TN: '71 PdB Montestefano and '07 Dauvissat les Clos

My better half became a year more mature this weekend. I asked what she would like to drink tonight. She requested Chablis and mature nebbiolo. One of many reasons I love that woman.

Dinner was simple. One course. We had a nearly technically perfect Aquerello risotto with Grana Padano to accompany both wines. Simple transcends complex at times. This was one of those times.

A steely, soil driven nose with chalk, oyster shell, lemon pith and curd, nuts, and subtle white florals. On the palate, this has terrific density and dry extract, yet comes across without any heaviness. Iron fist in a velvet glove Chablis style. Chalky and deep, with mouthwatering freshness on the palate, with more of the same citrus notes, and nuttiness that adds complexity. Archetypal Chablis drinking at peak with plenty of time in hand. Chiseled, yet it still has a waxiness to the texture that adds breadth and complexity. Power and grace. Like drinking mineral water. Hedonists run away. For me, this is wonderful (96 pts.)

Iron, tar, darker nebbiolo fruit, decaying leaves, and violet as much as dried rose florals on the nose. This is muscular, meaty, savory wine where fruit and perfume play a supportive role. On the palate, it’s dense and structured for a wine this age, while remaining very well balanced. On the palate, more of the same structured savory notes. Finishes long on the back end with more ferrous, earthy, and subtle balsamic notes. Among the '71 crus, this is a forceful, less subtle wine, but also the one that is likely holding on the best. Outstanding. 93 (93 pts.)

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