2018 Vollenweider Wolfer Goldgrube Aurum
I have been beating the drum over the past 3-5 years about the improvement of dry wine in the Mosel. Several years ago I was not a big fan of dry wine in the Mosel (excluding Ruwer and Saar). Now there are many examples of great dry Mosel wine AJ Adam, Clemens Busch, Immich-Batterieberg, Martin Mullen, Weiser-Kunstler, Ulli Stein, I could go on and on but the one that really was a mind-blowing eye opener for me was made by Daniel Vollenweider a winemaker known for sweet wine and someone who after tasting an early 90s Egon Müller sweet wine moved from Switzerland to the Mosel and bought a stunning property and became a winemaker. The wine was the 2018 Aurum. I know it is a very small production somewhere around 300-400 bottles and it is not made every year. I vividly remember tasting at the winery. I even tracked some down in London while waiting for the small amount that came to the U.S.
Well its been a few years since that first tasting and I decided to open one. The wine was everything I remember. Tons of depth, texture and extract. Extremely ripe but yet so precise and focused. Crystal clear clarity of flavors and in no way is the ripeness over the line. Slate, minerality and saline. Amongst the finest dry German wines I have ever had.
