TN: 2015 Beta Cabernet Sauvignon Vare Vineyard

  • 2015 Beta Cabernet Sauvignon Vare Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll District (5/8/2021)
    I was very excited about this wine as it came recommended and was a promise of something new. I know winemaker Ketan Mody has been developing his new Napa vineyard up on Moon Mountain for a decade and it’s on paper showing tremendous potential (can’t wait to try the wines from there when they become avail). And it seems he wants to make Cabs in a more modern Napa style, which also got me excited. This wine was however not from that vineyard (as it’s not ready yet), but from the Vare Vineyard.

Labeling and design is really cool and fresh, but perhaps my expectations had gotten out of hand, but at $120-180/bottle and the promise of a modern Napa, it’s understandable. Now, I should say this is a good wine, make no mistake. Solid all the way. It’s alcohol level is on point at 13.5% and hinting at the path they want to take. But after a pretty nose, unfortunately I don’t taste much of that “new Napa” that had kind of got me so interested - this feels like a traditional Napa cab that has had the volume turned down about 30%. There’s oak, slightly obscured fruit and all the classic markers, it’s just less in your face. I feel bad dissing that, because that’s commendable and a good thing, I had just expected something radically different, I suppose. Problem lies with me, I realize that.

If you like Napa cabs but want less of a heavy approach, this might just be the right one for you. If you’re looking for a completely new take on the Napa cab, this isn’t it. (90 pts.)

Posted from CellarTracker

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Enjoyed the note but you lost me with the “new Napa” aspect. I think that’s exactly the opposite of what the intent of this wine is…it’s old school without pretense. Think wines from the 1970s. And like those older wines, I believe this one is going to take some time to reveal itself.

Again, this is my take on it and I could be way off base on what Ketan’s intent is.

I thought what Adam meant by new Napa is old Napa. But I could be wrong.

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A few observations. I don’t think your note is unfair. 2015 is extremely tight and one of Ketan’s bigger wines. Try the 13 Monticello that is my favorite to show what he is doing and has a nice green element that I love in old school cabs.

And see my note here for the 2019 Jasud!

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Thanks for the note! Did you decant at all? If I recall Ketan recommended 6-8 hours for the 2016s.

I was wondering the same thing re: new Napa. because honestly I dont even think I would consider “new Napa” (like matthiasson) to be like “old Napa” in many ways except maybe the ABVs. but, I also never got to try 70s and 80s Mondavis young soooo…

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I have only opened the 13 vare; I’ve opened a 14 monticillo which was nice but very different than the vare. I think the monticillo may be more your speed.

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Opened a 2014 Moon Mountain Cabernet today. The blackberry as I poured it into a decanter was amazing. Actually shocking. Took a little sip before letting it sit and it was quite fresh. After a few hour decant the herbal notes, iron and long finish with acidity really come thru. I rarely attempt to project a wines aging potential but the acid and structure here seems to say it would last for many more years.

Have two more bottles. I expect to not touch them for a long time but that will be tough.

When I meant old Napa, I meant the super-extraction era, roughly.

I did pour it into the decanter, but then proceeded to immediately drink it from decanter… champagne.gif A common problem in my household. So it probably did not see enough air.

Robert - I’ll try to source some of that. I’m still very eager to try his wines from his own vineyard up on the hill - does anyone know when they might get released?

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Just had the 16 yesterday. Seemed incredibly under ripe and tannic. How does one predict the future that it would be a glorious wine in 20-25 years? There was nothing in it that said there’s the material in the background that would emerge.

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I imagine that’d need a big decant. I felt exactly that way when I first drank the 13. It took awhile in decanter before it transformed.

Alas if it was only GC burgundy it would be hailed as having strong aging potential! Jokes! As I see it the difficulty is lack of performance history…easy enough to look back on what are now legendary napa cabs from the 70s that were tannic beasts for years before transforming into the timeless gems they are today. And there is no shortage of projection that can occur with wine where we want to believe that a bottle will transform into something magical after slumbering in the cellar for a decade+.

So who knows…maybe the truth is somewhere in between. I really enjoyed the '13 Vare but haven’t opened up any of the other vintages. Charlie, your note reminds me of some of the older Arnot Roberts cabs (when they were first released and then years later)…some turned into really enjoyable wines while others are still really hard to pleasureably drink (oh I still drink them though). Some of the older Fellom Ranch vintages come to mind. Sometimes the magic is in the bottle and takes its time to emerge…and sometimes it was never there in the first place.

You can at least taste the stuffing and fruit in young well made grand cru red burgundy to see the material in the bottle.

With Beta you’re just hoping it matches what your sensory memory has cataloged for wines you tasted 30+ years ago.

So well made GC burgundy doesn’t shut down?

With Beta I’m not hoping it matches wines from 30+ years ago. I’m trusting in two things: that the source material is still the same and that the winemaker didn’t have a stroke and completly change his winemaking style/process. Yeah vintages vary but by no means am I praying/hoping it’s the next '74 Chappellet. That would be…quite, quite silly. Perhaps some people do that, and more power to them for their sincere, albeit blind and relentless, positivity.

The only other public tasting note for the unreleased 2016 Vare is from a Galloni tasting in 2018. It was a decidely different tasting note from yours…what was described as “ample, broad and creamy…racy and deeply expressive” in 2018 could be completely shut down right now in 2021. And when it’s released for public consumption either later this year or early next year, it may be somewhere in between those two reference points. I’ll be buying it when it’s available to the general public and hope it’s inline with my previous experience.

Sorry just informed it was 2014 not 2016.

re high quality grand cru burg: it doesn’t shut down to the point it’s under ripe and tannic. I guess unless it’s roumier :slight_smile:

That’s why I use roumier to polish my floors. It’s incredible how it really brings the shine out in old wood.

Nearly every Napa winemaker I knew at the time said the same thing about 2011 Cabernet. If the tastings I’ve been in are anything to go by, time is proving that sentiment to be a less than accurate prediction.

Someone pointed out an error to me, so wanted to correct that: Ketan’s estate is on Diamond Mountain in Napa, not Moon Mountain in Sonoma.

While not apples to apples, I think 2017 is going to follow a similar path. A little time in bottle will heal some of the vintage scars and these will be much better at age 5+. Think 2003, which was much better at 8-10 than it was upon release (imo).

Yesterday’s spirited discussion demanded that I pop the '14 Vare last night with a few napa cab freaks. Very interesting responses from the group. Generaly consesus was that I’m awesome. People also liked the wine although one person (Griff) claimed it made him blind but he was already (legally) blind to begin with and it’s his common refrain when drinking alcohol so we dismissed his claim. My note as follows and some of the group’s comments below: “Napa cab wearing a Santa Cruz leisure suit and wearing it very well indeed. If you are looking for or crave a bold napa cab, look elsewhere friend. This is all about understated elegance at this stage in its life, which to be clear is very early on indeed. Intense violets & cassis on the nose which is accentuated by some slightly bitter cherry on the palate. Almost feels like you’re popping tiny little grape clusters in your mouth as you drink it, forcing you to focus on the nuance of each sip. And really at the end of the day that’s what this wine is all about: nuance. It lingers…a slowly fading snapshot of a bygone California winemaking era for those who care about such things…and I do. Really enjoyed this wine!”

Select comments from the group:

“Violet stun gun set to max level”
“This is the Jack Sprat version of Napa Cab…no fat”
“Pour more Krug so I can enjoy myself more…this is on the lean side but fun to drink”
“This is a cab for everyone who always thought Superman was a bit of a d!ck.” (Note: This comment was from Griff. Nobody really understood what he meant until he clarified that he was talking about Superman as played by Christopher Reeves. And even then we were confused. This is right around the time we started to suspect that Griff had been engaged in some serious day drinking prior to coming over. This was later confirmed to be true.)
“I want to like this more but it’s missing oomph in the mid palate and I wonder if will ever find that extra gear.”
“SUPERMAN I DEFY YOU”



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