Our dinner group safely met on the outdoor patio lawn of one of our favorite local restaurants, Convivo, which is located just a few yards back from the beach.
Our wine theme was champagnes, white Burgs, Super Tuscans and Brunellos although one brought a Barolo from Clerico and we unanimously expanded our preferences.
I took the 3rd of 3 potentially great champagnes I purchased recently in hopes of discovering some viable bottles and obtaining more, but the 85 Cristal Rose was severely oxidized and the 86 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rose was undrinkable thus my hopes for the 82` Salon was not all that high; nonetheless, in the wine bag. I took a dependable backup just in case.
1982 SALON CUVEE S LE MESNIL BLANC de BLANC- when I first looked at this bottle at the time of purchase, there was no sign of leakage, cork push or any indication that it was flawed or had been mishandled; however, the cork split in half when pulled and there were no bubbles, the first clues that is was not good; once poured, the browning amber color confirmed we had some issues; the nose and taste were proof this was severely oxidized to the point that it could be labeled an Amontallado with an emphasis on almonds and hazelnuts; for some, that may be pleasing, but I’m not a fan nor were the others at the table.
The dependable backup:
2006 DOM RUINART BLANC de BLANC BRUT- disgorged 12/ 2016 with 4.5 gpl dosage; comprised of Chardonnay Grands Crus: 63% from the Côte des Blancs (predominantly Chouilly, Le Mesnil and Avize) and 37% from the northern slope of the Montagne de Reims (predominantly Sillery and Puisieulx); this bottle was consistent with previous bottles from the same batch; there is a sense of royalty in the nose with inviting aromas of spicy citrus which on the palate turns out to include lemon, apple and white nectarine; it has body and a luscious mousse, amazing balance and bright acidity; it’s all I ever desire in a champagne and exudes class along with its charming elegance.
And another winner:
2006 DOM PERIGNON- I’ve had many a bottle of this vintage and enjoyed every one, but none as much as this one; following the Dom Ruinart, it held its own and even presented a distinguished profile that placed it on its own pedestal; the hallmark was its balance and elegance; lovely fresh citrus fruit prevailed in the aromatics and taste along with its bright acidity, creamy mousse, richness and yes, that statement of class and elegance; the steady stream of pleasurable nuances from the nose through the tail generated high praise throughout the evening.
Next up, a fabulous Gruner:
2016 PRAGER SMARAGD ZWERITHALER KAMMERGUT GRUNER VETLINER- this had amazing appeal with nice minerality throughout plus a touch of flint at the outset and mellow citrus, apple and pear fruit coming in and staying the course throughout the finish; the one who brought it stated the fruit was sourced from 100 year old vines which provided a paradox as it was very young, vibrant and refreshing; lovely Gruner here.
2015 DINO FONTODI COLLI TOSCANA CENTRALE- 100% Sangiovese, owned and farmed organically by the Manetti family; following a super inviting nose, this showed beautifully with loads of dark red fruit with black currant and blackberry most prevalent; it was full bodied with a viscous texture and had perfect length to extend the pleasure of having this in the glass.
2004 LA FLORITA BRUNELLO di MONTALCINO RISERVA- this was nicely mature with dried plum, blueberry and black cherry fruit accented with mild leather and earthy notes; it was full bodied with lots of complexity and depth; some mustiness blew off after a few minutes and suggested it would have been good to have been decanted.
We had another Brunello, an 1999 CASTELGIOCONCO BRUNELLO di MONTALCINO,
that was badly flawed, but there’s one more wine to go and it might be the WOTN if either of the 2 06` champagnes were not:
1989 DOMENICO CLERICO CIABOT MENTIN GINESTRA BAROLO- its inky dark color suggested something very serious here and it was from the nose through the tail; with aromas of dark fruit and leather, tobacco and earth, it moved into more mature black currant and black cherry with cedar the main accent on the palate; it was nicely balanced, full bodied and had layered complexity; pretty solid tannic structure was noticed by a touch of astringency at the end, but it should support longevity and hopefully dissipate.
During this time of the pandemic, our dinner group size averages about 5- 7 people which actually allows for all to have an entire table involved conversation which usually is all about wine, in other words, positive subject matter at a time when that can be challenging.
Cheers,
Blake
