TN: A selection of fine South African wines, white and red, young and old

Last week I went to a tasting of South African wines, most of the wines/producers representing a more classic, old-school (or, “old world”) style. Lots of fine stuff, although I think that some of the older wines were getting a bit past their peak, making me think that for most South African wines might hit their peak at around 10-ish years and ~15 years is a bit too much. However, there were some exceptions to this rule, like 2003 Morgenster.

  • NV Twee Jonge Gezellen Krone The Phoenix - South Africa, Coastal Region, Tulbagh (26.7.2020)
    A multi-vintage blend of 2004, 2005 and 2006. alcohol, 12%, 5 g/l residual sugar, 6,9 g/l acidity and pH 3.

Pale lemon yellow color. Somewhat evolved nose with aromas of chopped nuts, some ripe lemony citrus fruits, a little bit of bready autolysis, light almond notes and a hint of apple core. The wine is light-to-medium-bodied, ripe and juicy on the palate with flavors of slightly sweet-toned white fruits, some spicy red apple, a little bit of brioche, light yeasty tones, a hint of stony minerality and a subtly whisky-like touch of savory wood, making me wonder whether that’s just aging on the lees or if the base wine has seen some oak. Medium acidity. The overall feel is quite balanced, but the fruit seems a bit tired. The finish is a bit more developed compared to the midpalate with slightly short flavors of wizened white fruits, some chalky minerality, a little bit of mealy golden apple, light yeasty notes, an autolytic hint of brioche and a touch of mushroomy funk.

Apparently this is an attempt to make a new-world contender for Prestige Cuvée Champagne. The pieces are there, but as a whole the wine falls a little short: the acidity feels adequately high to keep the wine balanced, but not high enough to make it feel fresh and precise. Furthermore, the fruit feels slightly tired and it hasn’t been replaced by any tertiary complexity. It might just be that this bottle was not performing optimally, but it might be that this wine just performed better upon release. It is enjoyable, and a good effort for a prestige MCC, but it doesn’t seem to be built to age. Perhaps a bit pricey at 35,40€, but the price is justifiable seeing how long the wine has been aged before release. (86 pts.)

  • 2006 Naudé White - South Africa, Western Cape (26.7.2020)
    A blend of Chenin Blanc (56%), Sémillon (37%) and Sauvignon Blanc (9%). 13% alcohol, 1,6 g/l residual sugar, 5,8 g/l acidity and pH 3,40).

Medium-deep yellow-green color. At first slightly weird and somewhat cheesy nose what opens up into something slightly less weird: aromas of chopped nuts, some sweet tropical fruits, light woody tones, a little bit of fried napa cabbage and a hint of wet wool. The wine is broad, full-bodied and rather evolved on the palate with flavors of ripe and juicy red apples, some spicy wood notes, a little bit of tropical fruit, light oaky notes of creaminess, molten butter and sawdust, a hint of goat cheese and a touch of asparagus. The medium-plus acidity feels moderately high, although the rich body could use some more. The medium-long finish is juicy and quite sweet-toned with flavors of pineapple, some toasty oak spice, light creamy tones, a little bit of savory wood, a hint of spicy red apple and a touch of goat cheese.

A quite enjoyable, aged South African white. However, I’m not sure whether it is the style, or just the age doing its tricks, but this felt a bit too “new world” for my taste: a bit too heavy, acidity on a bit too modest side and the oaky tones still somewhat on the fore. A decent and characterful effort, but nothing that would make me swoon. Great value at 16,80€, however. (87 pts.)

  • 2007 Ken Forrester Chenin Blanc Old Vine Reserve - South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch (26.7.2020)
    Quite deep golden yellow color. Somewhat restrained and moderately evolved nose with aromas of golden apples, some wool, a little bit of wet stones and a hint of white peach. Not giving much. The wine is full-bodied, concentrated and moderately developed on the palate with ripe, sweet-toned flavors of cantaloupe, ripe golden apples, some savory oak spice, a little bit of stony minerality, light notes of damp wool, a hint of creaminess and a touch of honeyed richness. The acidity feels moderately high, but so does the alcohol, lending a bit of warmth to the mouthfeel. The finish is ripe, rich and quite lengthy with nuanced flavors of exotic spices, some cantaloupe, light honeyed tones, a little bit of sweet oak spice and a hint of toast.

A good, nuanced and interesting Chenin Blanc, but perhaps slightly on the tired side - the fruit feels rich and the flavors complex, but the overall feel is getting a bit fat and flat, the acidity not able to lend sufficient freshness to the wine. Also the damp, woolly lanolin notes - typical of aged Chenin - take the fore at times, distracting slightly from the enjoyment, but fortunately not too much. All in all, a good, complex new world Chenin Blanc, but perhaps one that was showing its best a few years ago. Perhaps a bit on the pricey side for its quality at 39,50€. (88 pts.)

  • 2014 Steenberg Sauvignon Blanc The Black Swan - South Africa, Coastal Region, Cape Peninsula, Constantia (26.7.2020)
    Medium-deep lemon yellow color. Quite vegetal and varietally correct nose with bell pepper-y aromas of pimientos de Padrón, some leafy greenness, light fruity notes of passion fruit, light asparagus notes, a hint of green peppercorns and a touch of cat’s pee. The wine is light-bodied, lively and quite crisp on the palate with varietally true flavors of ripe green apples, some green bell pepper, light vegetal notes of asparagus, light chopped chili tones, fruity hints of green gooseberries, passion fruit and lemon and a touch of honeyed sweetness. The overall feel is quite herbaceous but not underripe, with some sense of breadth and concentration without too much weight. High in acidity. Quite long, concentrated and somewhat grassy finish with a dry aftertaste of green apple, some lemony citrus fruit, a little bit of gooseberry, light notes of chili and green bell pepper, a hint of asparagus and a touch of crushed green peppercorns.

A balanced, structured and quite serious effort for a Sauvignon Blanc; the age seems to have granted the wine some richness and sense of concentration, boosting the sweeter fruit notes underneath the green herbaceous tones, but not making the wine feel particularly aged yet. Nevertheless, the wine is a bit too green and herbaceous for my taste - although the wine isn’t excessively vegetal and weedy, I prefer my Sauvignon Blancs show a bit less greenness and more fruit and ripeness. Quite good for what it is and perhaps a top-notch wine for people, who prefer their SBs green and grassy. Priced somewhat according to its quality at 20€. (87 pts.)

  • 2018 Rall Grenache Blanc - South Africa, Olifants River, Citrusdal, Piekenierskloof (26.7.2020)
    Old vines from Piekenierskloof. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts. 20% of the wine has fermented with the skins to increase complexity. Aged in concrete tanks and clay amphorae. Total production 4400 bottles. 12% alcohol.

Rather pale and colorless whitish-yellow color. Youthful and somewhat Northern-Rhône-ish nose with aromas of golden apples, some sappy herbal notes, light stony mineral notes, a little bit of floral spices, a hint of white peach and a sweet candied touch of gummi bears. The wine is juicy, medium-bodied and pleasantly balanced on the palate with flavors of ripe red apples, some white peach, a little bit of savory spices, light herbal notes of Roussanne-ish spice, a hint of waxy funk and a touch of bayleaf. Moderately high acidity. The finish is dry, juicy and quite long with flavors of ripe golden apples, some herbal spice, a little bit of ripe white peach, light creamy notes suggesting oak aging and a succulent hint of nectarine.

An enjoyable, clean and balanced Grenache Blanc. As a fruity, youthful everyday white this is a solid performer, but it lacks some depth and potential to be something more serious - even though this wine was supposed to be a “more serious” example of Grenache Blanc. Sure, this was nice and balanced, not coming across as monotonous and blowzy as so many Southern Rhône Grenache Blancs, but to me, this still isn’t a wine to challenge the best Garnatxa Blancas of Terra Alta. A nice and thoroughly drinkable effort all the same; drinking nicely now and might pick some additional complexity if left to age. Perhaps a bit on the pricey side for its quality at 19,20€, though. (89 pts.)

  • 2017 Vuurberg White - South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch (26.7.2020)
    A blend of Chenin Blanc (39%), Viognier (15%), Semillon (15%), Verdelho (12%), Roussanne (8%), Grenache Blanc (7%) and Chardonnay (2%). Wild fermented, aged in a combination of barriques and 400-l demi-muids (75% of the barrels were used, 25% new) 13,5% alcohol.

Quite youthful, pale lime-green color. Somewhat restrained, freshly-fruited and subtly reductive nose at first, then slowly opening up to reveal aromas of fresh red apples, some pear, light waxy tones, a little bit of smoke, a vegetal hint of leafy greenness and a touch of tomato stalk. The wine is broad, somewhat oily and moderately full-bodied on the palate with quite intense flavors of apricots, some sweet oak spice, light creamy tones, a little bit of sweet nectarine, a hint of juicy golden apples and a sappy touch of herbal spice. The moderately high acidity keeps the wine nicely in balance and lends a little bit of freshness to the overall feel as well. The moderately long finish is ripe, juicy and slightly warm with intense flavors of sweet peaches and golden apples, some toasty notes of oak, light creamy tones, a little bit of grassy herbal character, a hint of exotic spices and a touch of cantaloupe.

Although the wine exhibited some obviously oaky qualities, the woodier notes never once dominated the wine and the overall feel remained enjoyably balanced and quite fresh despite all the ripeness and wood. There is certainly quite a bit of richness and power here, but not without sense of harmony and precision. As a whole the wine felt very youthful and perhaps slightly disjointed, but there is quite a bit of potential here nevertheless. Most likely the wine just needs another 2-5 years in a cellar to get its game together. Good stuff already now, but going to be better with some age. Good value at 18€. (91 pts.)

  • 2018 Mullineux Chenin Blanc Granite - South Africa, Coastal Region, Swartland (26.7.2020)
    Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in oak, aged for 11 months in barrels of 3rd and 4th use. 14% alcohol, 2,1 g/l residual sugar, 5,4 g/l acidity and pH 3,32. Total production 5400 btls

Pale lemon-yellow color. Deep, concentrated and somewhat brooding nose with intense and pretty attractive aromas of clover honey, some ripe red apple, light sappy notes of birch leaves, a little bit of lovely creaminess and fruity hints of cantaloupe, juicy white peach and clementine. The wine is intense, concentrated and moderately full-bodied on the palate with ripe flavors of juicy yellow stone fruits, red apples, some pineapple, a little bit of sweet exotic spice, light creamy oak tones, rich hints of beeswax and honey and a touch of nutty complexity. The moderately high acidity keeps the wine nicely in balance, although the wine isn’t as racy and precise as its Loire counterparts; nevertheless, the overall feel is very harmonious and pleasant. The finish is juicy, concentrated and quite lengthy with rich flavors of pineapple, sweet golden apples, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light nutty tones and a hint of savory wood.

A beautiful, impressively concentrated and still remarkably fresh and concentrated Chenin with lots of layers and nuance: ripe fruit, balanced acid structure, honeyed richness, creamy oak notes, subtle nuttiness. The wine feels very impressive already this young, but I can imagine it will not only keep but also improve for at least a handful of years more. Not perhaps built for the really long haul, but it doesn’t matter since the wine is so lovely right now. Great value at 16,20€. (93 pts.)

  • 2001 Morgenster Lourens River Valley - South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch (26.7.2020)
    A blend of Merlot (55%), Cabernet Sauvignon (40%) and Cabernet Franc (5%). 14,5% alcohol, 2,5 g/l residual sugar, 5,6 g/l acidity and pH 3,6.

Deep and dark, only very slightly translucent pomegranate color with an evolved mahogany robe and a pale, almost clear rim. Very developed, rather savory and somewhat oxidative nose with aromas of beef jerky, smoky chipotle, some oxidative notes of soy sauce, light herbaceous notes of cooked bell pepper, a little bit of raisin, a sweet hint of ripe blackcurrants and a touch of leafy greenness. The wine is aged, tertiary and surprisingly intense on the palate with a medium body and flavors that feel pretty savory but also quite ripe and sweet-toned at the same time. Somewhat oxidative notes of beef jerky, some raisiny dark fruit, light smoky notes of chipotle, a little bit of wizened blackcurrants, an umami hint of soy sauce and a touch of blood. The overall feel is pretty balanced with the moderately high acidity and quite resolved medium tannins that slowly pile up on the gums. The finish is long, savory and somewhat warm with quite dry flavors of meaty umami, beef jerky, some sanguine iron, a little bit of raisin, light notes of chipotle, an evolved hint of wizened blackcurrants and a touch of earth.

A quite aged Bordeaux blend and perhaps slightly past its peak with its somewhat oxidative qualities - yet the wine manages to offer quite a bit of pleasure for the style, coming across as not unlike a soft, warm-vintage Bordeaux with some age. Although not the flagship wine of the Morgenster estate, I was positively surprised how well the wine was performing at almost 20 years of age. Although the wine might’ve been performing a bit better some years ago, it is still pretty great and at 19€ offers terrific value for the money. Better to drink up sooner rather than later, though. (90 pts.)

  • 2003 Morgenster Lourens River Valley - South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch (26.7.2020)
    A blend of Merlot (70%), Cabernet Sauvignon (20%) and Cabernet Franc (10%). Aged for 13 months in 300-liter oak barrels. 14% alcohol, 2,4 g/l residual sugar, 6,3 g/l acidity and pH 3,58.

Surprisingly dark and extracted, almost completely opaque pomegranate color with an evolved mahogany hue and a lighter, pale red rim. Somewhat oxidative and slightly underwhelming nose with evolved aromas of sweet raisiny fruit, some soy sauce, light sweet notes of lifted VA, a little bit of dry leather, a hint of dried dates and a touch of hoi sin. The wine is ripe, somewhat sweet-toned and quite full-bodied on the palate with evolved flavors of wizened dark plums, some dried dates, light raisiny tones, a little bit of bittersweet dark chocolate, a hint of beef jerky and a lifted, liqueurish touch of VA. However, with some air the taste turns more aged and oxidative with more pronounced notes of soy sauce and nuttiness. The overall feel is soft and silky with the medium acidity and rather resolved yet still quite firm and textural tannins. The finish is juicy, somewhat warm and quite long with a little bit of tannic grip and quite developed flavors of prunes, some soy sauce, a little bit of beef jerky, light peppery notes of savory spices, a smoky, slightly herbaceous hint of chipotle and a touch of old, cracking leather.

At first the wine was a quite enjoyable, old and evolved new world red, but it didn’t take long (only some minutes) before the wine started to fall apart and exhibiting more tertiary and rather oxidative flavors that didn’t come through in the first few sips. The wine is still drinkable, but obviously has been on a downhill for some years now. Not going to get any better with extended cellaring. Time to drink up. Priced somewhat according to its quality at 19€. (86 pts.)

  • 2005 Morgenster Lourens River Valley - South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch (26.7.2020)
    A blend of Merlot (60%), Cabernet Sauvignon (17%), Cabernet Franc (16%) and Petit Verdot (7%) from Helderberg. 14,5% alcohol, <2.5 g/l residual sugar, 5,85 g/l acidity and pH 3,6. Aged for 15 months in 300-liter oak barrels (1/3 new, 1/3 second fill, 1/3 third fill).

Deep and slightly translucent pomegranate red color with a pale red rim. Dry, savory and somewhat earthy nose with developed aromas of chipotle, some ripe blackcurrants, a little bit of wizened red plums, light notes of blackberry jam and a hint of leather. The wine feels rich, developed and full-bodied on the palate with ripe, complex and somewhat sweet-toned flavors of blackcurrant jam, juicy dark plums, some tobacco, light leather notes, a little bit of cooked bell pepper, autumnal hints of leaves and sous-bois and a lifted touch of sweet, balsamic VA. The overall feel is nicely balanced with the moderately high acidity and powdery, soft and only gently grippy tannins. The finish is long, savory and slightly oxidative with layered flavors of juicy dark plums, some leather, light gamey notes, a little bit of sanguine iron, hints of earth and damp leaves and a touch of peppery spice.

A very lovely, harmonious and balanced South African red. Doesn’t feel young anymore, but fortunately doesn’t seem to be going on downhill either. Very pleasant and tasty and in a really good shape for a 15 yo new world wine. Seems like a rather ripe and fruit-forward wine from a warm region, but made more in a classic old world style. I’d wager the wine is not going to develop anywhere from here, so best if drunk sooner rather than later. Terrific value at 19€. (92 pts.)

  • 2001 Morgenster - South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch (26.7.2020)
    A blend of Merlot (45%), Cabernet Sauvignon (28%) and Cabernet Franc (27%) from Helderberg. Aged for 16 months in 300-liter barrels (32% new, 38% second fill and 30% third fill). 14,5% alcohol, 2,5 g/l residual sugar, 5,6 g/l acidity and pH 3,55.

Developed, very deep and almost fully opaque black-red color with a matured mahogany hue. Quite old and tertiary nose with aromas of oxidative soy sauce and beef jerky, some leafy herbaceous notes, a little bit of wizened blackcurrants, light raisiny tones and a hint of old furniture. The wine is intense, medium-to-moderately full-bodied and quite sinewy on the palate with flavors that feel much younger than what the nose promised: notes of ripe blackcurrants, some toasty oak spice, a little bit of pruney dark fruit, light nuances of leather and tobacco, a juicy hint of black cherries and a touch of spicy bitterness. The overall feel is very balanced and quite structured with the moderately high acidity and quite ripe, textural and almost fully resolved powdery tannins. The finish is rather warm, slightly grippy and quite ripe with a very long and slightly sweet-toned aftertaste of wizened dark plums, meaty umami, some juicy blackcurrants, light black cherry tones, a little bit of tobacco and a hint of sanguine iron.

A very fine, wonderfully evolved and impressive South African red. The nose feels much more evolved than how the wine tasted like and had I judged the wine on the nose alone, I would’ve said this is already past its peak - which it certainly isn’t. All in all, a lovely and very enjoyable Bordeaux blend that straddles between a classic, structured and savory old world red and a more modern, weightier and fruit-driven now world red. The only thing that bothered me a bit was the relatively high alcohol here, otherwise this was pretty terrific stuff. Good value at 36€. (93 pts.)

  • 2003 Morgenster - South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch (26.7.2020)
    A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (39%), Cabernet Franc (31%) and Merlot (30%) from Helderberg. Aged for 13 months in 300-liter oak barrels (90% new). 13,5% alcohol, <2,5 g/l residual sugar, 5,9 g/l acidity and pH 3,65.

Somewhat translucent and slightly evolved dark cherry red color. Savory, somewhat evolved nose with an air of a classic Bordeaux. Attractive aromas of wizened blackcurrants, some woody notes of pencil shavings, light beef jerky tones, a little bit of tobacco, herbaceous hints of bell pepper and chipotle and an autumnal touch of leaves. The wine is somewhat lighter and drier than Morgensters 2001 and 2008 tasted alongside, but not one bit less impressive. Quite intense and wonderfully layered flavors of ripe blackcurrants, cooked bell pepper, some tobacco, a little bit of brambly black raspberry, light woody notes of pencil shavings, a hint of gamey meat and a bittersweet touch of dark chocolate. The structure relies more on the high acidity than on the almost-fully resolved, silky tannins. The finish is long, complex and gently grippy with dry, savory flavors of black raspberries, some sweeter dark plums, a little bit of sweet blackcurrant marmalade, light woody notes of pencil shavings, a hint of pipe tobacco and a touch of bell pepper.

A beautiful, harmonious and very classic South African red. There’s quite a bit of ripeness here, but the wine is nevertheless remarkably savory, fine-tuned and all in all thoroughly Bordelais in feel. Although I would’ve enjoyed a bit more tannic action here, the wine is nevertheless wonderfully balanced with layers upon layers of flavors. I love it how the wine has a somewhat new world feel to it, yet is more dry than sweet-toned, has quite modest level of alcohol for the style and especially the nose could fool one into believing this is a classic Bordeaux red. Most likely the wine will not just keep, but also improve for a few years more, but it is drinking beautifully right now and is in no need of further aging. A bargain at 36€. Outstanding stuff. (94 pts.)

  • 2008 Morgenster - South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch (26.7.2020)
    A blend of Merlot (36%), Cabernet Franc (33%), Cabernet Sauvignon (19%) and Petit Verdot (12%). Aged for 15 months in 300-liter oak barrels. 14,7% alcohol, 2,1 g/l residual sugar, 5,4 g/l acidity and pH 3,74.

Deep and only very slightly translucent dark cherry red color. Still rather youthful and quite fruit-forward nose with aromas of juicy dark plums, some ripe blackcurrants, light green notes of parsley and anise, a little bit of savory wood spice, a hint of tobacco and a touch of campfire smoke. The wine is ripe, concentrated and moderately full-bodied yet not particularly big on the palate with intense flavors of ripe dark plums, juicy blackcurrants, some cedary oak spice, light sooty notes of toasted wood, a little bit of tobacco, a developed hint of raisiny fruit and a touch of minty herbal greenness. The overall feel is very juicy, silky and somewhat sweet-toned but still quite well-proportioned and not overdone. Moderately good balance with the medium+ acidity and firm, quite assertive and pretty grippy tannins. The finish is long, moderately grippy and quite warm with rich and intense flavors of ripe blackcurrants, some sweeter dark plums, light notes of tobacco, a little bit of mocha oak, an umami hint of savory meatiness and a touch of pipe tobacco.

A good, but also rather ripe, somewhat soft and moderately oaky South African red that isn’t overdone, but leaning a bit on the voluptuous new world direction. I don’t know if it’s just the age difference, or if there is a stylistic difference as well, but this feels somewhat softer, sweeter-fruited and more polished than the vintages 2001 and 2003 that were tasted alongside. This seems to lack the thrill and very Bordeaux-like finesse the older two vintages showed. I hope this wine will turn more impressive with age, at least it shows good potential for future development. I’d say this is peaking in 7-10 years. Priced somewhat according to its quality at 36€. (90 pts.)

Posted from CellarTracker

Interesting

I had an interesting panel of South-african wines in 2018 :
_Swartland - Syrah - Mullineux « Schist Syrah Roundstone» 2013 :
Nez empyreumatique, légèrement boisé. Odeurs de cassis, bacon, réglisse, un peu comme si on était en présence d’un Crozes-Hermitage de Graillot. Longueur satisfaisante (16/20)

Swartland - White blend - Mullineux 2015 :
(74% Chenin Blanc, 12% Clairette Blanche, 6% Viognier, 4% Sémillon Gris, 4% Grenache Blanc)
Un vin bloqué par le soufre, probablement, qui ne raconte pas grand-chose (13/20 ?)

The best ones were, from far, and without surprise :
12. Stellenbosch - Red blend - Kanonkop « Paul Sauer » 2005
(70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet franc, 15% Merlot)
Arômes racés rappelant ceux que l’on peut trouver dans les plus belles expressions de Pessac-Léognan (cassis, bouquet garni, tabac noble, cèdre, santal, …). Matière de grande classe, à la fois dense et fine, restant longuement en bouche. Le départ d’évolution pourrait faire pencher pour Haut-Brion 2003 (18/20, a great wine)

32. Constantia -Klein Constantia « Vin de Constance » 2011
(Muscat à Petit Grains)
On retrouve ici avec bonheur le grand muscat africain, naturellement doux, confirmant son prestige. Raffinements aromatique et tactile. Parfums précis (abricot, lavande, thym) pour une trame longuement savoureuse, qui charme tout le monde (18/20).
_

I’ve yet to taste the better end wines of Kanonkop, but I haven’t been thrilled by the lower-tier wines of the winery.

Based on my handful of experiences with Mullineux, they seem to be doing really wonderful stuff. Hard to say what might’ve been with the one that you had - the one Mullineux White I’ve had was terrific.

Vin de Constance is always a treat.

Nice notes! Ken Forrester is one of my go-tos for SA white - his regular OVR that you had is great value for a quality everyday wine, but I’ve always had it really young because I figure the freshness and vibrancy is what I’m after. Had the 2019(!) last month.

If you’ve ever had his FMC bottling, it’s a much more complex and layered cuvée that is really beguiling.

Thank you!

Actually, I’ve had both OVR and FMC as their younger iterations a year ago:

  • 2018 Ken Forrester Chenin Blanc Old Vine Reserve - South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch (10.9.2019)
    From a vineyard planted in 1974. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts. Aged for 9 months in stainless steel (50%) and 300-liter French oak barrels of 2nd and 3rd use (50%). 13,5% alcohol, 2,2 g/l residual sugar, 5,9 g/l acidity, pH 3,38.

Medium-deep yellow-green color. Quite expressive nose with aromas of ripe white fruits, some juicy red apples, a little bit of creamy richness, light toasty oak notes and a hint of savory spices. The wine is medium-bodied and nuanced on the palate with layered flavors of fresh red apples, some quince, a little bit of apple peel bitterness, light creamy notes of oak, a hint of woody spice and a touch of chopped almonds. Moderately high acidity keeps the wine nicely in balance. The finish is long, refreshing and somewhat spicy with flavors of red apple, some quince, a little bit of oaky creaminess, light nutty tones and a hint of stony minerality.

A very balanced and well-made Chenin Blanc with lots of nuance and great freshness. Nothing too flashy, but Chenin Blanc rarely is. Perhaps the wine is lacking a bit of that special something that would make it distinctive and memorable, which keeps the wine from getting point-wise into the 90’s. However, with some age the wine could develop some welcome depth and complexity. All in all, a nice, serious Chenin. (89 pts.)

  • 2018 Ken Forrester Chenin Blanc The FMC - South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch (10.9.2019)
    The name stands for “Forrester Meinert Chenin”. From a low-yielding vineyard planted in 1974. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts. Aged for 12 months in French oak barrels (30% new, 70% 2nd fill). 13% alcohol, 7,6 g/l residual sugar, 6,2 g/l acidity, pH 3,34.

Medium-deep yellow-green color. Creamy and complex nose with layered aromas of white peach, some sour apple candies, a little bit of toasty oak spice, light smoky notes, a hint of honeydew melon and a touch of wizened stone fruits. The wine is broad yet firm and structured on the palate with medium body and rich flavors of ripe golden apples, some creamy oak, a little bit of apricot, light toasty tones, a hint of pineapple and a touch of sweet caramel oak. The rather high acidity keeps the wine nicely in balance and lends it nice sense of freshness. The finish is spicy, slightly woody and long with flavors of toasty oak spice, some creaminess, a little bit of red apple, light peachy tones, a hint of pineapple and a touch of vanilla.

A complex, fresh and balanced Chenin Blanc with a lot of depth and intensity. The oak feels quite prominent and perhaps slightly awkward here, but the wine still exudes finesse; it is still all too young for its own good and I have no doubts that the oak will integrate with the fruit if given enough time. For immediate consumption the wine is a bit too oaky for my taste, but there’s tons of promise for future development. Let the wine wait and expect the score to go up with age. (91 pts.)

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