My project, In search of wines from Burt Williams` proteges and wines made from some of his vineyard designates {VDs}, continues.
Since Burt Williams passed last December and my stash of his wines has started to dwindle, I`ve been checking out wines made by some of the people who worked under him during the time he crafted legendary wines from 1983-1997 under the Williams Selyem label.
Over many of the years of our friendship, Burt mentioned some to me and I’ve met a few of them. The one I know well and am closest to is his daughter Margi, Brogan Cellars. Burts son Fred, Seven Lions, passed before I had a chance to get to know him. Also, Chris Whitcraft of Whitcraft Winery was a very good friend of mine as well as Burts and I have had and still have a lot of his wines that were indeed, made in Burt`s style as well as some were sourced from vineyards that Burt used.
Im familiar with and love the wines from Fred and Margi and have some although they are becoming more difficult to replace as Fred passed in 03 and Margi has cut way back and has made very few wines of late.
I’ve also been seeking wines made from vineyards Burt designated such as Rochioli, Precious Mountain, Hirsch, Summa, Coastlands and others.
So, I`ve been on the hunt and posted some notes on many wines looking for those brightest shinning stars.
During many stays at Burt`s ranch in Anderson Valley, Morning Dew Ranch, we would sit outside on the upstairs deck and admire his iconic vineyard below as well as the magnificent views of the surrounding areas including Anderson Valley and a few other vineyards situated higher up on the mountains behind his home. One of these was owned by Ted Lemon of Littorai and Burt had nothing but special praise and respect for him.
Ted made some Pinot Noir from Summa Vineyard on the Sonoma Coast and it was Burts 1995 Summa, 3 times in magnum, that still occupies a top 5 ever wine for me. As such, it served to be the motivator for acquiring some from Rivers Marie and Littorai. i recently found from 02 and 03 from the latter and here’s some notes on the 03:
2003 LITTORAI SUMMA VINEYARD SONOMA COAST PINOT NOIR- this was a wowzer from the get go with a deep, dark, vibrant pure red burgundy color and a nose that generously offered charming, spicy red and black fruit; on the palate came black raspberry, red and black cherry, blueberry and plum with an extended steak of the spice and a hint of cinnamon; it was rich and full bodied and delivered in a lush, almost creamy textured medium that carried all of the goodies to the back end where everything just held on for a long, sustained glorious finish; the complexity, depth and balance were also hallmarks. This is must decant wine as loads of sediment fell out.
Thus far in this search, the standout producers include Brogan Cellars, Seven Lions, Whitcraft, Woodenhead, Papapietro and Cobb with Rivers Marie and Littorai contributing great VDs from Summa.
Cheers,
Blake
