A whirlwind tour from Sonoma to Napa up to Angwin. First stop was Sojourn, where Sherry, the marketing director, led us through a tasting. The 2012 pinots were all good. The Sonoma coast offering was bright and well balanced, good QPR, with some elegance but not the body of either the Roger’s or the Sangiacomo. The former was the most earthy and Young Burgundian of the offerings, with slight earth and mushroom notes and fine silky tannins. The Sangiacomo smelled of roasted strawberry and was a touch floral with similar structure. I would rate them 89, 90, 92 respectively and think they would all age very well. The home cab did not impress much. The 2011 Rutherford cab, which is predominantly GIII fruit, is supple, medium bodied and delightful. Definitely some Rutherford dust and a fine mix of red and dark fruit. 92 and fairly good QPR.
On to Altamura, where each wine was impressive. The Sav Blanc was a 2007, Oaked and aged and had slightly oxidative flavors and a profound richness that was almost like a Quarts de Chaume without the sugar. Good balancing acidity. A surprise. 92.
The 2009 Sangiovese was rich red fruit and strong, dry tannins, as good as a top line Chianti riserva but with more richness and concentration. I could see why people are excited about this. 92-93.
The 2007 Negroamaro was incredible - luscious black fruit, mushroom, cedar and smoked meat. Like a Beaucastel with more balancing acidity. Remarkable. 94.
The 2010 cabernet was excellent and, at $85, a great QPR compared to the Bond wines I tried subsequently. Mid 14’s EtOH, supple but drying tannins, layers of fruit and a touch of spice. This will need time to reach excellence. 92.
On to Martin Estate. Gorgeous place. Shown around the historic grounds and collections of medieval to civil war armor and weapons ( incredible) by Greg Martin. Aaron Potts is winemaker. This is a place to seek out as well. Their three cab-based wines - Baccchanal (92), Estate ( 92) and Reserve (93) were all similar in profile: restrained, elegant, not overly oaked, and with fresh cassis and slight licorice and chocolate notes but no sense of being overripe. Even the $50 bacchanal has excellent aging potential and the tannins are even and fine but fairly grippy across the board. These are very, very good wines and worth tasting, as was their “gold” a late harvested Sav Blanc with honeysuckle, quince and apricot notes and a slightly lighter body than a Rieussec.
Stopped at Stag’s Leap and tasted Fay, SLV and Cask 23. After prior two tastings, these were utterly unimpressive and poor QPR. The Fay and SLV were both good for 2010, but not $120 good when both Altamura and Martin easily blew it out of the water.
On to final stop of the day, at Bond, to taste that full lineup plus the new Harlan project, Promontory. Will be a middle price point between Bond and Harlan with vineyards just south of the main Harlan estate. They poured the 2008 Bonds. Much has been said of them already. They were wonderful, rich and aromatic. Surprisingly, the Quella was a runaway favorite, a tad lighter in body and more floral and cerebral in affect. Vecina a close second. Both solid 94-95 and mesmerizing, but the Promontory sample was similar to the Vecina in body, heft, concentration and aroma but with slightly more acidity. I wouldn’t mind opening a bottle of the '08 Quella and just sipping it, if I could afford it, but the Vecina, Promontory and close second Melbury, Pluribus and St. Eden all need time still. Will be interesting to see the 2011’s…
Tomorrow: Williams-Selyem, Copain, Passalacqua and Ridge…