TNs: Chambolle 1er dinner and some other wines

CHAMBOLLE 1ER DINNER - (10/5/2022)

Chambolle 1er theme with some other wines dropped in. Very strong showings but the WOTN was quite clearly the Groffier.

  • 2002 Dom Pérignon Champagne - France, Champagne
    Very pale and youthful colour, none of that reductiveness in young Doms on the nose. Some honey notes that hinted at its age but otherwise this was still remarkably fresh. Lots of lemon fruit and when warm it was similar in profile to an aged white Burg. In a fine place at the moment. (94 pts.)
  • 2014 Domaine Pattes Loup Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
    Someone mentioned it was a little advanced and I could see why, a little more developed than my bottle two years ago / the 2012 drank at the start of this year, as the ripe fruit showed signs of losing acidity and gaining more sweetness. Still pleasurable but drink up. (91 pts.)
  • 2012 Paul Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Romanée - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
    Unbelievably reductive and tight for a 2012, I thought that this was a 2017/18 as it was remarkably pale in colour without much development. Not very expressive and think this was shutdown as the purity and minerality of the wine suggested that this was a wine of high quality.
  • 2010 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Vide Bourse - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
    Such an incredibly strong oak signature that that I guessed new-world, and this didn’t have the reductive notes I expected from this producer. Might have been a provenance issue as the palate was rather advanced and soft for PYCM, the retailer that this was bought from can be hit-and-miss.
  • 2016 Kumeu River Chardonnay Maté’s Vineyard - New Zealand, North Island, Auckland, Kumeu
    Others liked this a lot more than I did and they thought it to be quite Burg-like. I was actually struggling to place this in Burgundy and it made sense when revealed as I have never liked this producer’s wines much. Ripe fruit bordering on tropical and oak use that was quite protrusive, but puzzlingly still rather green on the palate. (88 pts.)


  • 2011 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
    Bottle was opened 6 hours prior by the person who brought it. No greenness at all but showed a little rusticity with its earthy nose. Became more elegant and less and shed some of its awkwardness with time in the glass, but the tannins might need further aging to resolve. (91 pts.)
  • 2013 Domaine Amiot-Servelle Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
    More lightly extracted than the other two wines from this flight with more oak on the nose, so I guessed this to be a maker that was transitioning to a newer style but apparently this was before the style change at this domaine. Rather primary still with plenty of red cherry fruit, the concentration of Amoureuses was very much present, just in a less obvious fashion than the Groffier. Most Chambolle of Chambolles tonight. My second of the night. (94 pts.)
  • 2010 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
    My contribution, popped and poured. Lovely purity to the fruit that makes 2010 my favourite vintage in recent times, and made the wine seem younger than it actually was. The balance of the vintage helped to make this wine a lot more approachable than it normally would be I think, and it showed a lot more red fruits compared to the darker-fruited 2003 and 2011. My third favourite of the night. (94 pts.)


  • 2002 Domaine Robert Groffier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
    Very seductive and opulent nose that just lingered on forever, best aromatics by far out of all the wines. Palate was quite earthy and powerful which reminded me of Gevrey rather than Chambolle. It had cool blue fruits at the forefront rather than red which made me guess 2000/01 instead of 02 but someone managed to nail the vintage correctly. Winemaking from a different era, this would have been a bruiser in its youth I suspect, but it is seamlessly integrated now. Fantastic. (96 pts.)
  • 2010 Méo-Camuzet Frère et Sœurs Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Feusselottes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
    Lots of spice that reminded me of a Vosne, with quite a bit of acid on the finish that made me guess 2008. This was still quite brooding and not showing much compared to the Vogüé from the same vintage as the palate was all structure at the moment. (91 pts.)
  • 2003 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
    Bottle was opened 6 hours prior by the person who brought it. Obvious alcohol that stuck out sorely and made the nose almost port-like, while the palate had plenty of structure and unresolved tannins that made me guess 2005. This was weaker than the 2011 for me and I don’t think that this wine will ever come into balance. (88 pts.)

DINNER AT KOLABO - (9/5/2022)

  • NV Domaine Belluard Vin de Savoie Ayse Les Perles du Mont Blanc - France, Savoie, Vin de Savoie Ayse
    100% Gringet sparkling. Slightly unpleasant milky nose to begin with but that dissipated with time. Quite ripe but sharp in terms of acid on the back end at the same time, this was the best pairing for sushi unsurprisingly out of the wines tonight. (89 pts.)
  • 2015 Benoit Courault Les Guinechiens - France, Vin de France
    Deep golden colour, rather muted at first but opened up very nicely. A strong honey note with some melon, but without much complexity or depth. I wonder if this was better in its youth with more vivacity. (89 pts.)
  • 2019 Domaine des Croix Beaune - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune
    New-school Burgundy style of pretty red fruits and a noticeable amount of VA on the nose. Palate is juicy and easy-going, someone commented that this drank like a Bojo which was pretty much spot on. No excessive warmth from the vintage. (90 pts.)
  • 2017 Domaine Jacques Carillon Puligny-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet
    A reductive nose with plenty of gunpowder notes that never quite blew off even with time. Palate was very tight as well, not much fruit showing at the moment. Probably best to leave this in the cellar for a while as it is rather skinny now. Not the best pairing with sushi and further cements my opinion that white Burgs aren’t meant for sushi. (88 pts.)

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Really appreciate the de Vogüe notes. I have multiple vintages of the Chambolle 1er Cru, and never really know when to open them.

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on PYCM 2010: for one or the other reason I only had 1 really excellent 2010 from him (caillerets and only one of the 2 bottles Caillerets I had). I have no idea why but both his 2009 and 2011 are better IMO with the 2010’s lacking the tension and precision I typically find in his wines.

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I bought several bottles of the village ‘03 Vogüé, having been told — incorrectly it seems — that was the last year all the declassified ‘grand vin’ went into it. I opened a bottle recently and thought it very fine. My problem with Vogüé has been of old Faiveley proportions, and it seemed to me that the ripeness of the year had moved the wine into the right place sooner without making it in the least jammy. Don’t remember the high alcohol issue. I’m drinking another bottle this weekend, and will report if there’s anything interesting to say.

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My memory was faulty. The Vogüé village wine I bought was the 1993 and not the 2003, which may in fact be the last year the wine was de-classified Musigny. It was really splendid last night. If you ever come across it don’t scorn the lowly label.

I don’t think that is correct. There was a lengthy podcast where the team from deVogüe poured the Chambolle 1er Cru for the World of Pinot Noir in maybe 2007, and they spoke of it as younger vines Musigny. Don’t recall the vintages they poured, but they certainly included wines from the 2000s.

Thanks for these excellent Chambolle notes. Chambolle is the Burg with the most space in my cellar, and its nice to see a lineup that includes some of the grand cru big boys and girls alongside 1ers.

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