Up until July 4th, 2019, one of my highlights of the year was to celebrate that day with dear friend, Burt Williams, in his upper Santa Barbara Riviera home away from his primary home in Forestville, Sonoma County.
This house had those magnificent views of the local mountains behind and facing the channel islands, ocean and lower Santa Barbara city neighborhoods, harbor and marina. We had the perfect place to watch the very serious, spectacular fireworks display that emanated from the harbor which would commence at 9 pm in the evening.
Family and a few friends would bring all sorts of food and wine and it was a grand day with lots of kindred spirits communing throughout.
Of course, the wines of choice would always include some of Burts gems, usually in magnums. Daughter Margi, Brogan Cellars, would contribute righteously as well with some of her treasures. They would also have some wines made by Burts son, Fred {deceased}, under his Seven Lions label.
I always took a fine champagne and at least one of Burt`s Pinots and he would critique me on the particulars of that vintage, the harvest and other essential factors relating to the wine{s}. I was blessed to have numerous occasions where that type of conversation went on for hours reviewing many WS wines of interest as well as inside winemaking procedures. I ate it up and loved it.
Advanced symptoms of Parkinson`s finally took its toll and he was unable to travel to SB when it came time to celebrate the 4th last year and he passed in December. I lost a special friend and still acknowledge and honor that relationship frequently, often with a tear or three.
Fortunately and gratefully, Margi came back to the area to celebrate this 4th as a last minute whim and Roelanda and I joined her and her 2 sons for a wonderful afternoon and early evening in their beachfront hotel suite on a stellar Santa Barbara day. Toasts were made to Burt, his first wife Jan, also deceased, and his other daughter Katie who remained in Forvestville.
We drank exceptionally well:
2006 TAITTINGER COMTES de CHAMPAGNE BLANC de BLANC- Margi is desiring to get into drinking and understanding champagne and I could not think of a better bring to give here the exposure to one of the current stars; as with the 30+ previous bottles I’ve enjoyed, this one shined with bright acidity and beautiful balance while giving generous amounts of spicy citrus fruit with lemon and lime most prevalent, but now some stone fruit is coming in; it also had the requisite toasty brioche note and a creamy, rich and luscious mousse which gave rise to its incredible mouthfeel; it was perhaps a touch more evolved than I can remember any previous bottle and still a long ways away from its apogee; were off to a great start.
1990 WILLIAMS SELYEM ALLEN VINEYARD RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY CHARDONNAY in magnum- Burt made some of the best new world Chardonnay I’ve ever had and the 90` Allen was the first he made from this and any source and one of his best IMHO; this bottle was very mature evidenced by the amber gold color and advanced aromas of honeysuckle, caramel and almond butter along with a streak of minerals and steel that persisted throughout; the taste had honeyed golden delicious apple, pear and yellow peach as well and it seemed to get better with time; great, mature 30 year old Chardonnay.
As an aside, John Ferrington assisted in making the WS Chardonnay in 94 and 96 resulting in a stylistic change that was very evident and different from those of 90-93`; Also, contrary to a rumor I’ve heard, Helen Turley did not make any WS wines although, by an arrangement by Ed Selyem, she did make her own Hyde and ……. Chardonnays and was available to consult Burt should he ever chose to do so which he did not do.
2016 BROGAN CELLAR LOCAMORE RANCH VINEYARD MENDOCINO COUNTY CHARDONNAY- 14.2% abv; medium yellow color; this was an unexpected Chablis like wine with lots of minerals and flint backing up the bright citrus fruit which on the palate turned out to be honeyed lemon and orange zest with minerals and flint carrying on to the back end; it was full bodied and yet had lots of finesse and charm; this is excellent Chardonnay with years to go and a perfect candidate for a blind tasting where most would get this as a Chablis.
1995 WILLIAMS WELYEM SUMMA VINEYARD SONOMA COAST PINOT NOIR in magnum- how wonderful! This is one of my top 5 all time wines ever, if not #! and here it is one more time and in magnum too; the last time I had it was in February when a group of South San Francisco Bay Area folks put on a tribute dinner to Burt which Roelanda and I attended along with his daughter Katie who brought it; both were perfect replications of the mag he opened 10 years ago when we went to a house party at one of his friends in Healdsburg; it had a similar grainy, cinnamon reddish color, perhaps a bit darker, the same cinnamon and spice accented red raspberry and strawberry fruit carried all the way through while maintaining perfect balance; it magically hit all of the sensory receptors with grace and charm and left one with an impression of a grand experience.
Burt kept meticulous notes and for this wine he showed that at harvest the grapes had the following readings: 24.5º Brix, pH 3.09 and TA 0.99. The wine at bottling showed the following: 13.9% alc., pH 3.29 and TA 0.964 {note: Burt never acidified}. No stem inclusion; the wine spent 16 months in 100% new Francois Frères French oak. The price upon release was $125 per 750 ml and total production was 52 cases.
2002 BROGAN CELLARS SUMMA VINEYARD SONOMA COAST PINOT NOIR- Margi pulled out all of the stops, bringing some really good shit and this was another one of them with simply amazing aromatics, taste, feel and length; following its light to medium red color came loads of flavors including spice and clove laden blueberry, red cherry and black raspberry while being delivered in a smooth textured medium which enhanced the finish by coating the palate with this delicious juice that is drinking so well now with promises to hold up for many years more.
1990 WILLIAMS SELYEM LENO MARTINELLI RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY VINEYARD ZINFANDEL- this is one of the best Zins Burt made and it showed beautifully with blueberry, plum and black currant fruit and a bit of spice; it was so flavorful and in a blind tasting, not easily identifiable as a Zin as Burt tested me twice with blind wines and I called it a Pinot.
It was so very special to be able to re-live so many wonderful 4th of July times that I truly treasured. Margi carried on the tradition, at least for this one time, and may it continue year after year. I can live off of memories like this.
Cheers,
Blake
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