04, 06, 08, 12 Dom Pérignon

• 2004 Dom Pérignon Champagne - France, Champagne
  An excellent Dom, cut from cloth quite similar to the 2008, but without quite the same intensity and drive. This is clearly a white-fruited, high acid vintage, with plenty of acidity, and even though time has likely worn down the rough edges here, there is still quite a lot of that mineral, high-acid structure on display here. A good bottle, but this just doesn’t live up to the massive leap in quality represented by the 2008 and 2012. (93 pts.)
• 2006 Dom Pérignon Champagne - France, Champagne
  Unequivocally the weakest performing of the lineup tonight. This is mature and somewhat amorphous, lacking the acid delineation that the other three vintages (including the 2012) had. The fruit is starting to brown, and there are some pronounced secondary notes here. There’s still some acidity, but this is definitely limper than the older 2004. Nothing about this bottle appears to be in bad condition, and the known provenance doesn’t make me wonder about storage. At least based on this showing, this just wasn’t very good. (88 pts.)
• 2008 Dom Pérignon Champagne - France, Champagne
  First off, I’ve had my fair share of this wine, and this bottle is pretty consistent with my experiences with this wine. It’s a taut, acid-driven edition, with plenty of concentration and intensity; a little more coiled up than ideal for drinking now, but if you give this a little air, this does loosen up some. The nose shows a good hit of reduction, with some almond notes. The fruit isn’t as pronounced now. The palate is where this really shines – the 2008 acidity is spot on and just really exciting. Of the lineup tonight, I think this is the wine that has the most long-haul potential, despite my preference for the effusive 2012. (95 pts.)
• 2012 Dom Pérignon Champagne - France, Champagne
  What the comparison of this with the 2008 boils down to is a stylistic preference question. The 2012 is a generous, exuberant wine, showing a much more intense fruit profile than the linear and intensely acid-driven 2008. For current drinking, I prefer the 2012 (and that was my favourite this evening) for its more exuberant fruit and generous breadth on the palate. A rounder, more complete wine, at least at this point. But for aging and the long haul, I’d put my bets on the 2008. (95 pts.)

Thanks for the notes. I had an 06 about 2.5 years ago and I totally agree with your note. Also agree re: the ‘12. I haven’t had an ‘08, but the fruit at the core of the ‘12 was so dense (and delicious).

very helpful. I need to open a 12.

Thanks for the clear notes. I have stashed away a lot of 08. Sound like I need some 12 for now. Your notes are always so valuable.

Post notes!

Agree with impressions. Love the richness of the 12, but can’t forget how incredible 08 was on release (last I had it, it was pretty closed up). 04 is damn good and 06 has always been downright disappointing.

Curtis,
You read my mind
Warren

Well, I was motivated to check in with 2006 DP. The color is pristine and if anything I find it a bit reductive. If drunk along side the 08 or 2012, it certainly would be outclassed at its current stage of development. But I am optimistic that another 10 years will serve the 06 well. I would rate the 2008 and 2012 97-98 and the 2006 a solid 93 points.

Same here. The '12 is drinking well now, better than my last few bottles of '08, but it has not reached the peaks that the best bottles of '08 have.

You make me jealous with these notes. I have only opened 2 bottles post 2000 vintage and they were both 2004’s. I’m hoping my delayed gratification will pay off some day as I read these wonderful tasting notes. Although, i fear that I will die with cases of wonderful Dom Perignon in my cellar that I never tried.

Nice notes, Adrian. I agree with the 04, 08, 12. Just haven’t had the 06 anytime recently and, based on these notes and how we align on the others, I probably won’t any time soon.

Based on my experience w 2006 (my first bottle was a bad cork), I think there is some form of variation.

You may be right. Looking over my TN’s, I’d disliked every bottle of the ‘06 I had opened until one showed much better in March. Better than previous bottles, but not on par with the 04, ‘08 or ‘12.