2016 Sandlands Mataro Contra Costa County. Youthful ruby-violet, on the dark side and clear, shines well in the glass. The nose has a fluffy texture to it, like cotton balls, dense currant, cherry, plum fruit scents, only vaguely floral, in a meadow breeze way, relies on the power of the fruit for effect, has shed the elements I found distracting on release. Full-bodied, shows good smoothness for its weight and manages the drying tannin well so the latter doesn’t become a drag. Here you get blueberry, blackberry to cherry fruit, lighter and brighter. Accents of naval orange and lavender. Not especially earthy, more like sandy. There’s something a little “standoffish” about it, something I find in many Mourvèdre wines. That said, I like it a lot and easy to consume.
2019 Halcón Syrah Yorkville Highlands “Elevación.” Trim and transparent, the core just achieves a purple hue whereas it’s mostly a young clay to brick red, nothing visually “saturated” about it. Nose is fully on point, dishing out beef jerky, violets, white grapefruit, green olives and wiry red currant, plum fruit scents, more focused than broadly perfumed, no wasted motion. Light-bodied, the tannin to me is too dominant at the moment and doesn’t let things flow with ease. No to minimal trace of oak. Pronounced florality. The gaminess plays second fiddle. The tautness tends to shorten the fruit through the finish. More brightness than richness. Could be that I sat on this a little too long and it’s now going to sleep. Didn’t change much with air time. (Composite Cork)
1999 Ridge Sonoma County “Geyserville.” Reddish purple core, looks a little muddied, bright rust red rims, looks its age. Cedar and incense dominated nose, ginger, vanilla root, lavender, has that “spicebox” thing going on, the fruit scents running plummy, some cassis, cherry liqueur. Medium-bodied, has clearly lost weight and does hollow out some in the mid-palate. The oak is mildly toasty, more matured in feel. Sort of celery note to it. Very close to the nose, more leathery. Definite prune edge to the fruit, flavorful but not fresh. Overall, finding any tannin resolved and offering whatever tertiary elements it was capable of. Kudos to the fruit for holding on. Allowing for oak tolerance, peak was probably 5-6 years ago. 68% Zinfandel, 16% Carignane, 16% Petite Sirah.
2020 Metrick Mencía Santa Maria Valley Riverbench Vineyard. In spite of a shiny surface, the violet to ruby coloration falls flat, albeit with a good bit of saturation. Rough and ready nose of sandy dirt, stone shards to taut cherry, blackberry fruit scents, citrus peel, curious lack of persistent aromas. Medium-bodied, big pickled, briny dimension to it, sour as get-all from the first sip. This can impair enjoying the ripeness of the black fruits. More citrus, twigs, and stone, you expect tumbleweed to drift across your palate. The fruit draws you in and then the sourness hammers you. Hard to say, will a few years of bottle age calm down the latter? If I had another bottle I wouldn’t open it for 2-3 years. (Composite Cork: Diam10)
2017 Sandlands Contra Costa County “Red Table Wine.” Youthful ruby-violet of solid darkness as well as clarity, would easily guess that it was bottled last week. While not “fruity” the nose is fruit-dominated, cranberry, blueberry, blackberry scents then a dusty, sandy earthiness, suggestion of black licorice, dried citrus pulp, sometimes getting Indian spices. Medium-bodied, firm with a strong tannic skeleton that is just now showing any signs of softening. There was a buttery element on release that is now resolved. As it opens turns more floral with an airy citrus component. Same basic “berryish” fruit. There is something not quite astringent but kind of dried autumn leaves and twigs. Too arch for casual sipping so needs food, especially something fatty. 65% Carignane, 35% Mataro.
2020 Sandlands Lodi “Red Table Wine.” Perfectly transparent violet to ruby-magenta, nice sparkly appearance. Penetrating nose of cranberry, rhubarb, blueberry fruit, floral mist, touch of sandy, stony dirt, fresh and focused, leaves the nostrils softly tingling. In the mouth it’s just about medium-bodied, on the dry side if not noticeably tannic. As a result, the mixed red and blue fruit only smoothes things through the mid-palate and then things chug to a halt. Citrusy enough to heighten overall sourness. As you’d expect, unvarnished to the point of trumpeting any shortcomings. Were it not for the dryness would be an easy drinker but right now it needs something like barbecue to add richness and fill in the blanks. Equal thirds Cinsault (Bechthold Vineyard, 1886), Carignane (Spenker Ranch, 1900), Zinfandel (Kirschenmann Vineyard, 1915).
2015 Sandlands Trousseau Sonoma Coast. Crystal clear rose red with a touch of zinc at the rims, looks more naturally washed out than anything caused by age. Bracing nose, kind of briny, sour lemons, sauna stones, poor dirt, still plenty of ripeness in the strawberry, raspberry fruit scents, like the high level of activity and swirl. Medium-bodied, even with the texture of jelly it comes off as pretty tannic. Same credible level of fruit ripeness here, seems to be heading into “Jolly Rancher” type of sweetness. Good mix of lemon and naval orange citrus with tea leaf. That brininess minimized. In turn, the stony earthiness muted. Don’t think it’s in a dumb phase or the like, just kind of lost clarity in its racing lines. Didn’t have any problem draining the bottle.
2000 Lagier Meredith Syrah Mount Veeder. Blackish purple with good clarity, wide dark brick red rims, looks fully matured. The nose is flat and somewhat medicinal, twigs and fallen leaves, the plum, currant fruit scents blockish, not close to most recent bottle January 2021 in terms of array of aromas and persistence. In the mouth it’s full-bodied with a little more “give,” the fruit plush enough to provide cushion. A citrus element adds some tang but also contributes to an overall bitterness. Sort of woody as well. So, generally speaking, not digging this bottle and feeling more like it’s given what it’s got rather than still evolving.
2015 Domaine du Closel (Château des Vaults) Savennières “La Jalousie.” The gold coloration has deepened appreciably in just roughly four years, albeit not close to amber, still possesses a pleasing shine. Powerful nose of sea salt, saline, white smoke to ferrous notes, countervailing orange citrus mist and florality, the fruit mainly basic peach to apricot, hint of pineapple but no tropical bite. Medium-bodied, the acidity more burly than fine, sufficient to give it shape. Here there’s more of a tropical tang and the fruit level is great. Slight yeastiness beginning to build. Zesty orange to lemon citrus. Gently honeyed, lost some seashell, stone nuances. More floral as it warms. Has unclenched some from release and given where it seems to be on the aging curve no regrets popping it open now. Quite enjoyable. (Composite Cork: Diam3)
2007 Domaine du Mas Blanc (Dr. Parcé) Languedoc/Roussillon Collioure “Cosprons Levants.” The core does a good job of staying purple rather than black, rims, however, a dark crimson to rust red, The nose finds the fruit drying out/concentrating into dried fruit, plum, cassis, black cherry, a good bit of what I’d consider “garrigues” along with grill smoke and damp leather, touch of dark chocolate, fully matured and not that funky. In the mouth it’s light to medium-bodied, you feel a dry tannic residue which impedes palate smoothness. The fruit is there, just doing the slow fade to black as in the nose. Here it’s a lavender to licorice lift which gets my attention. Cedar, stony earth, not as smoky. Develops a citrus zest through the finish. Probably was at its best 4-5 years ago but thankfully on a long plateau. Mostly Syrah, remainder Mourvèdre, Counoise.
1998 Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts. Maturing color but to me nothing near its true age, dusky purple core, brick to rose red rims, can’t imagine it looked all that different young. Pronounced leatheriness and smokiness to the nose, spices and incense, violets, the intensity of the aforementioned makes it difficult to get at the red fruit scents yet they don’t come off as absent or faded. Full-bodied, the burly tannin remains quite assertive, however, softened just enough to allow for flow, doesn’t grind to a halt. The florality seems semi-mentholated, gives it some lift whereas that leather and brown earthiness wants to anchor it down. The cherry, blackberry, red currant fruit flavorful, if chunky, not especially suave. Wouldn’t consider this a cerebral wine, definitely has the stuffing for heartier fare and would be somewhat of a waste consumed for casual sipping.
2007 Domaine du Vissoux Brouilly “Pierreux.” The core is now more of a dark rust red than purple, thus hard to notice the bricking at the rims but there’s a touch of orange for the sake of diversity. In the nose the core of maraschino cherry to raspberry is substantial, however, the first impression made is smokiness and earthiness, fairly rugged profile, the white grapefruit zest favors rusticity, muscular staying power. Medium-bodied, powerful tannic backbone immediately increases palate presence. Tangy through and through, close to roasted feel in the red fruit array. Cedar, brine, tea leaf, chewy drinking experience. Has definitely shed the bubbly fruitiness of youth without seeming dried out. But, to be fair, the resonant savoriness is part of why you age a bottle like this anyway. In spite of the brawny structure I would not be tempted to push it much further on down the road.
2019 Alain Graillot Crozes Hermitage. Inky purple color, heavy garnet red rims, looks like it would glow in the dark. Nose is fairly inexpressive, solid dose of darker plum, currant to blackberry fruit, light hint of roasted cocoa, same level of florality, nothing here is singing out “Syrah!” to me. Medium to full-bodied, the fruit layers itself thickly on the tongue. There is an astringency to it which may have something to do with immature phenolics. No noticeable oak. Suggestion of leather or gristle and that’s it. Tends to end abruptly. Wasn’t an unpleasant drinking experience but not in keeping with experience with the producer through the years. Got bored sipping it.
2019 Château Pontey Médoc. Deeply vibrant purple core with dense crimson red rims, high level of surface shine, looks “serious.” The nose prettied up some by cedar and mint notes, more stony than earthy, muscular currant, plum fruit scents, gets muskier the more it opens, if pressed would consider it “modernist” in style. Medium-bodied, the tannin has a somewhat rough grain to them, noticeable from the start yet not something to destroy the drinking experience. Hint of caramel and sweet tea leaf to go with the cedar, the fruit as expected given the tannin, front loaded. Citrusy and feels acidic at the finish. All said and done, it’s an acceptable sub $20 everyday Bordeaux. Unspecified percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, etc.
2010 López de Heredia Rioja “Viña Bosconia Reserva.” The core is arguably purple but an argument can be made for crimson red, red clay rims with an incipient orange rust cast, fine clarity. Plummy nose, the ripeness immediately evident, sandalwood incense, cedar, celery, old saddle leather, vanilla, the basics all covered, today offers more richness than finesse. Full-bodied, round and velvety mouth feel, really coats the palate. Here too it shows more fleshy brawn than elegance. Tannin a touch coarse, not getting much acidity. Stil, the broad array of flavors makes you want to take that next sip. The fruit will certainly go the distance, just a matter of this being too overfruited for one’s preference. Tangy finish. Even with a decant and some air time it didn’t change the initial impression. 80% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacha, 3% Graciano, 2% Mazuelo.
2018 Pasanau Germans Priorat “Ceps Nous” (100% Garnacha). Clean and transparent as well as with some shine yet doesn’t quite dance in the glass, violet running to a kind of garnet red along the rims. The nose plays off of menthol, juicy mixed berry fruit, floral dew and sweet garden herbs, languid lift, while hard to parse out the elements who cares because it just smells nice. Medium-bodied, if that, the tannin tends to shorten the finish and hints at underripeness. Not surprising given the 15.5% ABV, something had to give if it wasn’t going to end up port. Floral with orange blossom notes. Touch twiggy. Raspberry, blueberry fruit, has some nice sappiness. Conversely, there is a meaty, sort of salami, quality to it. Anise filled finish. I fear that global warming will be especially unkind to regions such as Priorat.