Will smoke ever become part of a region's terroir?

On the drive into the office today, the local NPR station did a quick story covering the concerns over smoke taint in the 2020 vintage in Washington. Among others, there were comments by Charlie Hoppes (Fidelitas) and Sean Sullivan (Washington Wine Report and Wine Enthusiast mag). Toward the end of the piece, a woman (whose name I didn’t know and I can’t recall, unfortunately) talked about how smoke from wild fires is likely going to be a consistent occurrence going forward due to climate change. I happen to agree, sadly. However, she also mentioned something to the effect that smoke is just going to become part of the terroir of some Washington regions.

What an interesting concept. If terroir is, “The complete natural environment in which a particular wine is produced, including factors such as the soil, topography, and climate,” it would seem to me that she might be onto something. If some degree of smoke is present in most growing years and it shows in some of the grapes, will smoke eventually be part of the terroir and not necessarily a flaw or taint? Obviously, that would be difficult to assert because a region’s (or vineyard’s) terroir is constant and consistent and, technically, smoke from wild fires isn’t.

I also wonder if vineyard managers and wine makers will develop an additive or technique that will limit / hide / diminish / combat the effect that smoke has on wine grapes instead. Rather than react when significant smoke shows up, just plan for it every year and be ready to proactively treat / protect the grapes (and wines?) from it.

Anyway, the snippet about smoke becoming part of Washington’s terroir was thought-provoking.

Interesting thought Brandon, have you heard anymore specifics on what the effects from the smoke will be on this vintage?

I think the answer is “no”

While it might be academically correct, if there is consistent smoke taint year in and year out, people are just going to stop farming grapes in Washington because it won’t be profitable.

TW

I agree with Tim. One could talk about phylloxera and frost as part of terroir as well. The question then is whether it creates a pleasant wine or not. If it does, then we will probably talk about it as part of the terroir. My guess is it won’t, and therefore we won’t.

  1. Mass Hysteria
  2. Uneducated guesses
  3. Lab mistakes
  4. Learning opportunities
  5. Winners and losers
  6. Regrets

All definitely true Brian, but Washington was certainly the least affected of the west coast regions so I’m curious of the level of concern there in particular.

Perhaps but, for argument’s sake, phylloxera and frost don’t directly affect a wine’s flavor or aroma like smoke potentially does. If there’s a certain degree of smoke each vintage…maybe? I obviously do get your point, but I’m feeling frisky.

They really didn’t get into that in the story. It was really only about the concerns that were popping up. I think the jury is still out.

Air from somewhere else as part of terroir… no.

A potential negative sensory component… yes.

I heard that same story. They had someone give a silver lining nod to smokiness being a positive for Syrah (Is that true? Perhaps include Liquid Smoke to the winemaker’s tool chest?) But whether you call it terroir or something else, I’d think it would have a big negative impact on WA wines. I’ve never tasted a smoke tainted wine, but based on the smoke taint tread, most everyone seems to view it negatively. Who is going to say, “Hey, let’s get a Washington Wine! I just love the taste of smoldering camp fire.”

I have been told biodynamic farming renders grapes immune to smoke taint.

Not sure if I am recalling correctly, but I have a memory of Marcus Goodfellow using the phrase “atmospheric terroir” which I thought PFF.

There’s a lot of talk about changing the laws and policies to enable a much better job to be done with preventative controlled burns. The smart approach to doing controlled burns proximate to vineyards is do them the part of the year they won’t effect the grapes.

Only if the fire lights on a moon day.

TW

[cheers.gif]

As is kindled in a cow horn full of manure.

How about designating an official National Gender Reveal Day, in January?

It’s already part of the terroir of Islay scotch.

Teutonic seems to have embraced it, with a series of smoke tainted “Rauchweins”.

https://teutonicwines.com/wineshop/2018-rauchwein-white-merlot/