TN: Lino Maga 2015-1979 vertical - one of the craziest verticals I've been to

WINE TALK
1

So I guess most of you haven’t ever heard of Lino Maga or his wines, since even for a wine geek interested of anything obscure (like me), Lino Maga has been relatively unknown to me and I’ve had only once or twice his wines before this tasting. Nevertheless, based on my previous experience with the producer, I didn’t need to hesitate for a moment when I received an invitation to this vertical (and fortunately I enrolled immediately, since the tasting went full quite quickly).

Commendatore Lino Maga is an old fellow who could be likened to Jean-Pierre Boyer of Bel-Air Marquis d’Aligre as much as his wines could be likened to those of BAMA. Almost 90 years old, he still runs the winery he inherited from his father and where he has worked since he was 6 years old - that means the recently finished 2020 harvest was his 83rd! Lino Maga makes the wines just like his father did - and probably more or less the same way the wines have been made since the winery was founded, back in 1886. He owns some four hectares of vineyards averaging 50 years old around the village of Broni in Oltrepò Pavese, Lombardy. The vineyards are divided into two Crus - Barbacarlo and Montebuono - of which Barbacarlo is considered to be the top Cru of the region and is a monopole vineyard of Lino Maga.

Lino Maga has never used any pesticides in the vineyards, so they have been farmed organically since they were planted in the late 19th century. The vineyards are inter-planted to Croatina, Uva Rara and Ughetta (a local synonym for Vespolina), most of the plantings being Croatina. Maga harvests when he deems Croatina to be of optimum ripeness, after which the grapes are transported to the winery where they are crushed and fermented spontaneously. The wines ferment slowly over the winter in large, ancient botti casks and are bottled unfiltered as soon as they seem to have reached full dryness, normally in the following spring. Of his wines, single-vineyard bottling Barbacarlo has always been the most acclaimed one - which is also the reason why the vineyard managed to acquire a special Cru status so early on - but the other single-vineyard bottling of Montebuono follows closely behind, being vinified exactly the same way, the only difference here being the source vineyard of the grapes. There is also a rarely-made third wine Ronchetto, but it is unclear to me if this is a Cru wine as well or just a multi-vineyard blend or if the fruit is sourced from somewhere else.

Basically the Lino Maga wines are natural wines - only that they predate the modern trend of natural wine by almost 100 years! However, to my understanding, Maga uses some SO2 upon bottling to ensure the stability and the shelf life of the wine, so they do not belong to the extremist no-SO2 end of the naturalist spectrum.

For this tasting an acquaintance of mine had collected numerous vintages of both Barbacarlo and Montebuono and finally decided to arrange a tasting of all of these bottles at one go. I’ve certainly been to tastings with more bottles, but I’ve never been to a tasting with this many bottles of just two labels. And what made this tasting even more interesting was Maga’s insistince on how the wines must display the characteristics of the vintage. He really revels in vintage variation and does not attempt to make his wines one bit identical to each other. On the contrary, he has wondered why the modern wine producers even bother in labeling their wines with the vintage when the wines taste exactly the same, year in year out? And true enough, the wines really did differ A LOT from vintage to another. Even if we were drinking just two different labels, it felt like we were drinking a completely new wine with every glass - and this was only a good thing! There’s definitely some sense of adventure here - not unlike how vastly different the wines of Chateau Musar can be from one vintage to another.

The wines themselves had a certain rusticity to them. They weren’t natty one bit, but they definitely exhibited some funk. And while you could never say the wines were polished in any way, almost all the vintages showed wonderful sense of this authentic, effortless finesse. The wines were not big nor flashy, but neither were they delicate or understated. Most of them were funky to some degree, but no matter if they were or were not, it never was in the way of their elegance. As expected with this much vintage variation, not all vintages were as successful as the best ones, but nevertheless the highs were much higher than the lows lower. It’s very hard to find an apt analogy to these wines, but they felt like a combination of Château Bel-Air Marquis d’Aligre and Burgundy Pinot Noir, only made in Italy with Italian grape varieties and vinified more or less the same way as Chateau Musar. Not entirely correct, but hopefully those in the know get a good idea! [cheers.gif]
linomaga.jpg

2 Likes
2

Deep black cherry color that doesn’t permit much light through. Dark-toned, sweet’n’savory nose with aromas of blueberries, some sun-dried cherry tones, a little bit of apple, light lifted notes of sweet, balsamic VA and a hint of ripe cranberry. The wine is wild, very ripe and surprisingly sweet-toned on the palate with a quite full body. The overall impression is very marmaladey and almost off-dry, making many people in the tasting wonder if the wine can be just 1,51 g/l in residual sugar. Quite intense flavors of blueberry jam, rather pronounced VA notes of sweet balsamico, a little bit of cherry liqueur, light notes of ripe figs, a lifted hint of nail polish remover and a touch of juicy blackcurrant. Despite its lush, marmaladey feel, the wine is surprisingly firm and structured with its rather high acidity and moderately grippy medium tannins. The finish is juicy, somewhat wild and quite volatile with flavors of boysenberry jam, some ferrous notes of blood, a little bit of balsamic VA, light fruity notes of ripe cranberries, a hint of wild funk and a touch of earthiness that might suggest mousiness - yet the wine doesn’t seem to go there, fortunately.

A very wild, oddly sweetish and quite tasty effort that is very different from the neighboring vintages like 2014, 2013 and 2011. The lush overall feel and marmaladey sweetness here really make the wine appear off-dry and jammy, making it impossible to believe the wine would have only 1,51 g/l of residual sugar. Sure, the high alcohol and relatively high levels of VA can lend some sweet qualities to a wine, but the sweetness here feels like something beyond that. Nevertheless, if you can get past the sweetness, this is a pretty enjoyable and balanced wine. Maybe a tad high in VA to make the wine great, but this is nevertheless a nice and pleasant effort for a young Barbacarlo. Very hard to assess how this will develop in a cellar. (88 pts.)

Deep and quite opaque black cherry color. Heavily musty nose of TCA.

Badly corked. Shucks. NR (flawed)

Somewhat translucent garnet color with a developed, subtly maroon hue. Savory and somewhat autumnal nose with dry leaves, some wizened forest fruits, a little bit of gamey meat, light earthy tones and a sweeter hint of blueberry jam. The wine is dry, dense and quite robust on the palate with a moderately full body and rather meaty flavors of peppery spice, ripe red plums, some tobacco, light sweeter notes of strawberries, a little bit of leathery funk, a lifted hint of sweet VA and a touch of fried mushrooms. The wine is enjoyably firm and structured with its high acidity and moderately grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is dry, somewhat grippy and quite long with savory flavors of meaty umami, peppery spice, some leathery funk, light ripe fruit notes of strawberries and blackberries, a little bit of tobacco, a ferrous hint of blood and a touch of roasted game.

A very nice, complex and characterful Lombardian red with a very savory and somewhat rustic overall feel - yet the wine never comes across as particularly funky, just very old-school. However, despite its rustic overall quality, the wine shows remarkable depth and great sense of finesse as well. Although still quite youthful with a firm structure, the wine is relatively accessible already. However, seeing how much potential for future development it seems to hold, I wouldn’t touch the wine for many more years. (92 pts.)

Pale, luminous and fully translucent ruby red color with an evolved brick-orange hue. Quite dry and moderately developed nose with savory aromas of ripe cranberries, some wizened red cherries, light notes of autumnal leaves, a little bit of earthiness and a hint of parasol mushroom. The wine is dry, firm and medium-bodied on the palate with savory flavors of brambly raspberries, ripe red cherries, some umami notes of raw meat, a little bit of crunchy cranberry, light peppery tones and a ferrous hint of blood. The overall feel is textural and more classical than particularly wild - as opposed to the normally a bit funkier style of Lino Maga wines. Thanks to the high acidity and moderately grippy tannins, the wine is still wonderfully structured despite its 15 years of age. The finish is dry, spicy and moderately long with complex flavors of sanguine iron, some meaty umami tones, a little bit of peppery spice, light brambly raspberry tones, a hint of sour cherry and a touch old, dry leather.

All in all, a beautiful, complex and wonderfully savory vintage of Montebuono where all the right pieces seem to be exactly in place. Although Lino Maga’s style can be quite rustic and funky, this is surprisingly clean for the house style - although the wine is nevertheless very old world in style with some nice roughness around the edges. Starting to show some age, but still the wine is relatively a youngster - I can imagine this wine continuing to improve for another decade or two and keeping good for even longer. Very fine stuff, highly recommended. (94 pts.)

Quite noticeably pale and developed pomegranate red color. Dry, developed nose with savory aromas of game, pipe tobacco, some wizened red fruits, a little bit of evolved leathery character, light sweet notes of balsamico VA and a juicy hint of dark plummy fruit. The wine is dry, lean and crunchy on the palate with a light-to-medium body quite acid-driven flavors of tart lingonberries and cranberries, some ferrous notes of blood, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light leathery tones, a sweeter hint of wizened red berries and a lightly distracting, perhaps bretty touch of something metallic. The acidity relies more on the very high acidity than on the somewhat grippy medium tannins. The finish is dry, cold and slightly lean with moderately grippy tannins and slightly austere flavors of tart lingonberries, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of sanguine iron, light gravelly mineral tones, a hint of ripe redcurrant and a touch of leather.

A cool and somewhat austere yet very sophisticated vintage of Montebuono that is showing some tertiary qualities, but is nevertheless surprisingly youthful for its age. Compared to many other Lino Maga wines, this feels noticeably more cooler-vintage wine with its lighter body, modest alcohol, high acidity and dry, crunchy fruit flavors. Overall the wine might be lacking a bit in stuffing, but there is nevertheless great intensity and depth of taste and wonderful sense of finesse. The only slight beef I have with the wine is that subtle metallic note - possibly from brett - that lingers at the edges of the midpalate. Nevertheless, a fine and rewarding wine that is still going strong.
(91 pts.)

Quite pale, very translucent and relatively youthful pomegranate color. Dusty, underwhelming, almost mute nose. Dull, short and metallic taste with a hint of earth.

Mildly corked. Darnage.
NR (flawed)

Developed and surprisingly dark yet moderately translucent reddish-maroon color with an evolved syrupy-brown rim. Very characterful and distinctive nose with relatively sweet-toned aromas of sweet dusty spices and wild flowers, some saffron, a little bit of new leather, light notes of jammy red fruits, a hint of raspberry marmalade and a touch of pipe tobacco. The wine is dense, moderately full-bodied and firm on the palate with surprisingly fresh, lively and quite acid-driven flavors of sour cherries, some ripe lingonberries, a little bit of something rusty and metallic, light tangy notes of salinity, sweeter hints of dried dark fruits and rowanberry marmalade and a touch of farmhouse funk. The overall feel is still surprisingly structured with the fresh, noticeably high acidity and still rather firm and grippy tannins. The finish is lively, crunchy and moderately tannic with savory flavors of sour cherry bitterness, some tart cranberries, a little bit of sweet wizened raspberries, light rusty notes of something metallic, a hint of new leather and a touch of ripe red plums.

A nice, fresh and crunchy vintage of Montebuono that is in a spectacularly youthful shape for a wine clocking at +30 years! However, there’s a somewhat distracting streak of something metallic that cuts through the fruit - at times rather obtrusively - which takes its toll on the score. Without that metallic note, I probably would’ve scored the wine easily with 3-4 more points; now it’s in the low 90’s - which is still very good in my books, but it feels like this wine could’ve been even better had it been without that metallic note. Nevertheless, this is a very lovely wine - and it’s always possible that this metallic character is only bottle variation and there’s nothing of the sort in the next bottle! (90 pts.)

Pale and very translucent brick-orange color. Dry, savory and moderately tertiary nose with very evolved aromas of tobacco, beef jerky, some smoky tones, a little bit of barnyard funk, light perfumed tones, a hint of blood and a touch of licorice root. The nose feels both rustic yet not particularly funky and very tertiary yet not too old. The wine is dry, acid-driven and medium-bodied on the palate with tertiary flavors of salty beef jerky, tart lingonberries, some sanguine notes of iron, a little bit of sweet, wizened cranberries, light rustic tones of leather and farmyard, a hint of cigar and a touch off licorice root. The wine feels like it has thinned out a bit over the years, yet still the wine retains good substance and intensity with a silky mouthfeel. Nice crunchy acidity and gently grippy medium tannins. The finish is dry, crunchy and gently grippy with flavors of bretty leather, some sour cherry bitterness, light autumnal notes of dry leaves, a little bit of bloody meat, light notes of tobacco, a salty hint of beef jerky and a crunchy touch of tart cranberry.

A nicely rustic and quite evolved vintage of Montebuono that is now at its peak. The wine is getting beautifully tertiary without coming across as too old or going downhill. Lots of depth and nuance here with good sense of intensity stemming from the fresh, high acidity. I can’t see this wine benefiting from further aging, but I can imagine it will keep for at least some years more, so drink now or relatively soon - probably within the next 5 years or so. All in all, an outstanding wine - not perhaps the best vintage of Montebuono out there, but nevertheless a fine, convincing old wine that has stood the test of time. (93 pts.)

Dark, quite subtly translucent and slightly developed pomegranate red color. Rather sharp and angular yet quite perfumed nose with aromas of phenolic spice, some dried flowers, a little bit of leather, light fragrant notes of exotic spices, a hint of animal funk and a touch of ripe forest fruits. As a whole, the nose shows relatively little fruit, yet isn’t lacking in depth or complexity. The wine is firm, dry and quite acid-driven on the palate with savory flavors of sour cherry bitterness, bretty leather funk and barnyard, some smoky phenolic notes, a little bit of tart lingonberries, light ferrous notes of blood, a hint of earth and a touch of gravelly minerality. The wine is still quite tightly-knit with its crunchy, high acidity and rather grippy tannins. The finish is dry, somewhat grippy and enjoyably lively with long and somewhat rustic flavors of sour cherries, some dry old leather, a little bit of blood, light gravelly mineral tones, a hint of earth and a touch of tart lingonberry. The fine-tuned aftertaste feels pretty dry and lean, but not austere.

A very nice, balanced and harmonious vintage of Barbacarlo that is enjoyably fresh, precise and crunchy compared to the lush and almost weirdly sweetish 2015 vintage. All in all, a very sophisticated effort, combining elegance with the rustic roughness that is very typical of Lino Maga wines. The overall feel is still quite tightly-wound and most likely this wine will need at least another 10 years before it starts to show its best. Very nice, recommended. (92 pts.)

Dark yet somewhat translucent and still rather youthful black cherry color with a thin, pale rim. Upon opening the nose felt somewhat closed, not giving much; however, it really didn’t take long for the wine to open up. After some breathing the nose feels big, rich and juicy with vibrant aromas of ripe blackcurrants, some wizened dark plums, a little bit of cigar, light liqueur-ish notes of VA, a hint of blueberry juice and a touch of stable floor funk. Overall the nose comes across as noticeably ripe, wonderfully nuanced and still very youthful for the 7 years of age. The wine is ripe, juicy and quite full-bodied on the palate, proudly showing the obvious ripeness from the exceptional 2013 vintage. There are quite concentrated flavors of sour cherries, raspberry marmalade, some blueberry tones, a little bit of pipe tobacco, light leathery notes, a hint of brambly black raspberry and a sweet touch of a very ripe and succulent dark plum. The wine is bigger and more muscular than a typical vintage of Barbacarlo, but it never comes across as heavy or too ripe, thanks to the moderately high acidity and assertive, rather grippy tannins. The long finish is ripe, juicy and rather tannic with pretty concentrated flavors of sour cherries, some wizened black raspberries, a little bit of leathery funk, light notes of tobacco, a sweet hint of ripe black cherry and a touch of barnyard funk.

A very impressive and powerful vintage of Barbacarlo that stands head and shoulders taller than any other 2010’s vintage. The wine certainly shows quite a bit of ripeness, but it never comes across as sweet, soft or heavy, instead retaining wonderful sense of balance and structure. The overall feel is still rather structure-driven and especially the assertive tannins could benefit a lot from further aging. Most likely this wine will need another 10-15 years before it hits its peak. An outstanding wine, very highly recommended. (95 pts.)

Dark yet slightly translucent black cherry color with a thin, pale rim. Looks a bit darker and slightly more evolved than the vintage 2013. Very odd, pungent and rather green-toned nose with quite intense aromas that are all over the place: geosmin notes of damp soil and freshly-dug beet roots, some lifted nuances of sweet VA, a little bit of blood, light crunchy notes of cranberries, a hint of nail polish remover and a sweet touch of cherry marmalade. Some people in the tasting found the nose very captivating, but to me it felt more off than interesting. On the palate the was lively, crunchy and quite ripe with a moderately full body and surprisingly noticeable streak of alcohol heat. There are concentrated flavors of ripe red fruits, some beet root, a little bit of bretty leather, light sweet notes of raisiny fruit, a hint of crunchy cranberry and a slightly distracting green touch of geosmin. The mouthfeel is silky, yet the wine is rather firm and structured with its surprisingly high acidity and quite prominent, moderately grippy tannins. The finish is ripe, somewhat sweet-toned and slightly green with moderately grippy tannins and intense flavors of tart lingonberries, some leathery funk, a little bit of leafy greenness, light vegetal notes of beetroot, a hint of wild strawberries and a touch of savory earthiness. The high alcohol makes the wine finish on a somewhat warm note.

Some people in the tasting considered this to be the best of the younger Barbacarlo vintages, but to me, this was all over the place and lacking the (perhaps contradictory) rustic finesse and sense of freshness typical of Lino Maga. The wine was very ripe, quite sweet-toned and rather high in alcohol with a moderately distracting streak of greenness I thought was the result of geosmin - it certainly didn’t feel unripe-kind of vegetal greenness, especially considering how ripe the wine was. The firm structure saved a lot, and fortunately the wine was a lot better on the palate than in the nose. Nevertheless, for me this wine didn’t do much, and I’d write it off as a vintage that can be skipped easily. (86 pts.)

Deep, luminous and quite dark ruby-red color with a wide, pale rim. Seductive and somewhat sweet-toned nose with perfumed aromas of cherry marmalade, some ripe boysenberries, a little bit of volatile lift, light pruney tones, a hint of rowanberry marmalade and a touch of savory spice. The wine is ripe, somewhat evolved and quite concentrated on the palate with intense flavors of boysenberries, some raisiny fruit, a little bit of savory spice, light rowanberry marmalade tones, a hint of earth and a lifted, liqueur-ish touch of VA. The structure relies more on the rather high acidity than on the quite gentle tannins that in turn contribute more to the silky texture of the wine. The finish is gently grippy, long and rather warm with bold, complex flavors of wizened dark fruits, some sweet balsamic notes of VA, a little bit of marmaladey sweetness, light raisiny tones, a hint of leathery funk and a touch of tobacco.

A noticeably ripe, bold and surprisingly evolved vintage of Barbacarlo that is all about the solar qualities of the 2011 vintage. Although quite sweet-toned in style, the wine doesn’t come over-the-top but instead manages to retain good sense of balance - mainly thanks to the bright acidity. Overall the wine feels quite developed and while not tertiary, I’d say the wine is getting pretty close to its apogee - which is surprising, knowing how these wines can age for many decades with remarkable ease. This just doesn’t feel like a vintage that has the stuffing to go for the long haul. Better to drink now or within the next decade - probably better sooner rather than later. Good stuff, but doesn’t hold a candle to the best Barbacarlo vintages. (90 pts.)

Very deep, somewhat translucent and rather dark reddish-maroon color with an evolved brownish hue. Fragrant, developed and surprisingly porty nose with bold aromas of raisins, some boysenberry jam, a little bit of sweet, madeirized oxidation, light sappy notes of something green - even vegetal, rich hints of wizened cherries and dried figs and a bretty touch of Band-Aid. The overall feel has a sweet, perfumed impression to it, but as a whole, the nose is very different from the normal style of Barbacarlo, feeling more porty than classic Oltrepò Pavese. The wine is Very full-bodied, concentrated and conspicuously sweet-toned on the palate with flavors of raisiny dark fruit and dried dates, some sweet balsamic notes of VA, a little bit of syrupy richness, light bretty notes of leather and Band-Aid and a hint of black cherry. The wine is lacking freshness, precision and sense of structure with its soft, medium-plus tannins and mellow, gently grippy tannins. The finish is soft, ripe and quite complex with long, sweetish flavors of raisins, some syrupy richness, a little bit of developed beef jerky character, light balsamic notes of VA, a hint of bretty Band-Aid and a phenolic touch of peppery spice.

A surprisingly heavy and porty vintage of Barbacarlo that drinks more like an Amarone than a classic Lino Maga wine. Getting pretty tired with its soft structure and developed, almost tertiary fruit flavors. The overall feel is conspicuously sweet and the wine really doesn’t carry its residual sugar with much grace. All in all, a rather ponderous effort. (85 pts.)

Quite translucent and surprisingly evolved ruby-red color with somewhat syrupy-brown overtones. The nose is surprisingly old and tertiary with slightly understated aromas of dried dates, some roasted meat notes, a little bit of smoke, light pungent notes of soy sauce, a sweet, balsamic hint of VA and a touch of raisins. The wine is staggeringly sweet - basically medium-dry - on the palate with lush, off-dry flavors of cherry marmalade, some strawberry jam, a little bit of sweet balsamic VA and medicinal ether, light fruity notes of wizened black cherries, a hint of beef jerky and a touch of raisins. With its medium acidity and somewhat resolved, medium-grippy tannins the mouthfeel is soft and somewhat dull, lacking the necessary structure to counterpoint such conspicuous sweetness. The medium-long finish is juicy, sweetish and rather warm with soft, round flavors of raisins, cherry marmalade, some plummy fruit, a little bit of strawberry jam, light volatile notes of ethery VA and a hint of soy sauce.

A very weird, rich and atypically sweet vintage of Barbacarlo coming across as very evolved, soft and unbalanced with its lush, jammy flavors and very evolved, tertiary fruit. Although Lino Maga embraces vintage variation with his wines, this bottle seems just way over-the-top and is definitely not representative of the usual, balanced and wonderfully complex house style. Most likely the wine is either at its plateau of maturity or very close to it, and won’t benefit from further aging. Not recommended. (81 pts.)

Luminous and rather translucent pomegranate color with a slightly evolved hue of maroon. Beautifully fragrant, slightly sweet-toned and subtly sauvage nose with bright, seductive aromas of pomegranate, some red cherry, a little bit of bretty barnyard funk, light volatile notes of ether, a floral hint of violets and a touch of ripe bilberry. Lovely! The wine is dry, dense and clean on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and intense flavors of ripe red cherries, some sweet dark plums, a little bit of redcurrant jam, light developed notes of wizened dark fruits, prunes and meaty umami, a liqueurish hint of VA and a slightly acetic touch of balsamico. The overall feel is impressively structured and very balanced with the high acidity and still firm, moderately grippy tannins. The finish is complex, juicy and somewhat tannic with long, savory flavors of ripe cherries, some pruney notes, a little bit of roasted meat, light phenolic notes of peppery spice, a floral hint of perfumed violets and a sweet touch of dried figs.

A beautiful, complex and impressively structured vintage of Barbacarlo that is easily among the most impressive vintages post-millennium - if not the most impressive one. Remarkable combination of power, structure, developed complexity and youthful energy. The wine certainly shows the funky undertones of Lino Maga, but the wine never once comes across as excessively wild and natty - instead this has tons of old school finesse that appeals to me greatly. Even though the wine is 15 years old already, it is only inching towards its drinking window and most likely the wine will need another 10-15 years - if not more - before it reaches its peak. Spectacular stuff, highly recommended. (95 pts.)

Luminous, quite pale and very translucent crimson color that comes across as surprisingly youthful for the age. Slightly understated and somewhat stuffy nose with earthy aromas of beef jerky, some leather tones, a little bit of smoke, light autumnal notes of damp leaves, a sweeter hint of ripe cranberries and touch of mushroomy sous-bois. The wine is dry, medium-bodied and quite tightly-knit on the palate with savory flavors of dried dates and red plums, some evolved notes of meat stew and umami, a little bit of crunchy cranberry, light dried herb tones, a hint of saline tang and a touch of autumnal leaves. The wine is high in both acidity and firm, quite grippy tannins, making the wine come across as rather sinewy and unresolved despite its almost 20 years of age. The finish is developed, savory and quite grippy with intense flavors of meaty umami, some tangy salinity, light mushroomy tones, a little bit of dark forest fruits, sweet hints of dried red fruits and a touch of blood.

A nice, evolved and very savory vintage of Barbacarlo that has quite a bit of everything. However, it still doesn’t have the stuffing of the best vintages, coming across as somewhat raw and slightly unbalanced, feeling both somewhat tertiary yet unresolved at the same time. All in all, the wine is very enjoyable and harmonious, but especially on its own it really doesn’t take off, but remains on the ground. A good, fine-tuned food wine that will benefit from dishes that can tone down its firm structure. While the wine might continue to develop for some years more, I doubt this vintage will make old bones. (89 pts.)

Luminous, rather pale and very translucent reddish-coppery color. Somewhat understated and slightly sweetish nose with aromas of dried dates, some roasted meat tones, a little bit of strawberry jam, light pruney tones, evolved hints of wet animal and pungent oxidative character and a touch of gamey meat. The wine is evolved, silky and moderately full-bodied on the palate with savory, quite tertiary flavors of raisins, peppery spice, some liqueur-ish dark fruits, a little bit of meaty umami and blood, light old leather tones, a hint of gravelly minerality and an oxidative touch of soy sauce. The overall feel is quite textural and open-knit with the moderately full-bodied and somewhat resolved medium-plus tannins. The finish is long, savory and somewhat grippy with rather tertiary flavors of raw meat and roasted game, some leathery funk, a little bit of pruney dark fruit, light soy sauce tones, a hint of gravelly minerality.

An evolved vintage of Barbacarlo at its peak now. Structurally resolved and fruit-wise getting quite tertiary. Shows good complexity, albeit lacks the depth, nuance and intensity of the best vintages. Tasting this side-by-side with vintage 2002, the wines were rather similar to each other, this one showing a bit of evolution and softness in structure. (90 pts.)

Beautifully luminous, translucent and still rather youthful garnet color with a deep, dark core. Evolved, somewhat sweet-toned and wonderfully perfumed nose with seductive aromas of wizened dark fruits, some bretty notes of leather, a little bit of ripe blackberry, light strawberry liqueur tones, a fragrant hint of orange rind and a subtly smoky touch of cigar. The wine is very firm, acid-driven and even somewhat austere on the palate with dry and very intense flavors of sour cherries, some pipe tobacco, a little bit of crunchy dark berries, light sanguine notes of gamey meat, a hint of tart redcurrant and a touch of licorice. Compared to the somewhat evolved nose, the wine is remarkably youthful - even somewhat backward - on the palate, exhibiting wonderful purity and transparency of fruit. The overall feel is very high-toned and structured, thanks to the fresh, racy acidity and still rather grippy tannins. The finish is dry, crunchy and somewhat grippy with intense and very persistent aftertaste of gamey meat, some ferrous notes of blood, a little bit of crunchy cranberris and redcurrants, light pruney tones, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of tobacco.

A beautiful, classic and harmonious vintage of Barbacarlo where every little piece fits in its place and there is not a single thing off. There is a subtle hint of sauvage funk, very typical of Lino Maga, but for example there is no lifted VA character here whatsoever, the alcohol remains out of the way throughout and the overall feel is wonderfully pure and transparent. I was expecting the wine to be more evolved because of its rather developed nose, but on the palate the wine turned out to be remarkably youthful for one clocking at 23 years of age. This is still far away from its apogee and most likely it will continue to improve for another decade or two, keeping well for even much longer. An extraordinary wine that still has some room for improvement. Hands down one of the best wines in the tasting of 22 different wines. Very highly recommended. (96 pts.)

Very pale and very translucent brick-red color with a developed maroon hue. Aged and somewhat dried-up nose with rather tertiary aromas of prunes, some perfumed notes of dried flowers, a little bit of dried raspberry, a hint of gamey meat and a touch of bretty funk. Overall the nose feels nuanced, yet still lacking the depth and intensity of the better Barbacarlos. The wine is ripe, textural and subtly sweet-toned with a medium body and tertiary flavors of prunes and raisins, some syrupy tones, a little bit of peppery spice, light aged notes of dried dates, a salty hint of soy sauce and a touch of gravelly minerality. The overall feel is quite old, but still pretty balanced, thanks to the moderately high acidity and powdery medium tannins. The finish is dry, long and savory with a little bit of tannic grip and tertiary flavors of soy sauce, some dried cranberries, a little bit of pruney fruit, light raisiny tones, a hint of beef jerky and a touch of leather.

Compared to my previous taste of this wine (3 years ago) when it tasted somewhat evolved yet surprisingly youthful for its age, this bottle instead tasted very tertiary and fully evolved. As a whole, this wine was either at its peak or already slightly past it. The overall feel is quite balanced, but the fruit is lacking all youthful energy, making the wine feel like it is getting quite dull and tired. This is thoroughly enjoyable, but unlike the previous bottle of 1996 Barbacarlo I had, this feels like what it is - an old, rustic Oltrepò Pavese. (88 pts.)

Deep, evolved and only somewhat translucent reddish-maroon color with a dark, syrupy core. Restrained and rather savory nose with fine-tuned and quite tertiary aromas of leather, some dry old fruit tones, a little bit of phenolic spice and light smoky tones, a hint of ripe black cherry and a touch of dried herbs. The wine is complex, quite tertiary and medium-bodied on the palate with tertiary flavors of sour cherry bitterness, some crunchy cranberry, a little bit of leathery funk, light sanguine notes of iron, a phenolic hint of smoke and a salty touch of soy sauce. The structure relies more on the quite high acidity than on the resolved, silky medium tannins. The harmonious finish is long, somewhat grippy and quite tertiary with savory flavors of gamey meat, some smoky tones, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light bretty notes of old leather and a hint of crunchy cranberry.

A very developed, complex and enjoyably savory vintage of Barbacarlo at its peak. Shows the classic combination of rustic finesse, bright savory fruit and balanced structure typical of the best Lino Maga wines. Most likely won’t benefit from further aging, but will keep for many more years. Drink or keep. Recommended. (92 pts.)

Somewhat evolved reddish-maroon color that is still surprisingly youthful and vibrant for the age. A pale yellow-orange rim. At first the wine is aromatically a bit restrained, but it opens up to show a developed, seductive and somewhat sweetish bouquet with rather tertiary aromas of raisins, some funky phenolic tones, a little bit of pruney dark fruit, light lambic-like notes of leather and barnyard, a hint of wizened red cherries and a touch of earthy spice. Lots of everything here. The wine is dry, moderately full-bodied and surprisingly concentrated on the palate with intense flavors of ripe black cherries, some bretty leathery notes and barnyard funk, a little bit of peppery spice, light bitter notes of sour cherries, a phenolic hint of Band-Aid and a touch of ripe red gooseberry. The overall feel is very balanced and quite structured with the moderately high acidity and ample yet quite resolved, powdery tannins. The finish is very long, gently grippy and savory with complex, evolved flavors of meaty umami, peppery spice, some bretty leathery notes and stable floor funk, light volatile notes of balsamico, a hint of dark plummy fruit and a touch of raisins. The wine ends on a rich, layered and somewhat grippy note - as the tannins slowly pile up on the gums.

An outstanding vintage of Barbacarlo at its peak. This wine has obviously been quite a powerhouse in its youth, and it still retains quite a bit of vigor despite its advanced age and tertiary flavors. The overall feel is very harmonious with no single element overwhelming another. There’s quite a bit of that rustic funk that is typical of Lino Maga, but still the wine comes across just as a traditional, old-school wine with beautiful finesse to it - nothing particularly weird or excessively natty. I doubt that the wine is going to benefit from any further aging, but most likely it won’t be falling apart anytime soon either. While the wine was a bit closed at first and it took some time for the wine to show its best in the glass, this ultimately turned out to be probably the best wine in the tasting. Extraordinary stuff. Very highly recommended. (97 pts.)

Pale, thin and fully translucent brick-orange color with a straw-yellow rim. Old, somewhat dried-up and quite leathery nose with complex tertiary aromas of beef stew, some developed creamy tones, a little bit of strawberry jam, light metallic notes of rusted iron, a hint of meringue and a sweet touch of marmaladey dark fruit. The wine is ripe, sweet-toned and rather tertiary on the palate with a moderately full body and mellow yet wonderfully complex flavors of wizened black cherries, some dried figs, some plummy tones, a little bit of meaty umami, light floral notes of dried flowers, a sweet, marmaladey hint of raspberry jam and a touch of tobacco. The overall feel is silky smooth with the gentle, fully resolved medium tannins, but the noticeably high acidity keeps the wine wonderfully in balance. The finish is long, complex and very savory with tertiary flavors of meaty umami, some wizened dark plums, a little bit of raisiny character, light earthy tones, a balsamic hint of VA and a touch of earth.

A wonderfully aged, tertiary and very complex Barbacarlo that is still drinking wonderfully, at +40 years of age! In a side-by-side comparison, I preferred the exceptional 1989 vintage, but only by a small margin. Furthermore, this wine doesn’t seem to exhibit the funkier tones typical of Lino Maga wines, which makes me wonder whether the wine was cleaner in its youth as well or if the funkier qualities either disappear or get overwhelmed by the tertiary fruit characteristics as time passes? Who knows. All the same, this was a wonderful wine that was in a terrific shape for its age. At its peak and won’t develop any further from here, so no need to age it any further. (96 pts.)

Posted from CellarTracker

1 Like
3

Now we need a BAMA MAGA tasting!

Some might appreciate that humor, others perhaps not!

Awesome post, Otto.

4

I was wondering which one comes first: a MAGA post or a comment from you.

Didn’t see this coming, but was not disappointed.

[highfive.gif]

5

Double-down or go home baby!

You know BAMA is also short for University of Alabama, right? My kid goes there.

So I’m now searching for this wine. Otto is definitely a major enabler…

6

Thank you, Otto

Allow me this, in french (at least, we do not agree on the 1979) :

L’azienda agricola Barbacarlo
Oltrepo Pavese Rosso
Vendredi 18 mars 2016


La dégustation est proposée puis commentée par Maxime France (La Commedia del Vino) pour les 2 séances.
Photos et mise en page par Philippe Ricard.

Quelques commentaires de contexte :
Toutes les bouteilles ont été récemment achetées directement au domaine par Maxime France (importateur de vins italiens - La Commedia del Vino), puis stockées dans des conditions optimales ; pour les besoins de la dégustation, elles ont été placées dans une cave de service, à température adaptée, verticalement, 6 jours avant notre rendez-vous.
Cette dégustation s’est déroulée en deux séances : l’après-midi à 14h15 puis le soir à 19h30.
Ce compte-rendu détaille les impressions sur l’ensemble des séances, Maxime ayant dégusté les vins à l’ouverture puis après aération.
Entre autres causes, cette aération de 5 heures (dans la bouteille rebouchée en position verticale) peut expliquer les variations dans les appréciations.
Les vins sont dégustés sans présentation à l’aveugle.
Les verres utilisés sont les « Expert » de Spiegelau.
DS : Didier Sanchez - LG : Laurent Gibet - PR : Philippe Ricard - CDC : Cécile Debroas Castaigns - MS : Miguel Sennoun - FM : François Martinez - PS : Pierre Simon - MF : Maxime France.





Ordre de dégustation
(Nombre total de dégustateurs : 16)



\

  1. Provincia Di Pavia Rosso : Azienda Agricola Barbacarlo “Barbacarlo” 2010
    A l’ouverture : DS16,5+ - PR16,5+ - PS14 - MF16,5
    Après 5 heures d’aération : DS16,5+ - LG16 - CDC15,5 - MS16,5+ - FM15 - MF16
    Le nez s’ouvre sur des notes juvéniles mais déjà complexes de fruits noirs (mûre, cassis), de poivre, de fleurs ainsi qu’une pointe mentholée. La bouche présente un léger pétillement mais conserve cette spontanéité fruitée pressentie à l’olfaction. Le vin se montre très puissant, résonnant, malgré un grain tannique un poil rustique à ce stade. Ce 2010 semble encore en gestation mais pourrait faire une très belle bouteille d’ici une vingtaine d’années !! Il ne variera pas de façon notable entre les deux séances.


    \
  2. Provincia Di Pavia Rosso : Azienda Agricola Barbacarlo “Barbacarlo” 2007
    A l’ouverture : DS14,5/15 - PR14,5/15 - PS12 - MF14
    Après 5 heures d’aération : DS14,5 - LG14,5 - CDC14 - MS13,5/14 - FM14 - MF14
    Le nez se montre plus confit, presque surmûr, avec une légère pointe animale. La bouche présente un caractère doucereux lié à la présence nette de sucres résiduels. Elle manque quelque peu de ressort et de dynamisme et cette lascivité exacerbée ne confère pas au vin un équilibre très satisfaisant. Le soir, le vin apparaît plus dissocié qu’à l’ouverture, celui-ci terminant sur une note amère décalée. Un équilibre d’ensemble qui ne convainc pas sur ce millésime visiblement très solaire.


    \
  3. Provincia Di Pavia Rosso : Azienda Agricola Barbacarlo “Barbacarlo” 2005
    A l’ouverture : DS16 - PR15,5/16+ - PS13 - MF16
    Après 5 heures d’aération : DS16,5 - LG16 - CDC16,5 - MS16,5 - FM16 - MF16,5
    Le nez, un peu réduit au départ, s’ouvre rapidement sur des fragrances florales rappelant la rose, la pivoine, mais le spectre aromatique ne s’arrête pas là et l’on sent poindre d’élégantes senteurs d’agrumes, de cuir et de tapenade d’une grande complexité. La bouche se développe en un sillage élancé et frais dans lequel nous retrouvons les agrumes. La trame tannique est bien là, présente, peut-être encore un peu saillante à ce stade. Le vin ne présentera pas d’évolution notable entre l’après midi et le soir. Une belle bouteille au caractère aromatique déjà envoûtant et qui devrait gagner en élégance à l’évolution.


    \
  4. Oltrepo Pavese Rosso : Azienda Agricola Barbacarlo “Vigna Montebuono” 2004
    A l’ouverture : DS15 - PR14,5 - PS14 - MF15
    Après 5 heures d’aération : DS16,5 - LG16,5 - CDC15,5 - MS17 - FM16 - MF16,5
    Olfaction animale à l’ouverture qui s’épure à l’aération pour développer des notes de fruits noirs. Le soir les parfums prendront une nouvelle dimension pour lorgner vers les herbes aromatiques (estragon notamment). En bouche le vin est porté par une trame tannique très présente, presque rustique à ce stade. Le vin possède néanmoins beaucoup de fond et la dégustation du soir viendra le confirmer, celui-ci semblant s’être détendu à l’aération pour devenir superbe de jeunesse.


    \
  5. Oltrepo Pavese Rosso : Azienda Agricola Barbacarlo “Vigna Montebuono” 2002
    A l’ouverture : DS13 - PR(13) - PS12 - MF(13)
    Après 5 heures d’aération : DS13 - LG14,5 - CDC13 - MS13,5 - FM13,5 - MF(13)
    Nez désagréable évoquant la fourrure et marqué par la présence d’une (trop) forte acidité volatile. Le soir l’olfaction laissera poindre un côté poussiéreux “inquiétant”. En bouche le vin est marqué par une acidité stridente, devenant en plus sèche et dure le soir. Une bouteille qui semble pervertie par une “volatile” décalée…pas de plaisir en l’état.


    \
  6. Oltrepo Pavese Rosso : Azienda Agricola Barbacarlo “Vina Barbacarlo” 2002
    A l’ouverture : DS16,5 - PR16 - PS15 - MF16,5
    Après 5 heures d’aération : DS17 - LG17 - CDC17 - MS16,5 - FM16,5 - MF17
    La robe se pare d’une teinte orangée dépouillée. Le nez est pur, sur des senteurs de fruits frais et d’épices. Il ne se départira pas de ce caractère séducteur à l’aération. La bouche est très fine, équilibrée, tant l’après-midi que le soir. Soutenue par des tannins subtils, elle s’étire longuement avec une grande élégance. Un très beau vin alliant magistralement charme et finesse.


    \
  7. Oltrepo Pavese Rosso : Azienda Agricola Barbacarlo “Vigna Montebuono” 2001
    A l’ouverture : DS15,5 - PR15,5 - PS15,5 - MF16
    Après 5 heures d’aération : DS16 - LG16,5 - CDC16 - MS15,5/16 - FM16,5 - MF16
    L’olfaction s’ouvre sur des effluves complexes rappelant la cerise, la framboise mais aussi le poivre, le quinquina, les aiguilles de pins. Le vin gagnera encore un supplément de complexité à l’aération. En bouche ; une fois passé le léger “frizzante” initial qui peut surprendre les palais non initiés ; la pureté et la fraîcheur préservée du fruit soutenues par une fine acidité poudrée de tannins subtils, rendent ce vin émouvant en diable ! Une belle réussite qui, tout en se laissant approcher, semble encore à l’aube de sa vie.


    \
  8. Oltrepo Pavese Rosso : Azienda Agricola Barbacarlo “Vina Barbacarlo” 2001
    A l’ouverture : DS16,5 - PR16,5/17 - PS14 - MF16,5/17
    Après 5 heures d’aération : DS16,5 - LG16 - CDC16,5 - MS16 - FM17 - MF17
    Nez très pur, complexe, à la fois floral et balsamique, envoûtant par son éclat et sa jouvence. La bouche se déploie sur un registre d’une insigne finesse et de grande élégance. Portée par des goûts très “naturels” d’écorce d’orange et de réglisse, ils prolongent le vin en un sillage touchant de sincérité et d’évidence! Magnifique!


    \
  9. Oltrepo Pavese Rosso : Azienda Agricola Barbacarlo “Vigna Montebuono” 2000
    A l’ouverture : DS14 - PR14 - PS13 - MF13,5/14
    Après 5 heures d’aération : DS13 - LG12 - CDC13 - MSED? - FM13,5 - MF13
    Le nez revêt un profil évolué et solaire sur des notes rappelant le laurier et la résine. On descend de plusieurs crans en terme de complexité et de finesse ! En bouche, le vin apparaît très marqué par le côté “frizzante” et très mûr (à la limite de la surmaturité). Le gaz vient toutefois rafraîchir et équilibrer quelque peu la présence de sucres résiduels. Il sera estompé le soir rendant, par la même, le vin moins intéressant. Un profil décalé, décadent, déroutant mais pas convaincant au final.


    \
  10. Oltrepo Pavese Rosso : Azienda Agricola Barbacarlo “Montebuono” 1997
    A l’ouverture : DS16,5 - PR16,5 - PS16 - MF16,5/17
    Après 5 heures d’aération : DS17 - LG16,5/17 - CDC16,5 - MS17 - FM16,5 - MF17
    Le nez apparait très jeune, au caractère presque ligérien, évoquant la feuille de cassis et le “bouillon d’escargot” des plus beaux vins de Chinon ! La bouche est fraîche, dotée d’une belle qualité tannique, vivante et énergique en diable ! Peu de variations entre après-midi et soir pour une très belle bouteille encore pleine de jeunesse et à l’avenir prometteur.


    \
  11. Oltrepo Pavese Rosso : Azienda Agricola Barbacarlo “Barbacarlo” 1997
    A l’ouverture : DSED - PR(non noté) - PSED - MFED
    Après 5 heures d’aération : DSED - LG14 - CDCED - MSED - FM13 - MFED
    Olfaction prématurément évoluée. La bouche apparaît usée et manquant étonnamment de relief. L’échantillon surprend et semble probablement défectueux.


    \
  12. Oltrepo Pavese Rosso : Azienda Agricola Barbacarlo “Ronchetto” 1996
    A l’ouverture : DS14,5 - PR15 - PS13 - MF15
    Après 5 heures d’aération : DS14 - LG14 - CDC14 - MS13,5 - FM13,5 - MF14
    Nez peu exubérant mais net et frais, rappelant les fruits noirs (mûre, cassis) ainsi qu’une note d’écorce d’orange. La bouche est portée par une acidité présente et des tannins de grande qualité. Le vin, bien que limité en termes de puissance et densité, devrait avantageusement faire son office à table avec une nourriture adaptée : un filet de chevreuil sauce “grand veneur” par exemple…


    \
  13. Oltrepo Pavese Rosso : Azienda Agricola Barbacarlo “Barbacarlo” 1996
    A l’ouverture : DS15,5 - PR16 - PS14 - MF16
    Après 5 heures d’aération : DS15,5 - LG14,5 - CDC14,5 - MS16 - FM14,5 - MF16
    Le bouquet s’ouvre sur des senteurs très pures de feuilles de cassis et de rose fraîche. Une nouvelle fois nous sommes surpris par le caractère juvénile de ces parfums. La bouche porte la marque fraîche du millésime, les goûts sont “froids” (réglisse, groseille, framboise) mais le fruit est là, devant, présent, vivant!


    \
  14. Oltrepo Pavese Rosso : Azienda Agricola Barbacarlo “Barbacarlo” 1994
    A l’ouverture : DS17 - PR17 - PS17 - MF17
    Après 5 heures d’aération : DS17 - LG16 - CDC16,5 - MS17 - FM15,5 - MF17
    Le nez de ce vin nous emporte immédiatement dans un tourbillon complexe d’effluves variés rappelant les épices orientales, le cuir, le cigare, le quinquina, le foin. En bouche, le vin est très présent, imprégnant mais tout en subtilité, jamais “rentre dedans” ! Il se présente à la fois élégant et suave, engageant, nous suggérant malicieusement de nous resservir une lampée ! Un vin envoûtant et hédoniste, irrésistible!


    \
  15. Oltrepo Pavese Rosso : Azienda Agricola Barbacarlo “Montebuono” 1991
    A l’ouverture : DS17,5/18 - PR17,5 - PS16 - MF17,5
    Après 5 heures d’aération : DS17,5 - LG16,5 - CDC16 - MS17,5 - FM16,5 - MF17
    Le bouquet se montre instantanément plein d’éclat, pénétrant, avec des notes fumées, organiques, non sans rappeler certains des plus beaux vins de Pessac-Léognan ! La bouche est très racée, séveuse, dense. Son équilibre est inébranlable, campé sur une trame tannique magistrale et une jeunesse insolente! Un grand vin complet et intense…


    \
  16. Oltrepo Pavese Rosso : Azienda Agricola Barbacarlo “Montebuono” 1990
    A l’ouverture : DS16 - PR16,5/17 - PS13,5 - MF17
    Après 5 heures d’aération : DS16 - LG16 - CDC16 - MS16,5/17 - FM17 - MF16,5
    Le nez revêt à nouveau ce caractère organique complété par des notes de tabac et de cuir. La bouche est, elle aussi, très racée avec des saveurs rappelant le thé fumé. L’équilibre est lui aussi magnifique avec, peut-être, un tout petit peu moins de densité que son cadet, mais on chipote ! Encore un superbe vin fascinant de jeunesse.


    \
  17. Oltrepo Pavese Rosso : Azienda Agricola Barbacarlo “Barbacarlo” 1990
    A l’ouverture : DS16,5 - PR17 - PS15 - MF17
    Après 5 heures d’aération : DS16 - LG15 - CDC14,5 - MS16 - FM16 - MF16
    Nez plus baroque sur les épices orientales, le tabac et le camphre. La bouche est encore légèrement “frizzante” à l’ouverture mais le fruit et la fraîcheur sont vraiment en avant. Le vin revêt un caractère suave, langoureux, souligné par une fine présence tannique. Un profil qui tranche avec les “Montebuono”, plus hédoniste sûrement mais moins de fond également … Ce Barbacarlo ne laisse cependant pas indifférent et possède de séduisants atouts.


    \
  18. Oltrepo Pavese Rosso : Azienda Agricola Barbacarlo “Montebuono” 1989
    A l’ouverture : DS16 - PR16 - PS17 - MF16
    Après 5 heures d’aération : DS16 - LG15 - CDC15 - MS16,5 - FM16,5 - MF16
    Le profil olfactif est à nouveau plus noir, plus en retenue, plus “janséniste” dans son caractère organique et végétal/résiné rappelant l’aiguille de pins et le basilic. La bouche se présente plus en “demi-corps” que celle de ses cadets mais ne se départit pas de sa finesse tannique et de son équilibre d’ensemble. Un vin qui sera, sans aucun doute, mis en valeur à table…


    \
  19. Oltrepo Pavese Rosso : Azienda Agricola Barbacarlo “Barbacarlo” 1989
    A l’ouverture : DS15,5/16 - PR16 - PS15 - MF16
    Après 5 heures d’aération : DS15 - LG13 - CDC14 - MS14,5 - FM13 - MF(14)
    L’initiale olfaction musquée et animale s’estompe au profit de senteurs de fraise et de tabac. La bouche est encore marquée par la présence de gaz, on y retrouve néanmoins la suavité du cru même si le soir le vin apparaîtra plus incertain que l’après-midi nous amenant à nous interroger sur la netteté de l’échantillon.


    \
  20. Oltrepo Pavese Rosso : Azienda Agricola Barbacarlo “Montebuono” 1986
    A l’ouverture : DS15 - PR15,5 - PS16 - MF15
    Après 5 heures d’aération : DS15 - LG16 - CDC16 - MS15,5 - FM16 - MF15,5
    Bouquet discret rappelant la viande boucanée, la cendre, l’âtre froid. La bouche est marquée par une acidité soutenue, presque mordante, avec une structure en “demi-corps”. Je lui adjoindrais bien un plat en sauce, pourquoi pas un osso bucco (c’est original !), pour sublimer sa fine trame tannique et sa fausse fragilité.


    \
  21. Oltrepo Pavese Rosso : Azienda Agricola Barbacarlo “Barbacarlo” 1983
    A l’ouverture : DS16 - PR16,5/17 - PS13 - MF16
    Après 5 heures d’aération : DS15,5 - LG13 - CDC14 - MS16 - FM14,5 - MF16
    Bouquet floral rappelant les fleurs séchées, le “pot-pourri” mais aussi le cumin en résonance orientale … La bouche est marquée par la présence d’un sucre résiduel qui peut déconcerter mais qui, au delà du caractère langoureux et décadent qu’il confère au vin, lui donne aussi un côté attachant pour peu que l’on lâche prise pour se laisser embarquer par son message singulier…


    \
  22. Oltrepo Pavese Rosso : Azienda Agricola Barbacarlo “Montebuono” 1982
    A l’ouverture : DS16 - PR16/16,5 - PS15 - MF16,5
    Après 5 heures d’aération : DS16 - LG15,5 - CDC16 - MS15,5 - FM15,5 - MF16,5
    Bouquet plus évolué rappelant le tabac, le cèpe séché ainsi que des fragrances plus exotiques autour de notes mellifères et de rhum. La bouche, toujours bâtie autour d’un équilibre frais, montre une nouvelle fois beaucoup de sève et de race. Une autre belle bouteille de ce cru fort recommandable !


    \
  23. Oltrepo Pavese Rosso : Azienda Agricola Barbacarlo “Ronchetto di Maga” 1979
    A l’ouverture : DS15 - PR14,5/15 - PS16 - MF15
    Après 5 heures d’aération : DS15,5 - LG15,5 - CDC14 - MS14 - FM16,5 - MF15,5
    Le nez est encore très jeune et finalement peu nuancé au vu de son âge ! La bouche est à l’avenant, très (trop?) jeune quand on attendait plus de patine et de complexité. Un vin plus simple aromatiquement et structurellement mais qui est apparu plus intéressant le soir que l’après-midi.





    Conclusion

L’idée d’une dégustation de ce domaine historique de l’Oltrepo Pavese, région viticole moins médiatique, risquait de constituer une expérience intéressante. En effet, l’Azienda Agricola “Barbacarlo”, du nom de son vin éponyme, apparaît comme une rareté, voire une curiosité ! Comment parler de “Barbacarlo” sans évoquer Lino Maga, “Il Commendatore”, qui, à plus de 80 printemps, est toujours à la barre du domaine, épaulé désormais par son fils Giuseppe. Le bonhomme est espiègle et son œil vif et malicieux nous donne à penser qu’il se doute que ce qu’il va nous faire déguster risque de nous surprendre! Le personnage est intemporel, il fut l’ami d’une grande figure (et très grande plume) du monde viticole italien en la personne de Luigi Veronelli qui adorait “Barbacarlo” et l’a toujours soutenu dans sa quête singulière d’une certaine idée du grand vin. Cette conception est d’ailleurs au final relativement simple, “genuina e contadina” (naturelle et paysanne), mais comme toutes les choses d’apparence simples, elles exigent savoir-faire, expérience et…talent pour être réussies.
Lino Maga produit des vins originaux, qui peuvent surprendre, que l’on peut ne pas aimer mais qui ont le mérite de ne pas laisser indifférent l’amateur ou le buveur lambda qui croisera leur route. Il faut reconnaître que les vins qui questionnent, interpellent, aiguisent la curiosité ne sont finalement pas si nombreux que cela…
Et les vins justement…ils sont sincères, directs, élaborés dans le souci de ne jamais trahir le consommateur en essayant d’être, chaque année, le reflet de ce que la nature a bien voulu donner. Aussi, ils peuvent se montrer très différents d’une année sur l’autre, plus ou moins “frizzante”, avec parfois des sucres résiduels ou totalement secs, comme on vous le disait, ils ouvrent un nouvel univers vinique à l’amateur (français) peu habitué à ces équilibres !
Le Barbacarlo est produit à partir des cépages Croatina, Uva rara et Vespolina (appelée Ughetta dans l’Oltrepo Pavese). Montebuono est du même assemblage complété par une touche subtile (5% environ) de Barbera. Ils sont mis en bouteille très rapidement, plus précisément au printemps suivant la vendange, ce qui va participer à la singularité de leur caractère. En effet, cette mise rapide se fait, parfois, alors que les sucres ne sont pas tout à fait terminés. Les vins peuvent alors légèrement refermenter en bouteille et présenter une légère écume à l’ouverture, sans que ce caractère ne soit, cependant, systématique. Comme nous le disions, ces vins peuvent décontenancer (surtout dans leur jeune âge) mais se révèlent souvent de vraies belles surprises au vieillissement. Il est d’ailleurs intéressant de noter que les “élevages courts” peuvent aussi générer des vins à (très) fort potentiel de vieillissement et à l’éclat fruité inusable !

Les 3 crus présentés lors de cette dégustation présentent des profils très différents. Le Ronchetto, qui n’est plus produit depuis le millésime 1996 car la parcelle était trop difficile à travailler (et peut-être pas la plus qualitative?), n’apparaît que deux fois (1996 et 1979). Nous focaliserons donc plus en détails sur Barbacarlo et Montebuono qui sont aujourd’hui les emblèmes de l’Azienda. Tous deux présentent des profils très différents. Barbacarlo se montre “baroque”, luxuriant, parfois décadent quand Montebuono apparaît plus austère, un brin plus rustique en jeunesse mais doté d’un potentiel de vieillissement incroyable! Aussi, avec l’âge, les différences se gomment et la race “froide” de Montebuono se révèle enfin !
Parmi les réussites majeures, on mettra en avant Barbacarlo sur les millésimes 2002, 2001 et 1994 et Montebuono en 1997 (au profil très ligérien!), 1991 très racé et d’une jeunesse folle et 1990. De très belles réussites encore pour Barbacarlo en 2010, 2005 et 1990 et Montebuono en 2004, 2001 et 1989. Les réelles grosses déceptions sont relativement peu nombreuses au final. Pour Barbacarlo on citera 1997 et 1989 et pour Montebuono 2002 et 2000. La dégustation s’est globalement montrée d’un très bon niveau, le plaisir étant souvent au rendez-vous.

Le voyage dans la galaxie “Barbacarlo” s’est donc révélé particulièrement intéressant et instructif. Il a permis de découvrir, d’apprivoiser et parfois d’aimer ces vins attachants, sans concessions et dotés d’une forte personnalité. Leur naturel ingénu ainsi que leur caractère “noblement paysan” ont ceci de rares qu’ils permettent à l’amateur de découvrir un univers nouveau. Ils font bouger les lignes de nos repères conventionnels, nous interpellent et, pour peu que l’on sache accepter leur singulier message, nous apprennent à revenir en vin comme l’on reviendrait en enfance : vierges de toutes références connues. L’âme de ces vins réside aussi dans leurs imperfections, mais il en va des vins comme des hommes, ce sont elles qui les font exister dans leur originalité. Ne changez rien Signori Maga !!!

7

Thanks for your input, Laurent.

However, I did not see the same wine in your list. We tasted Barbacarlo 1979, you apparently tasted Ronchetto 1979. That could be one of the reasons why our views might differ.

8

Oops, you are perfectly right, Otto …

9

Awesome tasting notes both of you! It’s always a real
pleasure to discover new and obscure wineries based on your extensive reviews.
I’ve ordered a ‘94 Barbacarlo and a ‘97 from Troppo Giovane in Amsterdam, am very much looking forward to trying them. Any tips of retailers in Europe with further vintages?

10

Thank you … you will tell us …

The report with pics, specillay the “robes” (Firefox better than IE) :