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Pre-tasting wines (not part of the tasting, attendees just brought these with them)
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2017 Bodega Catena Zapata Chardonnay Catena Alta Historic Rows - Argentina, Mendoza (20.11.2020)
A blend of fruit from Adrianna vineyard (80%) located at the altitude of 4,757 ft / 1,450 m ASL and Domingo vineyard (20%) located at the altitude of 3,675 ft / 1,120 m ASL. Fermented spontaneously in 500-liter French oak barrels. Aged for 14 months in French oak, 70% of the wine undergoing MLF. 13,9% alcohol, 6,75 g/l acidity and pH 3,2.
Deep, concentrated and quite intense neon yellow-green color. Very open, sweet and toasty nose with polished, modern aromas of ripe star fruit, caramel oak, some toasty wood tones, a little bit of pineapple, light vanilla tones, a creamy hint of panna cotta and a touch of melted butter. The nose is quite over-the-top - like a textbook new world Chardonnay. The wine is concentrated, full-bodied and very ripe on the palate with bold flavors of sweet Golden Delicious apple, vanilla, caramel oak, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of browned butter, light tropical fruit notes of pineapple and nectarines, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of butterscotch. The acidity feels very high, which lends good sense of balance and structure to the otherwise rather heavy and monolithic wine. The finish is rich, powerful and somewhat sweet-toned with quite oak-driven flavors of cooked cream and toffee, some sweet toasty oak spice, a little bit of butter, light fruity notes of pineapple and golden apple, a hint of crema catalana and a touch of extracted woody bitterness.
This is really a quintessential new world Chardonnay: tons of concentrated, ripe fruit, rather heavy-handed and dominant oak influence, quite massive body and surprisingly high acidity. The wine really feels like it is well-made, screaming of high quality and luxurious oak along with its bright, balanced acidity that keeps the wine nicely in balance. However, the wine is definitely not for my taste - it is drenched in oak and it tastes more of vanilla, caramel and butterscotch than fruit, coming across as a winemakerâs wine, not a terroir wine. I can imagine this can be very impressive if one is looking for huge blockbuster Chardonnays that drink more like red than white wines, but there is really nothing Burgundian here - and that is the style in which I like to enjoy my Chardonnays. Fortunately the wine shows good potential for future development with its vibrant fruit and high acidity, so perhaps with enough age its taste department might gain some sense of finesse and balance as well? I must admit that this is a quite well-made wine in its own genre, so my score is reflective of that, not how much I liked the wine. (88 pts.)
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2013 Gramercy Cellars Grenache The Third Man - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley (20.11.2020)
I wonder why they decided to change labeling this as âGrenacheâ when the wine is a classic GSM blend with almost a quarter of something else than Grenache! Oh well. A blend of Grenache (76%), Syrah (19%) and MourvĂšdre (5%). 14,7% alcohol.
Deep, somewhat evolved and slightly translucent black cherry color with a hint of developed maroon hue. The nose feels savory and meaty with aromas of licorice, wizened black cherries, some developed notes of dry old leather, a little bit of oak spice, light sweet notes of cassis, a hint of earth and a touch of alcohol. The wine is ripe, broad and full-bodied on the palate with flavors of licorice, ripe dark plums, some leathery tones, a little bit of sweet toasty oak and vanilla, light earthy tones, sweet hints of cassis and blackberry marmalade, a touch of peppery spice and an understated nuance of blood orange. The wine is enjoyable complex with layered flavors intermingling around each other, but the overall feel is somewhat soft and mellow, the wine being quite modest in acidity with very soft and easy tannins. Thus, the wine is lacking a bit in structure that a wine of this size would call for. The finish is long, rich and ripe with somewhat evolved, savory flavors of wizened dark fruits, some licorice, a little bit of old leather, light blackberry tones, oaky hints of mocha coffee, vanilla and toasted wood and a touch of peppery meat.
A tasty and sophisticated GSM with good sense of development and complexity. The oak shows through a bit at times, but fortunately never too much. However, the wine is lacking a bit in structure, as the acidity feels relatively low and the soft, ripe tannins donât really manage to bring in any firmness either. Thereâs lots of enjoyment to be had here, thanks to the captivating nose and layered taste, but thanks to its softness, itâs hard to get too excited about the wine. It feels slightly flabby on its own and it doesnât really have enough structure to be much of a food wine. All in all, this is a good RhĂŽne blend, but not great. (88 pts.)
Introductory bubbles
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NV BĂ©rĂȘche et Fils Champagne Brut RĂ©serve Vieilles Vignes - France, Champagne (20.11.2020)
Typically a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir, one third of each. Composed of the base wine fermented spontaneously in oak barrels (2/3) and older reserve wines (1/3). Disgorged in January 2018. Lot L15BSA0118, so perhaps based on 2014 or 2015 vintage? 12% alcohol, dosage 7 g/l.
Yellow-green color. Sappy, leesy and somewhat restrained nose with aromas of ripe citrus fruits, some mealy apple, light yeasty notes of French bread, a little bit of autolytic biscuit character, a mineral hint of stone dust and a touch of savory wood spice. The wine is ripe yet dry and focused on the palate with flavors of juicy citrus fruits, some savory woody tones, a little bit of leesy yeast, light autolytic notes of French bread, a pithy hint of pomelo and a tangy mineral touch of salinity. Smooth, creamy mousse. The finish is quite long with bright flavors of tart green apples, some leesy yeastiness, a little bit of ripe citrus fruits, light tangy notes of salinity, a hint of savory oak spice and an autolytic touch of brioche.
A clean, fresh and balanced Champagne, but also one that seems to be lacking in character. This is an archetypal well-made Champagne with great sense of purity, focus and structure, but it is also so - well - textbook Champagne that it is hard to find anything of distinction here. There is no doubt that this is a great fizz, but I find it really hard to get excited about it. Fortunately it shows good potential for future development - based on its very youthful overall character - so most likely it will become more interesting if given enough age. For current consumption the wine is quite enjoyable, but nothing special to write home about. (89 pts.)
Noticeably pale and slightly hazy raspberry red color. Youthful and crunchy nose with aromas of red berries, some sappy raspberry leaf tones, a little bit of perfumed floral character and a hint of ripe redcurrant. The wine is dry, crunchy and quite gentle on the palate with flavors of crunchy redcurrants, some raspberry, light primary notes of fruit candies, a little bit of sappy raspberry leaf, a hint of ripe white peach and a touch of herbal spice. The structure relies almost solely on the high acidity as the tannins feels very soft and easy. Soft, mellow mousse. The finish is fresh, lively and quite acid-driven with rather long flavors of tart green apples, some herbal notes, a little bit of ripe white peach, light raspberry leaf tones and a hint of redcurrant.
A tasty, youthful and straightforward little Lambrusco. Comes across as noticeably lighter, softer and easier compared to the normally somewhat leaner and more tannic style of dry Lambrusco. A fruity, accessible and very enjoyable little red fizzy bordering on rosé rather than the deeper, more red style typical of other genres of Lambrusco. Nice, but nothing extraordinary. Perfect as a weekday food wine with bubbles. (85 pts.)
Trip to Hungary
Pale, youthful and rather neutral whitish-green color. Youthful, primary and quite simple nose of pear drops, some leesy tones, a little bit of sour apple candy, light fruity notes of white peach and a salty hint of ocean air. The wine is lively, playful and rather primary on the palate with youthful and quite linear flavors of ripe golden apples, some pear tones, a little bit of candied primary fruit, light white peach tones and a hint of leesy yeast. High in acidity. The finish is medium in length with dry primary flavors of fresh pear, some crunchy apple, a little bit of peach candy and a hint of pear drops.
A rather linear and rather harmless little wine that feels like a very young Muscadet or a simple Italian white. The only thing that baffled me was how young the wine was - clocking at 5 years of age, it drunk more like one that was less than a year old. Although it is always interesting to taste new grape varieties, this didnât really manage to offer much thrill. The wine was nice, fresh and balanced, but tasted just very simple and primary - nothing of distinction. Quite good but rather forgettable. (83 pts.)
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2015 Valibor Budai Zöld Badacsonyi - Hungary, Balaton, Badacsonyi (20.11.2020)
Budai Zöld, âthe white of Budaâ, is a variety incapable of cross-pollination, so it is normally inter-planted with varieties that can pollinate it instead - normally that variety is KĂ©knyelƱ. 11,5% alcohol.
Slightly concentrated pale green color. Restrained, dry and somewhat leesy nose with understated aromas of woolly lanolin and some chalk dust. Not much in the way of fruit going on here. The wine is dry, medium-bodied and quite balanced on the palate with rather reticent flavors of woolly lanolin, some crunchy white currants, a little bit of leesy yeast, light chalk dust tones and a hint of tangy salinity. High acidity. The finish is medium-long with light, understated flavors of white peach, some wool, light leesy tones and a hint of chalk dust.
A rather non-descript and neutral little white lacking in fruit. The wine isnât really lacking in flavor or taste - thereâs just rather little of anything that would keep me interested. The medium body and the high acidity are in balance, but otherwise the wine is so bland and dull that it really doesnât manage to offer anything of interest. Meh. (79 pts.)
Rather concentrated and quite deep yellow-green color. Concentrated, characterful and somewhat wild nose with aromas of ripe golden apples, some bretty notes of Band-Aid and leathery funk, light saline notes of ocean air, a hint of beeswax and a touch of perfumed floral character. The wine is ripe, waxy and moderately full-bodied with complex and slightly wild flavors of lemony citrus fruits and fresh golden apples, some funky brett notes of leather and Band-Aid, light steely mineral tones, a little bit of tangy salinity, a hint of beeswax and a touch of phenolic spice. The high acidity lends wonderful intensity and sense of structure to the wine. The finish is bright, long and quite acid-driven with savory, funky flavors of beeswax, some Band-Aid, light tangy notes of saline minerality, a little bit of tart lemony citrus fruit, a hint of leather and a touch of cool, wet stones.
A wonderfully funky, distinctive and characterful white that manages to combine good freshness and intensity with a rather concentrated body and waxy overall character. The wine is definitely somewhat sauvage with a distinctively bretty overall character, but it manages to play really well to the fruit flavors here, so it never once makes the wine come across as unpleasant, but instead very characterful and nuanced in style. Probably not for everybody, but I enjoyed the rustic, unpolished yet at the same time very fresh and stylish qualities of the wine. Nice! (91 pts.)
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2006 Pincészet Lenkey Furmint Holdvolgy - Hungary, Tokaji (20.11.2020)
The grapes were sourced from Holdvölgy Cru, where the vines produced only 6-8 bunches per vine that year. Harvested on 4th of November, 2006. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts, aged for 7 months in Hungarian oak barrels. 12% alcohol, 2,5 g/l residual sugar and 7,1 g/l acidity. This is the latest release of this wine, released in November 2016, 10 years from the harvest. Bottle no. 91 of total 1586 bottles.
Quite deep and rather concentrated yellow-green color. Ridiculously complex and fascinating nose with wild, layered aromas of beeswax, some developed notes of peach, light funky notes of new leather and chewing tobacco, a little bit of acacia honey, a hint of candied ginger and a touch of poached pear. Thereâs so much going on here, wow. The wine is dry, quite light-bodied and moderately evolved on the palate with very complex flavors of slivered almonds, woolly lanolin, some chalky tones and a little bit of stony minerality, light sweeter notes of honeyed richness, appley hints of mealy golden apples and apple peel bitterness and a mature touch of dried tropical fruits. The racy acidity lends wonderful sense of structure and energy to the wine. The finish is very long, complex and layered with intense, acid-driven flavors of zesty citrus fruits, tangy salinity, some woolly lanolin, a little bit of apple peel bitterness, light evolved notes of dried yellow fruits, a hint of mature nuttiness and a touch of honey.
An outstanding dry Tokaji that is surprisingly light and delicate for the age and obvious ripeness, yet showing intensity way beyond the relatively lithe body of the wine. Immense sense of depth, complexity and intensity here. Itâs hard to say whether the wine will evolve from here or just stay the way it is now, but I have a strong feeling the wine is not going to be going anywhere anytime soon. One of the most impressive dry Tokajis Iâve tasted. Outrageous value at 9900 HUF (approx. 27,50âŹ). (94 pts.)
Good acid trip
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2010 Weingut Baron Knyphausen Riesling Auslese âEdition Royal Blueâ - Germany, Rheingau (20.11.2020)
The grapes are sourced from Erbacher Michelmark, harvested at Auslese ripeness. The wine was supposed to be fermented dry, but the fermentation halted right before full dryness. 13% alcohol, 10,9 g/l acid and 11,8 g/l residual sugar. Bottle #175 out of total 339 bottles.
Deep, concentrated and somewhat evolved golden yellow color with an amber core and subtle greenish highlights towards the rim. Very open and expressive nose with intense and noticeably concentrated aromas of honey and beeswax, peachy stone fruits, some lemon marmalade, light notes of petrol, a little bit of overripe apricot, a developed hint of caramel and a touch of very ripe pineapple. The wine is ripe, full-bodied and somewhat viscous on the palate with remarkably concentrated flavors of lemony citrus fruits, steely minerality very typical of Rheingau, some apricot tones, light bitter notes of chalky minerality, a little bit of honeyed richness, a hint of tangy salinity, a touch of smoky flint character and a subtle, evolved nuance of toasty nuttiness. The laughably high acidity lends tremendous intensity and sense of structure to the wine, making it feel very focused and high-strung, yet not at all aggressive or too tightly-knit. Bracing and ridiculously complex finish with intense flavors of lemony citrus fruits, tart green apples, some steely mineral tones, light honeyed tones, a little bit of pithy grapefruit bitterness, a hint of candied ginger and a touch of zesty citrus fruit marmalade.
A tremendously concentrated Auslese Riesling that is quite singular in its exceptionally ripe and so very focused style. The acidity here is through the roof, yet still the wine doesnât feel as incisive as one could imagine a wine this high in acidity would be - all thanks to the very ripe and concentrated and the touch of residual sugar which is just enough to soften the edge from the acidity and lend some balancing weight to the body. Although the wine is still remarkably youthful for its age, it has picked up some mature complexity since I last tasted the wine (3 years ago) and based on my observations, the wine seems to be going in the right direction. The wine is a singular experience, no matter when it is drunk, but I have no doubts this will become even more exceptional with enough age. Stunning value at 35âŹ. (95 pts.)
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2018 Hatzidakis Winery Assyrtiko Santorini Familia - Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini (20.11.2020)
The organically farmed grapes are sourced from the villages of Akrotiri, Megalochori, Pyrgos and Vourvoulos. Fermented spontaneously, then aged in stainless steel tanks. 14% alcohol.
Youthful, pale lime-green color. Small bubbles start to form on the insides of the glass. The nose feels fresh and incisive with intense aromas of green apples and sharp citrus fruit notes of key lime, some cut grass, light primary notes of sour apple candies, a little bit of something waxy and a hint of stony or flinty minerality. The wine is concentrated, lively and very slightly spritzy on the palate with a moderately full body and ripe, slightly sweet-toned flavors of tart lemony citrus fruits, nectarine, some beeswax, a little bit of something slightly funky, light mineral notes of tangy salinity and a hint of flinty minerality. Despite its ripeness and rather full body, the wine never once comes across as big or heavy, thanks to the structured, racy acidity. Thereâs lots of stuff here, but nothing in excess. The long, nuanced finish is ripe and sweet-toned with intense, focused flavors of juicy citrus fruits, some chalky bitterness, a little bit of tangy salinity, light notes of beeswax, a hint of tart Granny Smith apple and a touch of sweet nectarine.
It seems that even if Haridimos Hatzidakis is gone, his family and colleagues continue to produce wines of impeccable quality. Although just an entry-level white wine, this is a very impressive, focused and rather powerful take on Santorini Assyrtiko that is still very youthful and high-strung in style. Although not a wine to be cellared for extensive periods of time, it feels like this could use another 3-5 years before hitting its apex. Probably will keep for even longer. Easily among the best entry-level Assyrtikos of Santorini. Recommended. (92 pts.)
Cab Francly
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2012 Hummel Cabernet Franc VillĂĄny Panterra - Hungary, DĂ©l-PannĂłnia, VillĂĄny (20.11.2020)
2012 was one of the hottest and driest vintages in the history of VillĂĄny. This is an organic Cabernet Franc aged for 30 months in used Burgundy barrels. 13,36% alcohol, 1,0 g/l residual sugar and 5,6 g/l acidity.
Almost fully opaque yet not particularly concentrated blackish blood-red color with a slightly rusted rim. The nose feels sweet, sunny and quite dark-toned with aromas of wizened dark forest fruits, some licorice, a little bit of VA lending a nice sweet lift to the fruit aromas, a hint of cooked bell pepper and a touch of fresh blackcurrant. The wine is firm, sinewy and somewhat meaty on the palate with a medium body and savory flavors of fresh blackcurrants, some ferrous notes of blood, a little bit of raw red meat, light crunchy notes of redcurrants, a hint of earth and a woody touch of pencil shavings. A nice, subtle nuance of bitterness emerges as the fruit flavors fade towards the aftertaste. The overall feel is quite structured, thanks to the high acidity and quite ample, moderately grippy tannins. The finish is dry, savory and rather grippy with long flavors of redcurrants, woody pencil shavings, some bloody notes, a little bit of wizened blackcurrants, light umami notes of gamey meat, a hint of earth and a touch of graphite.
A very tasty, firm and harmonious Cabernet Franc that feels a bit more dark-fruited and muscular then the leaner and more herbaceous Francs of the Loire Valley, yet this wine doesnât feel like a very ripe and concentrated new world Cab Franc either. The overall feel is very savory, rather tightly-knit and quite structure-driven, which puts the wine firmly in the classic, old-school / old world department. Although showing some signs of age, the wine is still relatively youthful at the age of 8 years and most likely will continue to improve steadily for another decade or so. A very fine wine indeed. Hummel doesnât fail. (93 pts.)
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2009 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boissée - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon (20.11.2020)
The flagship Chinon of Bernard Baudry, coming from a 15-40 yo vineyard planted on chalky soil. Fermented spontaneously, macerated with the skins for 20 days in oak vats and then aged for 24 months in 1-3 yo oak barrels. 13,5% alcohol.
Moderately deep and somewhat translucent dark blood-red color with a rusty hue. Savory, quite markedly bretty and still wonderfully seductive nose with complex, rustic aromas of barnyard, wizened blackcurrants, some sweet plummy fruit, light autumnal notes of dried leaves, a little bit of pink peppercorn, a hint of new leather and a smoky touch of phenolic spice. The wine is ripe, firm and harmonious on the palate with a medium body and savory flavors of ripe blackcurrants, leathery funk, some smoky phenolic tones, a little bit of savory wood spice, light peppery notes of crushed pink peppercorns, a bretty hint of barnyard and a touch of crunchy dark fruit. The wine shows quite a bit of ripeness for a Chinon, yet instead of being sweetly-fruited and big, the wine is dry, quite lean and textural. The overall feel is quite structure-driven, thanks to the high acidity and quite ample, grippy and chalky tannins. The dry finish is long, complex and quite tannic with savory flavors of ripe blackcurrants and red plums, some ferrous notes of blood, a little bit of leathery funk, light smoky notes of phenolic spice, a hint of crushed peppercorns and a bretty touch of barnyard.
Although coming from the hot 2009 vintage, this wine manages to avoid all the pitfalls of a very warm vintage and instead comes across as a quintessential top Chinon. One can taste the solar qualities in how ripe the wine feels and how the herbaceous notes of pyrazines really donât bring much or at all bell pepper character to the wine, instead lending only a subtle undercurrent of crushed peppercorns to the flavors. The overall feel is markedly bretty - true to the Baudry style - with a healthy dose of merde complementing the bright and crunchy fruit flavors. Whatâs most notable here, however, is the freshness, sense structure and the lack of sweetness here: although the 2009 has left its imprint here, the acidity has not suffered at all and the overall flavors incline towards dryness instead of the sweet-toned ripeness. Although the wine is in a mighty wonderful phase right now, it is obvious that the wine is still on an upward trajectory and will continue on that path for at least another decade. Outstanding stuff, very highly recommended. (95 pts.)
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2009 Le Macchiole Paleo Rosso - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (20.11.2020)
100% Cabernet Franc, fermented and macerated for 20 days in steel tanks and concrete tanks. Aged for 14 months in oak barriques (75% new, 25% once used). 14,5% alcohol.
Slightly translucent, blackish-red color. Toasty and sweetish nose with aromas of ripe dark berries, some dark-toned oak notes of mocha and milk chocolate, a little bit of sweet toasty oak spice, light woody notes of pencil shavings, a hint of roasted bell pepper and a touch of sunny, pruney fruit. The wine is ripe, weighty and quite solar on the palate with a full body and rather concentrated flavors of toasty oak spice, sweet dark plums and almost pruney fruit, some glossy, chocolatey notes of mocha oak, a little bit of extracted woody bitterness, light greener notes of minty herbal character, a hint of chocolate chips and a touch of raisiny character. Despite the hot vintage, the acidity feels relatively high, but the ripe, quite mellow tannins feel rather soft for a Paleo. The finish is long, gently tannins and slightly sweet-toned with quite lush flavors of chocolatey mocha oak, some ripe blackcurrants and dark plums, a little bit of chocolate chips and bittersweet dark chocolate, light woody notes of cedar, a hint of sweet pruney fruit and a touch of roasted bell pepper.
A rather solar and quite glossy vintage of Paleo, coming across as rather sweetish with its glossy sheen of chocolatey oak and sunny dark fruit that feels not only sweet and soft, but at times even slightly pruney and raisiny as well. The overall feel is quite soft for Paleo, as the wine normally shows quite noticeably firmness and healthy tannic grip, while this wine is conspicuously soft in that respect. While the wine is very balanced, complex and wonderfully textural as a whole, it doesnât really manage to impress wholly: the oak use feels a bit too liberal, lending the wine a somewhat chocolatey feel, and the hot vintage has made the wine feel a bit too soft and sweet. This is a good, modern Super-Tuscan, but definitely not among the great vintages of Paleo. I hope that with enough aging the oak characteristics would integrate with the fruit. (88 pts.)
Some random reds from around Alps
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2015 Christian Tschida Mel Ramos Peek-a-Boo - Austria, Burgenland, Neusiedlersee (20.11.2020)
This is the Domkapitel / Non-Tradition of Christian Tschida, only with a special label by the pop art painter Mel Ramos. Made with free-run juice from biodynamically farmed grapes. According to some sources, this is a 100% Cabernet Franc, others say this is a blend of Cabernet Franc and Zweigelt. Fermented spontaneously. 12,5% alcohol.
Dark, somewhat translucent blackish-cherry red with a pale rim. Sweetish, somewhat cool and slightly wild nose with lifted aromas of ripe dark berries, some sweet notes of volatile acidity, light herbal notes of spearmint, a little bit of crunchy blackcurrant, a hint of bretty funk and a touch of acetic VA. The wine is lively, medium-bodied and quite acid-driven on the palate with crunchy and rather wild flavors of tart lingonberries, blueberries, some smoky phenolic tones, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light sappy herbal tones, a lifted hint of sweet VA and a sweet touch of ripe raspberry. High in acidity with firm yet friendly medium tannins. The finish is wild, funky and rather listed with dry, fruit-driven flavors of crunchy cranberries and tart lingonberries, some leathery funk, a little bit of sour red plum, light phenolic, spicy notes of brett and a hint of something earthy that seems to grow into mousiness the longer the wine stays open.
A fresh, fruity and enjoyably sappy red. However, the wine doesnât seem to be particularly distinctive early on and with enough air it seems to fall slowly apart as the VA gains more prominence and the aftertaste gets ruined by the mousiness which grows in intensity the longer the wine stays open. An interesting and balanced wine, but it feels like this couldâve been better with a small dose of SO2. Now the wine is just a bit too natty for enjoyment. At approx. 50⏠the wine feels rather overpriced for its quality. (84 pts.)
Somewhat translucent and surprisingly evolved cherry red color with a maroon core and a pale orange rim. Meaty and relatively oxidative nose with aromas of soy sauce, some dried red berries, a little bit of wizened black cherry, light savory-sweet notes of hoi sin, a hint of roasted game and a touch of old leather. The wine is savory, evolved and quite acid-driven on the palate with a medium body and somewhat oxidative flavors of tart lingonberries and sour cherry bitterness, some crunchy cranberry, a little bit of gamey meat, light oxidative notes of soy sauce, a hint of hoi sin and a touch of salinity. The taste starts off quite dry, but gains some developed sweetness towards the aftertaste. The structure relies mostly on the high acidity, as the tannins feel - as is typical of Barbera - quite soft, mellow and easy. The finish is long, acid-driven and quite tertiary with somewhat oxidative flavors of crunchy cranberries, some sour cherries, a little bit of gamey meat, light salty notes of soy sauce, a hint of tart lingonberries and a touch of leather.
A tasty and balanced but also surprisingly evolved Barbera that is starting to turn reddish-brown in color and showing some oxidative qualities in both the nose and taste. Since it feels quite odd for a Mascarello red feel this evolved this soon, I wonder if the wine has been kept in too warm temperatures before purchase, or if the cork was compromised? Based on how the wine is drinking, the wine doesnât show much promise aging-wise, but it is very possible that this was an off bottle, so you might want to take that into account. (86 pts.)
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1996 Tenuta San Leonardo San Leonardo - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Trentino, Vallagarina IGT (20.11.2020)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%), CarménÚre (20%), Cabernet Franc (10%) and Merlot (10%). First fermented and aged for 6 months in large oak casks, then transferred to oak barriques where the wine is aged for 24 months. 13% alcohol.
Somewhat translucent and slightly developed blackish-red color with a lighter brick-red rim. Dry, savory nose with complex aromas of ripe blackcurrants, herbaceous notes of red bell pepper and chipotle, some smoky tones, light evolved notes of wizened figs, a little bit of gamey meat, a woody hint of pencil shavings and a touch of tobacco. Very lovely! The wine is dry, firm and quite savory on the palate with a medium body and vibrant, mature flavors of roasted bell pepper, wizened blackcurrants, some powdered bell pepper, a little bit of leather and rustic funky character, light tertiary notes of beef jerky, an umami hint of hoi sin and a smoky, herbaceous touch of chipotle. The overall feel is silky and harmonious with the high acidity and fully resolved yet still enjoyably firm medium tannins. The long finish is dry and complex with acid-driven flavors of tart lingonberries, smoky tertiary character, some brambly raspberry, light herbaceous notes of bell pepper, a little bit of leathery funk, a hint of wizened red plum and a tertiary, salty-savory touch of hoi sin.
Oh wow. This was pretty much exactly like a classic old-school Bordeaux with its firm, balanced structure, herbaceous bell pepper tones, wonderfully evolved fruit flavors of wizened blackcurrants and an understated hint of rustic barnyard funk. This is about as proper as proper clarets come, never mind it comes from Italy, not Bordeaux. Outstanding stuff - I could sit there, just sniffing the captivating bouquet all day long. Peaking now; most likely the wine will keep for many more years, but since I doubt the wine is going anywhere from here, Iâd say there is no point in aging this any further. Drink now or within the next handful of years. Very highly recommended. (96 pts.)
The token Bordeaux flight
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2011 Clos St. Julien - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Ămilion (20.11.2020)
An atypical St. Ămilion blend of Cabernet Franc (60%) and Merlot (40%). Fermented in oak tanks, after which the wine is racked to oak barriques (100%) in which the wine is aged until bottled. 13,5% alcohol.
Extracted, quite opaque and slightly evolved black cherry color with a subtly figgy hue. Even though the wine is supposed to see only new oak, the nose is very classically styled with savory aromas of ripe dark fruits, minty herbal notes, some raw gamey meat, light smoky notes of toasty oak spice, a little bit of dried herbs, an evolved hint of wizened blackcurrant and a touch of roasted exotic spices. The wine is ripe, textural and wonderfully savory on the palate with a medium body and intense, complex flavors of wizened blackcurrants, sour cherries, some roasted gamey meat, light ferrous notes of blood, a hint of extracted woody bitterness and an oaky touch of chocolate chips. The overall feel isnât young anymore, but the wine doesnât feel particularly developed either. Good, firm structure with its high acidity and ample, firm and rather grippy tannins. The finish is savory, long and quite grippy with intense flavors of sour cherries and crunchy redcurrants, some sour red plums, a little bit of savory woody spice, light evolved notes of wizened blackcurrants, sweet hints of mocha and toasty oak spice and a touch of extracted woody bitterness.
A very impressive, firm and rather structured St. Ămilion that manages to hide its oak influence surprisingly well. Especially the nose is that of a proper claret - albeit a rather ripe one - and not of a heavy, oak-drenched monster. The toasty mocha oak tones start to emerge only towards the end of the aftertaste, while otherwise the wine seems to emphasize more its fruity notes and more developed savory nuances. The overall feel is that of a developing wine; it isnât young anymore, nor particularly mature yet. Otherwise the wine is starting to drink quite wonderfully right now, but the firm, grippy tannins really could use some further aging to resolve better. If opened now, pair the wine with something hearty enough to let the tannins have something to chew on. Good stuff. (91 pts.)
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2009 Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, MĂ©doc, Pauillac (20.11.2020)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (63%), Merlot (22%) and Cabernet Franc (15%). Aged for 18 months in French oak barriques (80% new). 13% alcohol.
Medium-deep and moderately translucent black cherry color with a somewhat developed pomegranate hue and brick-red rim. Sweet, fragrant and quite characterful nose with rich lush aromas of ripe red fruits, sweet exotic spices along with more earthy notes of turmeric, some meaty notes of chorizo or salami, light toasty oak tones, a hint of tomato and a touch of mocha. The wine is full-bodied, juicy and textural on the palate with noticeably ripe and somewhat sweet-toned flavors of cassis, chocolatey oak tones, some succulent plummy tones, light jammy dark berry tones, a little bit of wizened red plum, a candied hint of Bassettâs wine gums and a sweet touch of toasty oak spice. The overall feel is firm and quite structured, thanks to the high acidity and moderately grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is ripe, juicy and moderately grippy with long, complex flavors of very ripe blackcurrants, savory meatiness, some toasty oak spice, light mocha tones, a little bit of wizened dark fruit, a hint of extracted woody bitterness and a touch of sweet, exotic spices.
A lush, noticeably ripe and rather polished Pauillac with great sense of structure but also a bit too sweet-toned overall character. The wine certainly bears the qualities of the warm 2009 vintage, but fortunately it has retained quite impressive structure and especially that high acidity that is vital in keeping the wine in balance. Overall the wine feels a bit too lush, polished and ripe for my taste, the oak being quite noticeably to the fore and the fruit having a sweet, at times almost even jammy quality, which I really donât find that attractive in a Bordeaux. This is a good wine, and also one that is built to last - based on how youthful the wine is, Iâd expect this to improve for another 10-15 years and keep for even longer - but it really isnât up my alley. I prefer my Bordeaux tougher, leaner and less sweet. (88 pts.)
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2002 ChĂąteau Cos dâEstournel - France, Bordeaux, MĂ©doc, St. EstĂšphe (20.11.2020)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (58%), Merlot (38%), Cabernet Franc (3%) and Petit Verdot (1%). 13,5% alcohol.
Dark, almost fully opaque blackish-red color with a somewhat evolved maroon hue and a thin brick-orange rim. Roasted, somewhat smoky and slightly sweet-toned nose with aromas of ripe blackcurrants, some toasty oak tones and sweet smoke, a little bit of charred sausage and some gamey meat, light woody notes of pencil shavings, a developed, sweet hint of pruney fruit and a touch of toasted exotic spices. Contrasting the somewhat sweet-toned nose, the wine is noticeably leaner on the palate with a medium body and savory, acid-driven flavors of fresh blackcurrants, some woody notes of pencil shavings, a little bit of sweet pruney fruit, light leathery tones, a savory hint of meaty umami and a touch of brambly black raspberry. The structure relies more on the high acidity than on the moderately resolved medium tannins. The finish is long, somewhat meaty and moderately grippy with savory flavors of ripe blackcurrants, some meaty umami, a little bit of peppery spice, light tertiary notes of beef jerky, a crunchy hint of fresh plummy fruit and a meaty touch of charred game.
Despite the relatively bold, sweet-toned nose, the wine turned out to be quite classic, sophisticated and even surprisingly meaty on the palate with quite balanced overall feel, thanks to the relatively high acidity and well-proportioned fruit. Although 2002 is not particularly memorable for a Bordeaux vintage, this has held up very nicely and although is starting to show some evolved, tertiary qualities, I can imagine this vintage will continue to improve for some years more. Very enjoyable at the moment, but will reward if left in a cellar for a handful of additional years. Drink or keep. (92 pts.)
Flashback from the acid trip
Luminous, very intense and still remarkably youthful neon yellow-green color. Intense, complex and seductive nose with somewhat evolved aromas of lemon marmalade, some caramelized ginger tones, a little bit of tangerine, light developed notes of melted butter, a hint of stony minerality and a perfumed touch of wild flowers. The wine is sweet, incisive and ridiculously acid-driven on the palate with a medium body and very intense flavors of lemony citrus fruits, some candied ginger, a little bit of coriander seed, light evolved notes of melted butter, a sharp hint of Granny Smith apple and a touch of steely minerality. Although the residual sugar makes the wine feel medium-sweet, the bracing acidity - typical of the vintage - keeps the sweetness wonderfully at bay and lends a very structured, almost electric feel to the wine. The crisp medium-sweet finish is very intense, lively and persistent with lengthy flavors of lemony citrus fruits and sweet nuances of tangerine, some ginger, a little bit of ripe grapefruit, light evolved creamy tones, an incisive hint of steely minerality and a touch of tangy salinity.
A ridiculously crisp and intense SpÀtlese with remarkable depth of flavor and outstanding balance between the residual sugar and the tremendous acidity. Although the wine is starting to show the first signs of age in those slightly creamy and buttery notes that intermingle between the tart and the sweet fruit flavors, the wine is still a mere baby and really screams for further aging. An outstanding Riesling by any standards. Even though the wine is stunning already now, there is so much unrealized potential here that it feels as though the wine is going to waste if opened now. Let it wait for another 10-15 years. (95 pts.)
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2010 Albert Gessinger Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese ** Alte Reben Caldo Infernale - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (20.11.2020)
A biodynamic Riesling from a particularly hot plot in the Zeltinger Sonnenuhr vineyard known as âKalkâ, recognized since the Roman times. âKalkâ doesnât actually refer to the chalk content of the soil, because the plot isnât particularly chalky - instead, âKalkâ comes from a historical Roman name âCalidusâ that means âhotâ. That is why this goes by the Italian name, which means âinfernally hotâ. The wine is aged for 2 years in old 1000-liter Fuders. 8,5% alcohol, 128 g/l residual sugar, 13,6 g/l acidity. Bottled under a natural cork.
Intense neon yellow-green color. Hazy with all that wine crystal, so careful decanting recommended. Sweet, concentrated nose with exceptionally intense aromas of lemon marmalade, some honeyed sweetness, light stony mineral tones, a little bit of candied ginger, a hint of ripe, zesty tangerine and a developed touch of creaminess. The wine is very concentrated, crisp and ridiculously acid-driven on the palate with powerful, sweet flavors of lemon marmalade, canned pineapple and candied ginger, some spicy red apple, a little bit of beeswax, light mineral notes of cool stones and tangy salinity, a hint of grapefruit bitterness and a touch of very ripe stone fruits. The bracing acidity lends tremendous sense of intensity and structure to the wine along with an almost electric zing that runs through the midpalate. Although the wine is as sweet as a dessert wine, the racy acidity keeps most of the sweetness well at bay and the overall feel is only medium in sweetness. The finish is quite sweet with very intense, electric and noticeably acid-driven flavors of steely minerality, lemon marmalade, some candied ginger tones, a little bit of tangy salinity, light honeyed tones, a hint of fruit salad and a touch of tangerine. The very powerful, rich and tangy aftertaste lingers on for minutes.
For more than 10 times Iâve written here in Cellartracker how this is one of the most exceptional Riesling Auslesen out there. The consistency here is something extraordinary as well; youâd think that one would get bored after drinking the same wine so many times, but no! Exactly as one of the attendees - in the tasting where this wine was served - said: âyouâd think youâd learn to know what to expect from this wine after youâve had it so many times, but no: the first sip of this wine always takes you by surpriseâ. The intensity, the acidity and the concentration here are just so astonishing. Seeing how very little the wine has evolved over these 4 years Iâve tasted it, it seems apparent this wine is aging at a glacial pace. (97 pts.)
Deep and slightly hazy golden yellow color with an evolved bronze hue. Aged, toasty and somewhat oxidative nose with aromas of roasted nuts, some grilled lemon tones, a little bit of sharp rancio, light mineral notes of flint smoke, a hint of caramel and a touch of toast. The wine is rich, evolved and somewhat viscous on the palate with a medium body and medium-sweet flavors of maple syrup, nutty notes of chopped almonds, a little bit of lemon marmalade, light stony mineral tones, a nutty hint of rancio and a touch of baked apple. Balanced high acidity. The finish is sharp, tangy and slightly oxidative with off-dry flavors of grapefruit-driven citrus fruits, tangy salinity, some browned butter, a little bit of stony minerality, light caramel tones, a hint of lemon marmalade and a touch of nutty rancio.
A stylish, nuanced and very enjoyable old Riesling from the very mature end of the spectrum. Not yet falling apart, but obviously has been sitting on its plateau of maturity for quite some while. Although some oxidative nuances have started to creep in, the wine still retains enough of its intense fruit character that the wine comes across as very balanced and enjoyable as a whole. Peaking now, time to drink up. While the wine might keep for some years more, I really donât see it benefiting from any further aging. (91 pts.)
Now it starts getting a bit crazy
Very dark and basically fully opaque black cherry color with an evolved figgy hue. Very developed and rather tertiary nose of raisins, dried dates, some lifted notes of sweet VA, light toasty oak tones, a hint of ripe black cherry and a touch of chocolatey oak. The wine is very ripe, evolved and noticeably tannic on the palate with an extracted overall feel and a full body. Intense flavors of pruney dark fruit, extracted woody bitterness, charred game, some raisiny tones, a little bit of toasty oak spice, light sour cherry tones, a hint of fresh dark plums and a bittersweet touch of dark chocolate. The high alcohol lends some warmth to the palate while both the high acidity and the assertive, grainy tannins keep the wine very structured and muscular. The finish is long, somewhat warm and rather heavy with very noticeable tannic grip and remarkably lengthy flavors of raisins, wizened sour cherries, some extracted woody bitterness, a little bit of ripe dark plum, light evolved notes of leather, sweet hints of pruned and dried dates and a touch of toasty oak spice.
A massively big, rich and heavy blockbuster of a wine that came across as surprisingly tertiary for its age - Iâve tasted older bottles of Collepiano that have been much more youthful in style. Iâm pushed to question the provenance of the wine, since a 10-yo Sagrantino really shouldnât feel this evolved yet. Nevertheless, itâs obvious that there is a ton of everything here - maybe a bit in excess, even, making the wine feel quite heavy and monolithic. My guesses ranged from Madiran to Cahors to Ribera del Duero and I assessed the wine to be 10-20 years older than it actually was. All in all, a fine wine, but weirdly evolved for its age. Perhaps not just the best bottle out there? (89 pts.)
Pale, slightly hazy whitish-green color. Floral and slightly wild nose with aromas of musky flowers, some pear, a little bit of quince, light fragrant notes of lemon-scented hand soap, a lifted hint of sweet VA and a touch of grapey fruit, The wine is frizzante, crisp and slightly wild on the palate with flavors of musky flowers, some pear, a little bit of sweet nail polish VA, light crunchy notes of quince and green apples, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of acetic roughness. The wine is high in acidity. The finish is floral, light and slightly wild with medium-long flavors of pear and tangerine, some acetic roughness in the throat, a little bit of tangy salinity, light floral tones and a hint of tart green apple.
A crisp, somewhat wild and rather harmless little frizzante. With somewhat less natty and volatile overall character this could be quite a pleasant effort for a fizzy summer white. Now the volatile notes of nail polish remover only compete with the perfumed floral notes of Muscat and the somewhat rough streak of acetic acidity lends a slightly unpleasant edge to the otherwise fresh overall feel. This wasnât a catastrophe, but nothing of real interest either. (80 pts.)
Surprisingly youthful neon yellow-green color for the age. Sweetish, somewhat evolved and slightly waxy nose with seductively complex aromas of beeswax, ripe zesty citrus fruits, some apple jam, light evolved caramel tones, a hint of orange marmalade and a touch of dried exotic fruits. The wine is ripe, waxy and medium-to-moderately-bodied on the palate with complex, dry-ish flavors of ripe citrus fruits, beeswax, tart green apples, some petrol tones, a little bit of pear jam, light stony mineral tones, a hint of sweet and slightly dried tropical fruits and a touch of chalky bitterness. Wonderfully crisp high acidity. The finish is dry, tasty and quite acid-driven with precise, lengthy flavors of lemony citrus fruits, chalky mineral bitterness, some wizened citrus fruit tones, a little bit of honeyed richness, light notes of stony minerality, evolved hints of candied ginger and beeswax and a touch of dried peach.
A wonderfully fresh, complex and still surprisingly youthful Rheingau Riesling. The wine is starting to show some evolved qualities, but as a whole the wine is surprisingly fresh, zesty and precise - the age shows more in how very open and expressive the wine is, seeing how many Querbach wines tend to be rather closed and understated for the first 7-10 years of their lives. This is in a wonderful spot right now, but I can see this one continuing to improve for many, many ears more. A bargain at mere 14,40âŹ. (95 pts.)
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2005 Fattoria Galardi Terra di Lavoro - Italy, Campania, Roccamonfina IGT (20.11.2020)
A blend of Aglianico (80%) and Piedirosso (20%) from vineyards averaging 11 years. Macerated with the skins for 20 days. Aged for 12 months in new Alliers and Nevers oak barriques. 13% alcohol, 5,35 g/l acidity and pH 3,7. Total production approximately 27,000 bottles.
Almost fully opaque, concentrated pomegranate color with an evolved mahogany hue. Savory, woody and somewhat dull nose with a little bit of wizened blackcurrant, a little bit of earth, light dusty tones and a hint of woody pencil shavings. The wine is dry, savory and bitter on the palate with flavors of wizened blackcurrants, some earth, a little bit of stone dust and a hint of cellar. High acidity with rather prominent tannic grip. The finish is noticeably grippy and tannic with dull, short and dusty flavors of earth and wizened dark fruits.
Somewhat corked. Not enough to kill the evolved fruit tones, but enough to taint the nose and taste with dull and musty notes of dust and earthen cellar. Disappointing. NR (flawed)
A flight of Tokaji wines to wrap it all up
Medium-deep amber color. Sweet, complex and very attractive nose with aromas of maple syrup, rose hips, some syrupy molasses, light lifted notes of sweet VA, a little bit of acacia honey, a hint of lemon marmalade and an oxidative touch of chopped nuts. The wine is intense, steely and remarkably acid-driven with a medium body and very focused flavors of maple syrup, some chalky minerality and burnt sugar bitterness, a little bit of oxidative nuttiness, light lemony citrus fruit tones, a hint of candied ginger and a touch of tart green apple. Although the high residual sugar makes the mouthfeel slightly sticky, the overall feel is very crisp, lively and electric, thanks to the bracing acidity. The finish is crisp, steely and very concentrated with sweet flavors of honey, some bruised apple, light bitter notes of burnt sugar, a little bit of tangy salinity, a hint of chopped nuts and a touch of lemon marmalade.
An outstanding, fresh and precise AszĂș 5 Puttonyos with wonderful purity and intensity. Thereâs a hint of volatile lift here, especially in the nose, but these notes only help to boost the rich, fruity qualities without making the wine feel particularly volatile in any way. Although the wine is starting to show the early signs of maturity in its slightly oxidative notes of nutty complexity, the overall feel is still very youthful and high-strung, promising volumes on the aging capability. This is a very rewarding wine right now, but I have no doubts it will continue to improve for at least a few decades, if not longer. Drink or keep. (95 pts.)
Concentrated, luminous and very developed, deep reddish-bronze color. Thick, sweet and powerful nose with bold, lush aromas of maple syrup, citrus fruit notes of lemon marmalade and tangerine, some evolved notes of autumnal leaves, a little bit of roasted chopped walnuts and a nutty whiff of pistachio, light juicy notes of pomegranate, a hint of stewed rose hips and a touch of caramel. The wine is very lively, precise and noticeably acid-driven on the palate with a relatively light body and complex, somewhat oxidative and very concentrated flavors of maple syrup and acacia honey, chopped hazelnuts, some smoky tones, a little bit of steely minerality, light tangy notes of lemony citrus fruits, a hint of candied ginger and a touch of burnt sugar bitterness. The bracing acidity lends outstanding freshness and intensity to the wine, offsetting a good deal from the residual sugar sweetness, making the wine appear somewhat less sweet than it actually is. The finish is sweet, very intense and slightly sticky with ridiculously long and complex flavors of salted caramel, lemon marmalade, some oxidative notes of bruised apple and roasted walnuts, a little bit of pomegranate, light tangy notes of tart citrus fruits, a hint of cooked rose hips and a touch of orange marmalade.
A ridiculously fresh, complex and fascinating AszĂș with lots of everything and then some. Seeing how the wine is 45 years old, it really belies its age with its surprisingly youthful overall character, exhibiting quite little of the oxidative notes one would expect an older Tokaji to show. However, the wine isnât a baby anymore and you can certainly taste the wine has seen some cellaring. Most likely the wine will continue to age for some more, but itâs hard to assess whether the wine will continue to improve slowly, evolving on a geological time scale, or if it has already reached its plateau of maturity, not improving but just developing into some other direction here. Nevertheless, this is an extraordinary Tokaji by any standards. Drink or keep - this wine isnât going to fall apart in the following handful of decades. Very highly recommended. (98 pts.)
The wine looks like used motor oil - the appearance is very evolved and quite oxidative blackish syrup that appears somewhat viscous and almost fully opaque. The bold, rich nose feels pungent, somewhat oxidative and slightly Madeirized with layered aromas of smoke, chocolate dressing, some syrupy molasses, light nutty notes of rancio, a little bit of split mahogany and a hint of burnt sugar. Although very old, the nose feels still quite attractive and captivating. The wine is rich, sweet and full-bodied with very tertiary yet quite lively flavors of syrupy molasses, caramel, tangy salinity, some smoky tones, a little bit of burnt sugar bitterness, light bruised apple tones, a hint of poached pear and a touch of nutty rancio. The overall feel is very sweet and somewhat sticky, but the ridiculously racy acidity lends outrageous freshness and sense of electricity to the wine, making it feel very precise and structured. The finish is remarkably lengthy with rich, complex and very tertiary flavors of syrupy molasses, some burnt sugar bitterness, a little bit of tart lemony citrus fruits, light bruised apple tones, a hint of stony minerality and a subtle yet persistent touch of tangy salinity.
A very tasty, captivating and remarkably complex Tokaji that is already going downhill, yet still retaining layers upon layers of nuance and flavor. Thereâs no denying that oxidation has started to creep in, but as the wine seems to have been ridiculously concentrated and intense in its youth, it is still holding back remarkably well. The oxidative notes and the almost electric acidity lend an almost Madeira-like feel to the wine, although the body and mouthfeel are that of a great Tokaji - remarkably light and delicate for a wine this powerful and sweet. Although the wine has a somewhat rustic nature that seems to be true of so many Tokajis made during the Soviet rule, this is anything but a simple, one-note dessert wine - how many dismiss the wines made during the Soviet rule. A very interesting and rewarding effort that wonât hold for much longer. Better drink now or relatively soon - thereâs no upside to any further cellaring. (94 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker
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