I review wine clubs for a living (since 2009). After reading this article I was dejected about my previous faith in Wirecutter. What an embarrassment. 100s of wine clubs, they taste test 5, pick 3, and call that a good review?
They worked with a somm (presumably because the author is a general “Kitchen” writer) and I can’t help but see that 3 of 5 clubs they taste tested are somm clubs.
The review was definitely geared more toward the Wine Berserkers audience than the general wine-drinking public. It was accompanied by a long article about private label wine, something that most wine drinkers could care less about, even after it’s explained to them.
I love Wine Access but I think WC missed out on WA’s best club. I’ve reviewed (tasted multiple) shipments from three of their clubs and their Michelin Subscription is fantastic.
I haven’t ordered from SommSelect but I’m on their mailing list and their Build a Case subscription looks like a good way to order from them if you’re club-averse.
FWIW, as Wine Berserkers, I’d consider Picked by Wine.com — it’s the equivalent of walking into a giant wine store and asking an actual sommelier what you should drink based on what you know you like.
You might also want to check out the brand new club by Vices called Iconic Wine Club. Their inaugural shipment is going out soon. I know what’s in it but I can’t disclose it until December 3. At $295 per shipment, it’s not cheap, but IMO it’s worth it.
For those of you wondering, no, they didn’t order them based on how much affiliate payouts are. And SommSelect does not, to my knowledge, have any kind of affiliate program.
I would worry less about the influence of advertising on the editorial and more about the slanted point of view. The somm they worked with clearly had a lot of influence on what was reviewed and even discussed in the “How to choose a wine club for yourself” section. Most retail wine club members have no idea what a sommelier is and most retail wine club members cannot imagine paying $25+ for a bottle of wine except on a special occasion.