TN: 2009 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Boudriotte - Transformer

  • 2009 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Boudriotte - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (6/10/2020)
    Wonderful wine - perfect drinking window. Upon first opening, I feared premox, as the wine was quite waxy and flabby, reticent on the nose. Very quickly, however, the wine emerged - tropical notes, bright and lively, chalky components came through. I love when I wine changes like this, and this is only 11 years old, but the transformation over the course of a couple hours was quite noticeable with nearly every sip. Spicy on the nose now, almost a curry component with the yellow and red apple. Absolutely gorgeous golden yellow color, like summer sunshine. Palate is really gaining in the flinty character I love so much with Chardonnay, and the finish is quite long. I can’t imagine a better time to drink this wine, if you have it - peaking right now, and infinitely enjoyable expression of Chardonnay

Great note, and happy you had a good experience with the bottle. I wish the various Gagnards all shifted to Diam as there’s some great wine and values in their various offerings. 2009 WBs have turned out really well I think, and good 1ers are hitting a lovely drinking window now.

Wish I had more…and was hesitant to open it tonight, but reading recent posts here on 2009 white Burgs pushed me to open it, and I’m so happy I have.

I have no experience with Gagnard prior to this bottle, actually. This was natural cork, as you likely know

Sounds like it is right in the zone Todd. Thanks for the note.

I really like the 2009 vintage for White Burgundy, from producers who picked early enough. Delighted whenever people get a great experience from such wines, but I just wondered from your description whether some people might have discarded this immediately as premoxed at the outset without giving it a chance?

Some of the words in your description are among those which may be associated with premature oxidation. <waxy and flabby/ Spicy on the nose now, almost a curry component with the yellow and red apple / golden yellow color> Sometimes it only needs a few minutes to get back on track though, as you note.

Jasper,

Definitely plenty would have first considered it premoxed, as I did, but the change was literally in seconds, so I would hope anyone who tries it at first would give it at least another sip or two…or just give it to me!!

The curry was later on, and, while slight, its uniqueness really stood out. I really enjoyed that type of spicy note, and it layered so perfectly with the yellow and red apple. Color definitely could have looked premoxed as well, but other than the first sip/smell, there was NO hint of premox (I wouldn’t consider the curry to be a premox flaw).

Thanks to this bottle, and researching more of Jeremy Holmes’ notes, I bought more white burg last night. Stop making me spend money, Holmes!

Interesting - I had a somewhat similar experience with a Pillot Chevy a year or so ago, which seemed somewhat flawed when poured into a decanter, but was glorious if poured from the bottle. A very strange bottle, and the rest of the lot have been spectacular. It was at a restaurant, and the somm thought it might be flawed, but no one could detect what the flaw might be.

I’m here to help, Todd.

How wines perform and occasionally transform - endlessly fascinating and sometimes frustrating

Nice Todd! I do love aged White Burgundy.

Interesting you, of all people, would consider a 2009 vintage to be ‘aged’! That’s still a young’n for you, no?

Oui!