We donate about a half dozen wine tastings to various charities annually. 2020 put a stop to these until now, when we decided to host three couples outdoors on our deck. This tasting was won at the Bridgid Collins Center for Women and Children’s Annual Auction. We again chose some classic pairings; Champagne with caviar, Sauternes with foie gras, old Nebbiolo with truffles, CdP with lamb (maybe not a classic pairing but very good!), and Vintage Port with Stilton Cheese.
Pre-event preparation reward
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NV Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée Edition 168eme - France, Champagne
We drank a lot of champagne before it’s prime tonight, but opening this was more criminal than opening the others. It really needs a lot more time, even out of the .375. Marybeth and I were working our tails off preparing for this event, and I wanted a half bottle of something good as a reward. Delicious and enjoyable, it’s just not showing any of the Krug fireworks at the moment.
Arrival and Charcuterie
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2006 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut - France, Champagne
Again, a beautiful wine, after my first off bottle of this I’d had last week. Once again, the lush glycerin mouthfeel, ample stone fruit, orange cream and brioche. Broad shouldered enough to stand up to the charcuterie it accompanied. The wine of the night for many (I preferred the '09 Cristal). (95 pts.)
Cold Smoked Salmon
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2008 Dom Pérignon Champagne - France, Champagne
This has come out of its shell, although still very young. More mineraled and precise than the Comte, this has yeasty bready citrus, great cut and verve. Paired well with cold smoked sockeye salmon, shredded hard boiled eggs and capers. (94 pts.)
Caviar
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2009 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut - France, Champagne
My WOTN, although most preferred the '06 Comte. Showy for a young Cristal. A crescendo of flavors and aromas. Dense citrus including lemon, lime and tangerine, white flowers, less yeasty than the '08 Dom. Needs more time, but no harm in opening. Perfect pairing with Calvasius Oscietra caviar, served simply on fresh cucumber, and on toast point with creme fraiche and chopped onion. (96 pts.) -
NV Ployez-Jacquemart Champagne Extra Brut Rosé - France, Champagne
Sabered for show, this stood up well against the big boys. Crisp and clean, strawberry and orange, pink and fun. (91 pts.)
Foie Gras
Foie Gras served with a fig sweet balsamic reduction, with figs and candied orange peel
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2001 Château Suduiraut - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Really good with seared fresh Hudson Valley Farms foie gras. Perfect balance of sweetness and acidity, both which played well with the fatty treat. Very honeyed, with intoxicating apricot and exotic orange, pineapple. Suduiraut hit it out of the park in 2001. (94 pts.)
First white Alba truffles of the season
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1974 Antoniolo Gattinara - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Gattinara
While past prime, this was still a delight with Inaudi Tagliotini drenched in butter and Isole e Olena olive oil, with generous parmesan and the first white Alba truffles of the year. Light to medium copper colored, light bodiedold nebbiolo mushroom, leather and tar, subtle red fruit trying to survive a little while longer. I carefully decanted this into a broad decanter a couple of hours before serving. Birth year wine for a few of the guests. (90 pts.) -
NV Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Grand Cellier Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
I only got a quick sip, and as always, liked it a lot. I’m not sure the base vintage or disgorgement date.
Seared Lamb Chops
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1998 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
I don’t drink much CdP anymore, but I’ve always found the '98 vintage of VT to be special. This bottle was no exception. Red berries and cherries, garrigue, and showing similar summer spices and gaminess as the pan seared lamb chops it accompanied. (93 pts.) -
1985 Château Troplong Mondot - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
I expected this to be too advanced, but it drank really well. Secondary flavors completely dominated by sweet pipe tobacco, plus some baseball glove leather and plum, maybe blackberry. Probably in decline, but well worth drinking now. (91 pts.)
Stilton cheese and Blanxart Dark Chocolate with Marcona Almonds
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1994 Martinez Gassiot & Co. Porto Vintage Quinta da Eira Velha - Portugal, Douro, Porto
I tried not to disturb the sediment, and gently put it on it’s side on the decanting stand, but the brittle cork foiled my plans. I had to stand it up and successfully removed the remaining cork, but must have slightly shaken it in the process. I suspect it would have been better with less sediment in the suspension. It was proper but dull, especially for a 1994. Still, a nice drink with a creamy stilton cheese. -
1961 Domaine Singla Rivesaltes Ambré Héritage du Temps - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Rivesaltes
I was thinking of following the dull VP with a tawny or colheita, but this caught my eye. Really nice, it resembled a tawny port in color and character, even though it’s made from a white wine (grenache blanc?). It started with slight VA that quickly blew off. Sweet nutty flavors and aromas, with caramelized orange. I’m starting to like the subtle beauty of Rivesaltes. (92 pts.)
The end
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2012 Camille Savès Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée Anaïs Jolicoeur - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Didn’t try it; my wife requested more champagne… It disappeared quickly so must have been fine.
It was great to host another charitable and fun party. Nature cooperated; it was the first day in weeks we could see the Puget Sound after the smoke cleared, and the predicted rain didn’t start until everyone had already stood up to leave. We had great food and wine, a gorgeous sunset, and accomplished a generous donation from the attendees to a great charity.
