Jura style chardonnay

In Jura there is a bunch of producers (Labet, Ganevat, Bonard among others) doing a style of chardonnay thats is often referred to as burgundian(?). I am having trouble making the connection.
The jura style includes long time on the lees using old or neutral barrels. They can have a bit of matchstick reduction, usually very prominent citrusy (mostly lemon) aromas, with some minerality and high acidity. What other non Jura producers does chardonnay in this style?

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i am not quite sure exactly what you are asking, but there are some producers in burgundy that are not using much sulphur at bottling
these wines can taste reminiscent of a jura chard. the maison en belles lies bourgogne blanc comes to mind. also, the 3 producers you mentioned are all quite different in their approach; not all ouillĂ© is the same. i don’t think i have ever had a wine from bornard that i would say was burgundian.

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Per
 many of the Jura Chards were traditionally made “sous voile” (under the veil) in which the barrels are not topped up all the way and a veil of flor yeast forms on the
top. This typically gives the wine a slight nutty/flor yeast/sherry character. But in more recent yrs, they have been making Chard in the “ouille” style:
https://punchdrink.com/articles/ouille-the-jura-wines-nobodys-telling-you-about-tissot-overnoy-and-labet/,
especially some made by producers from down in Burgundy. I believe that that is what you’re referring to.
Tom

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I think that most of the time it is just a lazy comparison. Jura’s ouille style has only gained real traction and popularity more recently, so it is easy to refer it to its famous neighbour using the same grape variety. Its just a way to say its not made in the oxidative style


This exactly. People normally say “Burgundian” because terms like ouillĂ© or floral don’t say much to the unitiated. However, quite few of these “Burgundian” Jura whites taste actually like Burgundy. They just taste more like Burgundy whites than the oxidative sous voile whites.

Bingo

plenty of ouillĂ© chards have oxidative notes verging in the direction of bruised apple. even ganevat can exhibit this character. the jura wines which i would most often confuse with burgundy see some new wood, such as tissot’s clos de la tour du curon.

I think it’s less about non-oxidative and more about trying to characterize the overall image of the wines. To say something is “Burgundian” in style has come to mean, whether completely truthfully or not, showing restraint in winemaking and ‘letting the vineyard speak’. People have been using ‘Burgundian’ for years in a broad sense to say a wine made in a way that is supposed to be more subtle and deft than a wine that pushes power or expression forward. Most often it’s used as sort of a signal that you can trust this wine to those seeking that sort of label.

“You know, we always called each other goodfellas. Like you’d say to somebody: You’re gonna like this guy, he’s all right. He’s a goodfella. He’s one of us.”

I’ve seen it multiple times referred to as an effect from the soil, as many producers insist these kinds of wines are made in a fully topped-up style, i.e. just like any producer outside Jura would make whites. Here’s what Wink Lorch’s book on Jura says about the subject:

The heavier clay-rich Liassic marls, which are so distinctively Jura, are also excellent for Chardonnay, and these soils seem to confer flavors that make many tasters comment on an oxidative character even when a wine is made in > ouillé > style (regularly topped up).

This is such an interesting discussion. Because there is no doubt that this is very often a characteristic part of the ouille wines. But then again i had some very clean young ones not showing it. But when they gain just a little age it always starts to shows more or less. Does it start showing at an early age because many Jura vignerons use low amount of sulfites or is it a part of the terrior.

I don’t know. What i do know is that they are my favorite white wines!

This was in chapter on Jurassian soils. Liassic soils are found in relatively few Jurassian terroirs; most are other kinds of marl, clay or fossil-rich soil. Only wines grown exclusively on these Liassic soils seem to be wines that can exhibit these faux-oxidative qualities no matter what. Then again wines made from fruit grown on other soil types do not seem to develop these kinds of traits.

I have read the book :slightly_smiling_face: and i am not going to argue with it as i am by no means an expert. But for me it has always seemed as much a house style, as terrior. A good example is Francois Rousset-Martin’s different expression’s.

But i would have to check up on all vineyard holdings from all the producers I have tasted through to make any conclusion hehe.

Probably because Burgundy sells? [wink.gif]
Look at all the products sold as “Burgundian”: Etna rossos, Piedmont nebbiolo, California pinot noir and chardonnay
seeing as how Jura is only about 100 miles east of True Burgundy, they probably have a bigger claim to using the term than anybody else.

Agreed, I think its more of a quick and lazy way of saying they are done in a non traditional oxidative Jura way.

But there is definelaty a new school Jura taste which i really enjoy and havent really found in Chardonnay from other regions.

Maison Valette in Burgundy does something smilar.
Maison en belles lies was mentioned before which i haven tried, any others?

i think you would enjoy marc soyard’s chardonnays from dijon as well. maybe some coteaux champenois would fit the bill too; perhaps from jacques lassaigne.