TN: Aligoté, pt. 2: another study of 14 wines

This is a follow-up to my earlier report of 16 Aligoté wines.

This time we had “just” 14 bottles to compare, but also some extra wines before and after the main event: one nice Champagne to kick off the tasting, two blinds (one which I managed to nail pretty quickly) and finally a nice sticky to close the evening.

Of course the main attraction in this event was a trio of Ponsot’s Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Clos des Monts Luisants, it being the only 1er Cru Aligoté in Burgundy (and, by extension, in the world). It’s certainly quite pricey for an Aligoté - on average it is constantly in the top 5 of the world’s most expensive Aligotés - but this tasting proved that when it is good, it can really offer some serious bang for the buck.

It was also very nice to taste once again some Terroir al Límit. Priorat usually isn’t my cup of tea, being way too ripe, monolithic and too high in alcohol for my taste. However, Terroir al Límit consistently produces some of the most sophisticated, delicate and - for the lack of better word - Burgundian Priorats I know. I really should get some more of these, they never seem to disappoint.

Another positive surprise was the 2014 Aligoté by Mikulski. While often balanced and enjoyable wines, I’ve never really “gotten” the Mikulski wines. For the most part, they’ve been just somewhat bland and understated for my taste - and not in that positively neutral, mineral style how the best Chablis, Chenin Blanc and Muscadet wines can be. Just somehow meh. However, this 2014 Aligoté was something completely different, showing the intensity, precision and depth so many Mikulski wines have been wanting.

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  • NV Voirin-Jumel Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée 555 Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (22.7.2021)
    All Chardonnay from Côte des Blancs. The base wine is fermented and aged 6 months in oak barrels. No MLF. The wine itself is composed of 5 consecutive vintages, of which the base wine is 80% and reserve wines are 20%. Aged for 50 months on the lees before disgorgement. 12% alcohol.

Youthful pale green color. Clean nose with aromas of ripe red apple, some leesy notes, a little bit of creaminess, light citrus fruit nuances, oaky hints of savory wood spice and vanilla and a touch of slivered almonds. The wine is fresh, crisp and harmonious on the palate with flavors of fresh red apple, some tangy green apple, a little bit of lemony citrus fruit, light oaky nuances of sweet creaminess, nutty hints of almonds and peanut butter and a touch of salinity. Good, fresh and quite persistent mousse with bright acidity. The finish is balanced and quite long with flavors of ripe citrus fruits, some appley notes, a little bit of creaminess, light chalky mineral tones, a hint of tangy salinity and a touch of savory wood spice.

A fresh and balanced Blanc de Blancs. I was surprised how clean, bright and mineral the wine was, seeing how all the wines are fermented and aged in oak barrels and the wine is kept for more than four years on the lees - I was expecting a somewhat toastier and nuttier style. There are some subtle nutty tones and the oak does show a little bit, but as a whole the wine is pretty a pretty classic Blanc de Blancs with emphasis on tart, apple-and-citrus-driven fruit and mineral notes. Seeing how very youthful the wine still is, I can see this continue to age and improve for years more. Good stuff, albeit not that remarkable nor memorable, at least for the time being. (90 pts.)

Pale yellow-green color. Quite restrained and perhaps slightly reductive nose with subtly sweet-toned and rather underwhelming aromas of rubber, some Golden Delicious d apple, light leesy notes of cream, a little bit of savory wood spice and a hint of white peach. The wine is ripe yet rather light-bodied, moderately neutral and even somewhat watery on the palate with a bit underwhelming, subtly reductive flavors of spicy red apple, some metallic tones, a little bit of chalky minerality, light steely notes, a hint of rubber and a touch of salinity. Bright, high acidity. The finish is lively and acid-driven with light and somewhat short flavors of fresh apple, some metallic notes, a little bit of leesy creaminess, light sappy herbal notes and a hint of salinity.

I was baffled by this wine: I had had it before, and I had enjoyed its positively neutral, almost Alpine freshness back then. This time, however, the wine was very different. Noticeably neutral, yes, but instead coming across more bland and watery than refreshing, its somewhat closed flavors lacking all intensity and sense of precision. Furthermore, there seemed to be a hint of reduction, which made the wine both smell and taste slightly rubbery, which really didn’t help much - conversely, it might explain why the wine came across so reticent and dilute. In our Aligoté tasting of 14 different wines, this wine was a dud and disappointment. Tasting it next to the 2017 vintage, the difference was vast, to the benefit of the younger bottle. (80 pts.)

Youthful pale greenish color. Creamy, slightly toasty and quite Burgundian nose with aromas of spicy red apple, some flinty smoke, a little bit of ripe citrus fruit, light sappy notes of herbal spice and a hint of salty liquorice powder. The wine is fresh, balanced and light-to-medium-bodied on the palate with bright yet subtly toasty flavors of salty liquorice, some red apple, light savory oak notes of wood spice, a little bit of stony minerality, a floral hint of white flowers and a touch of creamy oak. The zippy high acidity lends good sense of structure and freshness to the wine. The finish is long and mouth-cleansing with brisk flavors of tangy salinity, sharp notes of lemony citrus fruits, light nuances of tangy Granny Smith apple, a little bit of toasty wood spice, a hint of creamy oak and a touch of gunpowder smoke.

A bright and tasty Aligoté that combines the zippy freshness and crisp fruit notes typical of the variety with the more toasty and slightly smoky Burgundian notes more typical of Bouzeron wines. Nothing too complex, but nothing to criticize, either. Great sense of freshness, balance and structure here that goes really well with the judicious use of oak. The overall feel is still very youthful and I could see this wine benefiting from further cellaring, even though it drinks really nicely right now. (90 pts.)

  • 2017 Domaine de Bellene Bourgogne-Aligoté - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Aligoté (22.7.2021)
    100% organically farmed Aligoté from a vineyard planted in 1964 right next to the northern reaches of the city of Beaune. Harvested on 9th of September, 2017. The whole grape bunches are crushed, the must is left to settle in stainless steel and the racked into 600-liter oak demi-muids to ferment spontaneously. Bottled on November 7th, 2018. 13,5% alcohol. Total production 1893 bottles.

Yellow-green color. Ripe, youthful and slightly spicy nose with nuanced aromas of herbal spice, some white peach, light sweeter nuances of ripe exotic fruits and a hint of leesy creaminess. The wine is firm, fruity and slightly concentrated on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and vibrant flavors of fresh citrus fruits, some mineral notes of tangy salinity, a little bit of ripe white fruit, light peachy notes, a hint of leesy creaminess accentuated by the creamy barrel notes and a touch of cool, stony minerality. The zippy acidity keeps the wine wonderfully in balance and lends good sense of structure to the mouthfeel. The finish is long and juicy with bright, fruit-driven flavors of ripe red apples and tart citrus fruits, some white peach, a little bit of sappy herbal spice, light creamy notes of oak, a hint of tangy salinity and a touch of sweeter exotic fruit.

A very nice, bright and somewhat concentrated Aligoté with lots of ripe fruit that is balanced out by the mineral nuances and brisk acidity. While the wine doesn’t feel particularly primary, it is still very youthful in style and most likely will improve for at least a handful of years more. A very well-made, rewarding Aligoté. Great value at 17€. (91 pts.)

  • 2018 Marc Colin et Fils Bourgogne-Aligoté - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Aligoté (22.7.2021)
    Grapes come from vineyards planted in Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet and Saint-Aubin, farmed organically since 2006. Vinified and aged for 5 months in oak barrels. 12% alcohol.

Pale and rather neutral whitish-green color. At first the nose feels rich and creamy with aromas of ripe yellow stone fruits, some apple jam, a little bit of stony minerality and light savory notes of phenolic spice, then a slightly funky undercurrent gains prominence, bringing in notes of wax and new leather, adding a subtly lambic-like note to the nose. Some found the wine a bit weird, but I found the nose quite fascinating and attractive. The wine is wonderfully crisp, sharp and tangy on the palate with its bracing acidity and dry flavors of tart green apples and lemony citrus fruits, stony minerality, some tangy salinity and a little bit of ripe white fruits. However, the seems to be a bit of brett here, as the wine also picks up light wild nuances of liver pâte, something metallic and a hint of slightly bitter phenolic spice. The racy acidity makes the wine feel wonderfully brisk and structured. The finish is fresh, sharp and lively with long flavors of tart green apples and lemony citrus fruits, some leathery notes, a little bit of waxy funk, light steely mineral notes, a hint of iodine and a touch of creamy oak.

A very surprising and atypical Aligoté. I was expecting Marc Colin’s wine to be fresh and racy despite the hot 2018 vintage - which it was - but the slightly funky (most likely bretty) nuances took me by surprise. Some notes, like leather and waxy funk, managed to blend with the fruitier notes quite well, but the phenolic, somewhat bitter and slightly metallic nuances less so. All in all, it felt like there was an excellent, wonderfully acid-driven old-school Aligoté underneath, but having some atypical funky notes on top. In our Aligoté tasting of 14 wines, this really stood out stylistically from the lineup, but quality-wise not - in the sense that even though it wasn’t among the best wines, it wasn’t bad in any way. I have no idea if we had just an off bottle or if this vintage was just weird, so it’s hard to assess whether my note is really representative of the wine or not. Well, it’s a fun and enjoyable wine all the same and great value at 14€ - especially if you love zippy acidity! (89 pts.)

  • 2018 Joseph Colin Bourgogne-Aligoté Les Jardins de la Côte - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Aligoté (22.7.2021)
    A single-vineyard Aligoté from lieu-dit Les Jardins de la Côte, which is planted to 70-yo vines within the Saint-Aubin appellation. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts, aged in 350-liter oak barrels. 12,5% alcohol.

Youthful and very slightly hazy pale green color. Surprisingly Sauvignon Blanc-like nose with sharp aromas of grass, currant leaves and green currants, some cat’s pee character, a little bit of sweaty gym locker room, light creamy notes of oak, a candied hint of gummi bears and a touch of passion fruit. The wine is crisp, lively and medium-bodied on the palate with bright, vivid flavors of tart green apples and passion fruit, some sweeter notes of gummi bear candies, light pink grapefruit tones, a little bit of tangy salinity, a hint of tart lemony citrus fruit and a touch of steely minerality. The pungent, slightly herbaceous Sauvignon Blanc aromas don’t seem to appear on the palate, so the wine basically has a textbook Aligoté taste. The bright, racy acidity lends great freshness and intensity to the wine. The finish is long, crisp and slightly steely with precise flavors of tart lemon and apple peel bitterness, some tangy salinity, a little bit of grassy greenness, light passion fruit tones, a candied hint of gummi bears or other soft fruit candies and a touch of cat pee.

A very odd and atypical Aligoté. When the wine was poured, everybody was surprised by the nose and some were wondering whether this was a Sauvignon Blanc from Saint-Bris - especially the grassy notes and hints of cat’s pee with the sweeter nuances of passion fruit made the wine smell almost like a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc! However, the taste was completely different and on the palate the wine was pretty much everything you could ask for a young Aligoté. Even the warm 2018 vintage wasn’t evident at all, the wine being so crisp, spry and zippy. Even though the nose didn’t promise much, the wine managed to deliver on the palate, big time. I hope some further aging might make the nose come better together and bring some additional tertiary complexity to the palate. Although pretty lovely right now, I can imagine this wine will continue to improve for another 10 years or so. Priced according to its quality at 23€. (92 pts.)

  • 2018 David Moret Bourgogne-Aligoté Le Grand A - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Aligoté (22.7.2021)
    The back label says “Cepage oublié”. Made with purchased fruit that is sourced from a contract grower farming a 60-yo Aligoté vineyard in Bouzeron. Fermented and aged for 18 months in oak barrels (approximately 1/4 new). Bottled unfiltered. 12,5% alcohol.

Surprisingly intense and relatively deep yellow-green color. The nose feels simply huge with complex and somewhat sweetish - almost primary - aromas of passion fruit, ripe pear and pear drops, some nectarine, a little bit of apricot-driven baby food character, light sappy green notes of birch leaves, a hint of key lime and a creamy touch of oak. The wine is surprisingly big and concentrated for an Aligoté, yet still surprisingly fresh and crisp on the palate with a rather full body and still moderately primary flavors of passion fruit-driven exotic fruits, some lemony citrus fruits, a little bit of blood orange, light creamy notes of oak, light nectarine notes, a hint of tangy salinity and a touch of savory umami character. The bright, high acidity lends a great counterpoint to the full body and concentrated fruit. The finish is long, bright and steely with intense, concentrated flavors of blood orange, some passion fruit, light creamy notes of oak, a little bit of fruit salad, light waxy notes, a hint of dried mango and a brackish touch of salinity.

A very surprising and distinctively tropical Aligoté that would probably be impossible to recognize for the variety were the bottle served blind. The lush, exotic fruit notes are very confusing, as they are something I’ve never had in an Aligoté before. There’s really lots of things going on here and I’m not sure if this wine is a work of genius or a fruit bomb crowdpleaser. Really, I don’t know what to think of it. An idiosyncratic wine if there ever was one. Probably not as good as a light and fresh food wine like a traditional, zippy Aligoté would be, but an interesting and high-quality effort all the same. I’d rather give the wine a 88-92 rating than a single score, but these are the cards we have to play with. (90 pts.)

  • 2018 Patrick Piuze Bourgogne-Aligoté “1953” - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Aligoté (22.7.2021)
    Made with purchased fruit from a vineyard planted in 1953 in Saint-Bris, i.e. up in the northern reaches of Burgudy. Fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks and old oak pièces. 11,5% alcohol.

Pale whitish-green color. Clean, somewhat restrained and slightly waxy nose with aromas of crunchy yellow apple, some chalky mineral notes, a little bit of fresh white fruit, light leesy notes of creaminess and perhaps a slightest hint of characterful funk. The wine is surprisingly broad and relatively full-bodied on the palate, given the cool and somewhat closed nose. There are concentrated yet also very crisp and precise flavors of juicy white fruits, some tart green apple notes, a little bit of waxy funk, light leesy notes of creaminess, a hint of ripe citrus fruits and a touch of phenolic spice. The acid-driven finish is clean, lively and palate-cleansing with crisp and quite persistent flavors of tangy Granny Smith apple, some creamy notes, a little bit of waxy funk, light sweeter notes of ripe yellow fruits and a hint of zesty citrus fruit.

A fresh, tasty and surprisingly nuanced Aligoté that felt quite “Chablis” in the nose - that is very cool, mineral and rather low-key - but turned out to be surprisingly ripe and concentrated on the palate with wonderful depth of flavor, yet never once losing that vital zip and freshness that defines Aligoté. Truly a great combination of ripeness typical of the 2018 vintage and the verve, freshness and minerality more typical of both northern Burgundy and Aligoté. This is really excellent stuff - drinking so wonderfully right now, but also showing quite a bit of potential for further development. Solid value at 20€. (93 pts.)

  • 2016 Domaine François Mikulski Bourgogne-Aligoté - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Aligoté (22.7.2021)
    Aligoté from a parcel of which a part was planted in 1928 and another part in 1948, the latter by Mikulski’s grandfather. Fermented and aged on the lees in stainless steel tanks until the summer following the harvest. Typically the production from this parcel is 9000 bottles, but due to severe spring frosts and hailstorms, only 1500 bottles of 2016 vintage was produced. 12% alcohol.

Pale and very slightly hazy greenish color. Fresh, clean and restrained nose with somewhat neutral aromas of green apples, some lemony citrus fruits, a little bit of leesy creaminess, light steely mineral notes and a minty hint of herbal spice. Although the nose shows nice nuances, it really isn’t giving much - the difference between the bolder and more concentrated vintage 2014 that was tasted alongside is obvious. The wine is brisk, fresh and quite intense on the palate with a light-to-medium body and rather focused flavors of ripe Granny Smith apple, some fresh white fruit notes, a little bit of tangy salinity, light notes of leesy creaminess, a crunchy hint of star fruit and a touch of key lime. Racy acidity. The finish is clean, fresh and lively with quite long flavors of ripe citrus fruits, some steely mineral notes, a little bit of tangy salinity, light appley notes, a hint of fresh white fruit and a touch of smoky minerality.

A nice, fresh and focused Aligoté. Perhaps a bit on the predictable and slightly neutral side of things, but not really in a bad way. I often find Mikulski’s wines pure and well-made, but lacking a bit in character, and this is no exception. It’s a lovely Aligoté that drinks wonderfully now and might improve for a handful of years more, but in a tasting of 14 different Aligoté wines, this wine just gets lost in the crowd. Nevertheless, a solid weekday wine and good value at 16€. (88 pts.)

  • 2014 Domaine François Mikulski Bourgogne-Aligoté - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Aligoté (22.7.2021)
    Aligoté from a parcel of which a part was planted in 1928 and another part in 1948, the latter by Mikulski’s grandfather. Fermented and aged on the lees in stainless steel tanks until the summer following the harvest. Total production 9000 bottles. 12% alcohol.

Pale green color. Fresh, zippy and bright nose with aromas of ripe citrus fruits, some sharp green apple tones, a little bit of smoky reduction, light sweeter honeyed notes and a hint of ripe juicy white fruits. The overall impression shows more depth and concentration compared to the vintage 2016 that was tasted alongside. The wine is crisp, lively and somewhat steely on the palate with a light-to-medium body and very precise flavors of key lime and tart Granny Smith apple, some mineral notes of wet stones, a little bit of sappy herbal spice, light crunchy notes of star fruits, a juicy hint of cantaloupe and a touch of tangy salinity. The bracing acidity lends a very structured, almost electric feel to the wine. The finish is crisp, lively and almost incisive with long, acid-driven flavors of tart Granny Smith apple and ripe citrus fruits, some fresh white fruits, light notes of sappy herbal spice, a little bit of tangy salinity, a hint of steely minerality and a touch of honeyed richness.

A beautiful, precise and still very high-strung Aligoté that is very true to the variety in its brisk, acid-driven lemony flavors and light body, but at the same time shows remarkable intensity and sense of concentration, probably thanks to the exceptional 2014 vintage. Normally I’m not a big fan of Mikulski’s wines - they are almost invariably very well-made, but lacking some character or persona, making them feel somewhat - i don’t know - boring? to me. However, this wine was definitely not boring! All about pure, unadulterated Aligoté fruit with incisive acidity, piercing minerality and remarkable intensity of fruit. Overall the wine feels still remarkably youthful for its age and I can see it keeping well easily for another decade or so. Outstanding value at 16€. (93 pts.)

  • 2017 Comte Armand Bourgogne-Aligoté - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Aligoté (22.7.2021)
    The wine is a blend of Aligoté Doré from a parcel planted in 1932 in Meursault (95%) and Aligoté Vert from a parcel planted in 2005 in Volnay (5%), both farmed biodynamically. Aged for 12 months on the lees in old 500-600-liter demi-muids. Total production 3000 bottles. 12,5% alcohol.

Youthful, pale yellow-green color. Slightly smoky nose with an overall character that feels both slightly flinty and subtly toasty. Aromas of ripe, sweet-toned golden apple, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of reductive smoke, light oaky notes of cooked cream, a more exotic hint of mango and a touch of toasty wood spice. The wine is bright, focused and quite crisp on the palate with a medium body and intense flavors of tart green apples and lemony citrus fruits, some sweeter cantaloupe character, a little bit of creamy oak with a slightly buttery edge, a light smoky notes of flint or struck match, a hint of apple peel bitterness and a touch of tangy salinity. The brisk acidity lends great freshness and sense of precision to the wine. The finish is crisp and racy with focused flavors of tart green apples and sharp lemony citrus fruits, some tangy salinity, a little bit of creamy oak, light toasty wood notes, a hint of fresh tropical fruits and a touch of apple peel bitterness.

A crisp, racy and focused Aligoté with some oak influence that lends a somewhat Burgundian feel to the wine. I remember some people in the tasting commenting how they felt the wine was too oaky, but even though the wine showed more oak influence than most of the 14 Aligotés we tasted, I didn’t find the wine excessively oaky - conversely, I found the oak use quite judicious here. Overall the wine seemed to be a very serious effort, not your typical little weekday white as Aligoté too often is, but instead meant to be a real world-class wine with depth, structure and intensity. And you know what, I think they succeeded in that. This is not a tart, thin and uninteresting Aligoté suitable on for Kir; this is a nuanced and still very high-strung white Burgundy that is only starting to drink well now. Most likely this will continue to improve for many more years. Excellent stuff, great value at 20€. (93 pts.)

  • 2017 Domaine François de Nicolay Bouzeron - France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Bouzeron (22.7.2021)
    Made with biodynamically farmed grapes from 30-yo vineyards Bouzeron. Fermented spontaneously and aged for 14 months in oak barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered with minimal SO2. 13% alcohol.

Pale and very slightly hazy greenish-yellow color. Somewhat restrained and slightly underwhelming nose with light aromas of apple, rubbery reduction, some vague waxy tones and a little bit of fresh white fruit. The wine feels enjoyably crisp, but aromatically somewhat closed and underwhelming on the palate with a medium body and rather restrained flavors of fresh green apples, some woolly lanolin, a little bit of tangy salinity, light crunchy notes of whitecurrants and tart citrus fruits, a hint of rubbery reduction and a touch of steely minerality. The bracing acidity lends a great structure to the wine. The finish is crisp, light and lively with medium-long flavors of tart green apples, some lemony citrus fruits, a little bit of rubbery reduction, light mineral notes of wet stones and tangy salinity and a crunchy hint of whitecurrants.

An enjoyably crisp but otherwise quite underwhelming Bouzeron. It’s hard to say whether the wine was just closed because of the reduction or if this was just a very underwhelming vintage. However, the wine offered relatively little, apart from the brisk acidity. Even several hours of breathing didn’t seem to help at all, so it’s hard to say whether the wine will get any better with further cellaring. Something of a disappointment and among the least impressive wines in our tasting of 14 different Aligotés. Feels pricey for the quality at 16€. (82 pts.)

  • 2013 Domaine Ponsot Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Clos des Monts Luisants Très Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru (22.7.2021)
    Not only is this a rare white in that it is a white 1er Cru Burgundy from Côte des Nuits, known for their red wines, but especially because it is the sole 1er Cru Burgundy made entirely of Aligoté, planted in 1er Cru Monts Luisants in 1911 - that means all the fruit for this wine came from centenarian vines. MLF is not encouraged and the wine seldom undergoes malo. The wine is aged for two years in old oak barrels. Bottled unfined and without SO2. 12,5% alcohol.

Quite deep and concentrated yellow-green color. Very bold, concentrated and rather buttery nose with a strong streak of diacetyl, evident in the aromas of butterscotch and melting butter, followed by layered nuances of lemon marmalade, some floral notes of white flowers, a little bit of stony minerality, light creamy notes of oak, a hint of fresh appley fruit and a touch of savory old wood. The wine is full-bodied, concentrated and quite weighty on the palate, yet surprisingly fresh and lively at the same time. Intense and quite crisp flavors of lemony citrus fruits and tangy salinity, some buttery notes of diacetyl, a little bit of developed nuttiness, light nuances of bruised apple, a mushroomy hint of earth and a creamy touch of panna cotta. The high acidity makes the wine feel very precise and structured. The finish is crisp, long and toasty with complex flavors of tart green apples, some creamy notes of oak, a little bit of buttery diacetyl, light lemony citrus fruit notes, a hint of butterscotch and a touch of something smoky.

An impressively big, weighty and concentrated effort for an Aligoté, showing how this overlooked variety can actually make wines of great distinction if only planted to good terroir! However, even though Clos des Months Luisants normally doesn’t go through MLF, I strongly feel this vintage has seen malo, based on the strong diacetyl notes lending a distinctively rich, almost sweet buttery and creamy notes to the aroma and taste of the wine. The difference was huge compared to the vintages 2007 and 2006 that were tasted alongside - and which didn’t show any diacetyl character. Although these diacetyl notes blend with the other flavors quite well, I feel they are still so strong they distract a little from the pleasure and the wine would’ve been even better without them. Nevertheless, this is an impressive and exceptional Aligoté in every way, and even though starting to show the first signs of development, I have no doubts this wine will continue to improve in a cellar for another decade or two. Not particularly affordable at 97€, but, well, Ponsot rarely is. (92 pts.)

Concentrated and moderately deep greenish-yellow color. Huge, noticeably ripe and honestly quite massive nose with lush aromas of sweet tropical fruits, fresh white peach, some overripe apricot, a little bit of boozy alcohol, light waxy notes, oaky hints of creaminess, exotic spices and savory wood and a touch of pineapple juice. No other wine in our tasting of 14 Aligotés showed such power and ripeness - to me, this reminds me more of an Alsace Grand Cru Pinot Gris than Aligoté! Contrasting the huge nose, the wine is surprisingly crisp, lively and medium-bodied on the palate, although the ripeness is still quite obvious in the high alcohol and slightly oily and viscous mouthfeel full of dry extract. There are concentrated flavors of very ripe yellow fruits and wizened Golden Delicious apple, some creamy notes, a little bit of pineapple, light tart notes of tangy Granny Smith apple, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of savory old oak spice. The bright, high acidity balances the concentrated flavors and oily mouthfeel quite well. The finish is fresh, crisp and remarkably persistent with some alcohol warmth and a very lengthy aftertaste of concentrated tropical fruits, some mineral notes of tangy salinity, a little bit of creamy oak, light stony mineral notes that taper towards extracted bitterness, a hint of pineapple and an evolved touch of browned butter.

A huge powerhouse of Aligoté if there ever was one! The wine is atypically ripe for an Aligoté, showing more concentrated fruit I’ve ever seen in the variety with so boozy alcohol that makes me feel that the 14% in the label might be an understatement. Despite its massive size, the wine carries itself surprisingly well, coming across as much lighter and more delicate on the palate than I ever expected from the nose, while at the same time showing very good acidity that manages to keep the wine in balance pretty well. Nevertheless, this wine is as atypical for an Aligoté as Clos des Months Luisants is for a 1er Cru Burgundy. Although an impressive wine in its own right, this was my least favorite in our mini-vertical of three Clos des Monts Luisants (2013, 2007, 2006) - the excessively ripe character is a bit too much for me. While the wine might not only keep, but improve over many more years in a cellar, I’m quite convinced the wine won’t pick up any elegance as it ages, no matter how long one is going to age it. Overall the wine feels too pricey for the quality at 90€. (90 pts.)

Pale and very slightly hazy golden yellow color. Not that big or bold but very nuanced and seductive nose with complex aromas of gunpowder smoke, some developed notes of browned butter and bruised apple, a little bit of ripe and zesty citrus fruits, light mineral notes of chalk dust, a hint of dried herbs and a touch of nuttiness. The wine is evolved, slightly concentrated and medium-to-moderately full-bodied on the palate with complex flavors of lemon marmalade, some developed notes of browned butter, light smoky tones, a little bit of ripe nectarine, mature hints of caramel, toffee and subtly oxidative nuttiness and a touch of bruised apple. The high acidity lends great intensity, freshness and sense of structure to the wine. The finish is crisp, fresh and zippy with complex, tertiary flavors of tart green apples, tangy salinity, some evolved notes of browned butter and bruised apple, light savory nuances of old wood spice, a little bit of caramel, a hint of smoke and a touch of roasted nuts.

A beautiful, very complex and remarkably harmonious Aligoté that feels like it is getting close to its peak or plateau of maturity. Contrasting the other two vintages (2013, 2007) in our mini-vertical, this felt noticeably more mature than the other two, but it didn’t show any buttery diacetyl notes like the 2013, nor was it excessively ripe and extracted like the 2007. This was just simply beautiful, coming across as more like an excellent white Burgundy than any other wine in our tasting of 14 Aligotés. Outstanding depth, harmony and complexity here. Practically the unanimous wine of the evening for all the attendees. Probably is not going to develop that much from here, but will keep for years more. Not particularly affordable at 79€, but manages to deliver for the price. (95 pts.)

  • 2016 Familia Nin-Ortiz Penedès Terra Vermella de Nin - Spain, Catalunya, Penedès (22.7.2021)
    100% Parellada Montónega, the pink-skinned mutation of Parellada, from a 35-yo vineyard. Fermented spontaneously and aged for 8 months in an old, neutral 225-liter barrique. 12,5% alcohol. Total production 1998 bottles. Tasted blind.

Youthful, medium-deep lime-green color. Character, somewhat fragrant and quite smoky nose with aromas of sappy green herbs, reductive flint smoke, some crushed nettle leaves, a little bit of Granny Smith apple, light zesty notes of key lime, a hint of creaminess and a touch of very fresh - almost unripe and vegetal - white fruit. The wine is lively, fresh and crunchy on the palate with a medium body and somewhat restrained flavors of tart green apple, reductive gunpowder smoke, some crushed nettle leaves, light vegetal notes of herbal greenness, a little bit of tangy salinity, a hint of quinine bitterness and a touch of something gaseous and slightly acrid - perhaps a bit of SO2? Good, racy acidity. The finish is fresh and lively with crunchy flavors of flint smoke, some stony minerality, a little bit of crushed nettle leaves, light zesty citrus fruit notes of lemon and key lime, a herbal hint of grassy greenness and a sweeter touch of golden apples.

A crisp, fresh and characterful white with good sense of freshness and purity, but coming across as a bit too reductive. If opened now, I heartily recommend to let the wine breathe for many hours, just to blow the smoky reduction off. However, as the wine feels very racy, high-strung and full of potential, I’d let the wine age for at least another two-three years, preferably even longer. Trying to guess correctly what this wine was was practically impossible - the guesses began with Romorantin and Jura whites, going to Alpine whites, then Hungary. To volcanic islands (Santorini, Etna, Canary islands) and Portugal. The closest guess was Viura from Rioja. Nobody thought of Penedès or Parellada at any point! For current enjoyment the wine is wonderfully fresh, bright and crunchy, but I’m sure it will unwind a little and show more depth and complexity if left to age a bit longer. Nice stuff - albeit a bit pricey for the quality at 37,80€. (89 pts.)

  • 2016 Terroir Al Limit Soc. Lda. Priorat Torroja Vi de la Vila - Spain, Catalunya, Priorat (22.7.2021)
    Labeled “Vi de Vila”, aka. “village wine” as the wine is a blend of Carignan (50%) and Grenache (50%) from 25-40 yo vineyards around Torroja del Priorat. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts, macerated for 10 days with the skins and stems. Aged for 18 months in a Stockinger foudre and used 500-liter demi-muids. Total production 20686 bottles. 13,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.

Deep and dark plummy red color that permits quite little light through. Fascinating, both ripe and still quite earthy and savory nose with aromas of juicy boysenberries and blueberries, tobacco, some leathery funk and horse stables, a little bit of gamey meat, light inky notes, a flatulent hint of skunky reduction and a touch of damp leaves. The wine is dry, slightly wild and somewhat tough on the palate with a medium body and intense, crunchy and quite savory flavors of wizened dark fruits and tart cranberries, wild strawberries, savory notes of game and leather, some ferrous notes of blood, light sweeter nuances of raisins and dried fruits, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of licorice. The overall feel is quite stern and sinewy, thanks to the high acidity and quite ample - even assertive - tannins. The lengthy finish is ripe yet savory with quite pronounced tannic grip and intense flavors of wizened dark fruits, some tart lingonberry notes, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light stony mineral nuances, hints of tobacco and leathery funk and a touch of juicy red fruits.

A wonderfully stern, savory and positively tough Priorat that is a far cry from those massively big, voluptuous and high-alcohol fruit bombs the region is known for. My first guess was a traditionalist Bandol, due to the wine’s savory, leathery and gamey overall taste and firm tannins, after which I guessed more natural Portugal, perhaps from Dão. My third guess was Priorat, as I remembered how Terroir Al Límit makes Priorat wines nobody ever thinks that they come from Priorat - that’s some reverse psychology there. Other attendees guessed, among other places, Burgundy - while I never thought the wine could be a Pinot Noir, I did agree that the wine is surprisingly Burgundian in style, especially for a Priorat. Not a polished, pure and fresh Burgundy, mind you, but a traditional, rustic red Burgundy that is quite rough around the edges. That’s the style we’re talking about. I can imagine this style of wine is not for everyone - it is very stern, structure-driven and quite unapologetic in its lack of emphasis on fruit - but if you prefer depth, character and structure over fruit, ripeness and concentration, this might be just up your alley. A fantastic Priorat, easily among my favorites from the region. (93 pts.)

Deep, coppery color with a golden-yellow hue. Evolved and slightly oxidative nose with somewhat sweet-toned aromas of roasted nuts, some dried-fruit notes of sultana raisins and dried cherries, a little bit of maple syrup, light bruised apple tones, a hint of cloudberry jam and a touch of cooked rose hips. The wine is sweetish-to-medium-sweet - i.e. not fully sweet - with evolved flavors of bruised apple and dried dates, some caramel tones, a little bit of oxidative nuttiness, light smoky notes, a hint of pithy grapefruit bitterness and a touch of cherry marmalade. The mouthfeel is a bit sticky, but the bright, high acidity lets the wine retain good sense of freshness. The finish is long, slightly sticky and a bit oxidative with quite persistent, medium-sweet flavors of sultana raisins, some smoky tones, a little bit of nutty rancio, light bitter nuances, a hint of maple syrup and a touch bruised apple.

A nice, balanced and tasty dessert wine at its plateau of maturity. I was expecting the wine to be a fully sweet dessert wine, but it turned out to be slightly - not much - less sweet than anticipated. I suspect this might be a combination of the wine being actually less sweet (sweeter end of medium sweet rather than fully sweet) and the effect of aging on the sweetness - many dessert wines seem to lose the impression of sweetness as they age, even though the residual sugar content stays unchanged. All in all, a enjoyable little sticky. Probably better with cheeses and savory desserts rather than with sweeter desserts that really call for a sweeter wine. Good value at approx. 15€/bottle. (90 pts.)

Posted from CellarTracker

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The best aligotés I’ve had are:

  • Domaine Dureuil-Janthial
  • A.P. de Villaine Bouzeron
  • Henri Germain

Im a big fan of Aligotes that I’ve had. my favorite is Chantereves version! these are nice notes, I had no idea some of these producers made Aligote.

Les Horées = not bad.

Thanks for the detailed notes Otto.
Agree those Terroir Al Limit’s are very good.

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Chanterêves is among my faves as well, I had a TN on that one in my previous Aligoté tasting report. Superb stuff.

Welcome to the WB! Fortunately I have a bottle of Villaine Bouzeron still waiting in my cellar.

Thanks for the notes.

Thanks for the notes.
I’m a big fan of A.P. de Villaine Bouzeron as well. I can also recommend PYCMs Aligote, which is probably my favorite aligote!

Has anybody tried Jérôme Galeyrand’s Aligoté? I have a tasting of his wines with the vigneron tentatively planned for March and the importer raves about his Aligoté.