Wondering if anyone has had problems like this. I’ve had occasional leaks over the years with my split duct cooling unit, but they’ve been easily resolved (usually just a clogged draining pipe). Now there are two separate leaks, one above the unit where the pipe comes in from outside and one down on the floor near where it drains. The service company I’ve used basically wants to pull out the racks on that wall, essentially tearing it all apart because they say they can’t resolve it any other way.
A few questions: Anyone have problems like this? Any suggestions for resolution? Anyone have a recommendation for a service company in the DC area for a second opinion?
Bigger question - the unit is 12 years old. Is it time to consider replacing the whole system? I’m not sure how long it’s supposed to last and I don’t want a quick fix just to have more problems down the road.
Thanks for any thoughts or suggestions.
I can’t speak to a split wine cellar system (mine is passive) but the split systems are not much different than any other split system (the “Florida room” air conditioners). I imagine any group that services one can service another although direct experience with your particular model would always help. But the problems are usually the same: refrigerant level, leaks, condensate drainage, fans, and the compressor.
My folks live in Alexandria and use FH Furr. I’ve used Argent and Mann-Inn for HVAC maintenance in the past. No clue if they’ll service the wine units though but can’t hurt to ask.
Sounds like the in-room air handler unit is building up condensation that it can’t get out and is leaking at a place of convenience (either where the pan fills, maybe a kink or split in the drain tube). I’ve had issues where my main house AC/humidifier drain builds up sediment and the drain tube clogs. Backs up into the ducts when that happens.
The other leak sounds like leaking from outside through where the the refrigerant lines go through the wall. Tough to say without seeing your exact setup, but they may have to remove racks to plug the leak. Might be possible to do from outside and then fix the condensate line separately, but if all runs in-wall then there’s no other way to get to it.
Good luck.
I have ongoing leaks in my cellar, but they all involve the fact that every single bottle in my cellar has a hole in it. One leak after another.
I wonder if your drainage line is clogged for some reason and it is leaking because it cannot empty another way.
The bottles turn up empty, but there are no drips on the floor? I have the same problem.
Yeah–I continually have to replace the empty bottles.
Is this thread about leaking coolant/refrigerant, or is it about leaking/perspiring water?
Perhaps you should contact the producers about the bottle faults. I’ve repeatedly noticed that after careful removal of corks the bottles often turn up empty within a few hours. An extremely troubling flaw. I’ve written to some producers about this but they refuse to stand by their product. One had the temerity to suggest that if I purchased larger bottles it would address the issue. Maybe one of the attorneys on this board could help me build a case for suing the bottle manufacturers. I bet it’s a problem with the glass.
Appears to be just water. No evidence of a coolant leak.
I’d think a coolant leak would result more in the air not being cooled. Sounds like drainage and either clogged or not allowing water to drain fast enough so it backs up.
I have a ducted system, completely detached from the room making it easier to repair. I get water leaking however its exterior condensation from the air exchanger casing being in contact with warmer humid air an unfinished part of the basement. Its enough that I have a collection tray under that feeds in to the same drain. So, maybe just external condensation?
Jeff,
Does the condensate drain outside? I’m wondering if these two leaks are both on the condensate line – maybe a cut/partial clog out the outside wall and then it backs up to the unit where it builds up and leaks. If that’s the case, then the fix may be running a new condensate line to a different location and abandoning the existing one in place. That would require less demolition, if it’s possible. Or I may be picturing this layout all wrong.
Only other thing I can think of is if you are getting in-wall condensation at that point and it’s not a leak at all just a point where outside moist air is meeting the cold cellar air. Any form of hole in the insulation can let air movement happen. But if it’s been pretty solid for 12 years, I doubt that’s it unless something else changed (like a repair on an adjacent wall, running new electrical, etc).
I have a split system that occasionally (maybe every 2-3 years) the condensate drain clogs up.
Your drain line should be able to be disconnected from your drain pan, mine for instance has a short length of flexible clear hose that uses a stainless steel worm gear band to clamp onto the drain pan fitting.
I remove a portion of the insulation to get access to the clamp, loosen and disconnect the hose. Then I use a small air compressor to blow out the line with 100+ psi air. If it was really clogged up and is made of pvc you can use a funnel and pour a little household bleach in your drain line and then after letting it sit for a bit, blow it out again. You don’t want to put bleach in your drain pan as they are usually made of aluminum or steel.
I use a black electrical cable tie to close the insulation back up, and in the past I have reinsulated my entire drain line - you can get the flexible foam insulation at Home Depot.
I hate to keep beating a dead horse, but this why I’m always advocating for pressure treated lumber [to include pressure treated plywood], hardipanel [rather than sheetrock] and stainless-steel/double-dipped-galvanized fasteners [rather than generic pot metal fasteners which will quickly devolve into mushy lumps of rust].
When you introduce the temperature/humidity differential of a wine cellar into the heart of a wooden house, you’re laying down a welcome mat for water & mold & mildew & rot & termites & ants & cockroaches & silverfish and goodness only knows what other forms of nocturnal/subterranean yuckiness.
And so much of the heartache could be spared if you simply build the winecellar with exterior grade [“weatherized”] components from the get-go.
PS: Although lately I’ve been toying with the idea that the contractors are actually doing this on purpose, so that they can double bill you - once for the initial winecellar build, and then a second time for ripping out all the rot and rebuilding a new winecellar in its place.
Lots of causes for leaks (undercharged, bad capacitors/motors, clogged lines, double trapped, rusted drain pans, dirty filters, faulty humidifiers). Is the unit maintaining temp? why do they have to rip out the racks? Is the air handler accessible? What equipment do you have? Is the water leakage the only issue?