In Jura there is a bunch of producers (Labet, Ganevat, Bonard among others) doing a style of chardonnay thats is often referred to as burgundian(?). I am having trouble making the connection.
The jura style includes long time on the lees using old or neutral barrels. They can have a bit of matchstick reduction, usually very prominent citrusy (mostly lemon) aromas, with some minerality and high acidity. What other non Jura producers does chardonnay in this style?
Per⊠many of the Jura Chards were traditionally made âsous voileâ (under the veil) in which the barrels are not topped up all the way and a veil of flor yeast forms on the
top. This typically gives the wine a slight nutty/flor yeast/sherry character. But in more recent yrs, they have been making Chard in the âouilleâ style: https://punchdrink.com/articles/ouille-the-jura-wines-nobodys-telling-you-about-tissot-overnoy-and-labet/,
especially some made by producers from down in Burgundy. I believe that that is what youâre referring to.
Tom
I think that most of the time it is just a lazy comparison. Juraâs ouille style has only gained real traction and popularity more recently, so it is easy to refer it to its famous neighbour using the same grape variety. Its just a way to say its not made in the oxidative styleâŠ
I think itâs less about non-oxidative and more about trying to characterize the overall image of the wines. To say something is âBurgundianâ in style has come to mean, whether completely truthfully or not, showing restraint in winemaking and âletting the vineyard speakâ. People have been using âBurgundianâ for years in a broad sense to say a wine made in a way that is supposed to be more subtle and deft than a wine that pushes power or expression forward. Most often itâs used as sort of a signal that you can trust this wine to those seeking that sort of label.
âYou know, we always called each other goodfellas. Like youâd say to somebody: Youâre gonna like this guy, heâs all right. Heâs a goodfella. Heâs one of us.â
Iâve seen it multiple times referred to as an effect from the soil, as many producers insist these kinds of wines are made in a fully topped-up style, i.e. just like any producer outside Jura would make whites. Hereâs what Wink Lorchâs book on Jura says about the subject:
This is such an interesting discussion. Because there is no doubt that this is very often a characteristic part of the ouille wines. But then again i had some very clean young ones not showing it. But when they gain just a little age it always starts to shows more or less. Does it start showing at an early age because many Jura vignerons use low amount of sulfites or is it a part of the terrior.
I donât know. What i do know is that they are my favorite white wines!
This was in chapter on Jurassian soils. Liassic soils are found in relatively few Jurassian terroirs; most are other kinds of marl, clay or fossil-rich soil. Only wines grown exclusively on these Liassic soils seem to be wines that can exhibit these faux-oxidative qualities no matter what. Then again wines made from fruit grown on other soil types do not seem to develop these kinds of traits.
I have read the book and i am not going to argue with it as i am by no means an expert. But for me it has always seemed as much a house style, as terrior. A good example is Francois Rousset-Martinâs different expressionâs.
But i would have to check up on all vineyard holdings from all the producers I have tasted through to make any conclusion hehe.
Probably because Burgundy sells?
Look at all the products sold as âBurgundianâ: Etna rossos, Piedmont nebbiolo, California pinot noir and chardonnayâŠseeing as how Jura is only about 100 miles east of True Burgundy, they probably have a bigger claim to using the term than anybody else.
i think you would enjoy marc soyardâs chardonnays from dijon as well. maybe some coteaux champenois would fit the bill too; perhaps from jacques lassaigne.