A Neophyte's Inquiry Of Cedric Bouchard

I’m new to Bouchard’s Champagnes. But I’ve made a commitment to the tune of 36 bottles spread out over different wines from multiple vintages. I get the single vineyard, single variety aspect of his winemaking but what has me puzzled is how quickly after the vintage date they come to market. And I seem to remember something to the effect that he considers the bubbles a distraction. He clearly has an atypical vision of what Champagne should be. So, is he a Burgundy producer that just happens to be stuck in Champagne? Are drinking his wines upon release or shortly after simply a waste? Is there a sweet spot for holding the wines (obviously contingent on the vintage) when his Champagnes really begin to blossom into something special? Or should his offerings simple be enjoyed in a way that is not typical of the majority of Champagnes? Thanks.

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To get a better sense of him, I’d recommend picking up Bursting Bubbles and reading the Bouchard chapter and/or some of William Kelley’s pieces (hopefully he’ll chime in).

In regards to when to enjoy, it’s al relative to your tastes. I absolutely love the purity and vibrancy of the fruit in his wines soon post-release but have had very enjoyable experiences with the few older bottles I’ve been able to source at non-astronomical prices. I haven’t had anything pre-2009 though, so can’t speak to the super long-term. They certainly evolve and age with grace in the short term though.

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I visited his winery/home about 11 years back, and your recollection is correct about the bubbles. (He actually recommending decanting his wines overnight in order “to try a TRULY amazing wine”…In addition, he specifically DID indicate that his real passion is Burgundy and he wished he could make Burgundy. At the time, he was experimenting with non-sparkling “Coteaux Champenois” wines, which we sampled. Regarding the aging curve, I’ve recently consumed bottles picked up from that same time period (2009-ish) and they are terrific and still taste youthful…so certainly no RUSH to consume them, though I can’t speak to whether/how they really evolve with significant time. That said, he indicated that he desired for all of his magnums to be aged, and he wrapped them in paper specifically to encourage holders to wait/hold off on opening them…He believed they were ageworthy.

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Have had various vintages back to 09, find the Val vilaine great value, don’t think they really shut down ever.

I have some posts on the forum about how his wines age (where I argue that they age like still wines and not like most Champagnes: that’s to day, they gain in nuance and texture but don’t transform with toasty Maillard-derived aromas that define most mature Champagnes). I also have this article: Robert Parker Wine Advocate which was free-to-read for a period but I’m afraid it seems it’s now back behind the pay wall.

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You certainly made a big investment in a wine you are unsure about! Why not pop a couple of those bottles now to find out how you like them yourself?

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We could end up buying them for cheap on Commerce Corner flirtysmile

For my tastes, nearly all of his wines improve with age - say 5-7 years after release (and perhaps beyond). The exceptions for me have been the much hyped Boloree and Creux d’Enfer, which I have preferred “fresh” over ~6-year old bottles.

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For what’s it’s worth, here’s him talking about Ursules and Bolorée:

And here is me talking about them a bit:

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Not something that I generally do at this stage of the game but I must admit being caught up in a combination of the hype, widespread availability, and attractive pricing. The only one that I’ve had so far is the 2014 La Haute Lemble. I found it to be pleasant but uninspiring. So, I didn’t want to open any more if time is their friend. Thus the inquiries here.

Thanks for the book recommendation; I’ll be sure to get it.

I love their wines and it’s my #1 holding in champagnes but if you’re looking for a big house style you won’t find it here - if you’re looking for that grower style of searing acidity you also won’t find it here. It’s a really unique take on champagne that I enjoy immensely.

Like william said, when it ages you don’t get that nuttiness. In youth there isn’t the brioche/yeasty nature. It’s really like still wine with some bubbles.

I sourced some 2005 Ursules from beaune and I popped one - the way it evolved was unlike other champagne.

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Kind of difficult to decide just based on a sample of 1. For me this was a wine I immediately loved just because it was exactly so different than other champagne producers. Doubt holding these will transform into something more unique, as based on the WK reports. If anything, they become more Bouchard-like. The poster who suggested putting them on commerce corner is only half-joking. You could sell these in a hot minute if they are not your thing.

I get it though, have bought many wines through the years that were hyped in various places, only to discover that they really did not appeal to me in the long haul (many new worldish Bordeaux of the early aughts for example)

SNAP,
I opened the same wine last night, decanted it for a couple of hours and it was very very nice with a smoked chicken sandwich, my biggest holding of Champagne is Roses de Jeanne and I love them for their vinous qualities and treat them like a wine

1st rule of Cedric Bouchard is don’t talk about Cedric Bouchard :slight_smile:

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It’s too late…get them now, because they aren’t coming back to earth

Acquired 2 ‘08 vilaines this year. Drank 1, divine. Have the other in the cellar but it calls my name daily.

Marta in Manhattan had a great portfolio of Bouchard wines at very fair prices. Have since moved away so unsure of the list now but always liked that place.

Yes, Marta’s is a great place for champagne generally. I have little experience with Bouchard, after a one-time purchase (Inflorescence?) hyped by the wine store, which I found somewhat closed and a little screechy. But obviously, not much track record and it was a while back. Other producers, closer to Selosses’ style, I prefer.

Michael,

This has been discussed on many other threads and people have different opinions. I love Cedric’s wines, but don’t go as ga-ga for his Blanc de Blancs as I do his Pinot Noirs. The Chardonnay - La Haut-Lemblé is enjoyable, but not at the level of the Pinot Noirs for me. La Bolorée, which is his Pinot Blanc, just isn’t in my wheelhouse, but I am rarely a fan of Pinot Blanc in Champagne. My favorites are Les Ursules - Pinot Noir and La Creux d’Enfer - Pinot Noir Rosé de Saignée. The Val Vilaine - Pinot Noir is an incredible value for the money. As for aging, and this was mentioned above by a few folks, I don’t find the wines really evolve. They don’t fall apart or go downhill, but IMO they don’t really develop extra complexity either. Does that matter? Depends on what you are looking for. On the bright side, many of the wines are drinking quite similar today to how they were five or ten years ago. That is not a bad thing as you know what you are getting and have a wide, peak drinking window.

I will add that I can still remember the big smile on my face the first time I had one of Cedric’s wines. It was the 2002 Les Ursules in late 2006 and it really excited me. Likewise, I still get goosebumps remembering the first time I had his Creux d’Enfer (2004 vintage) - so much delicate power yet deep mystery in the wine.

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I was able to get a bottle of the RDJ no1 last year. Is there or will there be a RDJ no2?

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