98’ Vieux Telegraphe- Opened about an hour before consumption, no decant but probably should have based on the small amount of sediment. Pristine dark Cherry color for rim to core, shiny and bright. The nose opens with a touch of licorice, bright cherry with a touch of raspberry. Garrigue is coming through but in really pretty waves with pepper and spice. Palate is balanced and pretty with clove, anise, cherry, raspberry, sandalwood, roasted game and bright acidity. Long finish and one of many bottles on the table and I kept going back.
For the most part I am over my S.Rhone kick as the vintages have gotten so ripe and so over the top for my palate, but this bottle on this night was phenomenal and one of the best CNP that I have ever had, great balance, acidity, fruit and drinking window. If I owned more I would drink one per month for the rest of the year, my wine of the year so far.
Tom, I was not trying to start a fight but yes I think it’s the wines, but if you ask the winemakers, they are just making what nature gave them.
I was at a tasting last Monday with the 08’ Vieux and it was showing the balance and grace that I really enjoy in CNP, that’s what made me pop the 98’. I think after a long time of chasing big hedonistic wines my palate is asking for more balance, meaning I’m leaning towards Vieux Telegraphe more so than Janasse (current vintages).
Not trying to start a fight either. Just saying that in less ripe vintages, such as 04, 06 or 08…wines that are made in a more restrained style like VT or Charvin should be to your liking.
Tom, the comment wasn’t directed at you but just in general, people get so worked up over the ‘none flavor elite’ and I was just trying to stay away from that.
I think you and I are on the same page, I love(d) Charvin but I got turned off from CNP with the 04-05 vintages. I drank my weight in 98’, 99’, 00’, 01’ of Janasse, Brunel Cailloux, V. Julienne, ect. but there seemed to be a stylistic shift after 03’, Parkers great vintage (Yes, I know the Parker influence) but many current vintages that I have been checking out just seem to ripe for my liking.
The ripeness coupled with the price increase in the past couple of years lost me as a consumer (I also have 10 cases left) for current vintages but it’s nice to try some older vintages and see how they progressed.
Yet as the prices have increased, a number of newer producers have filled the gap…it is still quite easy to find terrific CdP (and even easier, Gigondas), in a style that is not overly thick, rich or ripe, for $35-$50.
In the meantime, the '98 Vieux Telegraphe, when not corked, is outstanding…it may be an issue of a bad run of corks, but of the case I’ve drank through, almost half (a good 40%+) have been corked. The non-corked bottles have shown themselves as outstanding wines in the 95-point range, while the others have ranged from just “good” bottles (91-ish) that I strongly SUSPECTED (based on their obvious difference from the great bottles) were lightly corked, to many bottles that were “obviously corked”.
I finished my last bottle of this over a couple of nights this week, with sushi on one of the nights. The 98 Vieux Telegraphe remains a benchmark example for the estate and AOC. It’s rich, savory, beefy, sweaty and more. I’ve had this a bunch since release and can’t recall one that has disappointed. It drank well on the 2nd night too, so I don’t think its tipping over yet, although most other 98 CNDPs are on the downswing now.
The '98 VT took a long time to come around. I did not like it in it’s earlier years. The '98 vintage was hot. A lot of CdPs and other southern rhone appellations I have tried early on from the vintage showed more stewed and roasted fruit and only worsened with bottle age. I think if the structure was there and vineyards were managed properly, the wines have shown well with age (Beaucastel, Pegau, VT, VD are my favs from the vintage). YMMV.
There is sadly only one’98 VT left in my cellar. It’s probably gonna be drunk this year!
And back to the earlier banter on this thread from 2011 - Generally, the lighter VT vintages are working best for me and my tastes these days. I’ll pop a 2010 in a couple years and see how that big vintage stacks up.
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