Assorted notes from the past several months or so.
Domaine Comte Abbatucci, Vin de France, ‘Cuvee Collection, Diplonate d’Empire, Il Cavaliere’, 2011
This is typically an expensive wine that I got on a special sale and something I never would have bought otherwise. 14% Glistening light gold color with a platinum cast. Field flowers and grasses on the nose. Lightly savory, herbal with a light citrus touch. This is delicate in feel, but the finish is heavier than the palate would suggest; finishes with a blanched almond-calcium flavor. Tastes like spring-early summer in a bottle. As far as I can tell, the blend here is: 37% Vermentinu, 20% Rossola Bianca, 19% Biancu Gentile, 14% Genovese, 10% Brustiano. B+/A-
Egon Müller, Scharzhofberger, riesling, kabinett, 2009
10.5% Lime zest and elderflower on the nose, and palate, along with mica and verbena. Nicely flowery and savory at the same time, with traditional kabinett dryness level. Very youthful at 10 years, chiseled with bright acidity. Excellent. A
Sandlands, Mataro, San Benito County, 2015
14.1% This tastes on the stonier side, with mineral and savory notes and red fruit. Structured and subtle, but a little thin in the middle. An austere mourvedre that needs more time - if I had another bottle I’d say to drink it in 5-7 years, with additional upside. For now, a B+
Chateau Beychevelle, Saint Julien, 2000
Really deeply colored. Upon opening there is a slight mustiness that could have almost have been mistaken for corkiness, but thankfully it blows off with aeration. This is so classic: tar, black fruits, blackcurrant leaf, and licorice. Round, sweet, and full with blackcurrants and darkish fruits. Despite feeling young and concentrated, this is more hedonistic than intellectual as it doesn’t have tons of complexity. 13% A-
Ciro Picariello, Fiano di Avellino, ‘Ciro 906’, 2012
14% Time has been kind to this, and I think I enjoyed this second bottle than the one from years ago. The high acidity previously shown has integrated beautifully. You’re lying in a field of summer hay or sunflowers, drinking a wine that is light and savory, with a little lingering bitterness like a dandelion that your mouth catches as you roll in that July field. A-
Jean-Baptiste Souillard, Vin de France, Rousanne, 2016
Light brassy gold colored. Honeyed acacia on the aromatic nose. Golden plums, a slight bit of lemon oil, green Chartreuse, and a slight ending nuttiness in the mouth. Well done and excellent for the modest price. 12% Between a B+ and an A-, depending on your sips.
Domaine Fourrier, Chambolle Musigny, ‘vielle vignes’, 2006
Strangely weird occluded bright red color, too bright for a red Burgundy. Simple red fruited nose followed with simple tart red fruits on the palate. Nothing special to see here and rather strangely constructed. Not a fan of this bottle. Let’s unrate this because it is just not good.
Domaine Fourrier, Gevrey Chambertin, vielle vignes, 2006
Because of the disappointment with the other vv, let’s try a different village to see if the problem was vintage related. Okay, this is more like it: raspberry-scented, high-toned…tastes of it’s 14-year life. It’s a bit lacking in the middle and has drying tannins on the end and one-note, but at least it feels like a Burgundy, just not one I want to drink.
Terra di Lavoro, Roccamonfina IGT, 2009
A stewed, almost Maderized feel to the wine at first impression, but opens up with air to black cherry, herbs, some volatile acidity and a sour finish. High acidity and a mineral streak, but surprisingly few tannins left. Not coming across as great. 13.5% Need age?
Domaine des Carlines, Cotes du Jura, Chardonnay, ‘En Lya’, 2016
Sharp lemon aromas repeat on the palate, along with light unripe pineapple and a caraway seed finish, which ends abruptly. There is good acidity here and this could probably age well in the mid-term (5-7 years). Something green comes across as well, like bamboo leaf. A little spritzy. Holds up well into the 3rd day. B+/A-
GAEC Gallet, Cote Rotie, 2005
Youthful color. Mulled plums and boysenberry on the nose. Plums, red fruits like red apple skin and pomegranate take on a saline quality. Crabapple-like tannins are still present on this youthful feeling wine, but the lack of sharp acidity make me feel like I’m drinking a Loire cab franc than a Rhone wine. A-
Domaine Belluard, Vin de Savoie, ‘Le Feu’, cepage Gringet, 2012
Walnut-shell tawny gold colored. Bitter almond nose. Tastes skin fermented, with lemon pith phenolics, sour green apple, savory. Has a lengthy finish with medium acidity, quite rich despite the 12% alcohol. Interesting, even at this advanced age. Expensive, but something I wouldn’t mind having a bottle of around the house. B+/A-