1996 Domaine René Engel Grands-Echezeaux- France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru (5/19/2012)
I just got home from my honeymoon, so I went 8+ days sans Burgundy… yet it was still Heaven (there was lots of Champagne after all). That said, this 1996 Rene Engel Grands Echezeaux was a welcome reminder of why I love Burgundy. Sous-bois, crisp cherries, and a velvety mouthfeel that hid an iron fist of acidity and a long long long finish. To quote George Costanza, if it was socially acceptable I’d wrap myself up in this. Man, that wine felt great on the palate, I never wanted it to end. But, after a few hours in the bottle-shaped decanter, it started slipping a bit. I’d say drink up within the next 2-4 years.
I think it’s fair to say that this is the best red wine I have ever had in my life.
And easily the best young red wine.
I had it once next to the RMP 98-pt 1996 William Deutz Rose [which is an epic wine in its own right], and it made the Deutz seem positively homely and plain and ordinary by comparison.
I have long thought that the Engel Grands-Echezaux was one of Burgundy’s GREAT wines. Clearly (at least to me) always the best in their stable and an amazing wine every time I’ve had one. The '88 this March was superb…as good as any '88 I’ve ever had. GE there was always an “iron fist” wine, as you describe. To me, it epitomized that descriptor more than any other wine I experienced. Seemingly just beautiful and soft…but…Wish I had some '96.
FWIW, I think that some of the '96s are really coming around the mountain. A '96 Chevillon “Les St. Georges” this week…was everything a good grand cru wine should be…except the label. Tons of fruit and the acidity, with food, sealing it on the palate. It was good out of the bottle, after a few hours in decanter and the next night, after being left in a corked bottle. So, it has a long life ahead, as I’d guess the GE does, too, knowing that wine.
Last year I had this wine in a flight of four 96s that included Vogue Musigny and DRC GE. Tough crowd: The Engel finished last, but it’s a bit like finishing last in an Olympic final. I actually had the Engel over the DRC, which was super complex but somewhat over-stemmy for me.
Comment j’ai pu louper ca?!
Felicitations Michel!!! Tous mes voeux de bonheur!
Many thanks for the notes, Michel. Rene Engel used to make great wines. I loved his 2001’s and was quite impressed with his GE in this vintage. Glad to read that the 96 does not suck
Congrats and best wishes. Love the Engel wines; if you ever make it out to Tokyo again, will be happy to open some from my stash. If you’ve not had his CV, it’s almost on par with the Grands and well worth a look.
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