Burgundy and Duck Cassoulet

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Kelly Walker
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Burgundy and Duck Cassoulet

#1 Post by Kelly Walker » October 25th, 2020, 11:44 am

Cannot think of a better pairing. Got together at the home of great friends whom the Mrs. happens to be an amazing cook. The dinner was duck cassoulet with with three types of sausage and gigante beans cooked over several days. Delicious and filling!

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We started out with Krug Rose in magnum. Our guests served the champagne in coupes. At first I was not sure it was the best for the Krug but it turned out to be a great glass for the Krug power.

With giant chilled shrimp was the 2011 PYCM Corton Chalemagne GC. Outstanding showing. Mature, rich but plenty of edge and minerality.

With the cassoulet, three outstanding red wines:
2005 Gaunoux Pommard 'Grands Epenots' 1er
2009 G. Mugneret-Gilbourg NSG 'Les Chaignots' 1er
2009 M. d'Angerville Volnay 'Fremiet' 1er

Everyone one of these wines served as a perfect match with the cassoulet. The Pommard was surprisingly open with ripe and sweet tannin. The M-G NSG was open displaying the M-G balance and elegance. The Fremiet was singing. Each one after a bite expressed a different component in the complex dish.

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Finally, with the cheese, dessert and after dinner nibbles:

2005 G. Raphet Chambertin Clos de Beze GC - Complain all you want about the decidedly un-Burgundian looking label, this was a perfect way to end the evening. Unmistakably Beze in presentation. Dark with rich fruits and lovely long spice finish.

Great way to usher in the fall season.
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Re: Burgundy and Duck Cassoulet

#2 Post by Sarah Kirschbaum » October 25th, 2020, 12:02 pm

Unless you happen to be able to think of aged Madiran or Marcillac....

I'm just teasing. Burgundy and cassoulet are heavenly together, and that lineup looks great. As does the cassoulet.
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Mark Golodetz
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Re: Burgundy and Duck Cassoulet

#3 Post by Mark Golodetz » October 25th, 2020, 12:31 pm

I probably would not pair with a fine older Burgundy, but younger ones are fine. I have a cache of old Bandols for Cassoulet which I think is the ultimate match.
Dartagnan has a very good cassoulet kit.
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Re: Burgundy and Duck Cassoulet

#4 Post by F.Daner » October 25th, 2020, 12:54 pm

Great notes Kelly. We did Coq Au Vin in August in Banner Elk. It was like fall weather in the mountains. Matched it with 08 Bachelet Gev Village. Your post on coq au vin dinner was the inspiration. Great match for Burgundy.

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Jerry Hey
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Re: Burgundy and Duck Cassoulet

#5 Post by Jerry Hey » October 25th, 2020, 12:56 pm

I made hachis parmentier with duck confit and porcini on Friday and served 2002 d'Angerville Clos des Ducs. It was a perfect match.

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Re: Burgundy and Duck Cassoulet

#6 Post by KenL. » October 25th, 2020, 1:09 pm

Jerry Hey wrote:
October 25th, 2020, 12:56 pm
I made hachis parmentier with duck confit and porcini on Friday and served 2002 d'Angerville Clos des Ducs. It was a perfect match.
That sounds great. Hachis Parmentier was my favorite family meal when I worked a season at restaurant in Carcasonne. Had Cassoulet there paired with a local Minervois. What grows together goes together.
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Re: Burgundy and Duck Cassoulet

#7 Post by Joshua Kates » October 25th, 2020, 4:06 pm

Nice bottles! It is not the way that I would have gone, but maybe that they were on the young side helped. It seems like it worked wonderfully, so when then do I know?
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Re: Burgundy and Duck Cassoulet

#8 Post by Brad England » October 25th, 2020, 4:20 pm

Looks awesome Kelly. I've had my eye on my last bottle of 2011 PYCM Corton Charlemagne for a while, and your note seals it. For some reason I'm in the "drink them up" mode on 11's.
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Re: Burgundy and Duck Cassoulet

#9 Post by dcornutt » October 25th, 2020, 4:29 pm

Nice Kelly! I love the selection. Lots of good wine in there. Cassoulet is a comfort dish. You need substantial wines.
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Re: Burgundy and Duck Cassoulet

#10 Post by Mattstolz » October 25th, 2020, 6:34 pm

do you follow a recipe for your cassoulet? would be curious to know which one! the one I use ends up being covered with a bread crumb layer as it cooks... but I was listening to a podcast with the founder of D’Artagnan the other day and she was talking about all the different regional styles of cassoulet.

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Nick Christie
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Re: Burgundy and Duck Cassoulet

#11 Post by Nick Christie » October 25th, 2020, 6:36 pm

A few '05 Big Boys showing well, huh? Good fortune :)

But you earned it. I like playing with glassware with Krug, and fully endorse the choice and the reward! Lovely meal, Kelly.

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Re: Burgundy and Duck Cassoulet

#12 Post by Andrew Kotowski » October 25th, 2020, 7:18 pm

Mattstolz wrote:
October 25th, 2020, 6:34 pm
do you follow a recipe for your cassoulet? would be curious to know which one! the one I use ends up being covered with a bread crumb layer as it cooks... but I was listening to a podcast with the founder of D’Artagnan the other day and she was talking about all the different regional styles of cassoulet.
https://www.seriouseats.com/2014/10/how ... erole.html

Recipe there is fantastic. You can skip the gelatin if you make homemade stock, especially if you use chicken feet. I’ve cooked with the best of French ingredients across the board and agree with Kenji re: using chicken instead of duck (heresy, I know), but in fairness, I was using poulet de Bresse. In France, everybody has a different version of what’s included and, funny enough, the one place with no real cassoulet tradition that I saw... was Paris itself. I must have tried 15 different places, but the eventual winner was a place I found here - L’Assiette. No substitute for a six hour cook with seven cracks.
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Nick Christie
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Re: Burgundy and Duck Cassoulet

#13 Post by Nick Christie » October 25th, 2020, 7:31 pm

Andrew Kotowski wrote:
October 25th, 2020, 7:18 pm
Mattstolz wrote:
October 25th, 2020, 6:34 pm
do you follow a recipe for your cassoulet? would be curious to know which one! the one I use ends up being covered with a bread crumb layer as it cooks... but I was listening to a podcast with the founder of D’Artagnan the other day and she was talking about all the different regional styles of cassoulet.
https://www.seriouseats.com/2014/10/how ... erole.html

Recipe there is fantastic. You can skip the gelatin if you make homemade stock, especially if you use chicken feet. I’ve cooked with the best of French ingredients across the board and agree with Kenji re: using chicken instead of duck (heresy, I know), but in fairness, I was using poulet de Bresse. In France, everybody has a different version of what’s included and, funny enough, the one place with no real cassoulet tradition that I saw... was Paris itself. I must have tried 15 different places, but the eventual winner was a place I found here - L’Assiette. No substitute for a six hour cook with seven cracks.
This is the detailed comment I expect from a man with The Cutting Board of Thunder and other skills....

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Re: Burgundy and Duck Cassoulet

#14 Post by KenL. » October 25th, 2020, 7:48 pm

I think of cassoulet as a regional specialty of southwest France. Specifically the three towns of Carcasonne, Castlenaudry and Toulouse with each having their own mix of meats. With many French tourists traveling there on vacation to eat it. I’m not aware of a Cassoulet tradition in other parts of France.
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Re: Burgundy and Duck Cassoulet

#15 Post by Andrew Kotowski » October 25th, 2020, 8:36 pm

@Nick - I spit my Manhattan up on my cell :)
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Re: Burgundy and Duck Cassoulet

#16 Post by Mattstolz » October 26th, 2020, 8:49 am

Andrew Kotowski wrote:
October 25th, 2020, 7:18 pm
Mattstolz wrote:
October 25th, 2020, 6:34 pm
do you follow a recipe for your cassoulet? would be curious to know which one! the one I use ends up being covered with a bread crumb layer as it cooks... but I was listening to a podcast with the founder of D’Artagnan the other day and she was talking about all the different regional styles of cassoulet.
https://www.seriouseats.com/2014/10/how ... erole.html

Recipe there is fantastic. You can skip the gelatin if you make homemade stock, especially if you use chicken feet. I’ve cooked with the best of French ingredients across the board and agree with Kenji re: using chicken instead of duck (heresy, I know), but in fairness, I was using poulet de Bresse. In France, everybody has a different version of what’s included and, funny enough, the one place with no real cassoulet tradition that I saw... was Paris itself. I must have tried 15 different places, but the eventual winner was a place I found here - L’Assiette. No substitute for a six hour cook with seven cracks.
https://www.bonappetit.com/recipe/classic-cassoulet

I used bon Appetits recipe the last time I made it and it was very good. I always have used duck just as much because I always have duck legs available for confit as anything other reason. But I’ll have to try it with chicken since I do go through significantly more chickens than ducks haha

I should add, however, that I do kind of like the thicker, more stew-like consistency, as I’m just not much of a soup person.
Last edited by Mattstolz on October 26th, 2020, 9:33 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Burgundy and Duck Cassoulet

#17 Post by Phil T r o t t e r » October 26th, 2020, 9:00 am

This:
http://www.confrerieducassoulet.com/la-recette.html

My friend who makes this for us once or twice a year cheats and serves it with a spoonful of crème fraîche in every plate... don't tell the purists or your liver!

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