NV Vilmart Grande Reserve Champagne (from 375ml), disgorged 3/19 –
This is both fine and really unusual… I’ve never had a Champagne quite like it. The aromas combine both fresh and yeasty character, but are characterized by an unusual green streak. This would normally be a negative, but it’s not! The green character is integrated with mostly white fruit (with a touch of red), distinctive earthiness and a mineral hint. It starts with grass, moves to sage and ends up like a Provençal bouquet garni. This carries seamlessly into the flavors, giving an intensity and vigor that stop short of being aggressive. I had this on its own, but now really want to try it with a green salad, green vegetables, anything to complement and enhance a strikingly flavorful bottle of bubbles. Rated 93, will certainly hold and probably improve in 750ml.
2004 Mount Eden Pinot Noir Santa Cruz Mountain Estate –
A great bottle of Pinot, my last of the vintage, opened by luck at peak.
This shows some bricking at the edges and the aromas confirm maturity. This is sheerly rich, almost lush on the palate with a big note of hardwood forest after rain, loaded with black cherry and red raspberry fruit, tender acidity keeps some youth, this is full of gentle vibrations, tannins resolved but there’s enough buzz from the acidity to keep it fresh, almost taut. The subtleties are beautiful, with minerality and earth intertwined and the hallmark Santa Cruz Mountain conifer now perfectly integrated. Rated 96.
Dan Kravitz