1972 Xavier Vignon Châteauneuf-du-Pape Xavier Cuvée 1972- France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (1/1/2021)
Dark nearly opaque core with significant lighting in the outer 30% to a clear edge. Initial nose is unique; stewed celery and carrots, beef shank, a little chocolate, not much fruit detected, what is detected is of the red fruit variety (cherries, strawberries and rhubarb). Palate confirms the nose, just lean. If served blind and you told me it was a 1995 1er cru burgundy, I would not have been surprised.
After an hour a nice mushroom note emerges along with some shoe polish. Notes I would typically associate with a 38 year old wine. Overall this was not terribly exciting and it is tough to get a sense how or even if it would improve over time. (90 pts.)
It’s actually a very fine but for whatever reason not at all talked about vintage for the reason. The 1972 Clos des Papes is the best Clos de Papes I ever drank. Four down, one to go, and each bottle just irresistible.
It’s very rare to see 1972 CdP around these days. I remember a good friend generously opening a 1972 Chateau de Beaucastel red around 2008, along with a 1962. It was still fresh and had 5-10+ more years of ageing to go.
So this wine is more of a novelty than a good CDP laying peacefully for 36+ years. Here is the story from the retailer. I thought it was worth a try. I will not be buying more. The perplexing posture of the wine was in concert with its unique history.
Copied from retailer.
Here is another epic dose of magic from Xavier. This wine comes from one of his famous clients, and the story is simply extraordinary: The longtime winemaker of this estate, grandfather of the current proprietors, passed away shortly after making the 1972 vintage. His sons were so respectful of this final wine made by their father that they could not get themselves to put it into bottle. The wine was left in concrete tank. For over 45 years it sat, untouched. The sons have now all retired and the grandchildren are in charge. They are uncertain as to what to do with the estate and have decided to sell off some of the old cuvees. They allowed Xavier to taste the 1972. He bought the entire tank. Xavier bottled the wine just a few weeks ago…
