Domaine de Trévallon Rouge & Blanc
Arguably the finest wines of Provence
Cult producer from Les Baux de Provence. Eloi Dürrbach planted vines in the three valleys (Tre Vallon) in 1973. 17 ha of North-facing vineyards are farmed organically since the beginning.
The unique style of red wines is defined by the blend that mirrors the domaine holdings planted equally between Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Since that only 20% is allowed in AOC, Trévallon is labeled as a table wine.
2ha of vines are allocated for white wines whose blend is dominated by classic Rhone grapes: Roussanne, Marsanne and Clairette with 10% of Chardonnay.
The winemaking is utmost natural. Always whole clusters and wild yeast. 24 months aging in foudres for reds. The elevage of whites takes 1 year in 50% new oak barrels. Reds undergo no filtration before bottling.
Trévallon wines benefit from long bottle aging and shine at their best after 15+ years from the harvest.
Wine labels have a strong aesthetic appeal. Those are the posters by Eloi’s father Rene, a painter and sculptor, a friend of Picasso and Albert Gleizes, a pioneer of cubism.
Blanc
Yellow golden oxidative wines of Southern style with a fuller body, oily texture. Cantaloupe, honeyed pear, marzipan, sugared quince and gooseberry, touch of oak.
2006 and 2008 are equally good, but 2004 stands out with lively acidity and pure harmony.
Rouge
𝘓e 𝘮𝘢𝘳𝘪𝘢𝘨𝘦 of Bordeaux with Hermitage.
Graceful wines with accentuated purity of fruits. Aromas swing back and forth from cassis, tobacco leaf, lead pencil shavings to spices, leather, red berries.
2005 shows vibrant and juicy. 2003 grippes with youthful tannins. 2001 is complete effortless wine, ethereal with many layers for a long meditation.
Domaine de Trévallon Rouge & Blanc vertical tasting
What I find interesting about the labels is they choose them to reflect the year. Warmer colors are warmer years or wines, while cooler colors are cooler years.
Thanks, Stas! I’ve collected Trévallon since the late 80’s and still have a few bottles from that decade including a 1985. I have a bunch of vintages of the red but strangely none of those you had. I tried the 2017 just a few days ago. It’s very young and I thought it was showing a lot of Syrah character, though I wouldn’t expect it to be mistaken for a Northern Rhone.
The wine has had four designations over time: Coteaux des Baux en Provence (up to 82 or 83); Coteaux D’Aix en Provence - Les Baux (~84 through 93); Vin de Pays des Bouches du Rhone (94 through 08); and the new IGP Alpilles (since 2009). I’m not sure if the first two were different or just a renaming.
That 85 Trevallon Rouge is one of my favorite wines of all time. First blindtasted at age ten where it bested a couple of dozen other Syrah and cab- based blends, none of them slouches Then every five years or so since- it just got better and better. I wrote to Eloi a number of years ago and asked him when he thought the wine would be at its peak. His response- “immortal”! I have one left as well- waiting for the right momentous occasion to pair it with.
Please do not talk about these wines. They are IMO some of the most underpriced wines available relative to their distinctiveness, quality and durability.
I got to taste the components of the 2015 at the domaine. The Cabernet was nice but the Syrah was glorious. They feel that the whole is better than the sum of the parts, but I’d love to taste the Syrah on its own at 15 years.
A good friend of mine is a fan of Trevallon and I’ve tasted most vintages since the early 80’s. My favourite has been the 88, although the 83 was nearly as good. I loaded up on the 07, but still have to open a bottle - advice from the big man is that this is the best and still needs time
It was the first domaine I visited in France. The place itself was really cool; lots of artwork integrated into the design of the domaine and the grounds were impeccably maintained. The winemaking is pretty traditional with the reds aged in large old tanks although the whites are aged in newer barrique. The family was very gracious with their time, and I think I tasted a finished 2014 and then a couple of barrel samples. I was so excited to be there that I probably seemed a little odd.
There were several vats that had “Rayas” in chalk on the side, as well as a bunch of Rayas, Fonsalette and Pignan dead soldiers in the tasting room. I wanted to ask about the connection but was afraid that might seem rude.
It was a great experience, and I should have a lot more of their bottles in my cellar.
