2014 Brunello

During late Spring 2018 I tasted 2016, 2015, & 2014 Brunello di Montalcino from cask at Azienda Agricola Le Chiuse in Montosoli. Clearly the 2015 had more richness, and the 2016 had more harmony, balance. But the 2014 with the leaner, high tone profile was sappy and arguably the most delicious. Lorenzo Magnelli, the Great, Great Grandson of Ferruccio Biondi-Santi, who has tasted extensively from his Mother’s portion of the Biondi-Santi archives, mentioned that the irony is 2014 has more in common with traditional Brunello than most vintages of the last 30 years. Sure, execution, in general, has improved. However, the general temperament and character of the fruit from 2014 had more in common with 20th century wines. Amazing how the past is so quickly forgotten and not appreciated. The 2014 is gorgeous this eve especially if you love ripping acidity and traditional character.

I import Le Chiuse in the Netherlands and am now selling the 2015 vintage made by Lorenzo Magnelli. The 2014 was not an easy sell, giving the bad reputation of the critics but I certainly second your comment on leaner and delicious.

The real irony is that Biondi-Santi declassified their 2014.
They were not alone.

Correct. So did Soldera. It makes the commercial exercise easier(especially when wines cost as much as B-S and Soldera charge) as noted previously. And even more ironic is the Biondi-Santi family does not even own the majority of Biondi-Santi any longer. And that side of the family sold their portion of the family library of wines.

All of this really has nothing to do with the historical character of Brunello pre-climate change. When Fourrier says 2008 Burgundy reminds him of a vintage from the 1970s it may not be an up-sale for the overall quality of the wines, but it is a fascinating and unique perspective, or window, to the past with the benefit of current knowledge, technology, and execution.

Bravo! The Valiani and Magnelli families are great people and have a jewel with Le Chiuse. The 2016 from cask was gorgeous. The harmony and balance of the 2016 was remarkable.

Last night we enjoyed Produttori dei Barbaresco 2014, a vintage where Cru wines were not bottled and declassified into the Normale. And we drank Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino 2014, a vintage where Riserva was not bottled with the best lots from the smallest berries from the oldest vines were blended into the Normale. Drinking vintages the Press does not champion is absolutely delicious.

this isn’t true at all. Produttori absolutely made 2014 cru bottlings. 2014 was a much better vintage in Barbaresco because they pick earlier than Barolo and didn’t suffer the rain issues in the way Barolo did.

Plus, I don’t understand why you are comparing what was done in Piedmont vs Montalcino as obviously they are very different regions and grapes

Thank you for the correction. I did not purchase any Cru bottlings from Produttori from ‘14(must not have had space?) and incorrectly assumed none were produced. The Normale ‘14 is delicious. Thrilled we have more to drink. It will certainly benefit from some more bottle age, but is approachable enough with expectations in check. The comparison between regions was intended to simply point out that top level wines may be blended with lower level wine, and despite what the general consensus may be by critics for a region and vintage, or because another Producer decided to declassify the entire vintage, such a wine can transcend, or outperform, region/vintage. As has been said before sell 95 point wines and drink the 88 point wines. Of course, your mileage may vary.

Quick note- Soldera did end up bottling the 2014- but of course under the Sangiovese label they now use every vintage. I have not had a chance to try the wine yet, but I have heard it is quite good. It was not widely advertised in the US that I noticed- it almost seemed like we went right from 2013 to 2015. But I keep close watch on that wine since it can be hard to obtain- and I was able to get some 2014, though it was not available for very long.

Glad to hear your impressions of 2014. I am starting to think of it- broadly speaking in terms of Europe overall- as one of those vintages largely forgotten in the wake of two following blockbusters, but one that contains some seriously beautiful mid-term gems. Kind of like 2008 - a vintage I love in almost every major region.

At a WSPro glance, some of the base Brunellos I often buy (Lisini, Casanova Di Neri, Uccelliera, Il Poggione) are either maybe $5 cheaper than the 2015, or in one case (Neri) the 2014 was like $10 more.

The one exception I saw was Fuligni, where the 2015 seems to be receiving enormous praise and is like $30 more than the 2014.

I wouldn’t buy any 2014 without tasting first. We were there in 2014 during the harvest. The vintage wasn’t pretty, though it rallied a bit at the end. 2015 is a big step up and, if the rdM are any indication, I’m really looking forward to the 2016s.

Understood. I knew Soldera produced a wine from 2014, but it was declassified and not bottled as BdM. Your perspective regarding “seriously beautiful mid-term gems” is exactly how I view them as well. Maybe not vintages to purchase broadly, but not writing them off in entirety either. Read Mr. D’Agata’s review on Vinous, which encourages not missing the best wines especially those from North of Montalcino, which, not surprisingly, is where the Le Chiuse wine I referenced originates. I have yet to open our Baricci 2014, which originates entirely from Montosoli, and which Mr. D’Agata referred to it as “probably the 2014 Brunello of the vintage”. And the wine was very affordable in Brunello terms and especially in comparison to typical price tags for Soldera, Biondi Santi, Salvioni, etc.

I opened a bottle of 2014 Casanova Di Neri last month. It was very approachable. I found it modern leaning with more dark fruit notes than I would expect in a classic Brunello, but good depth, balance, and intensity. No reason to think it will not improve further, but it was enjoyable right now.

Well, technically (from Soldera’s website):

“Since 2013 (with the 2006 wine) the winery has labelled its products as Toscana IGT/IGP Soldera 100% Sangiovese dall Società Agricola Case Basse®.” (not Brunello).

Funny you say that about the 2014’s

I saw a Altesino Brunello for a decent price and grabbed one.
Haven’t had yet.
But I’m hopeful.