Early June we had a tasting that was supposed to be on old California / Australia wines, since those are styles we very rarely see here and everybody was eager to taste some. After all, it’s quite easy to get your hands on old European wines around here (although the Finnish alcohol monopoly doesn’t do anything to help with that), but we see very little better-end wines from the US and Australia around here in the EU - and virtually no aged ones whatsoever. For several attendees this was the first opportunity to taste SQN, as those bottles quite rarely leave the States.
Things started off quite normally, but since the tasting was held in an offsite wine cellar where several of the attendees kept their wines, things spun quite quickly out of control as people decided the tasting was going to end all too soon and ultimately we ended up having a tasting with double the amount of bottles we originally planned. Not that I’m complaining!
Here’s the lineup that originally had a red thread of sorts, just to have it disappear somewhere along the way.
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2001 Sine Qua Non Albino - USA, California, Central Coast (6.6.2020)
A blend of Chardonnay (46%), Roussanne (40%) and Viognier (14%) from Alban vineyard (in Edna Vally, San Luis Obispo County) and Stolpman vineyard (in Ballard Canyon, Santa Barbara County). Labeled 14,9% alcohol, supposedly 15,1% alcohol in reality.
Quite deep and concentrated lemon yellow color with a hint of neon green. The nose feels ripe and concentrated with intense aromas of beeswax, some browned butter, a little bit of spicy red apple, light honeyed tones, sweet hints of canned pineapple and lemon marmalade and a touch of resin. The wine is full-bodied, concentrated and somewhat hot on the palate with quite opulent but also very complex flavors of overripe mirabelle plums, some minty herbal lift, a little bit of toasty oak spice, light pineapple tones, a hint of browned butter and a touch of resin. Medium-plus acidity. The finish is ripe, rich and concentrated with rather obvious alcohol warmth and quite bold flavors of pineapple, some savory wood spice, a little bit of beeswax, light notes of sweet exotic spices, a hint of honey and a cooling touch of peppermint.
A very rich, weighty and complex white wine that is really ripe and quite heavy in character due to its high alcohol and relatively modest acidity. However, the wine never once feels dull or overdone, due to its layers and layers of flavors and complexity. I would’ve thought a Rhône-ish white blend from California clocking at almost 20 years of age would be long gone, but the wine is very much alive and still kickin’! Seeing how rather developed it is, I doubt there is going to be much or any evolution here, but I suspect the wine is not going to be falling apart anytime soon either. An impressive and very much complete wine - although I must say it feels quite a bit pricey for its quality at 196€. (93 pts.)
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2010 R. López de Heredia Rioja Blanco Viña Gravonia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (6.6.2020)
100% Viura from Viña Zaconia vineyard located in the commune of Zaco. The wine gets its name because it is a Spanish emulation of the classic whites of the Graves region. After the spontaneous fermentation, the wine is aged for 4 years in predominantly old American oak barrels and bottled unfiltered. 12,5% alcohol, 6,5 g/l acidity. Total production 14,500 bottles.
Quite deep and moderately concentrated lemon-yellow color. Cool, restrained and waxy nose with complex, oxidative aromas of rosin, some ripe red apple, a little bit of savory old wood, light notes of vanilla custard, a hint of dried white fruits and a touch of bruised apple. The wine is lively, somewhat waxy and wonderfully nuanced on the palate with a medium body and pretty intense, oxidative flavors of sweet golden apple, some waxy tones, a little bit of rosin, light toasty notes of crème brûlée, a hint of lemony citrus fruit and a touch of browned butter. Quite high and very balanced acidity that lends great sense of intensity and structure to the wine. The finish is fresh, quite acid-driven and very precise with intense flavors of lemony citrus fruits, some creamy notes of vanilla custard, light buttery notes, a little bit of caramel, a hint of rosin and a mineral touch of tangy salinity.
Consistent with my previous notes. A wonderfully fresh, complex and precise old-school white Rioja that is still a mere baby even though it is clocking at almost 10 years of age. The wine felt at first somewhat restrained and underwhelming and the TN was written only after the wine had been sitting for some time in the glass, opening up; this wine certainly seems to benefit from decanting. Thrilling and thought-provoking - as RLdH wines invariably are. Although starting to get quite pricey for a Gravonia, this is still outstanding value for the quality at 20€. (93 pts.)
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2009 Crushpad Pinot Noir Töövi Hayley Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley (6.6.2020)
Aged for 10 months in a used barrique. 14,2% alcohol.
Beautifully luminous, translucent blood red color with a hint of developed pomegranate hue. Rather restrained nose with somewhat developed aromas of ripe cherries, some dusty earth, a little bit of savory old wood, light cranberry tones, a hint of bloody meat and a fragrant, mature touch of dried flowers. The wine is ripe, juicy and harmonious on the palate with a medium body and flavors of ripe black cherries and cranberries, stony minerality, some sanguine notes of meaty umami, light plummy tones, a little bit of savor wood spice and a sweet hint of raspberry jam. High in acidity with soft medium tannins. The finish is ripe, textural and somewhat sweet-toned with long flavors of wizened black cherries, some marmaladey dark fruit, light figgy tones, a little bit of raspberry jam, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of savory oak spice.
A fruity, stylish and balanced Cali Pinot that feels both hedonistic and surprisingly fresh, both at the same time. Starting to show some signs of age, but not peaking yet. Delicious. (90 pts.)
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1997 Tom Eddy Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Mt. Veeder (6.6.2020)
13,8% alcohol.
Translucent, moderately developed black cherry color. Dull, dusty and underwhelming nose with a hint of damp earth. Ripe but very flavorless on the palate with earthy flavors of TCA.
Corked. NR (flawed)
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1989 Opus One - USA, California, Napa Valley (6.6.2020)
13% alcohol.
Developed, dark brick-red color with a pale orange rim. Intense, tertiary nose with mature aromas of wizened blackcurrants, some raisiny notes, a little bit of cheese rind, light savory notes of beef jerky, autumnal hints of damp leaves and earthy mushrooms and a touch of hoi sin. The nose is starting to be quite dominated by developed, non-fruity aromas. The wine is ripe, quite full-bodied and wonderfully silky on the palate with evolved, tertiary flavors of meaty umami wizened blackcurrants, some sweet figgy fruit, light raisiny notes, a little bit of savory wodd spice, a hint of soy sauce and a touch of earthy sous-bois. The mouthfeel is not only quite silky but also rather soft with the medium-plus tannins and textural medium tannins that slowly pile up on the gums. The finish s ripe, round and somewhat sweet-toned with flavors of raisiny dark fruit, some soy sauce, light savory notes of meaty umami, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness and a hint of dried dates.
A tasty and silky smooth but also rather soft and quite tertiary vintage of Opus One. Obviously has been on its plateau of maturity for some while and most likely has started to go downhill a short while ago. Still very enjoyable and harmonious, but is more about those savory non-fruit flavors than pure fruit flavors typical of Napa. Lacking a bit on structure, due to its relatively modest acidity and fully resolved tannins. Good stuff, but nothing truly memorable. Best to drink sooner rather than later. Feels pretty overpriced for the quality at 220€. (89 pts.)
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1999 Jim Barry Shiraz The Armagh - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley (6.6.2020)
15% alcohol.
Dense, only very slightly translucent black cherry color with an evolved mahogany hue. The nose feels very concentrated and quite evolved with intense aromas of wizened dark forest fruits, some plummy tones, light lifted green tones of peppermint and eucalyptus, light savory notes of wood spice, a hint of game and a touch of raisins. The raisiny fruit tones seem to grow in intensity as the wine opens up in the glass. The wine feels dry, dense and rather robust on the palate with a very full and chewy body and intense flavors of raisiny dark fruit, some bloody meat, light extracted notes of woody bitterness, a little bit of minty herbal character, light peppery tones and a hint of roasted game. The wine is impressively structured for an Australian red clocking at 20 years of age, thanks to its fresh, high acidity and ample, pretty grippy tannins. The finish is rather warm due to the high alcohol with quite firm tannic grip and intense flavors of wizened dark berries, some savory oak spice, light minty notes of menthol, light raisiny notes, a sanguine hint of iron and a touch of beef jerky.
A wonderfully evolved and still impressively structured Australian red with tremendous intensity and persistence. The fruit is starting to be somewhat on the raisiny and slightly porty side, which the high alcohol only seems to exacerbate. Nevertheless, performing wonderfully right now. Seemed to turn more raisiny over the evening, suggesting that the wine won’t keep much longer. I’d drink this sooner rather than later, based on this taste. Peaking at the moment and I doubt the wine will benefit from any further aging, although it might keep good for many more years. Rather pricey at 87,50€, but not prohibitively so. Definitely among the best aged Aussie reds I’ve had. (94 pts.)
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1999 Sine Qua Non Syrah The Marauder - USA, California (6.6.2020)
100% Syrah from Alban Vineyard (40%), Bien Nacido Vineyard (36%) and Stolpman Vineyard (24%). Macerated with the skins for 2 weeks. Aged for 17 months in new oak barrels (78% French, 22% American). The label says the wine is 14,9% alcohol, other sources only 14,2% alcohol. Bottled on May 20th, 2001.
Strikingly youthful and quite translucent cherry red color. Based on its appearance, I would’ve guessed the wine is from 2009-2014, not 10-15 years older! The nose is very open, fragrant and wonderfully expressive with virbant aromas of ripe red berries, some inky tones, even a little bit of Pinosity, light floral notes of violets, a Bourbon hint of sweet caramel oak, a sweet touch of raspberry marmalade and a cooling whiff of coniferous forest. Lots of things going on here. The wine is ripe, lively and pure-fruited with a full body and intense, juicy flavors of sweet raspberries, some ripe blackberries, light toasty oak notes with slightly Bourbony vanilla undertones, a little bit of boysenberry, a hint of blood and a developed touch of tobacco. The wine boasts quite impressive structure with its moderately high acidity and firm, somewhat grippy tannins that slowly pile up on the gums. The finish is fresh, lively and gently grippy with intense flavors of boysenberries and sweet plummy fruit, some blackberry marmalade, light gamey notes, a little bit of savory wood spice, a hint of bright cherry fruit and a touch of vanilla.
I was really surprised by this wine. I was prepared to dismiss it as a blowzy, excessively ripe cult wine made in a blockbuster style, but it turned out to be not only very balanced, sophisticated and delicious on the palate, but exceptionally youthful and vibrant for its age as well. Everybody in the tasting was pretty much awestruck by the youth and vigor here: we had four new world reds from 1999-1989 in this flight and this wine was miles younger in style than any of the other three wines. All in all, a top-notch Cali Syrah with outstanding balance and wonderful depth of fruit. The wine is certainly showing a lot more ripeness than your typical Northern Rhône Syrah, but it is still far from a flabby, overripe Cali Syrah. Terrific stuff. Nevertheless, I really don’t understand the SQN wine prices and despite all its freshness and finesse I wouldn’t say this was worth the price at 270€. (95 pts.)
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1997 L’Ecosse Cabernet Franc Cuvée hommage de Jeanne D’Arc - USA, California, Napa Valley (6.6.2020)
15,7% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Developed, moderately translucent blackish mahogany color with a luminous brick-red rim. Ripe and intense nose with rich aromas of juicy blackcurrants, some chipotle, light evolved notes of consommé and beef jerky, light sweet notes of wizened dark plums, a hint of cooked bell pepper and a touch of smoke. The wine is full-bodied and noticeably ripe yet still quite dry and savory on the palate with juicy flavors of blackcurrants, cooked bell pepper, some succulent plummy fruit, a little bit of tobacco, light gamey notes, a hint of cherry liqueur and a smoky touch of chipotle. The high alcohol lends some obvious warmth to the palate. The overall feel is quite opulent and muscular with the extracted, chewy body, moderately high acidity and assertive, rather grippy tannins. The finish is juicy, quite warm and rather grippy with intense flavors of black cherries, some sweet bell pepper, a little bit of tobacco, light savory oak notes, a hint of developed beef jerky and a touch of blackcurrant marmalade.
A very lovely, nuanced and seriously structured Cabernet Franc with tons of fruit and power. Although the wine is quite big and heavy in style with lots of ripeness, it never comes across as fat or ponderous, thanks to the impressive and still pretty tightly-knit structure. The overall feel is a bit too ripe, sweet-toned and high in alcohol for my taste, but there’s no denying that this is a pretty serious effort for a Napa Cab Franc. Nothing particularly Chinon here, but I guess nobody can really expect that. Outstanding value at 32€. (92 pts.)
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2008 Château Belgrave - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc (6.6.2020)
13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Dark and almost fully opaque black cherry color with a somewhat developed maroon hue. Savory, somewhat understated and quite lean nose with aromas of pencil shavings, some juicy blackcurrants, light meaty notes, a little bit of savory wood spice, a hint of dusty earth and a touch of cherry. The wine is dense, dry and very tightly-knit on the palate with medium-to-moderately full body and quite intense flavors of pronounced sour cherry bitterness, ripe blackcurrant, some plummy tones, a little bit of earthy spice, light woody notes of pencil shavings and a hint of crunchy redcurrant. Overall the wine is pretty tough and austere with its high acidity and rather stern, assertive and grippy tannins. The finish is tough, dry and tannic with long, savory flavors of woody pencil shavings, some fresh blackcurrants, a little bit of toasty oak spice, light leafy tones and a hint of graphite.
A stern, cold and rather tough Médoc, made in a quite classic old-school Bordeaux style. There’s definitely some fruit, but relatively little in the way of ripeness - yet the wine doesn’t come across as particularly leafy, vegetal or bell peppery in any way. It’s just bone-dry, tough and quite noticeably bitter. I do enjoy the stern anti-crowdpleaser style here, but it feels like the wine is going to need another decade or so before it starts to come across as approachable. Tasty stuff, but nothing too accessible. Needs more age. (88 pts.)
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2008 Crushpad Pinot Noir Töövi Hein Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley (6.6.2020)
A part of the grapes were vinified as whole clusters. Aged for 10 months in a 50% French oak barrel. 13,7% alcohol.
Quite pale and slightly hazy pomegranate color. Somewhat evolved nose with aromas of ripe cranberries, some beef jerky, a little bit of sanguine iron, light earthy notes, a hint of peppery Pinosity and a touch of wizened cherry. The wine is ripe, light-to-medium-bodied and pretty juicy on the palate with a perhaps the slightest hint of CO2 fizz that blows off almost immediately. Flavors of ripe cranberries, some sweet black cherries, light notes of licorice, a little bit of stony minerality, a hint of juicy strawberry and a savory touch of stemmy spice. Soft medium-plus acidity with easy, ripe tannins. The finish is ripe, soft and mellow with juicy, gentle flavors of strawberries, some dark plummy fruit, a little bit of meaty umami, light peppery tones, a hint of earth and a woody touch of stemmy spice.
A pleasant, soft and easy Cali Pinot that is starting to show some age. In a nice, accessible phase right now, showing good sense of spicy Pinosity and juicy, sunny fruit. Seems to lack the freshness and precision of the best Töövi Pinot vintages, coming across as bit on the softer side. (87 pts.)
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2009 Philippe Alliet Chinon Coteau de Noiré - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon (6.6.2020)
An organic Cabernet Franc from the Coteau de Noiré Cru. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts. Aged for 18 months in oak barrels (25% new). 13% alcohol.
Somewhat evolved and quite translucent black ruby color with a mature pomegranate hue. Classic Loire Cab Franc nose of bell pepper, fresh blackcurrant, some ripe redcurrant, light inky notes and a crunchy hint of black raspberry. The wine is surprisingly fresh and bright for a 2009 with a medium body and vibrant flavors of brambly black raspberries, blackcurrants and crunchy redcurrants, some tart lingonberry tones, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light herbaceous notes of leafy greenness, a hint of tobacco and a touch of gravelly minerality. High in acidity with firm medium-plus tannins. The finish is dry, savory and lengthy with bright flavors of ripe blackcurrants, some red plums, a little bit of herbaceous bell pepper, light meaty notes of raw bloody game, a hint of juicy dark fruit and a touch of savory oak spice.
A sophisticated, vibrant and quite polished Chinon with good emphasis on the purity of fruit. Lacks the funk and rusticity many associate with the wines of Chinon, but doesn’t come across as any less impressive. The overall style here is remarkably fresh, poised and well-balanced even though the wine comes from the rather warm 2009 vintage. Even some herbaceous bell pepper notes peek through every now and then despite the vintage! All in all, a well-made, juicy and harmonious effort. Priced according to its quality at 30€. (91 pts.)
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2009 Foradori Granato - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT (6.6.2020)
Lot 07/11. 13% alcohol.
Dense, intense and fully opaque inky purplish appearance with a dark reddish hue. The nose is ripe, brooding and at first somewhat closed with a bit of stuffy reduction that fortunately blows off quite quickly, revealing aromas of blueberries, some inky tones, a little bit of ripe blackcurrants, light meaty notes of game, a lifted hint of ethery VA and a touch of red cherries. The nose seems to gain intensity as the reduction disappears. On the palate the wine feels surprisingly intense, concentrated and quite tightly-knit for a Foradori with a rather full body. Intense flavors of blueberries, some crunchy blackcurrants, light sweet notes of ethery VA, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, a hint of inky character and a touch of meaty umami. Surprisingly youthful overall feel for the age. High in acidity with ample tannins that appear rather soft and easy at first but which turn quite grippy as they pile up on the gums. The long finish is ripe, chewy and quite tannic with intense, concentrated flavors of blueberries, some inky notes, a little bit of ripe blackberries, light balsamic notes of VA, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of crunchy, tart crowberry.
A very stern, structured and surprisingly concentrated effort for a Foradori. This was my first Granato ever, so I have no idea if this was representative of the wine or an exceptionally bold and muscular vintage. Nevertheless, the wine performed flawlessly, coming across as pretty big and impressive by all accounts. Furthermore, the wine was surprisingly youthful for its age, showing remarkably little maturity now at +10 years - most likely thanks to the reductive nature of the wine. In a good phase right now, but certainly benefits from aeration if opened now. Most likely will continue to improve for years more. Highly recommended. (93 pts.)
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2009 Marcel Deiss Engelgarten - France, Alsace (6.6.2020)
Labeled as “Le Jardin des Anges”. A blend of Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and Muscat. 12,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Medium-deep golden yellow color. Developed, nutty nose with complex aromas of browned butter, some caramel, light toasty notes of brioche, light smoky tones, a hint of lemon marmalade and a touch of bruised apple. The wine is rich, tactile and full-bodied on the palate with dry, complex flavors of caramel and bruised apple, some crunchy quince, light notes of overripe white peach, a little bit of nuttiness, a hint of honeyed sweetness and a touch of smoke. The rather high acidity keeps the wine very nicely in balance. The finish is very long, complex and quite developed with layered flavors of apple core, some mature nutty notes, a little bit of caramel, light mineral notes of tangy salinity, a hint of creaminess and a touch of browned butter.
A wonderfully developed, complex and quite voluminous white that was basically impossible to place anywhere: it took some time for the people in the tasting to finally place it to France, but even then nobody managed to guess Alsace. After all, Deiss doesn’t make the most typical of Alsatian whites and the +10 years of age seem to have obliterated the last nuances of typicity. Nevertheless, a very rewarding, complex and thoroughly enjoyable wine all the same. In a great phase right now and possibly will continue to improve for some years more. Very lovely. (94 pts.)
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2005 Marcel Deiss Engelgarten - France, Alsace (6.6.2020)
Labeled as “1er Cru Bergheim”. A blend of Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and Muscat. 12,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Developed pale bronze color. Developed and surprisingly sappy, herbal and green-toned nose with tertiary aromas of caramel, some sweet nutty notes of Marsala, light medicinal notes of Fernet Branca or Riga Black Balsam, a hint of peppermint and a touch of dried stone fruits. The wine is rich, full-bodied and very complex on the palate with layered medium-sweet flavors of bruised apple, some toffee, light herbal notes of Fernet Branca, light apple sauce tones, sweet hints of caramel and lemon marmalade and a touch of smoke. Very juicy and succulent overall feel with moderately high acidity that lends good sense of balance to the wine. The finish is rich, juicy and complex with tertiary off-dry flavors of apple jam, some lemon marmalade. light nutty notes, a little bit of beeswax, a herbal hint of Fernet Branca and a touch of tangy salinity.
A very complex and delicious Alsace white that had a very weird and atypical nose with a very distinctive streak of Fernet Branca -like herbal character that continued on to the taste as well. Furthermore, the developed oxidative qualities hadn’t turned this wine as much into classically nutty, developed white wine, but into something much more reminiscent of Marsala. I guess the wine would’ve been pretty much all over the place had it been bone-dry, but the residual sugar seemed to have a sort of cohesive role here, making the wine turn out to be surprisingly tasty and even quite rewarding on the palate. Quite enjoyable stuff, despite its quirky nature. Nobody in the tasting had no idea we were drinking Alsace - unsurprisingly. (90 pts.)
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