TN- Cayuse Viognier, Latour, '74 Simi, Brundlmayer

I picked up a bottle of 1964 Latour a few months ago. It looked like it was beat to hell, but the price wasn’t high, so I figured I’d take a flyer. Another WBer and I had a dinner with the plan of trying it together since neither of us had ever tried a First Growth. Here are notes from that night:

2017 Cayuse Viognier Cailloux Vineyard (generously donated)
Medium yellow in color. The nose is very perfumed, sweet florals are at the front, mostly honeysuckle, with some yellow peach underneath. Its less dense, less viscous, and has higher acidity than a typical Condrieu. Not sure if there is significant residual sugar here, but there is definitely a perception of some sweetness to the peaches, pineapple, and jackfruit fruit. There is also an aromatic component (orange blossom water?) that is very pleasant. The finish has a distinct and pleasant bitterness that reminds me of citrus pith. The finish is long and complex. Very nice wine.


1964 Latour
My local wine shop has a basement full of old vintages that they’ll bring out from time to time, especially during the holidays. The bottles, I was told, were bought on release, and are in various states of preservation. I picked this up during Christmas 2021 and it has been sitting in my cellar for the past few months. Honestly, it looks like it’s been through hell. The fill was low shoulder, capsule corroded, and the cork was covered in mold. The label promptly fell off after removing it from my wine fridge.

Top half of the cork could have been made out of mud it was so soft. Bottom half was wet but reasonably intact. The wine was unfortunately at death’s door. The best descriptor that I can muster is “not totally undrinkable”. But that’s the most complimentary thing I can say about it. Almost completely maderized, WAY over the hill. Tastes like it probably experienced high temps in the past. It’s possible to taste some underlying fruit, and it’s painful to think how nice this bottle probably was 20 years ago. Oh well.

It did make a nice pan sauce for some steak…


Simi: 1974 Simi Cabernet Sauvignon Special Reserve Alexander Valley (the backup since the Latour was such a stinker)
A fantastic bottle with an amazing cork- soaked less than a centimeter and the rest completely intact. Nose is initially a bit shy, coming around with some air to emphasize mostly tertiary components; GRAPHITE, leather, saddle soap, damp earth. Very little fruit left.

Body and flavor intensity is initially a bit thin, but it does fill out somewhat with air. Tannins are mostly resolved. The fruit is nearly gone, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t have a lot to offer. The remaining fruit is mostly tart cranberry. More prominent are complex flavors of leather, cigar, soil, decaying leaves, and some mint on the finish.


1998 Weingut Willi Bründlmayer Riesling Beerenauslese Zöbinger Heiligenstein
Wow- this is where it’s at. Rich amber color. So floral on the nose- honeysuckle, lemon drops, caramel, dried apricots, rose petals, honey, maple sugar candy, bee pollen, pencil eraser. This is a weird note- but there is the smell when you refill a butane lighter. The list could go on and on.

The palate is definitely sweet, but not cloying. There is fresh acidity, and the wine feels light and lively despite the high sugar levels. The flavors are all mixed flowers and candied citrus. I’m immediately reminded of biting off the back of honeysuckle blossoms as a kid during the summer and sipping the nectar right out the back of the flower drop by drop. The finish is very long- each sip leaves a pleasant aftertaste like I somehow swallowed a bunch of wildflowers. This is good stuff; drink it now or a long time from now. A true Vin de Meditation.