TNs—Mike on Tour—May 1, dinner with Count and Friends, Gobillard, many Rieslings, Michel Grenouilles, Cornas, others

Two of the people I have missed the most during this long absence have been Mike and Sveta Lipyanskiy. They remain their generous and loving selves as they welcomed me back for the beginning of my 4-day stay here. What has changed is their son Zach who has grown like a beanstalk in my absence. We were joined at dinner by Fernando Losada, Rob Hanault and their friend Cliff—it was fantastic to see them all again—and also joined by their delightful friends Dylan and Sasha. Sveta cooked delicious lamb with potato wedges and greens. Around this soul food we had these:

Bruno Gobillard Brut

Disgorged in 2012. Quite interesting with gingerbread, binned apple and Apple strudel in play. Very brisk and coiled—tingles through the whole mouth. I like the drive here

1979 Sanctus Jacobus Serriger Schloss Saarfelser Schlossberg Ries Spatlese

Moving past the tongue-twisting name, this was no sacramental wine! Musty tinge to the nose with citrusy fruit, this is light on its feet and has a thread of bitter aligned with apple and perhaps a small dab of pear. Held up on a sort of simplified elegance through the night

2017 Max Ferdinand Richter Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr GG Ries

Nuzzie gets jasmine blossoms and other definite florals. Lots of life here—apple, grapefruit and a bit of crisp white grape. Bit of spritz. Plenty to like here, and I don’t normally go for the GG style

2019 Schafer-Frohlich Felseneck Ries Spat

Mike is right in that this is painfully young, but I am a huge fan all the same. Whispers of pink grapefruit and lilac on a semi-shy bouquet. Nothing shy about the palate which blazes across the palate with fresh and sweet apple and grape. How far I’ve come in that I used to hate this expression and now I love it. #3

2019 Louis Michel Chablis Grenouilles

The quality level in terms of depth and crystal clarity of the wine mirrors the astounding 2017. This is not quite that cuvée in terms of class and irresistibility, being rounder but also unfinished—however, I’d be surprised if it didn’t improve with time in bottle and this is already very good Chablis. My #4, glad I bought this to try

2018 Amoritti Cerasuolo D’Abruzzo

Mike poured us this unique rose adjacent to Pepe, who served as mentor to the winemaker here. Strawberry, crabapple and, no kidding, amaretto/almond scents. In the mouth, very savoury, with herbs and raspberry aplenty and a ton of mouthfeel activity…I haven’t had one aged enough yet, but I could imagine an older Tondonia Rosado presenting like this. #2 tonight

2017 Guillaume Gilles Cornas

Rob opened this yesterday which was a wise choice for this underrated producer. Wow. I mean wow. Supercharged coffee, meats and dark cherry aromatics. Fabulous wine. So much beautiful energy, full plum and cherry with baking spices and cocoa in reserve. 91, I am a fan. WOTN and I think it was unanimous

2007 Mas de Boislauzon CdP

Spices to the fore in the sniffer, clear red fruit and a bit of chocolate. To taste, a bit of heat and disjointedness at the back, and we all comment on the ripe fruits. Missing drive and…well…it *is * Grenache and I’m not fond of the grape

2007 Craggy Range Le Sol Syrah

I’ve had a few of the Pinots but never their Syrah. There is a touch of motor oil and high-toned red fruit with maybe a baked caramel edge. This is still a very sturdy wine on the palate with red plum, black cherry and some black tea. A little rambunctious for me, but I’d be keen to try again in 5-7 years

A great night to be with old friends and make new ones