I’ve been seeing some opportunities here and abroad to backfill on some VDP German auction wines, with my focus currently being wedding vintage (2015) wines. Despite how much riesling I drink, the only auction bottlings I’ve had have been 2001 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Spatlese, 2005 Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Spatlese and Auslese, and 2001 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Spatlese, all which I loved and thought stood above the quality of a regular bottling in their respective pradikat.
For those who have more auction bottle experience than me, which producers make auction wines so superb that are really worth the extra tariff? What are some of your favorites that consistently deliver?
I like to cherry pick a bit based on tasting there but also have some consistent favorites. Schloß Lieser Doctor Spätlese and Domprobst Kabinett, as well as Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese are a firm buy for me every auction so far.
In terms of 2015: Erben von Beulwitz had a really excellent Kaseler Nies‘chen auslese 2015 at the Bernkasteler Ring auction last year for a very modest price. In general I find their wines really good, but understand they are difficult to source in the US.
I agree with Arjan on the doctor spatlese. That one is can’t miss for me. I also like the LGK from Schloss Lieser, particularly when it comes from Wehlener. He makes a lot of wine so you have to find a way to focus on something, and that something doesn’t have to be the auction wines. But the auction wines are truly special.
Zilliken typically brings wines to auction that are a level or two above their stated pradikat. If you buy expecting the wine to correspond to the label you might be disappointed, but on a relative basis they are actually good values. Think of it as an LGK that is labelled as a spatlese and sells for the price of an auslese…
I always find the Le Gallais spatlese to be really great when offered. I don’t drink much of the non-auction le gallais wines so I can’t compare it to those.
The Prum wines at auction are generally spectacular. I could see one quibbling over whether the spatlese or auslese is worth the extra money compared to the regular version, but that discussion becomes irrelevant when you are talking about the LGK or TBA since there is no corollary.
Von Schubert’s auction kabi is a step up for me over the non-auction version as at least in recent years I think the auction version has shown leaner and more on-pradikat.
Peter Lauer’s pradikat auction wines are fabulous and well-priced. I thought the 2017 Lauer LGK was better than the Egon version and every year I try them and wonder why they don’t sell for more. I wouldn’t pay a huge a premium for a GG in a magnum at auction that is the same as the regular version. I’d rather have 4 bottles.
Willi Schaeffer’s wines are so good regardless that I tend not to feel bad if I miss something at auction, although I certainly bid on them every year.
The Von Hovel auction wines have fallen off a cliff in my view.
Egon Müller - Scharzhofberger Kabinett (but expensive)
the Schloss Lieser Bernkasteler Doctor Spätlese already mentioned (which, if I am not mistaken, is often or even always only offered at auction)
Joh. Jos. Prüm - Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese (I like the WeSo Spätlese as well, but the Auslese is usually the best auction offering at Prüm)
Willi Schaefer Domprobst Spätlese (this has also gotten expensive in the last years, but it’s a super reliable auction bottling)
St. Urbanshof Ockfener Bockstein “Zickelgarten” (from a special parcel with old vines)
Reinhold Haart Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Auslese LGK (usually the best value botrytis Auslese at auction and the wine style, in which Haart shows his best talent)
Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Auslese LGK (also Fritz Haag is a specialist for long gold cap botrytis Auslesen)
Le Gallais Wilinger Braune Kupp Spätlese (the value wine if you want Egon Müller and usually a clear step up from the non-auction Spätlese, but always made in Auslese style)
Thanisch Erben Thanisch Bernkasteler Doctor Spätlese (usually difficult to taste at the auction itself because they don’t care about how well or not it presents at the auction itself - these are wines for the very very long haul, but waiting pays off)
Maximin Grünhaus Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Kabinett (only offered since the 2015 vintage as Grünhaus was not in the VDP before, but this has become a classic since it was offered)
Egon Müller Kabinett and Emrich-Schonleber Auf der Lay are must buys every year. Part of the reason is that they are so singular and only available as auction wines.
For value I like the Clemens Busch and Lauer offerings. I think the latter will change going forward.
Doctor Spätlese is auction only indeed. They did a Doctor Kabi in 2018 that was available outside the auction and Thomas told me they did one in 2021 as well, as it is such a great Kabinett year. Having just returned from Germany tasting the entire non auction 2021 Schloss Lieser collection, this will be something to look forward to. The Goldtröpfchen, Wehlener Sonneruhr and Niederberg Helden Kabis were amazing.
In terms of tasting at the auction, what surprises me every year is how little care some producers take in showing their wine to some of the most passionate Riesling fans around. I tend to be there early and very often see producers rushing in last minute, quickly popping the cork on their wines. Frequently, they are also served waaaaaay too cold.
I think a better question for you is which are the most consistently good.
No surprise for me, the best producers generally, generally make the most consistent auction wines.
So whilst there are some producers who I think make great auction wines occasionally. They are best avoided if inconsistent.
Then the question is which wines to focus on from those producers. And being a bit of a peculiar nature I would suggest you focus on the wines not made frequently.
So in short. Everything you need to know is written above. But you should also ignore some of it.
I might have to revisit the Schloss Lieser wines. I have some 2015s and 2016s but haven’t bought since because they were a bit bigger in body and ripeness for my palate.
I think “bigger” is a fair critique of the S-L pradikat wines, but I don’t think you would feel that way about the doctor which shows more herbal/earthy than any other Riesling I’ve had from Mosel and is definitely worth a go if you see it.
