Last week I had the privilege of trying 3 barrels of Ray Walker’s '09 Maison Ilan wines, one from each cuvee. I had just spent the previous 2.5 days tasting recently-bottled '08s and barrels of '09s in both the Cote de Nuits and the Cote de Beaune. So, I had a small preview of what other folks were doing with the '09s, and I could compare those tastes with the Maison Ilan '09s at a similar stage of evolution.
The 3 cuvees are Le Chambertin, Charmes Chambertin and Morey St. Denis 1er cru. All 3 were perfectly balanced, with tons of forward fruit and excellent acidity. The Le Chambertin had the most exotic aromas and deepest flavors of the 3, the Charmes had the most tannin and even though it wasn’t exactly closed, showed the most restraint, and the Morey was the biggest surprise in how great it compared with the grand crus. Not knowing exactly what to expect with Ray’s first efforts in Burgundy, I was more than impressed and I will definitely be a buyer if there are any left. These wines are off to an excellent start–congrats Ray!
Yes, my opinions are biased since Ray is not only a friend, but he has helped me at my San Francisco winery with '07s and '08s, and he worked the entire harvest of '08 at Freeman with Eric, Akiko, John and myself.
By the way, all the vignerons I met with over the past week were very excited about the harvest of '09 and the potential of all the wines they had in barrel–not new news for sure. I had heard about this enthusiasm for many months, but this was the first time I got to try any of the '09s myself. The '08 reds I got to taste were showing very well–could be an underrated vintage, along with '07 and '08 whites which were all impressive.
Thanks Ed! I can’t begin to tell you exactly how cool it is having the person that showed me how to make wine going to taste my wines and approving of them. I am very glad and relieved that you enjoyed them. Thanks again for taking time out to give me the knowledge.
On the Morey Saint Denis, it is a 1er Cru from the Les Chaffots vineyard, just next to Clos St Denis.
Based on what I know of Ray, I am not surprised he is off to a good start, but it is really cool to get a positive firsthand report from someone like Big Ed!
What a great thread. Thanks, Ed. And congrats, Ray.
I’m done with buying Burgundy after 2005, due to “strategic reasons” such as a cellar that is overflowing with great Burgs, and having attained “a certain age”, but I’ve drunk Ed’s pinots and I’m going to ask Ray if he has a few bottles to sell me, buying strategy be damned.
Thanks very much for the post! I was just thinking about Ray and Chris, as they are very close to departing for France. I’ve pre-ordered some wine, and while I have no doubt that they will be good, it’s great to read about them from a knowledgeable taster nonetheless. Can’t think of a young vigneron more deserving of our support…truly “living the dream”! Best of luck to you, Walkers!
Of note, the Morey Saint Denis was the only lot that saw stem inclusion. Moving forward each lot will recieve identical attention in an attempt to place each on the same starting block.
Thanks for asking. Malos are going great. They are still going in order as picked. MSD 1er ‘Les Chaffots’ is closed to finish (per a WB member who just tasted this evening - will check analysis on Monday), Charmes-Chambertin ‘Aux Charmes’ GC is tasting close to finish, and Chambertin GC is just starting. The cave is cold, but weather is picking up. Things should finish up soon, though I’m in no hurry at all.
Thanks, Ed. Your report is pretty consistent, both for Ray’s venture and Burgundy in general, to what I experienced about six months ago. I definitely loaded up on the MSD.