Recent New Orleans Eats

I’ve been traveling regularly to NOLA over the last couple months on business, and have gotten out to sample some good spots around town. Note that I’ve been previously to many of the old standards–Galatoire’s, Commander’s, Lilette, August, etc.–so I skipped them this time around. Here are some quick-hit impressions. All meals solo at the bar:

Shaya: Awesome - one of the more thrilling meals in recent memory. This has everything I look for in a restaurant. Interesting, unique, chef-driven food that’s hyper-delicious; a relaxed setting; friendly service; and a solid (if unspectacular) beverage program. The kibbeh naya (Israeli beef and lamb tartar with a butter pancake) was maybe the best thing I’ve had all year. The hummus and fresh pita were great, and the lamb shank with yogurt and grapefruit was near-perfect, although massive. A total winner. I can’t wait to return and eat through more of the menu. Solid A

Peche: I’d be a regular if this were in Houston (and honestly, it should be). Super-fresh, gulf fish in an unpretentious setting. Aggressive flavoring and textures, but with light sauces and broths. Hard not to love, although the location and setting isn’t quite as charming as some NOLA spots. A-

Herbsaint: It’s becoming an old standard, I suppose, but I’d not been previously. Mostly-well executed meal in a lovely setting, but far from life-altering. The Gumbo was proper and delicious, and a main of chicken in etouffe was decadent comfort food, if a touch overcooked. I imagine everything is tasty, but not spectacular enough for me to sprint back. Clearly a great, charming date spot. B+

Compere Lapin: Awesome cocktails and super friendly service. Tasty food and the kitchen seems to be firing on all cylinders, although I didn’t find the concept quite as intriguing as I expected or as advertised. Caveat is that I only had lunch, so perhaps this is better for dinner. B / B+

R’evolution: Disappointing. Had the Death by Gumbo and Veal Chop. The Death By Gumbo is a brilliant and impressive-looking concept (roasted quail stuffed with rice and sausage in gumbo roux), but the actual soup couldn’t touch the delicious, lighter gumbo at Herbsaint. The Veal Chop was Flintstones-sized, and objectively tasty, but steakhouse-generic – not something I’m looking for in New Orleans. The whole feel was “high-end steakhouse,” so while the execution was good and the food tasty, this was not a singular experience, and not one where I’d rush back. B-

Ryan- great reviews. R’evolution, for whatever reason just rubs me the wrong way. Have you checked out Coquette previously?

The late Chris Kerageorgiou was doing the stuffed quail gumbo 40years ago at his restaurant La Provence.

The New Orleans dining scene is better than it’s ever been. What a great time to be alive!

I agree with your review of R’evolution. In a city where I’m always struggling to fit in another meal, I was sad I wasted one there.

I don’t get the Shaya praise though and it’s very national praise too. It seems really basic and not that interesting. The techniques there just seem more driven by being able to fit dietary restrictions such as gluten free or meat preferences than toward great cuisine.

Admittedly, I left after appetizers and didn’t’ order an entrée but still.

I haven’t been to Coquette but it’s at the top of my list for next time.

Thanks for the recommendations!

I live in Louisiana, and sadly must confess that I have not been down there since pre-Katrina.

I always made it a point to go eat at Coop’s. It’s a bar/restaurant and is by no means a fancy joint. The sampler of fried chicken wing, seafood gumbo, jackrabbit jambalaya, etc, was inexpensive (~$13) and delicious! Plus, I could get a 4oz pour of Green Chartreuse for $4. I doubt that the prices are as low now, but I cherish the memories of the place.

Coop’s is one of the few places that hasn’t changed a bit. It’ll bring back all the good memories for you. Swank cocktail bar next door now though, Cane and Table.

FWIW, a chef I know who works at Peche recommended Kin.

k.

Kin was great- really great - until they went from just serving ramen at lunch to going full-time ramen. My understanding is they’re looking for a larger location to support an expanded menu, but for now, ramen.

I haven’t been to Shaya for dinner yet; brunch a number of times and it’s always been good. But I side with those who don’t get the hype. It ain’t THAT good.

Coquette, for me, is still the best restaurant in town. I really will never understand why this place doesn’t get a bigger following. Constantly rotating five course tasting menu, every time I’ve done it it’s been quite inventive and extremely well executed. It’s almost never five courses either. Almost always a nice amouse and one or two extras thrown in. Service is quietly top notch.

Ah, New Orleans. The best place IMO to eat and drink all day! So many good eats at all price levels day and night. Definitely my kind of town.

I am in New Orleans right now. Had an absolutely delicious lunch at Shaya today!

Nawlins native- get home often… My family as well as myself adore Shaya and Peche on the list. Not on the list, my local favorites, in similar class, are Sylvain, Coquette (mentioned above) and for breakfast Surreys. Of course there are SO MANY more to enjoy as well!
Enjoy the Big Easy Sherri.

Thanks! Fortunately, I will be here often over the next 4 years (as the reason I am down here is for my daughter’s college orientation).

Jason- have you been to Brennan’s since the renovation and change in the kitchen ?

We’re in town this weekend and going to Herbsaint and probably Brennans though i might switch Brennans to lunch/breakfast if I can work the schedule.

We had some good meals at Coquette but haven’t been in the past few trips. Have you tried Angeline ? Had some good meals there last year but sure do miss Stella !

cheers
Fred

I’ve only been once once since it reopened and it was awhile back. The place is stunningly beautiful. We had two major issues with our experience. Be sure to tell your server at what pace you wish to proceed. The soup bowls were barely off of the table when the entrees arrived. The food was good but the serving temperatures were luke warm. And if you are going to order a bottle of white wine, there is a good chance that it will be at cellar temperature and need to be chilled further. All of that said, it is worth going.

Coop’s Place is arguably the best fried chicken I can remember! Love that spot!


Cheers!
Marshall

I’ve been only for brunch, and the food was well executed, traditional New Orleans-style brunch food. Service was attentive, though it was obvious the multiple servers handling our table were not coordinating their efforts.

I agree with Michael, both in the beauty of the rehabbed restaurant, as well as informing your server of the pace. Though, that’s sadly true for too many New Orleans restaurants.

By the way I wanted to clarify my comments on Kin. Whereas before they were predominantly ramen-style for lunch, but with a full menu for dinner, for dinner they have done away with large plates and placed greater emphasis on ramen. But they’ve retained the small plates.

As I mentioned before this place is great and really doing some inventive stuff for New Orleans - I highly recommend it. Also, it’s BYOB.

Quick update so far

Fiorella’s on Franklin Ave- needed a place in Gentilly for a quick lunch. Solid po boy’s and great fried chicken. Family had a place for years in the qtr and now kids have opened up in Gentilly

Brennans- good to very good. Not sure I’d run back for dinner but will be back for breakfast/lunch. Top dishes were very good- BBQ Lobster, Tea brined chicken, gumbo and of course Banana’s Foster. Service was excellent and solid and fairly priced bourbon list. Check out the bar if you come.

Quick lunch today at Toups Meatery. Wow ! Outstanding. It’s a nod toward Sw La so could be classified closer to cajun than modern creole. Boudin Balls were excellent and the Seafood Couvillion was one of the best dishes I’ve had all year.

Herbsaint for dinner tonight…

Cheers
Fred