Having followed the Northern Rhone Syrah styles thread started by Kevin Harvey (see: this thread), I found its value somewhat diminished by the hard to ignore, hush-hush-wink-wink undertone created by members afraid of posting the names of their favorite producers and/or specific bottlings, for fear of possibly reducing the available supply of Northern Rhone gold to hoard for themselves. Keeping things to yourself is a personal choice, but all of this “first rule of Fight Club” hinting around and editing after posting is annoying to observe. Thankfully, there is a yin to that selfish yang, in the form of deeply appreciated open dialog from the far less piggish amongst us.
I’m one of those that took the value of the great Northern Rhone wines for granted, when the prices were reasonable from almost every producer. In those days, no one bothered much with St.-Joseph and Cornas exploration as Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie were not yet priced out of reach. The world of wine has become a much smaller place since those halcyon days of abundant Northern Rhone Syrah for very little money. While I’m still willing to spring for a taste of Northern Rhone greatness, those bottles are mostly squirreled away and reserved for occasions befitting the lofty price tag those wines now command. Wish this weren’t the case, but such is my reality.
Demand exceeding supply creates panicky buyers, as is evidenced by all of the mums-the-word cautioning about any mention of the exceptional St.-Joseph and Cornas producers. No great mystery here, as these appellations are where the laddering down to reasonable values has moved serious wine drinkers, and is in turn driving demand and allowing for ever higher pricing. For some Berserkers, the ‘Gonon effect’ is a painful reminder of the limited nature of supply side of the equation. My awakening came with the realization that the best Herimtage and Côte-Rôtie wines had moved out of comfortable reach. Good things never remain a secret for long and the only sane response is to consider other options.
Laddering down a bit further to include VDP/IGP wines is one option. There are producers offering Rhone Valley VDP (IGP) wines that capture some of the Syrah goodness that one looks for in Northern Rhone wines. While most are not as nuanced, many are still quite enjoyable. Limiting expectations to what is reasonable for a price point is a given, as is taking advantage of the qualitative trickle down effect of better vintages. For fans on Northern Rhone wines, one place to begin turning over rocks is with the Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes offerings. While more extracted offerings complicate the selection process, the offset is lower price points work to limit the excessive use of oak.
In trying to dredge up a list of wines to kick this off, I now realize that I’ve never bothered entering a single one of these wines in to CT or taking any sort of formal notes. I buy the occasional bottle or two here and there and simply haven’t put much effort in to the process. My bad. While Syrah still seems to remain mostly unloved (in the US) relative to Pinot, Cab or even Grenache, there does seem to be some interest building. I’m hoping increased demand in the US will cause more of the good stuff imported. I’ve tasted enough solid VDP wines while in Europe to know we’re missing out on some gems. A few names to start the conversation:
Michel & Stéphane Ogier Syrah Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes La Rosine
Domaine Yves Cuilleron Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes Signe
Les Vins de Vienne (Cuilleron Gaillard Villard) Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes Heluicum
Domaine Georges Vernay Vin de Pays Fleurs de Mai
Rene Rostaing Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes Les Lézardes
Cave de Tain l’Hermitage Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes
Domaine Faury Syrah Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes
Domaine Jamet Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes
Pierre Gaillard Syrah Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes La Dernière Vigne
Domaine Jasmin Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes Chevaliere
Domaine Stephane Montez Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes
Domaine Durand Syrah
Domaine Garon Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes
Pierre Jean Villa Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes Seyssuel Esprit d’Antan
Domaine Louis Cheze Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes Saxeolum Terrus de Viennae
François Villard Syrah Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes L’Appel des Sereines
Domaine Monier Perreol Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes
Jean-Michel Gerin Syrah Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes La Champine
Charles Helfenbein Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes La Syrah.
Paul Esteve Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes
Maison Nicolas Perrin Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes
Domaine Barou Syrah Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes