A Few Recent Tastes XXX

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Marc_Hanes
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A Few Recent Tastes XXX

#1 Post by Marc_Hanes » October 12th, 2020, 7:59 pm

1998 Mount Horrocks Riesling Clare Valley Cordon Cut. Washed out brown core, wide yellow rims, transparent on the whole with some haziness. There’s an initial plastic note to the nose before it’s all molasses, honey, candied orange peel, lanolin, pressed flowers, the fruit scents on the main fig, date, just dried fruit. Medium-bodied and comes off as having lost some muscle. Not that it’s flabby but the acidity is average and at this stage in the game not up to the task. Spicy, ginger, nutmeg, cinnamon before that molasses, caramelized brown sugar slathers the tongue. Green apple and pear flavors bring pep to the fig, date, yellow raisin flavors. Here the citrus feels more like tangerine to lime. Nutty through the finish. Bought at auction at the cork basically disintegrated so can’t speak to provenance, speaks more of dessert wine than Riesling per se. 375 ml bottle.

1998 Ridge Monte Bello. The liquid is squeaky clean, black turns to brick red and then a reddish orange, definitely looks its age. Needs time to blow up the initial peanut shell stank, then cedar, sage, dill, menthol, slight mutter of vanilla fudge but no real creamy oak presence, there’s a tightness in the red currant, cherry scents, somewhat faded but just as much suggests it needed more air before consumption. Medium-bodied, the tannin seems fully acceptable but the acidity wastes no time putting your palate in a vise. As a result it’s about as sour as you’ll ever see in a Monte Bello, plays up the dill in the residual oak. Still, not green as might be the case with 1998 north coast Cabernets. The cherry, Italian plum, boysenberry fruit retains flavor through the finish. It’s not a classic but by the same token it’s not a washout. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, 1% Cabernet Franc.

2009 Druet Bourgueil Grand Mont. Gauzy purple core, still showing some vigor, quite broad scarlet rims which in turn aren’t bricking just yet. The nose is an absolute green pepper festival so if that’s a major turnoff for you, keep your distance, respectable black currant, blackberry fruit underpinning, clean earthiness, no funk, tree bark, tar charred meat fat, sneaks in white citrus before it’s all gone. Medium-bodied and that’s it, the acidity yet wields a serrated blade. There is an oaky residue but finding it welcome to salve a few wounds. Black tea leaf, white grapefruit, tar, the bell pepper just part of the chorus here. Tart currant, blackberry, blueberry fruit, reduced in part by age yet fully proportionate to the whole. For me, pretty much hitting it.

2019 Clos de la Roilette Fleurie. Dark purple core with some ruby influence, the rims stay dark that ruby blended with garnet red. Muscular nose, it has flow but there’s nothing flighty about it, blackberry, cranberry, raspberry fruit, floral, packed brown dirt and stones, subtler white citrus. Admirably light-bodied while retaining the wiry feel. The tannin and acidity both register while even at this youthful stage proportionate to the whole. Snappy red fruits and the grapefruit, lemon citrus ditches any reticence. More stony than earthy, some bark and twig notes, in no way green. Each sip makes you enjoy it more, lip smacking goodness.

2018 Graillot Crozes Hermitage. If onyx was purple it would look like this, the rims a thin and super-saturated red magenta. Wiry lift to the nose, rife with violets, black olive paste, leather, damp minerals, cleanses steadily and to the point where it almost scrubs away the red currant, cherry scents. Medium-bodied, the acidity mean-spirited from the first sip, contributes to its extremely sour character. Blueberry, cranberry, red currant fruit sprayed with white grapefruit juice. Loaded with olive tapenade, leather, grill meat fat and a herbaceous twist thereafter. Shocks the palate, sometimes in a good way, once it’s in your mouth you just have to ride it out. Admire more than like. That said, willing to lay a couple done out of curiosity.

2019 Thévenet Morgon Vieilles Vignes. Filmy ruby red, touch more violet in the core, plum flesh visual. The initial muddy earth and cow pattie short-lived in the nose, then it’s strawberry, rhubarb fruit, wildflowers, fennel, and at times a dollop of honey. Medium-bodied, you can feel it slim down as it progresses across the palate, in no way a “fading out.” The power of the white grapefruit to naval orange citrus unexpected based on the nose. Tannin seems average but acidity seems poised to carry it over the longer haul. Taut red cherry supplements that strawberry, rhubarb fruit. Does a good job of never coming off as too sour nor sweet. Hay, lilacs, mint, the finish brings a quiet roasty character to it which may become more pronounced with time. Still, like the youthful material enough to throw one in the cellar.

2018 Texier Côtes du Rhône Brézème. Tightly wound purple core, breaks decisively with the scarlet red rims, no lack of surface shine. Light whiff of peanut shells and cocoa but evanescent, mainly currant to dark berry fruit that has depth but not willing to unfurl much, the cleaning people scrubbed the earth and stones, nothing sauvage about it, curiously primary. Medium-bodied, satiny smooth, almost worrisome. Tannin and acidity entirely managed, barest glimmer of olive pit or earth. More by way of lavender. In no way “fruity” but here too the currant, blackberry, plum fruit about all you are getting, good sourness though. This is ready to go yet have to trust the general pedigree of the wine to expect ageworthiness.

2016 Clos del Rey Côtes du Roussillon Villages La Sabina. Dark purple core while you can still see through it, dark magenta to scarlet rims, sleek surface. Dense, overripe nose of cinnamon, clove spice, plum to prune, cassis fruit, molasses, and a medicinal cleansing aspect that isn’t really alcoholic heat, takes its time vacating the nostrils. Full-bodied, here it does run a bit hot. Grill smoke, charred meat fat, honey barbecue sauce. Blueberry syrup, prune, raspberry jam, it’s much more sugary than ripe. Some green apple develops over time. Spiced orange peel. It’s over the top but feels like it knows it. And if you are in the right frame of mind for it there’s good pleasure to be had. 60% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 15% Carignan. (Composite Cork: Diam5)

2004 Perrot-Minot Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes. If there’s purple in the core it’s due to the power of suggestion, on the main it’s rust and brick reds before a pale yellow at the outermost rim. The nose is super funky, merde, sweat and peanut shells, blew off very slowly, the cherry, raspberry scents sort of shriveled into a tight core, followed on by dried grapefruit husks, the smell of wild grasses as you break them walking through a damp meadow. Medium-bodied, the tannin remains stern and at this juncture I’m going with the sentiment that this ain’t gonna change. The funk in the trunk less perceptible but you know it’s there. Violets, roses, grapefruit, tarry earth, when something appears it’s gone almost before you register it. The raspberry, cherry, blackberry fruit is simple, probably was strangled in the crib. Just throwing it in the cellar was pushing the envelope, regardless of when the cork was popped thereafter.

2018 Famille Perrin Côtes-du-Rhône Nature. Purple core shifts into scarlet red to form broad rims, quite shiny surface, actually quite pretty in the glass. Has the texture of wet cotton balls in the nose, not forceful but no escaping it, sort of medicinal quality, despite seeing very minimal oak there’s a cocoa aspect, dunno maybe reductive, the plum, black currant, cherry scents dewy and heavy. Full-bodied, in spite of an undercurrent of pulsating acidity the fleshiness splays itself cheek to cheek. Plum, currant, blackberry, curiously black fruited. Sour orange accent. Menthol, wet straw. Spent a good bit of time with it without solid results. A wine which serves multiple masters. Unspecified percentages of Grenache, Syrah.

2019 Huet Vouvray Le Mont Sec. Somewhat pale, worn gold hue, glassy surface, sparkles well. There’s a pregnant quality to the nose even as the scents separate without effort, whipped cream, graham cracker then zesty lime, crisp apple, pear, melon fruit, touch waxy at times, briny at others, becomes noticeably smokier as it warms. Medium-bodied, glides into the mouth then coils through the mid-palate as the acidity starts exerting influence. Same fruit with addition of kumquat and pineapple. Nice salinity. Clove, violets, mint, orange to lime citrus. Finish features more tactile sensations than flavors. Merits a decanting today, should age nicely.

2019 La Pépière Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie Briords Cuvée Vieilles Vignes. Pleasing shine to the white gold, straw coloration, transparent, dances in the glass. Seashell, quinine, chalk make for a traditionally styled nose, subtler lemon to even lime citrus, melon, pear, red apple fruit scents, good thrust but without a true edge to it. Medium-bodied, did not care all that much for it at first and gave it air time to settle in. Firmed up and lost what seemed like excess fruitiness. The melon, pear, kumquat, pineapple still obvious but met in kind by the stone dust, minerality and strong salinity. Minty touch. The citrus more grapefruit to lemon here. The acidity strikes me as good not great, might be best to treat it as a medium term ager with good fruit left and hoping for mild tertiary development. (Composite Cork)

1990 Müller-Catoir Riesling Haardter Herrenletten Spätlese AP #16. Fully amber at this point, flat surface, hue diminished towards the rims. The nose displays a solid funkiness and doughiness at first, blows off with patience, apricot paste, pineapple, rubber, sage and garden herbs, then quiet smokiness as it warms, comes off as if it would have been quite powerful in its youth. Medium-bodied, coats the palate and then the acidity shaves it off. Spiced orange peel, tangerine, tea leaf, sage, suggestion of tar. Here too at first it was way too yeasty then more or less was able to absorb that. Papaya, nectarine, apricot, pineapple fruit, more tingly than juicy, not as much of a dried fruit nature as in the nose. Cleansing sensation extends the finish. Thirty years in this has admirable verve while also at the back end of any plateau. Nice array of tertiary elements beyond the more standard diesel, rubber stuff.

2016 Abbona Barolo. Ruby lightens the core so it’s a toss up between black and violet, turns fiery at the rims, blended red and orange. The nose is admirably tight, forces itself deep into your nostrils with camphor, anise, grapefruit, straw, finally dishing out maraschino cherry to allow some release. Medium-bodied, right off the bat respect the old school tannin, fierce as it should be in infancy. As the palate adjusts the chewiness begins to resolve and you get grapefruit, orange citrus, pine, anise, menthol, and graphite. As in the nose the maraschino cherry, strawberry fruit last to the party. Mandates a decanting today. In today’s wine collecting world I’d hazard the guess that the low price will convince many there’s no merit in aging. (Composite Cork: Diam30)

2018 Le Piane Maggiorina. Reddish purple core, wide blood red rims, good hue vibrancy. While there is a mentholated cleansing aspect to the nose it’s pretty much fruit-driven with plum, black cherry, blackberry in abundance, black earth, slate, grapefruit mixed in while remaining user friendly. Medium-bodied with a slimmed down mid-palate, feels like someone cinched a girdle mid sip. The citrus fairly explosive here. Hard to imagine registering more acidity and staying in balance, verges on volatile. That said, marked by the ripeness of the fruit just the same, particularly maraschino cherry. Leather, slate, hay. Once you get used to it, fairly gulpable. Still, not going to be for everyone for sure. Majority Nebbiolo, remainder Croatina, Vespolina, Uva Rara, other. (Synthetic Cork: Nomacorc Select Green 500)

2018 Pecchenino Nebbiolo Langhe Botti. Crimson red throughout, can see it getting that “black” core with age, quite clean with plenty of shine. Fatness to the nose which stifles the lift and creates a pregnant rain cloud, naval orange, hay, black licorice, while the raspberry, red cherry scents are ripe they don’t necessarily contribute to any lingering. Medium-bodied, smooth and polished, glides through the mouth. The tannin is there and tends to build up behind the finish line. Candied, syrupy cherry, strawberry, raspberry fruit with that green apple thing which to me speaks of an acidic undercurrent. Sour orange fruit. It is missing a cornerstone to anchor the fruity perfume. Serviceable but just, unfortunately a wine enjoyed more at the start of the bottle than the end.

2018 Amorotti Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. Faint day-glo luminescence to the straightforward yellow color, fades at the rims. The nose at first is aggressive band-aid and warm plastic, clearly needs time to open, eventually settles down into lemon yogurt, baking spices, pear, apricot with a suggestion of cherry, never quite opens up fully. Medium-bodied, if that, acidity frames it sturdily. Rose petals, butterscotch, brioche appears first. Stony foundation takes its time to appear and brings some jalapeño with it. Which is one way of saying this wine is all over the map. The apricot, melon, pear fruit steady as she goes. Lemony through the finish. From what I understand the oak treatment is minimal, maybe it has lees aging or something to account for the cream and toast. Not sure I can even reach a final conclusion here.

2016 Adegamãe Touriga Nacional Lisboa. Crimson lightens the purple core a notch, would still consider it opaque, full on crimson to scarlet rims, fine clarity. The nose has a medicinal quality which scrubs it fresh, kind of antiseptic, attractive gamey, beefy aspect, the blueberry, blackberry, cherry scents taut (sour insofar as sourness cannot be part of the olfactory sense). Light to medium-bodied, minty with some toast and cola bean notes at first. The dark berry fruit glides in as the velvet rope is lifted, smooth and assured. Sufficient tannin to slow things to a halt from mid-palate to finish. A few bursts of grapefruit before allowing for a floral dew. Solid everyday wine.

2015 Quinta Várzea da Pedra Lisboa Óbido Reserva. Inky purple core, expected as such, fat crimson rims, the luster adds more presence. Plummy nose, rich blackberry to blueberry scents, minor accents of cocoa and potpourri, really there’s nothing there but fruit. Medium-bodied, the tannin firms it up yet also contributes to a lack of perceptible progress through the palate. Good dose of sour orange to grapefruit citrus. Maraschino cherry, blueberry, strawberry, odd volte face from the nose. Moderate greenness through the finish, tempered by oak creaminess. Not finding any overt flaws, in the end it’s simply not that interesting. 50% Syrah, 50% Touriga Nacional.

2015 Cartuxa (Fundação Eugénio de Almeida) Alentejo Colheita. Blackish purple core, the clean transparency shows at the thin brick red rims, at some angles almost shows some brown. Milk chocolate and hard butterscotch candy make the initial impression in the nose, syrupy concentration to the cherry, raspberry, blueberry scents, welcome grassiness brings upright posture, meadow scrub and flowers, while there’s nothing distinct about it I found it growing on me. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied, you feel it from start to finish but it does show nice pacing. The tannin starts squeezing during the mid-palate and arguably dries things out more than preferred. The oak comes off as toasty, roasty here not sweet, some licorice and chocolate. Tart lemon, grapefruit citrus. The cherry, blackberry fruit tends to come in and out of focus. A little more integration and you’d have something here. 40% Aragonez, 40% Alicante Bouschet, 20% Trincadeira.

2001 Remírez de Ganuza Rioja Old Vines. Reddish brick has seeped into the purple core to lighten it some, sunset red to orange rims, looks advanced but Riojan wines can look just like this in their youth. Close to two decades out the nose still driven by vanilla, coconut, mint and to a certain extent dill oak, actually seemed more complex/tertiary on release in 2005, sandalwood, mukhwas, tea leaf, spiced orange peel, the cherry, dark berry scents loosening their grip. Light to medium-bodied, the tannin pulverized into a drying powder. Just enough sweetness left in the core of the cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit to break through the finish line. Cedar, incense, no meaningful variation from the nose. Was very favorably impressed in its youth, this sampling is just a diminished version of that and not something altogether different. Not bad but hoped for much more. 85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano, 3% Garnacha, 2% other.
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Markus S
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Re: A Few Recent Tastes XXX

#2 Post by Markus S » October 13th, 2020, 5:47 am

Marc_Hanes wrote:
October 12th, 2020, 7:59 pm

2015 Cartuxa (Fundação Eugénio de Almeida) Alentejo Colheita. Blackish purple core, the clean transparency shows at the thin brick red rims, at some angles almost shows some brown. Milk chocolate and hard butterscotch candy make the initial impression in the nose, syrupy concentration to the cherry, raspberry, blueberry scents, welcome grassiness brings upright posture, meadow scrub and flowers, while there’s nothing distinct about it I found it growing on me. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied, you feel it from start to finish but it does show nice pacing. The tannin starts squeezing during the mid-palate and arguably dries things out more than preferred. The oak comes off as toasty, roasty here not sweet, some licorice and chocolate. Tart lemon, grapefruit citrus. The cherry, blackberry fruit tends to come in and out of focus. A little more integration and you’d have something here. 40% Aragonez, 40% Alicante Bouschet, 20% Trincadeira.
I've liked Cartuxa branco before: not quite white Rioja or white Burgundy, but with characteristics of both.
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Re: A Few Recent Tastes XXX

#3 Post by Tomás Costa » October 13th, 2020, 12:01 pm

Always great to read your notes! And great to hear about cellar worthy wines which are reasonably priced...
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D@vid Bu3ker
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Re: A Few Recent Tastes XXX

#4 Post by D@vid Bu3ker » October 13th, 2020, 12:21 pm

Any idea if Le Piane has gone all Nomacork? I have some other recent releases.
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Re: A Few Recent Tastes XXX

#5 Post by Marc_Hanes » October 13th, 2020, 5:25 pm

D@vid Bu3ker wrote:
October 13th, 2020, 12:21 pm
Any idea if Le Piane has gone all Nomacorc? I have some other recent releases.
I don't really drink much Le Piane, albeit I do enjoy the producer. Looking at my notes database I see:

2011 Mimmo - Composite Cork: Diam5
2017 Maggiorina - Synthetic Cork: Nomacorc Select Green 500
2018 Maggiorina - Synthetic Cork: Nomacorc Select Green 500

I know I have had the basic Boca a few times at tastings or places not conducive to note taking. I believe it's still natural cork but that's fuzzy memory. I have a couple of bottles of the 2015 Boca laid down so time will tell.
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Ramon C
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Re: A Few Recent Tastes XXX

#6 Post by Ramon C » October 14th, 2020, 12:43 am

Re: 2019 Pépière Muscadet Clos des Briords

Waiting for the delivery of the 2019 here. Any thoughts on where it stands relative to 2014-2018 vintages?
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Drew Goin
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Re: A Few Recent Tastes XXX

#7 Post by Drew Goin » October 14th, 2020, 1:36 pm

Thanks for the tasting notes!

Of those listed, I have only had the Mount Horrocks Riesling "Cordon Cut" dessert wine and the Huet Vouvray "Le Mont". Both were young when drunk, both excellent.

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Re: A Few Recent Tastes XXX

#8 Post by Neal.Mollen » October 14th, 2020, 1:39 pm

Great notes; thanks for posting! BTW, I am absolutely stealing "peanut shell stank." It might be the name of my next band.
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Re: A Few Recent Tastes XXX

#9 Post by Marc_Hanes » October 14th, 2020, 6:01 pm

Ramon C wrote:
October 14th, 2020, 12:43 am
Re: 2019 Pépière Muscadet Clos des Briords

Waiting for the delivery of the 2019 here. Any thoughts on where it stands relative to 2014-2018 vintages?
Hey Ramon, hope you are well and drinking better. Looking at ye olde database...

Looks like I skipped the 2018 but my initial tasting of Muscadet from this vintage didn't incite further exploration. Take that as you will. I might have just forgot to buy a bottle.

2017
Clear white to yellow straw color, close to colorless nearer the rims, good surface sheen, on the whole not much to look at. The nose is fairly mute until getting closer to room temperature then wet chalk, saline and violets, never quite stiffens up, challah bread, honey and moderate apricot, apple fruit scents, again more filling than brisk. Medium-bodied, same basic experience in the mouth, while the acidity has grip there’s no “searing sensation” and while not soft, it does lack some energy. Solid sourness in the lemon, blood orange citrus. Seashells, kosher salt and chalk, comes close to herbaceous echoes. The relative lack of pear, apple to apricot fruit ends up a plus. Strong finish. Leaves you unsure about its ageability. (Composite Cork: Diam5)

2016
Simple gold color, suggests a green tint, clear but more translucent than purely transparent. Soft nose of powdered sugar, flowers and whipped cream, suggests a ripe and sweet ripe but the pear, apricot fruit scents do not coalesce in support of this thesis, touch of saline but no substantial smokiness nor chalkiness. In the mouth it’s full-bodied, big and round and the acidity comes off as slight and on the lazy side. Some sea salt and crushed seashells but the bite comes mainly from lemon to blood orange citrus tones. Here the ripeness of the green melon, yellow apple, apricot fruit comes to the fore, about as sweet as you’d ever want it. Easy drinking today, could be wrong but hard to imagine it making compelling old bones. (Composite Cork: Diam5)

2015
Translucent golden coloration, the layering sucks your gaze beneath any surface shine, consistent core to rims, just dense. The nose offers cellar aged apple, pear, peach scents of excellent staying power, honey, cinnamon, when colder this eclipses the finely powdered minerality and chalk notes, has a noticeable floral component, round and quite easy to access. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied and there’s a bluntness to the acidity which solidifies its presence and anchors it on the tongue. The tradeoff is it only reluctantly dances, more so resonates. Above average apple, pear, peach fruit with uncommon sweetness. Even the mixed white citrus seems sweet. The stone dust and chalk gain a place at the table, missing is minerally bite. If it loses the baby fat could end up with the best of both worlds. (Composite Cork: Diam5)

2014
While the worn golden band hue is pale it does layer well into the glass, solid appearance and goes deep into the rims. Very lemony nose with a hint of lime, licorice, floral to the point of obscuring some of the mineral and chalk dust notes, the peach, pear, apple fruit scents are direct and terse, overall forceful in its linear determination to blow through your nostrils. Full-bodied, very broad and tangy with acidity which cloaks the palate in a web of dryness. The citrus is super sour and biting and at times comes close to evoking accents of chili pepper. Wet stone and a light metallic touch, right now adds more to the dryness than broadening the array of flavors. Does take on a more saline inspired profile at the end. Superb verve and personality, right now deserves a decanting and to be served closer to room temperature.

2013
Pale golden core, transparent yet lacks shine, what hue is there diminishes as it reaches the rims, nothing here to catch your visual fancy. The nose is demure, mainly crushed seashells and stone dust, Mandarin orange and lemon citrus, touch of mint and violets, solid enough peach, apricot fruit, mild smokiness at best, creaminess wins out in the end, starts to act like it is focused and then loses it. Medium-bodied, thankfully has sufficient acidity to center and ground it, helps to push the vanilla, whipped cream accents aside, bring out that more pungent smokiness and chalk dust. The citrus has no distinct flavor, the fruit on the whole apple, peach, pear. Glimmer of brine or jalapeño. Licorice. Seems like all stops were pulled out to even achieve this, so a tip of the hat is due.

2012
Plan golden straw color, nothing remarkable visually, has that patina of fizz coating the glass sides, what’s there extends fully into the rims, sits solidly. The nose is comprised mainly of crushed seashells, chalk, salt and lemon zest, has a winsome undercurrent of wildflowers, the pineapple, green apple, peach fruit scents betray little weakness while at the same time it is clear they are not the featured star, splash of honey before it all fades away. In the mouth it’s initially all about the licorice and mint. Then room is made for the flowers and orange to lemon citrus. The mid-palate is all chalk, dusty stone and seashells. The acidity has more firm grip than bite, not inclined to spoil the fun. The nectarine, peach, pineapple, apple fruit holds off to the end and then as reverb. Not as honeyed here, instead there’s a sour brine aspect. Has flesh, not fat, has plenty of vibrancy and bounce.

And so on. To your question, my "ranking" has 2014 and 2015 at the top and I'd put 2019 behind those two from 2014-2019. The 2012 was right up there with 2014 for my palate. FWIW, I put two bottles of 2019 in the cellar.
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Re: A Few Recent Tastes XXX

#10 Post by Ramon C » October 16th, 2020, 7:36 am

Doing well here, Marc. Just patiently waiting for live, in-person drinking-dinner events. Thanks for the added notes on Briords.

I should be imbibing on a 2019, hopefully, this weekend.

Edited to add: I agree with the 2012-2014 as top of the heap vintages, with a slight, hair-split, nod to the 2014 as the main dog. Not sure about the 2015, which was good in itself, but the lush, very fruity approach just didn't strike the same structure as the '12/'14 for me.
Last edited by Ramon C on October 16th, 2020, 5:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: A Few Recent Tastes XXX

#11 Post by Arv R » October 16th, 2020, 4:09 pm

Great to see an update on Remirez de Ganuza; I hardly ever see comments on that. I keep thinking I should buy another bottle or so to try....but Rioja has so many producers I have yet to try too!
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