Holiday Wines - Gonon VV, Allemand, Dauvissat & Many Others

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RyanC
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Holiday Wines - Gonon VV, Allemand, Dauvissat & Many Others

#1 Post by RyanC »

We've consumed some delicious bottles over the holidays, many at a dinner last night at Pappas Steakhouse with a great friend who's also a great client (picture of the Pappas wines at the bottom). The Pappas list here still has some gems (like the Gonon VV for $360 and the Burlotto for $200). Here are some quick-hit TNs for wines from the past couple weeks.

'12 Pierre Peters 'Chetillons' - Brilliant wine. Intense and super vibrant with a fine mousse and piercing minerality. Vinous, finessed, and classy. (93)

Krug 168eme - Intense, rich, and chalky. Tightly wound but hyper concentrated. Needs time but all the pieces are here. For my palate, just a touch inferior to the 164 and 165 but better than the 166 or 167. Score is conservative as I expect this will age beautifully. (92)

Krug Rose 24eme - Fine red berries and a velvet texture. Good but, as always with Krug Rose, very pricey for the quality. (91)

'10 Gonon VV - Killer. My first VV and it's really a different animal than the normal Gonon St. Joe (which I like but I now find overpriced). Layers upon layers of the purest dark-berry Syrah fruit. So deep it's almost crunchy. Highly fragrant. Young but generous. WOTY candidate. Would love to put this alongside the '10 Jamet 'Cote Brune'. (96)

'12 Allemand Reynard - Another great experience with this wine. Dark and very deep but highly energetic. Very bold but elegantly textured. A touch more compact and reticent than the Gonon VV, which was opened alongside it. (94)

'14 X. Gerard Cote Rotie - I've had many delicious bottles of this wine. It's pretty restrained but has pure fruit and nice herbal undertones. (90)

'10 Roumier Chambolle - Astonishingly good. This absolutely screams 'CHAMBOLLE' with an explosive and beguiling Pinot nose and a palate that's pure silk. And while Burgundy can claim far grander wines, it's hard to recall a Burg that's more satisfying. A triumph. (94)

'10 Groffier Chambolle 'Sentiers' - Not as good as the Roumier but a delicious wine in its own right. A touch darker and more brooding, but the balance is still impeccable, and this has a nice spice kick. A bit weightier than the Roumier. I find it puzzling that Groffier gets relativley little fanfare. (93)

'13 Burlotto Monvigliero - I don't know what the going rate is for this wine, but it's probably worth it. Extremely fragrant with a palate this is still open-knit, complex, and expressive. Youthful and wild and complex but still impeccably balanced. Hard to recall a more impressive young Barolo. (95)

'96 Diamond Creek Cab ' Volcanic Hill' - This is still shockingly young. Tastes at least a decade younger than the vintage would suggests. It has dark fruits balanced structured tannins and enough lift to give the wine energy. But it's still a bit monolithic. I'd give this another decade, at least (91)

'09 Dauvissat 'Preuses' - This has come together really nicely. I never expected '09 white burgs to amount to much but this is pretty lovely. Doesn't have the acidity or extract of the '14, but the fruit is pure and it's in a nice place. (91)

'14 Dauvissat 'Preuses' - This is a dynamo and shows what '14 has to offer. Massive dry extract, bright citrus fruits, and an opulent impression. This will be legendary if it can avoid premox. (94)

'16 Ramonet Chassagne 'Morgeot' - Disappointing. The fruit is rich and concentrated but it's a bit flabby and while enjoyable in any objective sense, the overall impression is a touch flat. Shockingly, it was far inferior to the Kutch opened alongside it. (87)

'18 Kutch Chardonnay 'Trout Gulch' - I love Kutch Chard and this is another winner. Bright and dense with great proportion and balance. Better than the Ramonet. (90)

'18 Foillard Morgon Charmes 'Eponym' - Ripe and fleshy and generous and super satisfying. (89)

'19 Julian Haart Riesling 1000L - Bright and pure and great with food. But this is very acidic with sharp edges, so it's not gonna be everyone's cup of tea. (89)

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Re: Holiday Wines - Gonon VV, Allemand, Dauvissat & Many Others

#2 Post by Warren Taranow »

Ryan,
Great notes. You opened a lot of young wines!
We have a lot of wines in common, but I have yet to open any ('12 PP Chetillons, '12 Allemand, '14 X. Gerard, '13 Burlotto Monvigliero)
I have tried the Krug 168 and thought it was great but way too young as you noted. Some here find it's ready to go for their palate, but I have had a little bit of regret every time I've open one. I also like the Krug Rosé, but find many of the high end rosés are often great but not great enough to justify the tariff, in my mind (Taittinger Comtes Rose, Krug Rose, Billecart Cuvée Elisabeth). The exceptions for me have been a 2008 Deutz Rosé Amour de Deutz, and the NV Egly-Ouriet Rosé. Those are costly but amazing.
I've never had a Gonon VV. It's funny you lament the cost of the regular St. Joseph then open a VV, although the price you listed is pretty amazing!
I stopped buying the Dauvissat GC's due to the price, and due to some oxidation issues I've encountered. I still buy the 1ers.
Thanks for the notes!
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Re: Holiday Wines - Gonon VV, Allemand, Dauvissat & Many Others

#3 Post by RyanC »

Warren Taranow wrote: December 30th, 2020, 1:23 pm Ryan,
Great notes. You opened a lot of young wines!
We have a lot of wines in common, but I have yet to open any ('12 PP Chetillons, '12 Allemand, '14 X. Gerard, '13 Burlotto Monvigliero)
I have tried the Krug 168 and thought it was great but way too young as you noted. Some here find it's ready to go for their palate, but I have regret every time I open one. I also like the Krug Rosé, but find many of the high end rosés are often great but not great enough to justify the tariff, in my mind.
I've never had a Gonon VV. It's funny you lament the cost of the regular St. Joseph then open a VV, although the price you listed is pretty amazing!
I stopped buying the Dauvissat GC's due to the price, and due to some oxidation issues I've encountered. I still buy the 1ers.
Thanks for the notes!
Warren
What’s ironic is that the oldest wine by far (the Diamond Creek) was perhaps the most impenetrable and in need of time.

As for the Gonon, I found the VV pretty obviously more complex and layered than the regular bottling. I don’t know if the VV is worth whatever obscene amount it auctions for but at the wine list price it was well worth it (at least to me).

I too have stopped buying Dauvissat GCs — but from a wine list at reasonable prices ($180 for the 09 and $245 for the 14) is a good time to try them.
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Re: Holiday Wines - Gonon VV, Allemand, Dauvissat & Many Others

#4 Post by c fu »

Awesome on the 2010 gonon VV. one of the best rhones I've tasted in the last year or so. Release price last year on the 2010 Gonon VV was only $130~! Deal in a half!
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Re: Holiday Wines - Gonon VV, Allemand, Dauvissat & Many Others

#5 Post by Bob Paul »

Ryan, what do you think the optimum drinking window is for the 2010 Gonon VV? I have a couple of bottles, but have never tried. Thanks.

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Re: Holiday Wines - Gonon VV, Allemand, Dauvissat & Many Others

#6 Post by Jim Hanlon »

c fu wrote: December 30th, 2020, 1:47 pm Awesome on the 2010 gonon VV. one of the best rhones I've tasted in the last year or so. Release price last year on the 2010 Gonon VV was only $130~! Deal in a half!
I paid a good deal less than $130, but was only allocated one bottle.

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Re: Holiday Wines - Gonon VV, Allemand, Dauvissat & Many Others

#7 Post by Ramon C »

Whew! Very cool wines. Thanks for sharing the notes.
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Re: Holiday Wines - Gonon VV, Allemand, Dauvissat & Many Others

#8 Post by Jeremy Holmes »

Nice spread there Ryan.
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Re: Holiday Wines - Gonon VV, Allemand, Dauvissat & Many Others

#9 Post by Robert.A.Jr. »

c fu wrote: December 30th, 2020, 1:47 pm Awesome on the 2010 gonon VV. one of the best rhones I've tasted in the last year or so. Release price last year on the 2010 Gonon VV was only $130~! Deal in a half!
I shared all my VVs with fellow Berserkers! Easily one of the top Northern Rhônes. Beautiful, powerful stuff.

Quite a night, Ryan. Thanks for sharing.
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Re: Holiday Wines - Gonon VV, Allemand, Dauvissat & Many Others

#10 Post by Greg K »

Nice notes! I also love the 12 Reynard and the 10 Gonon VV, though I think the Reynard needs a few hours In a decanter to open up.

Not surprised by your note on the Ramonet; all my post 2014 experiences with these wines have been very similar.
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Re: Holiday Wines - Gonon VV, Allemand, Dauvissat & Many Others

#11 Post by Ramon C »

Greg K wrote: December 30th, 2020, 3:50 pm Nice notes! I also love the 12 Reynard and the 10 Gonon VV, though I think the Reynard needs a few hours In a decanter to open up.

Not surprised by your note on the Ramonet; all my post 2014 experiences with these wines have been very similar.

Good to read positive notes on the 12 Reynard. I stretched my Allemand vintages with a recent A-for-A trade for a couple of them.
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Re: Holiday Wines - Gonon VV, Allemand, Dauvissat & Many Others

#12 Post by Greg K »

Ramon C wrote: December 30th, 2020, 4:02 pm
Greg K wrote: December 30th, 2020, 3:50 pm Nice notes! I also love the 12 Reynard and the 10 Gonon VV, though I think the Reynard needs a few hours In a decanter to open up.

Not surprised by your note on the Ramonet; all my post 2014 experiences with these wines have been very similar.

Good to read positive notes on the 12 Reynard. I stretched my Allemand vintages with a recent A-for-A trade for a couple of them.
The 12 and the 14 are my favorite recent vintages or Reynard for current drinking for sure.
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