TNs: An Italian night

  • 2006 Elio Grasso Barolo Gavarini Chiniera - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (22/3/2021)
    Barolo can be moody creatures. Opened at lunchtime for dinner, this had a lovely floral nose of rose petals, strawberries when first popped. But it started to close up about 6 hours in to become stern and reticent, and slightly devoid of fruit. Towards the end of dinner it opened up to be show more mature and statesmanlike. Surprisingly light on its feet and elegant, it wasn’t a tannic beast for a Nebbiolo nor was the bracing acidity of 06 present. Outstanding balance, this is good to go but just follow it over the course of a day or so to catch it at the right time.
  • 2011 Conti Costanti Brunello di Montalcino - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino (22/3/2021)
    No riserva made in this year. Traditional Brunello aged in large Slavonian oak barrels, this was tight and unyielding at first but opened up to show a surprising amount of vanilla. Slightly alcoholic feel to the wine, preferred the 2012 which had more freshness and structure.
  • 1996 Fontanafredda Barolo Vigna La Rosa - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (21/3/2021)
    Classic aged Nebbiolo, high acidity and some fading fruits. Better than 2000 tried previously but I thought this still lacked delineation and detail. With air, it put on tertiary notes of mushroom and damp forest floor.
  • 1999 Tenuta Greppo (Biondi-Santi) Brunello di Montalcino - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino (21/3/2021)
    Still rather austere and young. An elegant and feminine (for the lack of a better word) expression of Sangiovese, balanced by some savoury notes and a good backbone of acidity. Only quibble was a slightly hot finish. Liked this but was overshadowed by the first two wines for me.
  • 2006 Azienda Agricola Montevertine Le Pergole Torte Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (21/3/2021)
    Wow this was on. When it was first opened, I think I liked it more than the others as it had a wonderful balance even though it was rather shy. But with time, it blossomed into such an expressive wine. Monumental tannin and fruit, but still showing lots of restraint if that makes sense. Gorgeous cherry fruit but it still had the stern and unforgiving nature of Sangiovese. Still ridiculously young, would love to try a mature version. Stunning wine, iron fist in velvet glove stuff.
  • 2008 Romano Dal Forno Valpolicella Superiore Vigneto di Monte Lodoletta - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Valpolicella Superiore (21/3/2021)
    This is still ridiculously young and tight but I can’t see it ever coming into balance. Figs and some nail varnish on the nose, but the biggest problem was on the palate. I am just not a fan of chocolate, licorice and sweet notes in wine, and the alcohol just sticks out way too much.
  • 2013 Tenuta Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino (21/3/2021)
    The funkiness of this wine dominated the nose, made in a modern style with full-on oak and extraction. Tasted of purple fruit, texture was a little glossy that left me a little confused when coupled with the rustic smell. Had the big structure of 2013 Brunellos that I liked, needs more time to come together.
  • 2016 Argillae Orvieto primo d’anfora - Italy, Umbria, Orvieto (21/3/2021)
    Grechetto 60%, Drupeggio 20%, Malvasia 20%. Interesting and rare white, slightly natural in style that gave it some complexity. Didn’t mind this but thought it fell a little short in terms of acidity.