Bel Air Marquis d'Aligre 2003

I bought this recently out of curiosity, after a rec by David Zajac on Vinous. I was not particularly optimistic - all Margaux 2003 I’ve tasted have been awful, some truly atrocious, but I was interested to see how Monsieur Boyer had got on. Well, as usual, he did a pretty fine job.

The colour is a little darker than usual, the nose also different - more peppery, with notes of violets and plums amid the blackcurrant. What really changes however is the taste.

Twenty-odd years ago, I had the privilege of having dinner with Anthony Barton. He was on fine form, regaling the table with witty anecdotes - then he got onto the subject of wine critics and more specifically, their descriptions of wines. I’m paraphrasing from memory but it went something like this:

“Give me Broadbent any day - these new ones write total poppycock - it’s a bloody wine, for goodness sake, not a fruit salad!”

I think he had a point (ouch!) but in the case of BAMA 2003 it really is a bit of a fruit salad. The attack is quite rich, but with none of the burnt flavours found elsewhere. The first surprise is the freshness of the fruit, the like of which I have never tasted in any 2003 from any part of Bordeaux. First up is the blackcurrant, very round and plump, then some rather spicy violet and plum, before just a hint of rosehip syrup, some blackberry, a wave of raspberry, a touch of wild strawberry, then a typical BAMA dusty finish. It’s not overripe, not syrupy, not even recognisable as a 2003. The fruit is spicier than usual, like Prieuré-Lichine but with more finesse and elegance.

Compared to a “normal” BAMA, it’s a little more concentrated, a little more grippy, a little less long, but perhaps this will change with a few more years, because it tastes remarkably fresh and young. I suspect he changed the blend, with a lot more Petit Verdot and Malbec.

It’s not my favourite BAMA, but I loved it and I shall certainly buy some more, not least to include a couple in one of my daughters’ birth year collection, because it shows no sign of age whatsoever.

Great stuff, Julian. I would not even have thought to buy the 2003.

Love that Barton quote!

Thanks Robert! Well, this is one 2003 that you would enjoy - because it’s so atypical. It puts so many others to shame. BAMA’s pricing is as weird as always, but this one is in the second price band, at 39€ over here, which is very fair for the quality and well worth trying.

I had this the other day as well. While BAMA’s rep is for needing tons of air, this was one of those wines that seemed to show most of what it had right away, then closed in on itself a bit before opening again in a fruitier way. That gives me the sense it’ll be better in a few years still. But I really liked the wine & agree with you on the blacker-than-usual fruit complexion as well as the total absence of anything to give it away as a 2003.

Great description, Julian!

Given the infamous heat across the continent in 2003, I’m curious what other wines you have in your daughter’s birth year collection?

I bought my first BAMAs recently, 2010s. I assume those need many years before I should open them? I don’t mind waiting.

Wait a decade if you can bring yourself to… not that they don’t actually drink quite well young, more that it’s a finite resource. Once it’s over, it’s over, and 2010s drunk up young are just not going to be easily replaceable.

Thanks for chiming in, everyone!

Glad you liked it too, Keith. Last night I finished the bottle - it had calmed down a bit, but out of curiosity I opened a 2004 to compare. They’re quite similar, actually, but I preferred the fruitier 2003. Having said that, the 2004 is a lovely wine too - by far the best 04 from Margaux I’ve had. Both wines have that inimitable suave finesse so often lacking elsewhere.

I do wonder whether the 2003 is only made of wine from 2003. I’ve never heard of a 2002 and the freshness of the fruit is a little too good to be true. I think they’re allowed to blend 15% of other vintages but it tastes like more. For me, it’s not a problem - nearly all Bordeaux are blends anyway.

Vince - thanks, the other wines I have found are mostly Sauternes/Barsac, a few sweet Vouvrays, Pichon Baron, the three Leovilles, Duhart, Pontet-C plus both Sociando-M and the Cuvée Jean Gautreau.

Chris - I confirm what William says - I had one a year or two ago and it was quite nice but it just wasn’t ready.

While I agree with the general sentiment around 03 Margaux AOC wines…I’ve had great luck with 03 Kirwan. My examples have been really good, inexplicably. Maybe their beefier style was able to deal with high heat and low acid of that year.

Thanks for the update on the BAMA

April 2010 - BAMA verticale :
2. Margaux : Château Bel Air-Marquis d’Aligre Grand Cru Exceptionnel 2003 – 12,5°
_* L’après-midi : DS15,5+ – PR15,5 – CD15,5 (report by Philippe Ricard)
Parure très proche de la précédente (rubis, moyennement sombre, plutôt terne), avec peut-être une très légère inclinaison orangée en bordure.
Une des expressions les plus immédiates et généreuses de la série… Griotte un peu confite, fraise écrasée, figue, marmelade, pointe de chocolat, une maturité qui a pris quelque peu ses aises, mais sans vulgarité. Nous sommes par contre loin de Bordeaux, entre évocation de grenache (on parle de Rayas…) ou de pinot très mûr.
La matière a sans aucun doute capté la maturité du millésime, mais sans ses excès… Plus ronde, plus riche, plus gourmande, elle semble irrésistible, aidée par un regain de fraîcheur (la force du cabernet ?) dans une finale sur le menthol, voire l’eucalyptus ; l’aération révèle par contre une pointe de sécheresse.

• Le soir : DS16 – PC16 – LG15,5 – MS16 – PM16 (report by Laurent Gibet)
  Couleur un peu plus soutenue.
  Nez mûr, riche, figué (mais sans excès), bien plus expressif : confiture de fraises, gelée de cassis, herbes aromatiques, viande rôtie, soupçon de champignon.
  Matière plus charnue, prenant des formes, avec des tannins un peu plus présents, en même temps. Lui laisser du temps pour s’affiner._

Time should tell … for this opulent approach … on a controversial vintage.

Arv - I must say that really is a surprise! I shall look out for a bottle to try.

Laurent - thanks, that’s very interesting - and totally unlike the bottle I tasted! Ten years has apparently turned it into something else - I wouldn’t describe it as particularly opulent now. Perhaps there were more than one blend?

Julian,

Wine analysis is not a deterministic process … It’s also why I particularly like it …

Very interesting, Arv. I really like the style of Kirwan…
As for 2003 Margaux wines, I’ve had excellent bottles of Ferrière and La Tour de Mons. The La Tour de Mons is not quite as subtle as the Ferrière, but very enjoyable nonetheless. Both wines unbeatable value for money.


Thanks for the wonderful note, Julian!

Ferriere is really underrated. Dings very high on the comfort wine meter.