, of which 40 day macerated with the skins. Aged in 2nd-use oak demi-muids of 500-liters. 13,5% alcohol. Total production 1120 bottles.
Beautifully dark, somewhat youthful and quite translucent black cherry color. Dry, complex and somewhat earthy nose with aromas of sand dust, some sweet black cherry, a little bit of strawberry, light perfumed notes of blue flowers, a hint of gamey meat and a lifted, slightly ethery touch of of balsamic VA. The wine is ripe, harmonious and silky yet firm on the palate with sweet red fruits, ripe black cherries, some juicy blackberries, a little bit of tomato, light plummy tones, a hint of marmaladey red fruit and a touch of leather. Pretty structured and wonderfully textural feel, thanks to the moderately high acidity and quite grippy and assertive but not aggressive tannins. The finish is long, complex and quite grippy with ripe flavors of juicy cherries, some blackberries, a little bit of ripe tomato, light leathery tones, a hint of sweet plummy fruit and a sweet touch of VA lift.
At 76,80€ this must be one of the most expensive Xinomavros out there. At the same time, it is darn delicious, very harmonious and impressively complex as well. But worth the money? Well, I don’t know. In one hand, this has all the elements of a great world-class wine and it is pretty darn good. But in the other hand, this still isn’t anything out of the ordinary and I must say I’ve had even more impressive Xinomavros that can be purchased at the fraction of the price. I must commend Thymiopoulos for attempting to raise Xinomavro’s profile with the aggressive pricing - especially since the wine is so impressive to boot - but unless other producers join in, it might become an uphill battle. So, while the wine certainly delivers for the price, I still can’t say this is really worth the price, since the overall price level of Xinomavro is pretty affordable and this certainly isn’t the only wonderful Xinomavro in the world. Definitely worth to check out, though. (93 pts.)
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