not one of the highly-touted wines in the C-D stable, this was surprisingly one of the best Meursaults I’ve ever had–and that includes many a Perrieres. Probably partly because it had the chance to age, was from a great though often poxed vintage, and the setting was excellent–a quiet dinner in a French restaurant with my wife in Austin–the wine was near perfect. Full of creamy hazelnut butter, a little toast, hints of peach, citrus, a little smokiness, the texture and flavors were all perfectly melded to make this an absolutely spectacular wine. From the moment the bottle was opened, the bouquet and taste were fabulous, the balance of the wine impeccable. No hard edges, no flaws or Achilles’ heels, the only negative was how little wine 750 ml turned out to be that night . . .
I’ve always liked this wine. I think it gets less attention than others in the lineup partly because it’s a village wine, but also because the Perrieres and Corton Charlemagne are so thrilling and expressive that when you have the Rougeots or Puligny Enseigneres in a Coche tasting, they inevitably seem less exciting. On its own or as part of a Meursault tasting with other producers it’ll come across very differently. Of course, the Perrieres and C-C trade for multiples of the price, so there’s that.
On the other hand, it’s hard to call it that neglected when it’s a village wine that’s more expensive than a lot of Montrachets!
Funny that you mention that wine, Justin. It was that 1990 Coche Rougeot, carried back from the estate in 1992, that finally convinced me, in the early 21st century, that that what Coche produced is far better appreciated by someone else. I found them so stylized and marked by the Coche signature that I sold the rest of them…for top dollar…and gave up trying to like the Coche wines.
The descriptors that people use to describe them describe wines that are the antitheses of what I like in white Burgundy: and Alan hits most of them. As much as I respect his taste (and his insights)…I know I wouldn’t like such a wine.
Does anyone else’s WBs…other than maybe Lafon’s…ever evoke such descriptors? A serious question.
Sorry…but that mention of the 1990 was a proustian remembrance…
Stuart you certainly aren’t the only one with that opinion of Coche. I agree there’s a fingerprint on the wines. Although I think most of the tier 1 white Burg producers have a house style to them that’s fairly identifiable. Interestingly I find Coche’s Corton to have less of that “Cocheness” to them compared to his Meursaults.
Sometimes I’m in the mood for a vintage Aston Martin, sometimes I want a red Ferrari.
I certainly understand the fuss…and that it exists, Justin. I know of no wine producer, though, with as strong of a personal signature on each bottle I’ve had or read about, except maybe Zind-Humbrecht in Alsace. I am genuinely curious about who else’s signatures are as imposing in Burgundy and who, if anyone, has a similar flavor profile. As highly thought of as he is, I can’t imagine that there aren’t would-be imitators. And, the guy has a very healthy ego and seemed to adore adulation/recognition (I probably would , too), so I can’t believe he doesn’t have emulators/proteges.
Though I understand your analogy, I think the third one on your list has to be the DeLorean “time machine” from the “Back to the Future” movies…Leflaive/Sauzet/Carillon and others more aptly compare to the Aston Martin and the Ferrari…IMO.
Candidly, I am troubled when any wine is more about person and less about place.
Discussing Coche always interests me because many credible people pay the tolls and happily drive the DeLorean. Recently, I’ve wondered whether may the love for Coche’s wines and insensitivity to the 2004 red plague maybe correlate. Clearly , we are all different in what and how we taste and evaluate…genetically.
Figured I would bump this since Alan’s note was one of the first things that came up on google:
TN: 1996 Coche-Dury Meursault Les Rougeots (France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault)
1996 Coche-Dury Meursault Les Rougeots- France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault (7/11/2020)
Medium gold color was a little concerning given the previous notes. However, one taste reassured that this was typical Coche and that it was not oxidized. Typical Coche nose and flint with a very rich and buttery mouthfeel. Fruit is ripe and the finish is persistent. I’m not one to time finishes but basically I could taste it the entire drive home. Hauntingly good. Very few wines better than 96 Coche.
My favorite villages wine by far : Rougeots is power , the Batard of all villages wine . Coche sometimes holds back a few of his wines because he believes people will drink them too quickly : CC , Perrieres and… Rougeots .
I drank all my Coche 96ers , probably way too fast .
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