This is my first tasting notes post! Had super spreader event with some friends (joke) up in the Catskills and we took an approach of go big or go home.
1.5L:
The 2009 Cristal was totally disjointed and clumsy upon opening. What was flat and too sweet somehow turned into a wonderfully layered, balanced champagne with great breadth over the course of three hours. The wine turned in the right direction after about 45-60 minutes.
The 2006 Larmandier-Bernier VV De Cremant was possibly at the height of its powers and just stunningly beautiful. I’m often afraid of cellaring these wines because, considering the style, I would rather drink one on the way up rather than on the way down. This was just incredibly complex with all the LB signatures but married to great acidity. Perhaps the wine of the weekend.
Christophe Baron’s 2014 Les Haut Blanches Vignes was just not showing much. Within the context of 100% Meunier-based champagne, I found it to be very clean and linear. Not a bad thing, but it couldn’t hold a candle to many of the other sparkling offerings that we drank throughout the weekend. It did not show any of the jovial nuances that you get with a wine like Les Beguines from Prevost. I’m cautiously optimistic the wine will eventually grow into its shoes and turn into something really memorable but I wouldn’t touch another one for about 4-5 years.
2015 Bollinger PNVZ was too young as well but showed to be more expressive than the Baron. I personally would invest elsewhere at this pricetag but a happy and solid new offering from Bollinger.
Agrapart’s NV Terroirs (whatever the most current disgorgement is) was rock solid. Bright, bracing, and very much game, it showed somewhere in the middle of a series of wines that cost considerably more. In my opinion, this wine has held its level of quality while the 7 crus has dipped over the last few years.
To no surprise, the 2013 Pierre Peters Les Chetillons was in the top percentile of the gathering’s wines. The quality here put to bed any recent concerns that I might have had about the l’Etonnant Monsieur Victor cuvee detracting from the reserves of Les Chetillons. Not sure if it will be shutting down imminently but it was fantastic and certainly has the stuffing to be lost in the cellar for a couple of decades.
2007 Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino lived up to the vintage’s reputation with a lot of ripe and happy fruit coming at you like an Oklahoma drill. A winner.
My usual rule with San Giusto a Rentennano’s Percarlo is that it needs about 15-20 years before it truly hits its groove in the great vintages. My experience with the 2001 made me adjust my formula to about 25 years in the case of 1.5l bottles. It was still wearing a little oak and will turn the corner to more savory notes (blood and iron is my experience here) in about 5 years, that’s when I think it will be at its peak.
750ml bubbles not pictured:
The 2008 Cedric Bouchard Les Ursules was the other wine that was arguably the best I had. Still has crackling acidity but I imagine it has reached its apex. Even though the prices have risen and it can be time-consuming to chase these down, Ceddy Bu is currently holding the champagne championship belt in my household.
2006 Pierre Peters Les Chetillons was wonderful and in a great spot. Showing more maturity and complexity than the 2013 1.5l that we had earlier. I know a few people on this board swear by the longevity of this wine but I personally would rather open at 15 years old rather than 20.
2008 Pierre Paillard Le Grande Recolte was the only dud of the weekend. Hopefully, this was just an off bottle but all it showed was bruised apple and sadness. I have really enjoyed the Les (Bill) Parcelles and found it to be an excellent value but this was a notable disappointment especially considering the vintage.
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