TN: 2018 Peter Michael L'Après-Midi

This is quite fine and well made, but feels like it doesn’t quite know what it wants to be. The wine comes across as rather austere and perhaps even a bit self-serious and joyless; the nose has some light gooseberry, honeyed lime, and light seashell minerality, but certainly doesn’t explode out of the glass. It’s well-balanced - not at all hot for its near 15% ABV - and fresh with perceptible but judicious oak usage. I just don’t think there’s that much interest here. I’d rather it had just committed to being an exuberant, delicious wine, and instead it occupies a middle ground that leaves me wanting.