I write lots of Sake reviews since I have a monthly newsletter. I thought I’d post them here and hopefully start some discussion. Please post your tasting notes too and feel free to ask me any questions.
Most sake is pasteurized twice, once before bottling and once after, but Namazake aren’t which typically gives them fresh, heady aromas and a slightly thicker texture. Refrigerate these and once you open them, you’ll need to drink within a day or two.
You’ll notice Kanji for Namazake 生酒 has the same first character as Kimoto 生酛 and it means living. So for Nama, it’s a live sake (unpasteurized) and for Kimoto it’s a live starter (bacteria).
One of the Sake below, the Eiko Fuji is a Namachozo which means it’s been pasteurized only once right before bottling. I included it this month so you can compare the difference between completely unpasteurized and pasteurized very lightly, only once.
Shichi Hon Yari Junmai Muroka Namazake
Pours a clear color. Nice grain on the nose but it’s subtle and relatively soft. There’s talcum, just a hint of pear juice and freshly dried hay. This is playing tricks though because it’s a blockbuster in the mouth. Incredibly thick palate with lots of pear juice. Chewy! Fleshy! There’s no way you could predict the depth of the palate from the soft nose. The finish is relatively long but clean echoing more of the grain from the nose. Enjoy this before and during dinner.
This is from one of the oldest and smallest breweries in Japan: founded in the 1540s and operated with only 4 employees. They even have antique spears from the 1500s. The rice variety is a relatively new one though, developed in the 1960s. It’s designed for Junmai type sake where the rice is the dominant character, not fruity Ginjo aromas. It’s expensive to work with because it’s not as highly bred as some other more common rice like Yamadanishiki.
Given the small production volume and high quality, this Sake is very difficult to find, even in Tokyo. Only a handful of cases came into the US and you can try it for $135 a bottle at Sushi Nakazawa in New York
Shichida Junmai Ginjo Muroka Namazake
This favorite sells out in moments every year so I bought a couple cases just for you. You’ll remember this brewery from the October offer featuring the Shichida Sake. Their website has a number of great videos if you’re interested in Sake brewing.
It pours clear with heady aromas of fresh plums. The mouthfeel is full as you’d expect but then it’s incredibly invigorating. Reminds me of a sunny winter walk. There’s a supporting acidity keeping it in perfect balance. As the fantastic palate lingers, there’s cocoa powder and earth, finishing very long with that pitch perfect acidity sitting on the back of your throat. This is a Sake for lovers of Hermitage red wines! I can likely get you a couple extra bottles of this if you want, more than just the one that’s in the offer. Let me know by Monday.
Eiko Fuji Junmai Ginjo Namachozo
Founded in 1778 this brewery is lead by the 13th generation family. It’s 50% polish and could be labeled as a Daiginjo. As I mentioned earlier, this is a namachozo, or only pasteurized once. The brewery holds this at 5 celsius until it’s ready for shipment. Once you get it, you should store it there too if possible (41F).
The nose is stunning with fleshy white peach aromas and some crisp green apple. The palate delivers the flesh and cream you’re expecting but it’s also quite clean and in balance. Often Sake like this is described as “harmonious.” There’s a hint of rice here and a touch of alcohol which isn’t the flaw it would be in wine. I recommend drinking this as an aperitif or with lighter foods such as mild cow cheeses or fresh burrata.
Akishika Okarakuchi “Super Dry” Junmai Ginjo Muroka Nama Genshu
Brewed in the mountains between Kyoto and Osaka this Sake is showcases the biodynamically grown local rice. It’s fermented to one of the driest Sake in the world. Indeed is has been labeled O-Karakuchi, Super Dry. It pours just slightly yellow from the lack of charcoal filtration. The nose is soft and elegant showing chalk and talcum with a touch of grape skin. The palate is really clean and well put together with some raw mushroom common in nama. There’s a surprising amount of juicy texture for as dry as it is. Given the rice is polished to 60% it is labeled as a Ginjo but I think of this more like a Tokubetsu.
Soma no Tengu “Forest Spirit” Junmai Ginjo Muroka Nama Genshu Usu-Nigori
This is an Usu-Nigori or light Nigori. All Sake by law is filtered but this one is just coarsely filtered to keep some of the lees in. This gives it a nice texture without the treacle of that pink bottle at conveyor belt sushi restaurants. The nose is incredibly fresh and vibrant with lots of juicy Meyer lemon. At first you might get a funky smell but that will blow off quickly. There is, however some fermented bean notes along with triple cream cheese–fascinating!. The voluptuous palate is incredibly juicy featuring salted pomelo. The palate echoes with some pulp texture but not cloying or sweet in any way. The finish lingers with the lemon returning and nicely balanced acidity. Pair with Issan Thai. This is a fresh batch and is tasting profoundly more bold than the last batch. It’s also now in 720ml instead of 500ml.
Hakurosuishu “Moon’s Mountain Dew”Junmai Ginjo Muroka Nama Genshu
Made with Dewasansan rice which is typically specific to Yamagata. It’s a relatively new variety developed to brew Sake in the cold climate of the Dewa Mountains. Similar to Omachi rice, you’ll sometimes find iron and blueberries. This pours just slightly off clear and has an incredibly huge nose you can smell from across the room like a Daiginjo twice the price. On this roller coaster we get juicy tangerine, sweet floral vanilla, crenshaw melon and even tipping toward marshmallow the sweetness of the nose is so intense. As it opens it there’s more grain and iron with some supporting wild rice on the back end. The palate is thick and sweetly textured. The finish is perfectly clean and balanced in every way.