I can’t think of a wine that has changed as much in the bottle as ‘82 Cheval. I first tasted it in 1984 just after it came to New York. It was part of a 1982 tasting, and we went to see what the fuss was about. We came away impressed, and the following day I went to Sherry Lehman and bought more. Lots of Gruaud Larose, a few bits and pieces and the only “First Growth” Cheval, which for me beat out the others by some margin.
The case was drunk all to early, the last bottles did not show as well as the first. It seemed to have lost concentration and the finish was shorter than I remembered. I tasted it a couple of times in the last five years, and it seemed to be improving. A couple of years ago, I did a mini vertical with 1983 and 1985. Suddenly the wine was as I remembered it, rich, precise, complex with a terrific finish.
I bought a case in the UK, which gave me an excuse to open a bottle. On its own, no distractions, no other wines, and accompanied by roast beef. It was magnificent, the best showing so far, with the fruit still hanging in, but licorice, leather, cedar and spice. The finish was superb, this was layered with flavor that seemed unable to stop itself. With the beef as a back drop, the wine was able to really show what it was capable of, and that was close to if not a perfect wine. 99+ points
I remember this wine about 1985 at a tasting of 82 Bordeaux. Impressed me so much I broke the bank and bought 3 bottles at the high price of $42.50 per bottle, the most I had ever paid for a bottle of wine.
Had this in a vertical led by Clive Coates '64-'90 in the early-mid 90s, seemed at the time dramatically different than all the rest, as though someone had inserted Bevan as a ringer. So memorable.
Agree with your impression , it really tastes nice now , and certainly versus 10 years ago .
I also always enjoyed Gruaud 82 , best wine they ever made
Drank an 82’ Cheval with the 1st growth 82’ lineup last month. CB showed great. Several had it toward the middle/upper tier. I don’t think they are getting any better however, so if you have them, drink up.
Great story and note, thanks Mark. I’ve only had the ‘82 once - around 2015 - and it was fabulous. So deep and multifaceted. Odd to remember a wine so clearly after a number of years.