JJ Prum - 2020 range tasting from Kabinett to Auslese Goldkapsel

Another year and another wonderful annual release of wines to try from JJ Prum, 2020s this time around.

The overall vintage has a lot to like, it’s more “classic” especially with the 2019s in mind. Lower alcohol and more delicate and restrained, not as explosive and amplified as the 19s and I like to think both styles have their place.

For once I lent more towards the Wehlener Sonnenuhrs, I’m normally on team Graacher Himmelreich but there is something about the restrained vintage and slightly riper vineyard profile of the WS that just works this year.

Highlights were the WS across Kabinett, Spatlese and Auslese with the GH stealing the show at the Auslese Goldkap level for me.

2020 Joh. Jos. Prüm Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett
Pretty nose - white florals, spice and pear with a touch of pineapple tinge to it. Lightly sweet but the edges are rounded off - though it still flows nicely and the fruit remains bright. As usual it seems a little simple next to the GH and WS Kabinett but it’s still very nice. 88/100
2020 Joh. Jos. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett

Restrained on the nose with slate, green apple and grapefruit. Nicely delicate, the acidity is well controlled and cleans up the light sweetness on the way through the palate. Steps up in depth next to the BB, though it is likely going to need some time to be less shy. 90/100

2020 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett

Lovely aromatic lift on this wine with peach, pear, slate and mandarin - draws you into the wine even at this early stage. The palate is a great mix of bright, pure fruit and a line of acidity that brings it all into focus. A standout in the Kabinett flight today. 92/100
2020 Joh. Jos. Prüm Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese

On the nose we’ve got yellow florals and a smoky reductive tone that didn’t budge over the unfortunately short time we had with this wine. The palate shows much openly, with ripe but fresh tropical and stone fruits and a very keen core of acidity to cut through. Nice but either needs a good decant or more time in bottle to show aromatic appeal. 89/100
2020 Joh. Jos. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese

There is a distinct smoky tinge to this wine along with the ZS Spatlese, however there is more shown with slate, pear, apple, lime and white florals. It definitely has a step up in richness on the palate, the acidity is nicely cleansing, though I think might be better in a few years as the youthful sweetness has the edge taken off with time. 90/100
2020 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese

Again, the WS has a lift on the nose that gives it immediate appeal - orange peel, peach, lemon curd, white florals and powdered sugar. The flavour profile on the palate is the same - pure, ripe fruits with good texture and acid driven structure balancing and holding it all together. Clearly a step above in this flight as well. 92/100

2020 Joh. Jos. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese

Very coiled up on the nose - shows some spice and grapefruit with slate and smoke as well. Palate has a similar restraint to it, it feels remarkably delicate for an Auslese with the sweetness sitting underneath the mineral acid which is in control currently. It did start to reveal a bit more character with vigorous swirling but still hiding its charm right now - I’m confident it should come out of its shell with time. 91/100

2020 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese

Starts to delve more into the ripe spectrum here with an expressive nose of apricot, pear, peach, spices and orange peel. There is a clear step change in intensity on the palate with the ripeness of the fruit matched equally by a refined acid line. I really like the mix of the more “classic” restrained vintage, the riper vineyard profile and pradikat, leading to a classy, delicious wine with great presence. 93/100

2020 Joh. Jos. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel

This is the first flight where the GH really steps into the spotlight and it really makes the most of the chance. The aromatics are powerful but distinct and detailed with slate, mango, lemon, pear, smoke and grapefruit - a compelling profile. The palate is in the same vein with amplified fruit richness that is controlled beautifully across the mid palate into the finish by mineral acidity. A wonderful wine now and well into the future. 94/100

2020 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel

Some sulphur to start on the nose but doesn’t dominate the apple, red berries, spice and peaches. The palate gives off the impressive of being quite structure led at this stage but the fruit purity does come through and the acidity lends energy and spark to the wine. Potential is obvious and more time will be well rewarded. 93/100

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