Eating and Drinking in Paris

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Robert Dentice
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated July 2019)

#201 Post by Robert Dentice » November 20th, 2019, 12:31 pm

Andrew M wrote:
October 9th, 2019, 12:21 pm
I guess I got lucky. I filled out the contact from on Abri's website and they emailed me immediately. Confirmed a reservation for November 16th with credit card deposit. Septime replied that their reservations open 3 weeks ahead at 10 am local, so I'll be giving them a call at 4 am EDT on the 25th to get a reservation on 11/15. Online would work too. Waiting to hear back from Rigmarole.
How was Abri?
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated July 2019)

#202 Post by Andrew M » November 21st, 2019, 4:37 am

Robert Dentice wrote:
November 20th, 2019, 12:31 pm
Andrew M wrote:
October 9th, 2019, 12:21 pm
I guess I got lucky. I filled out the contact from on Abri's website and they emailed me immediately. Confirmed a reservation for November 16th with credit card deposit. Septime replied that their reservations open 3 weeks ahead at 10 am local, so I'll be giving them a call at 4 am EDT on the 25th to get a reservation on 11/15. Online would work too. Waiting to hear back from Rigmarole.
How was Abri?
One of the best meals of my life. We usually avoid blind prix fixe, but here the flavors will make you like all the ingredients you thought you didn’t. I can’t imagine spending 4-5x for a 2* or 3* meal, the cooking there is as good as it gets.
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated July 2019)

#203 Post by Robert Dentice » November 21st, 2019, 10:32 am

Andrew M wrote:
November 21st, 2019, 4:37 am
Robert Dentice wrote:
November 20th, 2019, 12:31 pm
Andrew M wrote:
October 9th, 2019, 12:21 pm
I guess I got lucky. I filled out the contact from on Abri's website and they emailed me immediately. Confirmed a reservation for November 16th with credit card deposit. Septime replied that their reservations open 3 weeks ahead at 10 am local, so I'll be giving them a call at 4 am EDT on the 25th to get a reservation on 11/15. Online would work too. Waiting to hear back from Rigmarole.
How was Abri?
One of the best meals of my life. We usually avoid blind prix fixe, but here the flavors will make you like all the ingredients you thought you didn’t. I can’t imagine spending 4-5x for a 2* or 3* meal, the cooking there is as good as it gets.
Wow! I am going to Paris next week and it is probably too late to fit in. But next time it will be a priority!
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated July 2019)

#204 Post by Robert Dentice » November 24th, 2019, 1:28 am

Stay tuned for many updates!

First stop Les Enfants du Marché:



Also found a great new coffee spot in the Marais Grand Café Tortoni. It is a coffee and cosmetics store. Weird combo but the coffee is great.

https://www.obonparis.com/en/magazine/g ... fe-tortoni
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated July 2019)

#205 Post by Robert Dentice » November 25th, 2019, 12:07 am

Dinner on Saturday at Restaurant A.T was as always fantastic.

Lunch Sunday at Clamato was good followed by the usual all day hang at Cave Septime.

And THEN dinner at Cheval d' Or was just stunningly great! Blew me away!!!! One of the best meals I have had in a long time.

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#206 Post by Robert Dentice » December 2nd, 2019, 12:37 am

Back from a week in Paris. I will try to post thoughts on all meals.

Les Enfants Du Marché - two lunches here. Fantastic as always. I would be a regular here if I lived in Paris.





La Cagouille - Admittedly I primarily went here to drink wine. The wine list was not as large as I had hoped but there is definitely lots of great choices. And the food was much better than I expected. I would definitely return.

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#207 Post by Faryan Amir-Ghassem¡ » December 2nd, 2019, 3:30 pm

hells yes
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#208 Post by Robert Dentice » December 3rd, 2019, 2:18 am

Lunch at Maison Sota. At €55 the lunch tasting menu is an absolute steal. We loved Chef Sota's food at Clown Bar and went to his NYC residency a few times. Hence, we were very excited for this lunch! And it did not disappoint. The food was excellent. And I feel like two months in he is just getting started and the food will continue to improve. Wine service was great with many of the cleaner type Natural wines I dig.

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#209 Post by Robert Dentice » December 3rd, 2019, 2:21 am

We scheduled two meals at Restaurant A.T because we had a dinner booked on our first night and then friends wanted to go later in the trip. Chef Atsushi is a dear friend so take this with a grain of salt. I love his food and both dinners were wonderful. The photos are from the 2nd dinner where he changed up about half of the menu with many first time dishes.

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#210 Post by ClarkstonMark » December 6th, 2019, 6:44 am

I've always wanted to have a meal at L'ami Jean.
In Feb on a Thursday I'll have a 6AM to 4:30PM layover at CDG.
I think I can get a noon reservation, finish meal and get back to CDG using RER in time for 4:30 flight.
Is this a stupid idea?
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#211 Post by Robert Dentice » December 6th, 2019, 7:06 am

ClarkstonMark wrote:
December 6th, 2019, 6:44 am
I've always wanted to have a meal at L'ami Jean.
In Feb on a Thursday I'll have a 6AM to 4:30PM layover at CDG.
I think I can get a noon reservation, finish meal and get back to CDG using RER in time for 4:30 flight.
Is this a stupid idea?
It is doable but feels like it is cutting it close. It can occasionally take a long time to get into CDG once you arrive. How did you end up with a 10.5 hour layover??
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#212 Post by ClarkstonMark » December 6th, 2019, 7:48 am

Robert Dentice wrote:
December 6th, 2019, 7:06 am
ClarkstonMark wrote:
December 6th, 2019, 6:44 am
I've always wanted to have a meal at L'ami Jean.
In Feb on a Thursday I'll have a 6AM to 4:30PM layover at CDG.
I think I can get a noon reservation, finish meal and get back to CDG using RER in time for 4:30 flight.
Is this a stupid idea?
It is doable but feels like it is cutting it close. It can occasionally take a long time to get into CDG once you arrive. How did you end up with a 10.5 hour layover??
Thanks! AF always has cheapest business class from where I fly .... in this case I am flying PVG-CDG, 10.5 hr layover, then CDG-YYZ (Toronto) - it is a ridiculous routing but get 2 long AF flights - though from Shanghai I will sleep most of flight.
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#213 Post by Andrew Kotowski » December 6th, 2019, 8:05 am

Robert Dentice wrote:
December 6th, 2019, 7:06 am
ClarkstonMark wrote:
December 6th, 2019, 6:44 am
I've always wanted to have a meal at L'ami Jean.
In Feb on a Thursday I'll have a 6AM to 4:30PM layover at CDG.
I think I can get a noon reservation, finish meal and get back to CDG using RER in time for 4:30 flight.
Is this a stupid idea?
It is doable but feels like it is cutting it close. It can occasionally take a long time to get into CDG once you arrive. How did you end up with a 10.5 hour layover??
Business gets you into the express immigration line on both sides, which is usually your biggest time suck. Assuming your bags stay checked and you have your boarding pass, it's totally doable.

I would not RER in; take a cab from the queue. To be certain, I always Uber, but I'd take as many variables out as possible (i.e. random Uber driver that can't figure out where the pick-up site is and then circles for 20 minutes, only to cancel). RER is definitely cheaper, but I doubt you're sweating $40 if you're flying business and hitting up a nice dinner in Paris ;)

Just make sure lunch is over by 1:30, as it's going to take at least 45 mins to get back, even at 1:30.
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#214 Post by Robert Dentice » December 6th, 2019, 8:29 am

Andrew Kotowski wrote:
December 6th, 2019, 8:05 am
Robert Dentice wrote:
December 6th, 2019, 7:06 am
ClarkstonMark wrote:
December 6th, 2019, 6:44 am
I've always wanted to have a meal at L'ami Jean.
In Feb on a Thursday I'll have a 6AM to 4:30PM layover at CDG.
I think I can get a noon reservation, finish meal and get back to CDG using RER in time for 4:30 flight.
Is this a stupid idea?
It is doable but feels like it is cutting it close. It can occasionally take a long time to get into CDG once you arrive. How did you end up with a 10.5 hour layover??
Business gets you into the express immigration line on both sides, which is usually your biggest time suck. Assuming your bags stay checked and you have your boarding pass, it's totally doable.

I would not RER in; take a cab from the queue. To be certain, I always Uber, but I'd take as many variables out as possible (i.e. random Uber driver that can't figure out where the pick-up site is and then circles for 20 minutes, only to cancel). RER is definitely cheaper, but I doubt you're sweating $40 if you're flying business and hitting up a nice dinner in Paris ;)

Just make sure lunch is over by 1:30, as it's going to take at least 45 mins to get back, even at 1:30.
I would also prebook a car to pick you up. I have had some crazy situations waiting for ubers in that very neighborhood.
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#215 Post by ClarkstonMark » December 6th, 2019, 9:57 am

Thanks for tips. Cab in and Uber out are definitely feasible.
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#216 Post by Andrew Kotowski » December 6th, 2019, 10:16 am

ClarkstonMark wrote:
December 6th, 2019, 9:57 am
Thanks for tips. Cab in and Uber out are definitely feasible.
Given 6:30 arrival, you may consider going to Le Bon Marche when it opens at 10 and pick up a couple of bottles of wine, along with some Bordier demi-sel (they should have the roscoff onion release now), before lunch, especially if you’re comfortable with the Metro... ‘cause that’s what I would do :)
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#217 Post by Michel Abood » December 6th, 2019, 11:04 am

Andrew Kotowski wrote:
December 6th, 2019, 10:16 am
ClarkstonMark wrote:
December 6th, 2019, 9:57 am
Thanks for tips. Cab in and Uber out are definitely feasible.
Given 6:30 arrival, you may consider going to Le Bon Marche when it opens at 10 and pick up a couple of bottles of wine, along with some Bordier demi-sel (they should have the roscoff onion release now), before lunch, especially if you’re comfortable with the Metro... ‘cause that’s what I would do :)
This and the Uber, preferably scheduled in advance for the pick up and return to CDG at 1:30pm. Forget the RER, especially if you don't know it well (connecting stations can sometimes mean a lot of walking between the Metro and the RER). A 4:30pm flight means you'll need to be there by 2:30pm in case of any security issues. Make sure you get to l'Ami Jean a few minutes before they open (say 11:45am just to be sure), they won't open the door until noon on the dot but at least you won't have any delays getting seated. Try to study the lunch menu beforehand and have everything planned out so you don't waste any time.

The food is outstanding, and Chef is hilarious if a bit temperamental. BTW, what Thursday in February are you there?
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#218 Post by ClarkstonMark » December 6th, 2019, 11:46 am

Thanks Andrew and Michel. I'll be there Feb 13.
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#219 Post by Kelly Walker » December 6th, 2019, 2:50 pm

La Cagouille ❤️ Razor clams in butter, I dream of them!
If you keep peeling back an onion you eventually end up with nothing.

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#220 Post by Tom G l a s g o w » December 11th, 2019, 3:47 pm

Andrew Kotowski wrote:
December 6th, 2019, 10:16 am
ClarkstonMark wrote:
December 6th, 2019, 9:57 am
Thanks for tips. Cab in and Uber out are definitely feasible.
Given 6:30 arrival, you may consider going to Le Bon Marche when it opens at 10 and pick up a couple of bottles of wine, along with some Bordier demi-sel (they should have the roscoff onion release now), before lunch, especially if you’re comfortable with the Metro... ‘cause that’s what I would do :)
How do you get the wine on the plane if your luggage is already checked?

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#221 Post by Andrew Kotowski » December 11th, 2019, 6:01 pm

Good point. Ship it?
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#222 Post by AndyK » January 5th, 2020, 5:07 pm

We just spent a couple of days in Paris, mostly following recommendations from this thread.

We arrived the first day 2 hours earlier than planned (had to change trains due to the strike), so we had time for lunch on the first day, which was not planned. We went to Caves Legrand since Willi's Wine Bar was closed that day. Food was very good, we loved the oysters and monkfish. Wine list is extensive, but prices could be better. Really impressive by-the-glass list of older stuff. We opted for a bottle of 2016 Jamet Condrieu Vernillon, which was fantastic with the food.

First dinner was at Au Passage. Pretty modern/hip and nice ambience, but it did feel a bit more like SF than Paris. We also noted that pretty much 90% of the guests were expats or tourists. Nevertheless, the food was very good, although variable. Oysters were meh, but white beans with truffles and fried oyster with potatoes were both outstanding. Wine list is nice and has a focus on natural wines. We ordered a bottle of 2017 Ganevat Julien en Billat l'Enfant Terrible du Sud and loved it.

We then went to Le Verre Vole for another bottle. The wine list is just outstanding and very well priced. I could've come back the following days just to order various bottles, but we wanted to explore other places too (i.e. my wife did...) Anyway, we had a 2011 Overnoy Arbois Pupillin and were quite happy.

On the second day, we went to lunch at Le Comptoir du Relais, which we've been to twice before on prior trips. The food never disappoints, but it also wasn't super exciting. Great wine list, though, with some interesting stuff. We went with a 2005 Ganevat Cuvee du Pepe. My #2 wine of the trip.

Dinner on the second day was at Le Bon Georges. I really liked the atmosphere and ambience (and service was great too). We got beef tartare and steak and both were very good. The wine list was very good, although mostly recent vintages. We opted for a 2014 Clape Cornas and couldn't be happier.

Post dinner drink was at Willi's Wine Bar. Surprisingly short wine list, but excellent for Northern Rhone in particular. We splurged on a 1998 Jamet Cote Rotie, which turned out to be the wine of the trip!

Unfortunately, all the eating and drinking (and hopefully not the tartare) got to us, so we had to cancel lunch at Cagouille the next day, but thankfully recovered in time for dinner at Chez L'Ami Jean. In my mind, with some margin the best food of the trip. I ordered the capon, my wife the beef. Both were outstanding (as was the appetizer). The place is very lively (the chef yells with the other cooks, waiters, guests, etc) and tightly spaced. For a date, I would prefer Le Bon Georges and Au Passage, but I liked the experience at L'Ami Jean anyway. I have to say I was slightly disappointed by the wine list (in comparison to the other restaurants). We had a 2011 Chateau des Tours Vacqueyras, which went well with both dishes.

We didn't make it to Clown Bar and La Cagouille (as mentioned above), those are at the top of my list for next time.
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#223 Post by Michel Abood » January 6th, 2020, 11:21 am

Love love love L'Ami Jean, looks like you guys had a great time. In all my trips, I have still not made it to Au Passage, I might fix that on my next stay.
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#224 Post by Andrew S. » January 6th, 2020, 1:53 pm

Les Enfants du Marché, Septime and David Toutain are three of the top places I think folks should experience right now in Paris.

Les Enfants du Marché is as good as it gets with the dishes it prepares. They have a terrific natural wine selection as well that compliments the food. Our Christmas Eve lunch was perfect there.

Toutain's menu is inspirational. I don't know how they do it. They deserve their two stars.

And Septime I don't have to tout.

L'Avant Comptoir de la Terre has gotten a little too touristy, but still great food and fun and if truffles are in season they do them right.

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#225 Post by M.Kaplan » January 6th, 2020, 2:56 pm

Did you go to Toutain after the remodel? We were there in late October, before the remodel, and agree that the cooking has improved. We didn't go in 2018, as the fall menu had become stagnant. Much improved since the last time we went (in 2017). And Thai Toutain was in fine form the evening we went.

My love for Les Enfants du Marche has eclipsed my love for the Avant Comptoirs. I ate at LEdM 10+ times in Sept-Oct and every dish was excellent. The Avant Comptoirs are close to where we stay, so I tend to stop by one of them daily. Avant Comptoir de la Mer is calmer and has stools, so I sit there. Pro tip: If you order and pay for food at de la Terre, they will bring it next door to de la Mer.

I'd like to return to Septime again, but we don't do tasting lunches and dinners have become too difficult to book. In the early days, I'd stop by and make dinner reservations, but haven't been successful since they became the hottest ticket in town.
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#226 Post by Robert Dentice » January 6th, 2020, 2:58 pm

Andrew S. wrote:
January 6th, 2020, 1:53 pm
Les Enfants du Marché, Septime and David Toutain are three of the top places I think folks should experience right now in Paris.

Les Enfants du Marché is as good as it gets with the dishes it prepares. They have a terrific natural wine selection as well that compliments the food. Our Christmas Eve lunch was perfect there.

Toutain's menu is inspirational. I don't know how they do it. They deserve their two stars.

And Septime I don't have to tout.

L'Avant Comptoir de la Terre has gotten a little too touristy, but still great food and fun and if truffles are in season they do them right.
I agree wholeheartedly on Les Enfants du Marché and of course Septime. It has been a couple of years since I have been to David Toutain. Now that Saturne is gone I will have an open lunch spot to the rotation.

Based on one meal I would add Cheval d'Or to the list.
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#227 Post by Sarah Kirschbaum » January 6th, 2020, 4:11 pm

M.Kaplan wrote:
January 6th, 2020, 2:56 pm

I'd like to return to Septime again, but we don't do tasting lunches and dinners have become too difficult to book. In the early days, I'd stop by and make dinner reservations, but haven't been successful since they became the hottest ticket in town.
Mark - why don't you do tasting lunches? I strongly prefer them to evening tasting menus. Getting older, my body feels much better with the time post lunch to digest and move around afterwards. We usually don't eat anything in the evening after a tasting lunch, or just something very light. If I do an evening tasting, they go so late that it feels like falling directly from the dining table into bed, especially in Spain, where dinner starts 9PM earliest most of the time. I don't sleep well on that much food. That's just my body, of course, but I'm curious as to why you prefer the opposite.
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#228 Post by M.Kaplan » January 6th, 2020, 5:58 pm

Sarah,
Patty doesn't eat what I consider to be lunch; she eats a pastry when we're in Paris (and has been known on occasion to indulge in riz au lait on the bench in front of Chez L'Ami Jean).

Most of the time, I'm on my own for lunch. As we've gotten older, we eat fewer tasting menus at dinner for the reasons you state. When we do, we often eat earlier than our preferred Paris 8:30/9:00 dinner hour and order the smaller menus or create our own, when that is an option. When we were younger and poorer, we almost always ate tasting menus at lunch. Also, I don't want to 'waste' more than an hour eating lunch during the day; I need to walk every possible moment in Paris in order to counteract the number of calories I consume daily there!

Our Parisian friends tend to eat their big meals at lunch and a snack at dinner, so when we are with them we do likewise.
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#229 Post by Sarah Kirschbaum » January 7th, 2020, 5:20 am

M.Kaplan wrote:
January 6th, 2020, 5:58 pm
Sarah,
Patty doesn't eat what I consider to be lunch; she eats a pastry when we're in Paris (and has been known on occasion to indulge in riz au lait on the bench in front of Chez L'Ami Jean).

Most of the time, I'm on my own for lunch. As we've gotten older, we eat fewer tasting menus at dinner for the reasons you state. When we do, we often eat earlier than our preferred Paris 8:30/9:00 dinner hour and order the smaller menus or create our own, when that is an option. When we were younger and poorer, we almost always ate tasting menus at lunch. Also, I don't want to 'waste' more than an hour eating lunch during the day; I need to walk every possible moment in Paris in order to counteract the number of calories I consume daily there!

Our Parisian friends tend to eat their big meals at lunch and a snack at dinner, so when we are with them we do likewise.
Makes good sense, Mark. You make excellent work of your Paris time, that's for sure!
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#230 Post by Andrew S. » January 7th, 2020, 5:46 pm

M.Kaplan wrote:
January 6th, 2020, 2:56 pm
Did you go to Toutain after the remodel? We were there in late October, before the remodel, and agree that the cooking has improved. We didn't go in 2018, as the fall menu had become stagnant. Much improved since the last time we went (in 2017). And Thai Toutain was in fine form the evening we went.

My love for Les Enfants du Marche has eclipsed my love for the Avant Comptoirs. I ate at LEdM 10+ times in Sept-Oct and every dish was excellent. The Avant Comptoirs are close to where we stay, so I tend to stop by one of them daily. Avant Comptoir de la Mer is calmer and has stools, so I sit there. Pro tip: If you order and pay for food at de la Terre, they will bring it next door to de la Mer.

I'd like to return to Septime again, but we don't do tasting lunches and dinners have become too difficult to book. In the early days, I'd stop by and make dinner reservations, but haven't been successful since they became the hottest ticket in town.
Hi Mark. Did Toutain remodel this year? We've gone end of May and December this year and other than a few new faces and complete change of menu, the space seemed exactly the same.

Agree on Les Enfants - it's really as good as it gets for what it serves. We had everything from fried veal brains to mackerel ceviche - all of which was superb. And their natural wine selection beats Avant Comptoir's at this point.

Comptoir de la terre has stools as well - but gets more crowded. And you can even order food in de la mer from the de la terre menu and they'll bring it over.

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#231 Post by Andrew S. » January 7th, 2020, 5:48 pm

Robert Dentice wrote:
January 6th, 2020, 2:58 pm
Andrew S. wrote:
January 6th, 2020, 1:53 pm
Les Enfants du Marché, Septime and David Toutain are three of the top places I think folks should experience right now in Paris.

Les Enfants du Marché is as good as it gets with the dishes it prepares. They have a terrific natural wine selection as well that compliments the food. Our Christmas Eve lunch was perfect there.

Toutain's menu is inspirational. I don't know how they do it. They deserve their two stars.

And Septime I don't have to tout.

L'Avant Comptoir de la Terre has gotten a little too touristy, but still great food and fun and if truffles are in season they do them right.
I agree wholeheartedly on Les Enfants du Marché and of course Septime. It has been a couple of years since I have been to David Toutain. Now that Saturne is gone I will have an open lunch spot to the rotation.

Based on one meal I would add Cheval d'Or to the list.
Yes, based on your thoughts we tried to book Cheval d'Or but could not get in! We will go in March. And Saturne was sorely missed. There was something about the atmosphere and food that really went well after a busy week on Friday evening.

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#232 Post by Barry L i p t o n » January 7th, 2020, 6:58 pm

Does Enfant du Marche have salads or other vegetarian dishes so I can get my wife to come? Doesn’t have to be much.

Also, is there a time that you can be assured of getting a seat while they still have the full menu (in May)?

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#233 Post by M.Kaplan » January 7th, 2020, 8:09 pm

Barry, the menu changes constantly/daily. There are many other food stalls in the market, some of which feature vegetarian, so she should have many choices.

Enfant du Marche opens precisely at noon and isn’t busy then.
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#234 Post by Ramon C » January 8th, 2020, 6:47 am

Barry L i p t o n wrote:
January 7th, 2020, 6:58 pm
Does Enfant du Marche have salads or other vegetarian dishes so I can get my wife to come? Doesn’t have to be much.

Also, is there a time that you can be assured of getting a seat while they still have the full menu (in May)?
Ls Enfants du Marché usually have 1 or maybe even 2 vegetable offerings the couple of times we went. I remember a delicious vegetable soup and a morrel mushrooms dish that we had.
Also as Mark said, can get other vegetarian dishes in other nearby stalls if needed.
Weekend lunches can get packed and may mean a bit of a wait (<15min) for stools to open up.
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#235 Post by Ramon C » January 8th, 2020, 6:53 am

AndyK wrote:
January 5th, 2020, 5:07 pm

We then went to Le Verre Vole for another bottle. The wine list is just outstanding and very well priced. I could've come back the following days just to order various bottles, but we wanted to explore other places too (i.e. my wife did...) Anyway, we had a 2011 Overnoy Arbois Pupillin and were quite happy.
Quite a unicorn of a wine there (assuming, this was the Houillon-Overnoy). Even in Paris, bottles by this producer are difficult to find. But, I'm aware that La Verre Vole is one of the merchants that gets allocated by the winery.
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#236 Post by Barry L i p t o n » January 8th, 2020, 2:03 pm

Thanks Mark and Ramon!

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#237 Post by T@ntina A » January 18th, 2020, 4:46 am

I was in Paris in early December, thank you for whomever first recommended Rigmarole, it was really fantastic. I love how they talk with you about things you like and what things you don't. Then they customize a tasting menu for the table. Everything was really delicious and expertly prepared. They served a piece of salmon that was just to die for. I think that particular night almost every meat came out on a skewer though... which isn't necessarily bad, but I would have wanted to have more variety.

I also went to Clown bar and was not impressed. First, I hated the atmosphere and the service was absolutely awful. The food was just ok. Not terrible but not at all memorable (I had the pigeon).

I discovered a wine bar in Le Marais called Barav - mostly locals. Great atmosphere, friendly staff. It's such a nice place to experience how accessible good wine is in France. They rotate their wine list every couple of weeks and they also have a store where you can purchase and drink at the establishment. I ended up going there twice because it was close to where I was staying (that plus transportation strikes [cry.gif] ).

I am headed back to Paris today and will report back if I discover any other great places!

As an aside I have tried getting reservations at Septime a couple of times now with no luck at all. Even my cc concierge wasn't able to help unfortunately.

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#238 Post by Robert Dentice » January 18th, 2020, 6:21 am

T@ntina A wrote:
January 18th, 2020, 4:46 am

I also went to Clown bar and was not impressed. First, I hated the atmosphere and the service was absolutely awful. The food was just ok. Not terrible but not at all memorable (I had the pigeon).
Sorry to hear this. There has been a lot of change at Clown Bar. Chef Sota left and is now running his own spot Maison Sota which I highly recommend. They have been through a few managers and the owners split up.

Glad you liked Rigmarole.

As for Septime your only hope is to stop by right before or after lunch and put your name on the waiting list which they have been know to call.

Cheval D'Or was probably our favorite new spot on our last trip. You can see photos in this thread.
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#239 Post by T@ntina A » January 20th, 2020, 12:32 am

Robert Dentice wrote:
January 18th, 2020, 6:21 am

Sorry to hear this. There has been a lot of change at Clown Bar. Chef Sota left and is now running his own spot Maison Sota which I highly recommend. They have been through a few managers and the owners split up.

Glad you liked Rigmarole.

As for Septime your only hope is to stop by right before or after lunch and put your name on the waiting list which they have been know to call.

Cheval D'Or was probably our favorite new spot on our last trip. You can see photos in this thread.
Thanks Robert for the advice. I might try that at Septime.

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#240 Post by Robert Dentice » January 23rd, 2020, 7:35 am

Nice article. I think every restaurant was mentioned here first!

https://www.eater.com/2020/1/22/2106812 ... an-cuisine
ITB - source | material

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#241 Post by G. Greenbaum » January 23rd, 2020, 8:31 am

T@ntina A wrote:
January 18th, 2020, 4:46 am
I was in Paris in early December, thank you for whomever first recommended Rigmarole, it was really fantastic. I love how they talk with you about things you like and what things you don't. Then they customize a tasting menu for the table. Everything was really delicious and expertly prepared. They served a piece of salmon that was just to die for. I think that particular night almost every meat came out on a skewer though... which isn't necessarily bad, but I would have wanted to have more variety.
Happy to hear you had a memorable time. They specialize in yakitori using binchotan coals, so the skewers make a regular appearance.
Regards,
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#242 Post by M.Kaplan » January 23rd, 2020, 5:50 pm

I’m a big fan of Le Rigmarole. The best thing I ate the last time we went was grilled ventresca, which wasn’t cooked or served on skewers. Eating at the counter has the added advantage of talking with chef about what to eat next.
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#243 Post by Michel Abood » January 24th, 2020, 5:14 am

Robert Dentice wrote:
January 23rd, 2020, 7:35 am
Nice article. I think every restaurant was mentioned here first!

https://www.eater.com/2020/1/22/2106812 ... an-cuisine
Perfect timing, something to read on the plane to Paris tonight.
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#244 Post by Robert Dentice » January 24th, 2020, 7:12 am

Michel Abood wrote:
January 24th, 2020, 5:14 am
Robert Dentice wrote:
January 23rd, 2020, 7:35 am
Nice article. I think every restaurant was mentioned here first!

https://www.eater.com/2020/1/22/2106812 ... an-cuisine
Perfect timing, something to read on the plane to Paris tonight.
We really enjoyed our meal at Cheval d'Or.
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#245 Post by Andrew Kotowski » January 24th, 2020, 7:27 am

Killing me that they gave CAM a shout-out; it’s my backup for Sunday if I don’t get the Rigamorle waiting list call. Love CAM, and the Smiths Sundays were the only time we cheated on Sunday family dinner... was just great to go somewhere that didn’t feel like Paris.
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#246 Post by IlkkaL » January 24th, 2020, 7:51 am

Ramon C wrote:
January 8th, 2020, 6:53 am
AndyK wrote:
January 5th, 2020, 5:07 pm

We then went to Le Verre Vole for another bottle. The wine list is just outstanding and very well priced. I could've come back the following days just to order various bottles, but we wanted to explore other places too (i.e. my wife did...) Anyway, we had a 2011 Overnoy Arbois Pupillin and were quite happy.
Quite a unicorn of a wine there (assuming, this was the Houillon-Overnoy). Even in Paris, bottles by this producer are difficult to find. But, I'm aware that La Verre Vole is one of the merchants that gets allocated by the winery.
Indeed one comes across more and more bottles from Domaine Overnoy which is obviously something very different. Personally I've never seen bottles from Houillon-Overnoy for sale anywhere at retail and very rarely on restaurant wine lists but on the other hand I've seen lots and lots of empty bottles as decoration pieces and hipsterish restaurants and bars.
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#247 Post by AndyK » January 24th, 2020, 8:19 am

FWIW it was the Houillon-Overnoy. I'm aware of the difference and how rare of a find it was.
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#248 Post by Michel Abood » January 25th, 2020, 7:41 am

Andrew Kotowski wrote:
January 24th, 2020, 7:27 am
Killing me that they gave CAM a shout-out; it’s my backup for Sunday if I don’t get the Rigamorle waiting list call. Love CAM, and the Smiths Sundays were the only time we cheated on Sunday family dinner... was just great to go somewhere that didn’t feel like Paris.
I know, right? I am probably taking one of my customers there for a Sunday night dinner while here. But first, Champagne at Ma Cave Fleury around the corner. Kill 2 birds with one stone.
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#249 Post by Michel Abood » January 25th, 2020, 7:45 am

Robert Dentice wrote:
January 24th, 2020, 7:12 am
Michel Abood wrote:
January 24th, 2020, 5:14 am
Robert Dentice wrote:
January 23rd, 2020, 7:35 am
Nice article. I think every restaurant was mentioned here first!

https://www.eater.com/2020/1/22/2106812 ... an-cuisine
Perfect timing, something to read on the plane to Paris tonight.
We really enjoyed our meal at Cheval d'Or.
I'll try to make it there, it's a busy schedule though I am here 3 weeks.
Guess what? I'm ITB-> Vinotas Selections

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris

#250 Post by Michel Abood » January 26th, 2020, 1:07 am

First night in Paris was dinner with business associates at Bistrot Paul Bert. It was as usual packed with both locals and tourists, and firing on all cylinders. We discussed how despite being a tourist destination the food and service had remained delicious over the years, and my Gigot d'Agneau, shared with a friend, was possibly the best one I've had in a while. The carrots were unbelievably bright and sweet, too, which for me, as a carnivore, is saying a lot (though I also recently had killer pickled carrots at Arzu, an Uzbek place in deep Queens, last week, so maybe I'm on a carrot kick?).

00100lrPORTRAIT_00100_BURST20200125205036623_COVER.jpg
00100lrPORTRAIT_00100_BURST20200125211953152_COVER.jpg
IMG_20200125_212940.jpg
IMG_20200125_222739.jpg

OK, off to catch the TGV to Montpellier, I'll grab a delicious fresh sandwich at Maison Landemaine on Rue des Martyrs for the 3 hour trip.
Cheers! [cheers.gif]
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